So...Chris....you keep talking about why its important to go over hook up even though you've done it before. That was the part of this video most important to me. When I realized they had changed the hook ups (removing the fan screw in), I was like...wth? Opened the instructions which referred to one hook up as hb, which I had no idea what that meant and they didn't define it. I hooked it up, thinking maybe it meant heated bed, but I wasn't sure. Your video helped me VERY much by confirming where that fan went and what needed to be in the screw down plugs. Also, I had all my fans hooked up in the wrong place. LOL Thanks for taking the time to go over hook up again. That is what I needed to see. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Man, I am so glad you are so passionate about helping out the community. If it was for you, I'd probably would have given up. Thank you so much, and keep up the great work!
Appreciate the installation guide. I just went to install mine and was scratching my head trying to figure out how to connect the hot end fan. I just assumed I would be able to plug and play. This video cleared things up.
Thanks so much for the in-depth instructions. I've had my printer for 2 months now so I' new to this. I added this upgrade and the difference in the sound is amazing. Can't wait to learn more uses for it.
Great video as always Chris! I just got this board to replace the v2.0 (my USB port broke off). I had some pre-wired JSTs that I could solder to the fan wires, and discovered that there are two standards for polarity with JSTs. There is the original RC standard which is opposite to this board, and there is also, for lack of a better word, Arduino standard, which is correct. Just wanted to mention for folks that get pre-wired JST plugs.
Nice review! The difference MCU chips make us hesitate to swap from E2, hope it will soon official supported by Klippers. BTT have awesome quality, we used around 1300pcs on Voron 0.1 Kit abs no any issues so far.
@@Apophis-en9pi I think 60% of our sells already to the final users but they may have chance to assemble it; still a lot on the way to distributors; global shipping is mess now.
Just ordered mine after shorting my 1.2 when brushing of my nozzle 😉 Damn those naked cables on the heater... 😉 Thanks for the video, it really helps with the initial setup! 😁 Please continue making these even if its just a new version with some minor improvements 😊
Done the same thing on two different printers and boards. Connect a fuse on one of the cables. This way you should have no problems with blown boards. If you're lucky it´s only the heater circuit and/or thermistor circuit that´s blown, but the rest can work. Using klipper you can add the board as a auxiliary board, to run more steppers, more controlled fans, etc, etc.
Loving the vids! Nice pace, well done documentation, easy to understand lingo, and overall just a good approach on giving out information to the masses!! Long time viewer, so keep up the good work as you always seem to do. And be well!!
Appreciate you. I was struggling to find a good video with someone showing the entire process. I just got an Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago as a cheap intro to 3d printing. It works great, it's just way too loud to be sitting 5ft away. With some fan upgrades, the new SKR mini and a couple other things hopefully we can get it down to a more manageable level.
I have moved way past the Ender series printers, but still have my very first old original Ender 3 standard. I recently upgraded it with this board and the CR Touch! It has many other upgrades, and still prints very well! I have two Anycubic Kobra 2 V2 that prints at 150 mm/sc. These print in a fraction and came with runout, power resume, auto mesh leveling, and direct drive extruder, all for $200.00.
Thank you for all the information, by Ender 3 pro board died yesterday and I got the BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 and had trouble finding all the info I needed to fit it, you filled in all the holes without taking forever to get there. Thanks, I have subscribed to keep up with all the changes
Didn't plan on an upgrade, but my new Sprite all-metal hot end has a bltouch connector that won't fit into the BTT SKR Mini E3 v2 (it has a port for it, but it has a form-factor for a three-pin and a two-pin connector, instead of a straight-5 pin connector). Great video for covering everything I needed!
