I was a very casual cyclist and didnt know much about maintenance except general handiness. I didnt even know what a bottom bracket is called. But my bottom bracket kept making grinding noises. Brought it to no less than 3 bike shops, and the problem kept happening. The last shop held on to my bike for a week, and it turns out he ( and all the previous ones) had just adjusted the bottom bracket. And all charged $10-20 for the non-repair. I gave up on bike shops, bought tools, ckeaned, replaced the balls, lubed, and fixed it up good. And became an avid mechanic, and soon after a bike fanatic. Went for long rides, centuries, and crits. Bought junk bikes and fixed them up, just for fun. So thank you, shady mechanics. If not for you I would still be a very casual rider.
@@Aus10c I had an odd sound that turned out to be creaking shoe cleats. They were tight on the shoe but when I changed them the creaking was gone . Went though everything to find the sound ( saddle rails , bottom bracket , handlebar stem etc ) . The only reason I noticed was because I chain wax which she dismisses at 10:32 😞
@@dawn_rider I feel your pain, but she dismisses waxing for a good reason. From time/cost perspective, it is just not a viable lubrication solution for the average commuter. Speaking from experience (my own), It is possible to track down issues by using a cheap dry lube (Not even a wax lube like Squirt and the equivalents whose efficiency is questionable). E.g. I faced a spoke-pluck squeak which was correlated with the drive side pedal push. The culprit was a cracked rear axle.
Very true. Especially when you listen to your bike, you notice relatively easily if a bolt holding up a rack came loose (1000km offroad might do that for you) or mudguard mounting point snaps. You might be able to repair one broken mounting points, but if several mounting points fail, you often have to replace the whole part. Also you hear when you have to lube your chain or when the brakepad is down to the metal (though I almost always catch that by looking beforehand).
@@kottelkannim4919 It's her reaction as much as what she says that annoys me. I should have replied in a top level comment that I view waxing as ' a tool ' ! In the most time intensive case of immersive waxing , if people can't boil a pan of water , dry over a washing line / hair dryer and turn a switch to melt some wax then the world is in trouble. I concede that it helps to rotate several chains on the bike and for the immersive type , wax them all at once. I don't spend my life waxing and maintaining my bike. That's the whole point of waxing . I don't compete in races or treat my bike as a social status symbol ( I am far to old ). " Shifter " must realise from the number of waxers here that there is merit to the process. For Cargo bikes , especially 750+ Watt E-cargo the power will likely be a bit much but for normal commuters it's fine. At least you didn't break the axle as it can be fun going around a corner when you get that floating feeling !
Two suggestions. 1) Learn how to fix/maintain stuff on your bike one thing at a time. You could start with learning to clean/lube your chain. Then learn to fix a flat or change a tire. Gradually collect tools as needed. 2) Make a maintenance schedule so you don't forget to check up on things. I've added alerts to my calendar so I remember to check for loose bolts once a month, check the tires for wear at regular intervals, and top off the sealant every 3 months.
I think that all regular bicycle-commuters , and long-distance touring cyclists ought to have some idea about bicycle-maintenance, and know how to do road-side repairs. It could mean the difference between getting home or not. I'm almost 65, a lifelong Cyclist, and do all of my own maintenance and repairs. When I was a lad, my friends and I used to build our own bikes from bits we found at the local dump, or at the back of the shed. We used to call them ASPs which meant "All Spare Parts". I rode one of them for well over ten years and still have the frame (a 1959 Carlton) in my shed - with plans to restore it properly when I can afford to powder-coat the frame.
My #1 tip for reducing hassle on your commuter bike: get puncture-resistant tires. I used to deal with punctured inner tubes every 3-6 months at least commuting, from the suburbs to downtown in a big city, and it drove me nuts. With a flat in the morning I could prepare for a stern talking-to from my boss for being late, in winter it took me ages with frozen fingers etc. Then in 2017 I discovered Schwalbe Marathon+ (I'm sure other manufacturers produce similar products). And haven't had a flat since. The bloody inner tubes now last at least as long as the tread on the tires! Not so fond of tubeless, which I ran for a year - if simply because those seem to lose pressure far more quickly, and thus one needs to check tire pressure every week or so, instead of once a month (or so ;) ).
