The music is a bit brutal in this one at times. It’s not always easy to find decent copyright free music. I was going for 70s vibe in this one 😂 hope you enjoy it. Thanks for watching!! ✊
It was a bit cheesy but I had cauliflour cheese for supper so it felt right. I'm more interested in Mahi's progress anyway and generally your vids are highly entertaining so don't worry about it.
Greet work! as a naval architect i would recommend putting a few screws into the windows. If you ever hit a big storm those are the first to go. especially salt water will weaken those 3M tapes over time.
Fun fact: that tape is also humidity dependent. I live in a desert with single digit humidity, and there is almost no tape that will stay stuck to something here for long. Even indoors, things like command strips, 3m VHB tape, etc just falls off the wall trying to hold up something super light weight.
Am sure you know that the windows need stronger fittings Mark...Salt water and heat will break the seal quite quickly, if you are planning on Sailing Oceans, you will need Commercial Grade ,the windows, are excellent ,but good rubber and many bolts are excellent.
Well. 3 things. 1st: Those windows will never survive uv exposure with two sided tape. You will lose windows in a stormy sail. 2: Being lazy here means you will regret not having windows you can open for ventilation when it is hot. 3: If you don't build a day shelter/cockpit on the beams to the rear, you will regret not having fun, livable space to hang out with visitors. Take this advice from an old man.
There are multiple versions of VHB all with unique characteristics and applications. Maybe there is a marine application version - I hope Mark contacted 3M online to verify the application/correct type.
Thoser windows :-) Mark living up to his rep as the bodger king....I would't even trust that in my garden shed, never mind blue water sailing. This channel just keeps on giving.
Mark, I have used that tape for years, I love it BUT, I used it to place my daughter's 8" each name letters on her bedroom wall, 4 of the 7 have stayed up for 5 years, 2 have been replaced twice and 2 have been replaced more, it's random, and summer when they fall off, yet no sun gets in her room, so pot luck on that, I would recommend doing something to secure your windows, that's a big hole should they fail and fail they will, you just don't want that to be in a storm at sea when they fall off!!
Those windows will give you most certainly something to think about when you are behind the rudder, with some heavy seas, howling winds and breaching waves. If not now then after a couple of years when everything aged. You are basically relying on tape adhered to a thin layer of paint. Now that is brutal 😃
@@pete9501 He didnt glue them, he used sticky tape. And that thin bead of polymax (not suited for marine purposes btw) doesnt do a thing, besides a little sealing. Furthermore, for example in the roaring forties, with over 10m (35ft) of crashing waves bashing your boat, there arent many cars around and probably for a reason. Now I dont say he creates a submarine cat, i only say this construction gives you something to think about when you experience very harsh conditions. Its not always gonna be blue water cruising with hot bikini babes and cocktails. (unfortunately)
@@pete9501Its a great product but you're pushing its limits. 5 years in a tropical climate will take its toll. Most importantly the substrate it is adhering to will be the weakest link. Does that bond have any quantifiable adhesion data? The wood was slightly moist when painted over.
Mark..you can buy ready made boat windows from £45 each 💰🙏...... you'll need stronger secure windows with ventilation if your going to travel seas, oceans to hot climates. You'll need opening windows 🥵🙏
Mark... those windows will never last the way you/ve attached them to the boat. Maybe a frame - surround would help. But double-sided tape and a bead of caulk just won't be strong enough to hold over time and weather.
yep it's not a car away from salt water and spray. that was one part of my jobs when i worked in a boat factory, first thing i would have used tinted plexi and just used clear silicon with some small screws and NO 90 degree corners everything had rounded corners, that's how we did it...
Mark, I think you have made a great purchase with this boat and she should be able to fulfil your dreams if properly repaired and outfitted. Through hulls, windows and hatches are always vulnerable on a boat especially in heavy seas. For your and any passenger safety I would urge you to re- consider your window solution. Maybe fine for fair weather but need to be prepared for the worst. Best of luck.Great channel!
I agree, this tape is subject not only to UV but to moisture issues. If this method worked boat manufacturers would go with this approach. Ports need to be bedded and secured with fasteners. (3M 4200 our Butly tape, which is not really tape ,but an adhesive caulk would be a good option) On the plus side the aperatures are relatively small.
i, i, second "the manufacturers would do it" comment. Makes sense to follow the industry standard. You can build a jig around the windows, have the screw holes in place. And start drilling away. Then go over with a countersink, silicone around screw head, rubber gasket... G'luck.