Great Video Chris, a breath of fresh air as per. I got all the steps right in my installation except for the part cooling fan. It just doesn't work I've tried a lot to say the least. I do know for sure that the fan itself is working and I'm dealing with a firmware issue. The latest version of marlin I've tried is bugfix2.1
I was beginning to think so myself until I compared the pinout on the V3 board Vs those published on their site and the firmware. Turns out on the pin diagrams, the pins are listed as : HB - PC6 E0 - PC9 Fan2 - PB15 Fan0 - PC7 Fan1 - PC0 Whereas the firmware defines them as #define HEATER_0_PIN PC8 // "HE" #define HEATER_BED_PIN PC9 // "HB" #define FAN_PIN PC6 // "FAN0" #define FAN1_PIN PC7 // "FAN1" #define FAN2_PIN PB15 // "FAN2"
video is awesome and I got everything together, my only issue is that when I turn my printer on the screen lights up, but nothing else shows up, I turned off my printer in fear of something being wrong but I'm unsure of what to do about it.
Thank you for this video. As a person new to your channel, and new to replacing main boards, I'm glad that you took the time to explain the details, like using ferrules, the need to add a JST for the parts fan, typically fan 0 is for parts cooling, etc. Remember, nothing is old to us new guys! Again, thank you for taking the time to mention all of the little details which helps when researching board swaps. I am just a little confused about "no firmware" available. You say that they offer stock .BIN files on their GITHUB site, but I am not sure if I need to load these .BIN files or if they come preinstalled. Can you confirm what I would need to do to run standard Marlin, no BL touch.
Hi Chris I love the video and it perfectly explained everything I needed to know! I'm currently looking into getting a different board for my Ender 3 pro because it died just the other day
I bought this board ,, arrived today, my V2 Turbo started giving heater error ( E-1) I'm thinking the thermistor plug on the board. I had replaced the orginial hot end and both heater block and thermistor, still got the error a few times. Installed this E3 V3 board and 1st print was very nice with stock firmware. It must have been that thermistor circuit on the board, in case anyone has this issue. I can see no problems on the old boeard. Thanks Chris for another great video, always appreciate your expertise and time !!
Nice helpful video. Followed you step by step everything works except the extruder. it retracts and feeds in short steps. clockwise to counterclockwise, as if it is stuttering.
Thanks Chris. Bought the 4.2.7 board only to have the common Mosfet fry a few month later. Went with BTT 3 but was confused by the missing terminal block below the main input. Thanks for clearing that up. The Mosfet on the BBT is huge. Did you go ahead and put a heat sink on it?
Hey Chris, I need some help please getting the mini 3v3 to turn on. My first mini v3 I thought was fried cause when I plugged it into my computer no lights would come on nor comms link. So I bought a mini v2 and v3 just to test. Now the v2 will light up and establish a comms link when plugged into the computer but the new v3 still won't light up nor open a comms link... What's the odds that 2 mini 3 v3 are fried? Am I doing something wrong? Or does it require a power 12/24v power supply to come on? Mike
i have a Creality CR5 pro. I'm looking to upgrade to a 32 bit board. Which board would you recommend? I'm looking at the skr mini e3 and the skr3 ez board.
I don't know the CR5 well, but it really comes down to what plugs you need. The mini is a fine board, but you have only 4 drivers, so Z has to share. Also, it depends on what kind of screen you have, remember, the mini is meant for the ender 3 and can work on the old school CR10 with some code changes. The EZ is going to be more universal, but a lot larger.
Picked up a used CR10 recently and was looking for a board. Didn't realize this was THIS new when I bought the v3 last week. Hopefully we'll have a config by the time it arrives.
I bought 2 of these boards, they've been sitting on my desk for a week now waiting for me to install them. I would love a follow up on this video about the sensorless set up. Thanks Chris
You just enable sensorless homing in your firmware and bridge sensorless homing pins with included little red bridge. I found it worst and more worrying than using actual switches and it's not that good as advertised. May be i am missing something important but it's from my experience.
@@hobbyistnotes you are missing something important. the stall detection threshold needs to be tuned for your steppers! if it's not, it will not work as well as it could if it were properly tuned.
im sorry i coulndt find any video of ender 3v2 that has the board in the video and every online post i see says i cant use the screen for the ender 3v2 all i get is a blank screen and beeping sound is it best to try klipper on it i know you got a differnt rig but wanted to see if you can give me pointers on what to do
I have just installed this in my ender 3 v2. The screen is black and the buzzer sounds. Contacted BIGTREETECH and was told the stock screen is incomplete. Probably worth a mention. Now what ? Junk the board or get touch screen? Or is there a fix ?