Correct. Since lighter puncture resistant tires (like Marathon Racer or Marathon Almotion) are mainly protected under the tread, correct air pressure is crucial for puncture protection.
For anyone who is wax curious. I highly recommend it! An often overlooked benefit is you can clean your chain by wiping it with a microfibre towel. No degreaser/cleaning fluid needed. This will help make sure you have a clean chain more often and it prevents all your pants from getting weird oil stains.
For the ' wax curious ' ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0O4QMpdPpeY.html ( the " zero friction cycling " youtube channel ) is the best source of information your probably ever going to get. Thanks 1ashen for showing me some hope on this vid 🙂
@@dawn_rider Yes ZFC is the best source, the documents on his website are the best info out there. There's a lot of people out there making wax way more complicated than it needs to be. ZFC turned me on to the Ceramic Speed UFO clean, its kinda pricey but takes the factory grease off chains really well and doesn't require hazmat disposal lol.
Not sure if someone already mentioned this but one part in the video can be misunderstood. "When it comes to lubing your chain and your brake pads..." does not mean brake pads need lubrication. They actually really really really should not get in contact with lubricants ever. Lubing and brake pads were mentioned as two separate topics. Just trying to make sure nobody gets the wrong idea.
This man has no idea what he's talking about brake pads need frequent lubrication to reduce friction on the pads and therefore reduce wear on them. Have never had to replace a break pad before.
I'm really with you on the "buy a low-maintenance bike" tip. I've always been terrible at preventative maintenance (cleaning and lubing) and have prematurely worn out major components on every bike I've ever owned. Now though, I ride a Priority (Apollo) and it really is amazing! I hardly ever wash it and it shrugs off the abuse like it's nothing. This season, after three years of use and several thousand miles, I finally spruced it up with a through clean, re-lube and re-cable and it's running like brand new again! I hope I never go back to a bike with a traditional drive train. Priority is just soo good!
I ride an "Omafiets" type of bike, with full protection of the chain. I do not have to clean my chain, I oil it 2 -3 times a year. Works perfect, no dirt, no strange sounds. It's modern bikes that require a lot of maintenance...
Totally agree with Arleigh about servicing disk brakes. I spent a lot of time reading and watching videos before servicing them for the first time, but found that it was much easier than fiddly rim brakes. I only did the home service because the mechanic I normally went to said he didn't do disk brakes. I don't use him now! I also agree with you about buying a high quality, low maintenance bike. I am pretty happy working on my bike, but bought a bomb-proof e-bike for my wife, who isn't keen on roadside repairs.
I agree too. I find disk brakes not only to need less maintenance overall, but also to be easier. There is a caveat though, most modern disk brakes on more expensive bikes are hydraulic, and if you need to do something fluid related, it can be more of a bother.
@@squngy0 Mine are hydraulic, and I still think they are simpler. You do need to do your homework first and get all the relevant kit (which isn't expensive).
Bear in mind that checking your tyre pressure every ride can just be the thumb test! 😄 I always ensure the bike is clean after riding in the rain, it will tell you it needs it otherwise!
Unless you have mechanic or construction worker tier grip strength this absolutely isn't enough to protect you from pinch flats on thinner tires often seen on commuters. A pressure gauge is the only idiot proof way. You'd be surprised how similar 30 and 60 psi feel when dealing with a thicker tire casing ( I know our customers are when they come in with a pinch flat and we show them squeezing isn't good enough)
I park my bike in my front entry/living room. I walk by it so many times that I notice when things are dirty or don't seem right, and it's so easy to sit down with a rag and clean the chain or derailleur while e.g. noodles are boiling.
9:38 "not something you would do in a car" was hillarious to hear. there are so many car owners out there who will ignore problems until they go away or become catestrophic, and sometimes will continue driving the car even after something is known to be broken. one of my bother's freinds had a truck with a rear differential that had rusted through all its mounts so they just bought some angle iron and welded a little basket onto the bottom structure to cradle it and keep it in place, and as far as i know it is still like that driving to this day.