Mark I have used the 3m tape many times and will tell you that it will end up lifting in spots in a year or two, it may be fine for a short fix or a boat that is forever going to be a coastal vessel, but to sail across the Atlantic with glued windows should be something you reconsider before doing so. Another way to put it it, is are you willing to risk your life in the Atlantic on just glue! On a positive note its great to see the progress you have made so far with this lady.
Good to hear a comment from someone with some experience. So it lifted in a few places, and I guess leaked…not good. But did it fail completely, and if not how easy was it to remove. I think he has made a mistake in not having a good margin for a wide sealant / adhesive such as Sikafkex 295…that’s my I intention.
I hope the window seal holds up, but Andy is a cold-weather, fresthwater, Canadian boater, not a tropical sailor. I would've probably gone with old school butyl tape around the perimeter, then through bolted them and capped the bolts on the inside with "acorn nuts"(US term). That way they can be removed with ease and/or tightened as needed to eliminate leaks. A lot more like a bolt-on porthole, rather than an inset version that causes the rot you had to deal with. "Streamline" looks cool, but is mostly a PITA to repair/replace. Cheers from FL!
From a dutch boatnut living in the Canadian mountains, Don't worry about the Music! worry about the the Windows leaking !!! I would also agree with adding some screws and making your outside caulking edge wider and more sloped! then Also do the Inside to give it more strength and to keep the gunk out of that little channel you have there now, (it will fill up with dirt and such in no time before you'll get it in the water!) Other then that keep up the good work and keep smiling!!!! Ed
I've been in the plastic industry for 42 years, we did hundreds of boat's using double sided adhesive, polycarbonate is unbreakable however it will deteriorate in time , but never had a complaint or failure using this method 👍👍👍
I used the 3M tape to replace all the windows on my yacht over 4 years ago. They were over a curved fiberglass surface and there has been absolutely no movement or lifting. Looking at your flat base I can see absolutely no concern over possible failure. The best thing is there are no screw holes which are are the source of stress cracking and failure.
The 'bashing strip' is actually a rubbing strake. Traditionally made of a hardwood such as teak and often covered in a corrosion-resistant metal. They are regarded as sacrificial to protect the hull so should be fitted so that they are easy to replace.
I had same issue with west system epoxy pumps when they get old. If you buy yourself a cheep set of digital scales and mix it through weight, you will find a perfect mix every time. Hope this helps
I was going to say the same thing. Just have a resin dedicated cup and a hardener dedicated cup, and pour those into a mixing cup. That way if you hit an air pocket, you can pour it back in the can and start over. Or get a cheap scale and mix by weight, which is probably not at a 5:1 ratio since the resin and hardener have different densities. I bought a scale for about $10 that works fine. It's especially helpful for small jobs where you just need 20 grams of resin, which you will be doing a lot of after you finish the refurbishment.
Silvia is a star!!! the secret to spray paint is to do the first coat really light, just enought to make it a bit sticky, wait 15 minutes and go for second coat, but remember first coat light! By the way windows are awesome!!!! you can always add a woodden frame later on
Looking at the comments about the window adhesion. I agree, two things, silicone allows water to creep under it, and with the boat cabin flexing in cold weather I can not see that tape holding up. Recessing them so that the window was level with the cabin exterior would have helped, but the only sure way will be to use scewed wooden strips with a rubber compression ring underneath.
I agree with almost all the comments below never skimp on Windows Engine and drive train and steering and sails it looks great but you have to be set up for the very worst nature can throw at you Rock on Young man.
Rubbing strakes is the term that you are looking for. I also agree about the fixings on the windows but I would add that drilling oversized holes, sealing and bolting through is the way to go. Slightly worried about the lack of ventilation without opening ports. A great project but the proof will be in the sailing!
Free Range Sailing did a massive rest including their windows about 2 years ago. Might want to see the way they did theirs. I really like Andy at Boat Works Today. Free Range Sailing had more info and lots of details, very comprehensive. I'm using their techniques for my refit. Cheers, S/V Cork~Texas 🇺🇸 ⛵
Mark, I never told you how it amazes me that you can get ANY work done at all and film at the same time. That would drive me nuts if I weren't already! I can only manage to film some after the facts walk throughs and talk throughs etc. IDK how you manage!