Yep, the V2 screen is hard to deal with. You could make a new cable that would work, but it's not going to be easy. I would probably just swap to another screen.
For hardware, yes, you will have to get and upated version of firmware to flash it for the CR10 changes. By default they are configured for the ender 3.
I realize this is an old post but how come I can not get a SD card reader extension to work? I use the 3D-printed rear-mounted control box that TeachingTech uses to relocate the hardware for my Ender 3. This board seems to work differently than the 2.0v.
Hi for some reason my Ender 3 Pro is showing as a Ender 3 with the latest version of Marlin with BL touch. is this a problem ? should i worry at all ? any way to fix this? thank you for your help
I don't even know if you are still making videos but my question is... The Ender 3 Max has 2 part cooling fans on both sides of the hot end. Can BOTH of those fans be ran off of the SAME part cooling fan plug on the motherboard?????? Thanks.
I sure am! :) My guess is you would probably be fine doing this, those fans don't have a lot of draw, but I would consult the github and make sure the pins can support the draw of both fans. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware
The firmware in the bio is the whole config. You would have to compile it. There are a few configs available that are plug and play as a bin file. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0.1
hello! I just installed this BigtreeTech skr mini e3 V3.0.1 into my CR10 v2 and was able to get some help for the firmware by someone else.., but I am still running with the issue for the heating process. The bed or nozzle will start to heat up and then fail after a few moments. is there a reason for this and how can I fix it? I also have 4 extra wires labeled k-fan, x limit, z limit and D11, & im not sure if I need these or what to do with them. :(
Does it throw an error? Does it reboot? Sounds like you might not have everything hooked up that it needs. I would have to see a picture of the board and the wires.
@Chris Riley it throws an error that it failrd and needs to be reset. I do have a few wires out that i didnt know where to go, i was told by someone else that those weren't necessary but id have to show you, would there be anyway to send u a picture of that? I really appreciate the help ! 🙏🏼
hi could you help, ive fitted the e3 v3 to my ender 5 pro and the test print is very stretched in the z axis. i also have the biqu h2 v2 extruder fitted
I'm guessing you will have to update some of the setting in the firmware for the ender 5 as the board defaults to an ender 3. You can update some of these commands in eeprom so you don't have to flash new firmware if you use a tool like pronterface. www.pronterface.com/
Please help me with a doubt, I installed my skr 3.0 on my ender v1, everything worked perfectly for 10 minutes, then it stopped and gave a Heated E1 error, I believe that the thermistor of the v1 is 12V and the skr 24v, so Please help me with this doubt, should I change to a hotend thermistor for 24v?
Quick question is it possible to connect the new creality screen to a skr e3 mini v3?... I know everybody's going to say just get a TFT35.... But I have a couple extra creality screens that I would love to use and not spend the money...
I had the 4.2.2 board and now recently upgraded to the 4.2.7 with klipper. Is it worth it to get the skr or should I continue with the 4.2.7. How much better is the skr?
Just got my Version 3 board for my birthday last month. If I only have a stock endor 3 pro, do I need to HAVE the extra Marlin code or Kepler code, or can I use this board with just cura and nothing else?
@@ChrisRiley I think it has something go to do with the configuration in firmware. Or just compatible with sd slot on tft screen. The SD Extender works fine on ender 3 pro original board. It's detected automatically after inserted.
Thanks for the video Chris. I have two z steppers installed, would it be better to use the split cable or two separate cables and are there any issues to be aware of with either option? 👍
Got one of these for my CR10 V3. The stock board for it is larger than the SKR Mini. I'm also putting in a BTT TFT35 V3 with it. I can't find firmware for the CR10 V3 anywhere
Thanks, this setup video helped quite a bit! Now I just have to wait for someone to tune it and upload a .bin for an ender 3... my prints aren't coming out as good as the stock board/firmware
I replaced my old ender 3 pro board to skr mini e3 v3 and now printer dont even power on. Just red light on the motherboard flashing and emitting beeping sounds..