For me what’s intimidating about it isn’t getting the tire off and replacing the inner tube, it’s getting the wheel off in the first place, especially the back wheel of my belt drive bike
@@ThirdWiggin Facts. So far, I've been able to replace 2 flats in the last year-ish of riding (which has been my first time riding a bike in about 20 years). But both times have been the front tire. I had a flat in the rear tire one time and I immediately said screw this and happily paid my bike mechanic $20 to replace it for me, simply because removing the rear tire is so intimidating for me. But I don't feel too bad about that since I'd rather support a bike mechanic than a car mechanic.
My shop has a free half-hour clinic where you can learn how to change a tube. This skill has come in handy for me several times. Check if your local shop has something similar or someone willing to teach you!
@@elnegrobembon On a derailleur type shifter it really isnt too hard, as long as you dont mind getting your hand dirty (or use some stick) to lift the chain and pull it a bit to the side after pulling the back wheel out until the chain blocks it. Its is a little bit more involved on a hub gear bike as there is no automatic chain tensioning and I have no clue how hard it is on a belt bike. I wouldnt lace my own spokes, but but apart from that everything else is not too hard, with quite a lot of them being pretty easy, so I suggest trying it out, maybe after watching a tutorial. It never hurts to learn stuff like this and if it doesnt work out you can still take it to a bike mechanic.
@@Heimbasteln The thing is, I have an e-bike with a rear hub motor, so it's even more intimidating for me. But I'll keep that in mind for when I get my non-electric bike.
I bought a Priority thanks to you. Riding in the salty/slushy winter of Québec City has never been easier. I barely washed my bike all winter and never had problems.
How does it handle the hills? (Eg for Winter, pente douce and côte d'Abraham) I'd love a simpler bike for the winter but I'm worried about having a low enough gear since I live in basse-ville and work in haute-ville 😛
@@Vio45lin it's good. 3 speed is a bit low tho, I strongly recommend the 7 speed gearbox. Also, buy studded tires if you intend to climb hills. For the downhill, get one with disk brakes. Rim brakes are a bit wonky. For the rest, enjoy the ride and never worry about the sloche :)
$60 to $90 shop labour rates are a good incentive to learn how to do simple tune ups that involve a few squirts of lube and a tweak here and there. I can buy my parts, purchase the tools and do the repair and still come out ahead plus I have the tools for the next time.
Great video, one thing I'd add about chain maintenance especially if you're in a wetter country or have muddier routes is; if the chain is under performing or making noises, first assess if it is dirty before adding lube. I've noticed that in the past I've just kept adding lube and WD40 which just sits on the dirt, coagulates, and attracts more dirt (rinse and repeat). The first time I properly cleaned the chain and gears it was amazing, it's actually a silver colour, not black! Maintenance was sooo much easier after that and I now make sure to always clean it thoroughly once in a while
Just adding a note about tire pressure, if you let it go down too much it's easier to get a 'snakebite' puncture. So I would recommend to check the tire pressure weekly, around here you can easily do that on most petrol stations and pump then up with no effort.
Outside of the initial time investment, wax is one of my favorite easiest ways to keep your chain and gears running great, particularly in dry climates. If you ride in the rain a lot then wax ain't great. But despite riding to work everyday I only have to re-apply wax once a month or two and my chain is never covered in that awful black grease. Don't let the nerds fool you all you need is a nice strong degreaser a few pucks of bike specific wax, a tiny crock pot and some way to hang the chain over the pot while it dries. Reusable master links are really useful and pretty cheap. For sure more complicated than just adding more oil onto a dirty chain but I basically don't need to do more than 5 mins of hands on work on my chains anymore. No scrubbing no wiping no black stains on your hands or clothes its great.
Love the Tannus Armour liners. We tried sealants for a few years, but found sealant is more trouble than it’s worth on a daily rider. It gums up the valve stem, which starts to leak. In the tire, it dries and turns into a gummy mess. The Tannus liners can go 2 or 3 years without maintenance.