Mark this boat is going to look really cool when it’s finished. The more I see of it the more I like the shape and can see how it’s going to be like a Land Rover for the sea!
Agreed, your videos are wonderful. Please keep up the great work. The boat is really starting to come together. Thank goodness for good friends. I be looking forward to seeing what you’re thinking about for a pilot house/navigation station. Cheers!
18:34 When air is trapped in the pump you can get these going again by pressing them down and sealing the tip with your finger when releasing for the up stroke. Repeat a few times, then the pump should fill with liquid again.
Awesome video, honestly the most enjoyable bits are the "mistakes," running out of stuff and other various real life nonsense that crops up. Keeps it feeling grounded. Keep up the great work!
The windows look good, the job will get you out there quicker. Watch out for cracking and degradation of the tape through UV exposure over time as all the materials will expand and contract at differing amounts each day. Have a couple of window plugs ready made if the worse happens at sea. Onwards you March Well done!
I have used this same method - VHB Tape, and silicone sealant (specifically DowSil 795) - and am very happy with the results. And Yes, Andy is an Excellent source for info.
i watch a few boat channels and this is by far my favorite channel i cant wait to see the boaton open sea even if it takes a while its will he a fun journey to watch
The windows are a perfect moral booster solution to get you by while you finish the rest . to fix that rot properly will probably be the last major fix before your Blue Water Sailing . Its liveable now ! Congatulations .
I also agree, you need some fixings on the windows, a heavy sea will rip them off, I remember a customer blew in a port hole(fish eye type) by throwing the helm over on a Sunseeker with bow thruster on. Better safe than sorry.
A good tip when using tins of spray paint submerge it in hot water for 5 minutes before you start spraying. you'll find it sprays much more evenly and you'll leave nothing left in the tin!
Awesome mate, the music is 😎 cool, 70's can go a little " Gorge and Mildred " but still better than most RU-vid music, boat is looking good, coming along well.
Good progress! Two things: I agree with the chorus that the tape isn't a long term permanent bond. It will lift in a year. I'd make some hardwood clips and screw/epoxy them on. Or get ss clips, but it's easier to seal up wood IMO. Make a batch of 1" wide hardwood clips, screw and epoxy them, then seal up the screw heads with plugs in epoxy and coat and paint. Nothing to leak, windows stay in place. Regarding the epoxy pumps, I hate those things. Just get a gram scale and use that. Very easy and fast and accurate. West System says 5:1 by volume is also 5:1 by weight.
rub strip or rub rail ...Mark......looking good.......if you are going to do fiber glass work on the cabin tops, you might think about adding a drip edge above the windows to shed cabin top runoff....every little change makes Mahi more wonderful...cheers
Great episode Mark and tons of progress. Like others have commented, the windows seem to be a good temporary solution for coastal cruising. The tape is great but the bond is only as good as the paint adhesion to the deck/cabin sides. If going off-shore, might be good to have a one piece S.S. full frame for each window screwed on to spread the clamping pressure more evenly. This way the windows won't be ripped off in a heavy weather storm and there will be a gradual warning if starting to go...leaking before total failure. At a minimum have a couple frames made and cut to size with drill holes for mounting, plus a box of stainless screws and a few additional window panels as spares just in case one or two let go unexpectedly.
agreed it would be easy to custom cut some flanges on the plasma table and make proper port sills, to which windows can be mounted as openable or sealable.
As a 20 year live aboard yachtie who refitted his own boat i suggest those windows the way they are fitted are about as useful as a back door in a canoe when you hit 20 mtr breaking seas in the Atlantic or wherever. I was also a merchant seaman for 40 years and saw the power of seas as they bent cranes and ripped containers off ships. Best of luck with that bodgy fit. Youll need it.
You might consider adding a "tunnel" below the deck, forward of the motor mounts. Then have hatches to access the motors. This also can allow you to "crawl" between hulls without going outside during bad weather. If planned well, you can get a bit of long storage across beam. And you can use it for electrical conduit that is easier to service. In any case, good luck.
Lots of commenters on here don't know anything about VHB tape. I just had to remove some really old vhb tape & it was not easy. It's used to attach windows on high rise buildings! I've got "portvisors" attached with 1/8" vhb tape on 4 ports. I kick and bump them accidentally all the time. I'll break one before that tape fails. Ignore anyone who says to put screws through the windows. That will cause them to crack and fail. I had to replace both of my fixed ports for that reason.