That should be a direct replacement. I would uncable everything except power and turn it on, see if beeping goes away. Then cable things up slowly and test to see what is causing the issue.
@@ChrisRiley Basically I just didn't realize that board is actually works because it literally silent, comparing to my old 4.2.2. I updated marlin firmware by using sd card and use exp3 slot on my stock ender display, because exp1 and exp2 ports are not working with skr e3 v3. Maybe my comment will be helpful for someone. All fine now
Hey Chris, I just installed my v3.0 board and when I fire it up the first thing that comes up is an error saying that it cannot enable bed leveling. Why is that? I'm just getting the firmware for it now.
I am using you video as reference, but the link for the ferrule appears to be incorrect. I have purchased this board and so far have been using you video to set up mine the same but stuck.
Just received my SKR Mini E3 V3.0, 9/22/2022. The processor is STM32G0B0RET6. The data sheet on this says it is 512kb flash and 144kb SRAM memory, 64Mhz.
Question before I get one... My ender 3 pro has the SD and usb slot on the upper left instead of the bottom right... is that because the board is upside down on my older ender 3 pro? as my fan is also on the bottom of that box where the board is....
@@ChrisRiley Thank you,... one more quick question.... What is a Thurmister? LOL I really know what you meant... had to mess with ya... thanks again for the reply..getting ready to put my new board in now...
Chris, great video as usual. I am just in process of upgrading my Ender 3 Max, trying to improve first layer printing. I got a second Z screw and motor and wanted to add G34 gantry levelling. The SKR Mini E3 V3.0, looked like a great update so I did the two upgrades at the same time. Counting Driver output sockets instead of driver chips when the board makes the Z outputs link to the same driver! OOPS! my bad should have been more careful. Ender 3 MAX has 2 part cooling fans and the V4.2.2 board has 2 input connectors. Confusing, but worked it out. BTT diagrams, I downloaded all the docs from Github as usual, on the wiring diagram illustration the 3 hard wired ports DC In, HB and HE0 are all marked grey and green. HEADS UP! DC IN + and - are colour coded reversed against the other 2 inputs. Not complaining to you, but hope this may help someone else. Thanks for all your work.
It might be a bad board, I would unplug everything from the board except the LCD and try to boot up. If that doesn't work, try to re-flash the firmware from the BTT github.
For the BTT Mini 12864 LCD's there's a way to wire and mod the firmware to work with the neopixel pins and EXT connector since it's missing EXT1 and EXT2. It's a pain but it's available and no SD support unfortunately.
PSA: The problem w/ "forcing" 512 on a 256-locked chip is that most times a 512 was deemed unstable but 256k was usable. Pushing code into that other half can cause unsafe/hazardous behavior.
I didn't hear you mention a fuse, though it looks like they included one. Anything to do with safety is an improvement. I have the skr e3 mini v2, if I was to be upgrading the mainboard, I would probably buy the v3.. looks like their going in the right direction, but as you said usb-c would have been nice for futureproofing. I did mention this to them, but they wasn't interested and even seemed insulted, even though I was polite to them..
I got my board installed, good firmware, however when i try and move the Z axis, it also moves Y axis as well. I get no movement with X, but when i I try the Y axis movement it moves X axis. Any thoughts?
hey chris i am having a problem I hooked up my SKR mini V3.0 and I flash it and now I'm getting an "no printer attached" on my screen i my ender 3 i added the smart filament run out senser and a creality CR touch and I don't know what configuration to add
I ordered one of these boards for my stock ender 3 pro. is it required that I put those JST plugs on the fan wires? I just dont have the supplies to do so right now, I was hoping to do this on a budget lol
The slow boat finally arrived and I have this board in hand now. Plan is to replace the stock Ender 3 board + LCD with this one and the touch screen. I also have the BTT UPS board that I need to add. Based on your BTT UPS video it appears like at this point it cannot be used with this board since Marlin cannot yet be compiled for it? Or is it possible to set it up without recompiling?