I run tubeless on my road bike and mtb, but you are right, it is VERY fussy! Doesn’t seem like a good fit for a commuter or a bike that gets ridden less than once a week. I have my eye on the Tannus inserts for my e-bike, I’ve only heard good things about it so I’ll probably get to that sooner rather than later.
@@JamesFryerCreative Sealants are good for mountain biking, or racing - where you are up for regular maintenance of the tire and valve. Cleaning it out and refreshing the sealant, etc. Sealants are also favored by some bike shops that like to be able to tell the bike purchaser sealant will solve all their problems. Sealants will work great for a few months. Tannus liners do give the tire a "dead" feel, which you notice mostly at first. The Tannus foam does compress over time, the liner takes a "set", and then the dead feeling becomes less noticeable. The Tannus liners also add weight and cost more. In southern Arizona, the dessert thorn capitol of the world, they never gave me a flat. Before the Tannus, I flatted sometimes 3 or 4 times a month certain times of the year. Overall, for an e-bike, the Tannus liners are my favorite, but some people on very lightweight acoustic bikes may not like them.
This was such a great common sense guide to all the basics! One thing I will say is that being able to fix a flat is pretty crucial if your route takes you anywhere far from a local bike shop or public transit. After having to take a very, very, very long walk to a subway alone through a remote neighborhood late at night, I swore I never wanted to get stranded like that again!
I run a community bike project. People donate old bikes, we make sure they are roadworthy, and sell them for a low price. We also do basic repairs. Many of our customers are on very low incomes. I'd guess that most of our customers don't have a car, so the bike is their only means of transport. We see a lot of bikes that were poor quality in the first place, but haven't been looked after. Some have been left outside as there is no room indoors. So my advice isn't for anyone with a fancy bike costing hundreds of dollars/pounds. I'd say tyre pressure is the top priority, then lubing. If you don't use your bike that often, tyres WILL still lose pressure! My essentials would be a track pump (i.e. stand-up) and GT85 for your chain (definitely NOT WD-40 as that isn't waterproof). If you have traditional brake blocks, wipe the wheel rims every so often as that's where dirt builds up. and makes the brakes less effective. Often that annoying noise isn't anything important, just the mudguards out of alignment. rubbing the tyres! If you have a clicking sound coming from the gears., that may be just a minor adjustment on the derailleur, but it could mean a new chain. And if your pedalling isn't smooth, that could mean the bottom bracket is worn. Sadly for most cheap bikes it's not worth the cost of replacing, and your old steed is only fit for the knackers!
I do use the bike WD-40 on my chain and cassette every couple weeks because I like to take it to the beach and it needs the protection. The good news is that it takes literally 10 seconds. Just spray onto a cloth and run the pedals backwards with the cloth gripped loosely on the chain. Then spray the cassette. Just be careful not to spray the brakes.
As you allude at the end of the video, a full front fender goes a long way to keeping the drive clean, since most of what ends up on your drive is thrown onto it from the front tire.
"It's not something you'd do in your car, if your car is making a terrible noise, you're going to bring it to a mechanic." Ahh...my dad was a mechanic, he has some stories...people do stupid shit with their cars too...they ignore serious problems and they spiral and destroy more components all the time. The only difference is that if something goes very wrong there, they might injure or kill someone else as opposed to just themselves. Honestly though, when it comes to maintenance, it's all very context dependent. If you have a very light high end road bike, yeah, you're going to do a lot of maintenance, there's a lot to check and adjust. I have a heavy Dutch bike...mine sees the mechanic once a year for regular maintenance and it literally never gets worked on outside of the very rare flat tire.
