Board provided by BIGTREETECH: biqu.equipment... You will find my Klipper configs and STLs: github.com/ire... PCB Spacer: github.com/har... Instagram: / hobbyist_notes Thank you for watching, welcome to comment section!
Unfortunately I don't have Fysetec Spider v.2.2 board to even try it 🤷♂I see this Spider has CAN extension port but I would recommend buying cheap CAN module for RPI and running it directly on raspberry Pi.
If we are talking about SB2040, I have followed this guide and connected klicky to one of the endstops: github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/blob/master/EBB%20SB2240_2209%20CAN/Build%20Guide/EBB%20SB2240%202209%20CAN%20v1.0%20Build%20Guide.pdf
@@hobbyistnotes Yes, And with this BTT SB2240 you haven't got into troubles so far? Maybe 1 mounth is too short to conclude. Was it hard to install the firmware? Any troubles ? Thanks
@@Levisgil47 I had little issue with X-switch and Kicky connectors, I assume due to thermal expansion, but after extra crimp-push with a tool the issue went away.
Hello. You aren't the first person who mentioned this and the main reason why I have it this way is that I care more about Z-Axis deformation other than Y or X.
If be honest I have been working on the video about those backers and in my case results are very inconclusive. I have tried to install them all over the place at the end got feeling that this mod was huge waste of time and resources as my printer is already pretty squared and improvement are very tiny and aren't worth the money/time I have spent.
@Hobbyist Notes I've tried it both ways and ended up on top how you have it. It even has the taped holes for the cable chain that way, although not relevant on your umbilical install. At 90° to the rail, it would have a tremendous amount of rigidity if held tight enough to the extrusion.
@@bobwtech Tapped cable chain holes was one of the main reason why I firstly installed it on top than people started to mention it have to be behind linear rail and so I have tried it this way too and didn't had much of a change, so I have moved it back on top to cover leftover spring nuts cus it's hard to remove those.
I have this kit on the way. It's a shame they went with those tiny picoblade style connectors that are going to be difficult to put in and out. I have two hotends that I swap from time to time, so this will be a pain. I think I might make some flying JST-XH socket leads for the heater and thermistor to get around that issue.
I had conversation with BTT and explained this connectors frustration after which I guess they start to include crimped wires so you can just solder new wires and use it. Also they messaged me after the video that soon they will have an extra version of this board with bigger connectors as an option. But all frustration aside board works perfectly fine for me.
Yes CAN toolhead boards usually have own driver on them so you don't need to use extra driver from the main board. In my case I have separate wires going to the toolhead to get extruder motor working from main board driver as I am printing a lot of ABS with bed temp ~ 110(C) and ~50(C) inside of the printer. I bet toolhead driver can handle this but it's still it's just an extra security for me.
@@hobbyistnotes that makes total sense and is the direction I want to go when I get that far. It seems illogical to have the driver baking in a hot chamber while making heat of it's own.
I had only few small issues related to connectors which were easy to solve. Since installation printed a lot of PLA bins for Gridfinity project/video (at least 3-4 days straight) and few 5h ABS parts with ~45-50C chamber temp. I am not using built-in driver and have separate wires just for the motor also with 40W e3D heating cartridge and all the other parts of the toolhead accept LEDs are working on initial 24v input I can assume my setup will be less prone to undervolting as almost no voltage conversion happening on the board. Working on the upgrades to get a bit more flow on this printer with Dragon HF and 50W heater may be will crimp the motor to see how board will behave with such setup.
Could you please share more details regarding the source of the information you referring to, so I could see what setups people have problems with and may be try to replicate it.
I think it's highly over-engineered tho still a very nice product. Wish those small connectors wouldn't be so painful to work with as I personally spent more time on them than on actual installation and configuration.
@@grathado28 My problem with those premade wires/products is that you use it once and they stick around making an extra mess, this is something that I have to consider as I have very limited space.