For every mechanical braker: -loosen the head -grab a piece of printer paper, fold it on the short side by 2 fingers wide, cut it till it overlaps, and half it. -now you have a set of front and back brake adjusting spacer. -put the 2 finger wide paper between the moving (cable actuated) brake pad, and the disc. -thighten the other(non cable actuated) side full. -Tighten the head, and after that back up a little bit the non cable actuated side, so you can remove the paper, and tighten this side little, and little, until its rubbing, and then back up just enough to not rub. Congratualations you have a snappy responsive brake that can save your life. (advised to practice emergency braking in a parking lot, or somewhere traffic free) I didn't got on my head once in 3 years by cantilever style brakes, but the first emergency braking with a disc brake, I got on my head. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Hi Bike Shop Girl, Seen your channel and will again. I am a bike builder, mechanic and designer. But now I love just riding E-bikes although I'm still fairly bicycle fit. Of course flats are the root of all evils on a ride. A while ago, before I learned of Flat Out, I invented a flat proof tire as has ever been. I invent also. Take a wheel, drill a new valve stem hole opposite the one there. Place in a tube against the rim, then place in a second tube against the tire. Both valve stem out, inflate the tube closest to the tire. If you get a flat, inflate the rim tube. This can work on cars also, although car tires do not use inner tubes anymore. Just thinking if you has a spare rim you might try my idea and make a video on it. Thank you.
Hot waxing your chain is an absolute game changer for maintenance, clean hands when handling, longer chain and sprocket life, just rislnse any road grit after a wet weather ride and re-wax when it starts making noise.
I have a similar bike like yours (Alfine 11 internal gear hub, Belt drive, hydraulic disk brakes) and I can highly recommend it for people that love low maintenance. Swapping brake pads really takes just a couple of minutes, and the rest is really low maintenance.
Here is my simple routine with my bike. just before I get on I check tyre pressure with the thumb test, you get pretty good a knowing the correct pressure and it takes 5 seconds. Pull both brake leavers and rock the bike to ensure that they are working! When putting my bike away for the night I spin the front and rear wheel looking for embedded stones, glass, wire and cuts etc, nothing worse that getting a flat on the start of a ride especially on the way to work! I do these things so habitually now but they have saved me a lot of trouble!
Yes, you should know how to fix a flat especially as a daily commuter like myself. I learned real quick after having my first flat years ago and was lucky that a LBS owner happened to be on the same trail that day. He stopped to help and since then, I learned how to fix a flat on the fly. I don't expect people to be a bike expert but at least know the basics that will get you rolling again.
I had a good pinging noise from the front brake show up tonight. The brake pad spring is catching on the rotor because pads are worn out. But I still prefer the loud scraping noise I get from my car when I go round a corner.😂 Working on a bike is so much easier than a car, anyone who unironically complains about working on a bike must have experienced the joy of a seized drum brake.
Still commuting by e-bike; closing in on 50 000kms pedalled (predict hitting milestone mid-June), and swear by Tannus tire armour. I can change a flat, but with Tannus, I don't have to. I pre-schedule comprehensive tune-ups with my local and favourite bike repair shop every 3 months or 2000kms; I look after everything in between.
For those oiling your chain, if you think adding extra oil removes the muck that sticks to the chain and the metal debris that gets created from wear then your in for a shock. Take the chain off the bike and clean it in baths of mineral turpentine , save the solution then check for metal in it with a magnet ! If your only cycling say 1000 miles a year and have cheap drivetrain components then this is fine. I cycled for 30+ years this way with oil and had to completely replace all my drivetrain annually. Now that I wax I don't face this mess. As a one off job, you have to remove the factory chain grease before waxing but now that can be done with in < 15 minutes using something like ceramic speed UFO cleaner and then washed out with water. For immersive waxing in particular it can have a high initial cost but with expensive drivetrain components, over time with reduced wear costs you easily get that back. Even extreme maintenance is with boiling water and most of the dirt easily separates from the chain and floats to the top of the container , so no harsh chemicals or scrubbing. I get it that this channel does not seem wax friendly and " Shifter " has moved to belt drive so no real incentive to try it. Road salt / grit can be an issue but that will degrade any lube and it's easily washed off unlike with oil. " Bikeshopgirl " needed to explain more why she had no time for wax . It's likely she has had to deal with bad outcomes from DIY waxing gone wrong as there is a lot of terrible information out there and some really bad commercial waxing products as well trying to cash in on the trend. A more likely reason is that most of her customer base are just not into maintenance. Some retailers also have bias due from commercial interest with lubricant suppliers , some are not open to new ideas. I really hope she has actually tried waxing as this was not stated ( The statement ' I have no time ' implies not ). If your going to use oil try something like Silca Synerg-E ( not perfect but nothing is ) that has a chance with harsh conditions, not WD40 Bike Lube. I have put far too much of my time into many comments on this video. At least be open to options , even if you don't take them.
It's easy to check air pressure before every ride. Simply give your tires a squeeze. To prevent flats, I have cheap Kendra tires and cheap plastic liners. Haven't had a flat in 10 years of city riding. I do carry a spare tube, just in case. I lube my chain every couple months. Never a problem. My advice is don't overstress on bike maintenance. Listen for noise. Your bike will usually tell you if there is a problem.
Yea but even just a 10psi difference (with 700cx32) can make a huge difference in ride quality, my bike seems to lose about 10psi a week if I just leave it sitting. I pump my tires before every ride
@klettersteig599 Every ride seems like a slow leak somewhere. Mine were losing some air at one point, then I noticed the valve caps were missing. Replacing them made all the difference.
One of the best things you can do as a bike commuter is become as self-sufficient as you feel comfortable with. I think the minimum to know and so is knowing how to change a tube/tire and keeping your chain lubed properly. This means you will be alble to get to the end of your ride in the vast majority of commutes/jounreys. Having a floor pump at home is an easy fix and keeping them inflated is a great way to reduce flats. A thumb test before leaving home will be sufficient most days. Inflate to the correct pressure on the first day of the week and thumb test after, that takes 90 seconds max to inflate both tires. Secondly, DO NOT OVER LUBE YOUR CHAIN. This will attract more grit and debris producing a rubbing paste to accelerate the wear. Clean the chain and only put one drop of oil on the rollers which are between the side plates. That's the only part of the chain that is in contact with your gears front and back. If the side plates are clean they will not attract dirt, get oil marks on your pants and last a LOT longer. Have fun riding and stay safe.
I found customising my bike and changing parts is the best way to learn about your bike ,how to fix it and keep it running smooth. Love your bike and invest some time into your own maintenance
I think its a good idea to have a routine for doing a pre-ride bike check, the standard abcd of air-brakes-chain-droptest is more than good enough to notice really terrible issues. I appreciate that both Tom and Arleigh are advocates for using your local bike shop or co-op to keep you riding longer.
Love your approach to bike maintenance. Lots of bike enthusiasts recommend excessive amounts of maintenance, and it made me not want to ride as often. I mean who wants to check the tires before each ride and then wash the bike and lube the chain after each ride? I'm much happier to ride now that I have relaxed quite a bit on the maintenance. Monthly tire pressure and 100 miles between chain lube has worked well for me. Also, just a quick shout out for Tom's book. I found Frostbike to be delightful
I would encourage you to check your tyre pressures much more regularly as they are the only thing keeping you upright when cornering (in all road conditions) and when needing to stop quickly, especially in an emergency. Wrong pressures will result in longer braking distances. You never know when you will need to stop in the shortest possible distance. One should never be complacent about safety, and it barely takes 2 minutes to check with a floor pump.
Can confirm that I have gotten a couple flats on Schwalbe Marathons. No tire is 100% puncture proof. That said, they are so much better than a cheap tire that they are worth the money.
Oh my, the wax part was what I would like to call controversial :) The initial waxing is indeed scary for a first timer, but once you've done one round of immersion waxing, you're done and you can just replenish the coating once every 400-500km.
Maybe I scared people off with my concise chain waxing ZFC vid link ! I just don't get why people like rapidly wearing drivetrains from using things like WD40 . Then they have to clean the resulting gritty mess and all the dirt that has stuck to the frame from oil that has flung off. With some bike mechanics I truly feel like I am banging my head against a wall sometimes 😞
This is timely for me. My poorly maintained bike just had a chain failure that pulled the derailler into the spokes and is costing me way more than I expected in replacement parts and labour. This makes me feel (a) better about what I'm spending despite the low value of the bike and (b) more confident that I can avoid the same thing happening again with the new parts.
I’m also a lifelong cyclist and daily commuter. Over 50 years of riding I’ve learned to do most repairs ..even hydraulics. After every winter I end up changing most components in my drive train… especially chain, cassette, and brake pads. This year it was full drivetrain, even the derailleur and bottom bracket. The parts already cost enough and doing the work myself saves me hundreds across my 2 bikes. And the bike isn’t sitting for a week out of commission at the shop. That saving alone pays for the tools you’ll need over time. At the very least, just learn to change a tire and lube properly. And also … don’t bother with waxing a chain. Waste of time and money.
On motorcycles we're taught TCLOCS: Tires&Wheels, Controls, Lights&Electrics, Oil&Fluids, Chassis, Stands. The problem is, comprehensive checks are too cumbersome for our daily transportation, so we're taught it and then we forget it and instead are reactive to problems. It's good to have a periodic check for tire pressures oil level and lamps because if those fail you die. Bicycles can be treated reactively IMO, but if you ride a Class 3 e-bike, you really need to learn to be more comprehensive with your checking. 28 mph is far too fast to have a safety failure. Bike safety classes often teach A-B-C, Air, brakes, chain for quick check every time you ride. These make sense. Also if you ride at night, either check or know your battery powered lights are charged, or carry a backup rear flasher, the kind you buy for $10.
I am in disbelief you check your tire pressure once a month. That’s a recipe for flats. Every ride may be slight overkill (it’s not but I get that it’s not for everyone) but at least once a week is the bare minimum imo.
They cost a little more upfront, but you save in the long term. Internal gear hubs last forever as long as you replace the oil/grease once a year or so, which takes 10 minutes for many models.
Those are really cool options. I wouldn't say classic derailleurs are "awful" tho. I just apply chain degreaser with a paint brush, rinse it off and grease every second chain link. I do it every Saturday cause I ride to work Mon-Fri, it's about as much work as driving to the petrol station and filling up which I haven't done in months. Happy riding
It depends on the application. For an urban commuter (which is the topic of this channel) it's obviously the way to go since it tolerates more abuse and neglect.
Belt drives can only run on frames with separable rear stays - that and the hubs and drive wheels required push the investment costs upward and out of many riders' budgets. A properly-maintained chain drive is an affordable option, with many thousands of miles of travel per chain - and replacing a chain of course remains a much lower cost than refilling a gas tank once😂. Belt drives sound appealling, but would require most riders ditching their otherwise great bikes. Bike maintenance doesn't have to be a costly headache - it's poor bike maintenance that becomes the most expensive.
@@NeverTooTiredToRideTwoTyresI am too lazy for maintenance. And a chain is dirty. (And needs maintenance/grease). Derailleurs are straight from hell. GO AWAY FROM ME!
With respect to the costs, don't be scared of paying for things that you actually ENJOY doing. I have a few bikes even so that I have them in different locations and also in case one breaks down. It helps me keep in shape, it makes me happy, dollar for dollar, honestly its money well spent.
3:49 if you fear screwing up brake adjustments, start with the front wheel only, ride on it a while, then use your confidence boost to do the rear wheel.
I only really clean or lube anything on my bike for one of two reasons. Either I am joining a new group and want to make a good impression, or my bike has started making noise. I just see maintenance as an excuse for upgrading parts.
I bought a JuicedBike on the premise the battery would be standard. Less than 5 years later and I can't upgrade it. I went back to a simple $200 used Linus Dutchi 3. Best bike I've ever owned. ❤
I give my tires a squeeze every time I get on it. We have huge thorns called "goat heads" here and getting a flat is common. I also put the green goop in there. It really helps.
Hi, I got another tip related to parts and maintenance (#7 and #8), which I had to learn the hard way: Expensive bike parts (for example high end Shimano group parts, XTR and what have you) are not necessarily the best parts for your bike. Those parts may be lightweight and competitive for bike races, but they can break down even faster than cheaper parts (more brittle due to their lightweight material, I suppose). TLDR: If you use your bike often and during bad weather, don't buy the cheapest parts but also don't buy the most expensive parts.
On the topic of low maintenance bikes, before you buy a bike, do a little research on whether some of the component selections or design choices might be expensive to service. I was recently tuning one of the rental bikes at my shop. It's a Trek city / commuter style ebike. The way the bike was built, the cables from the handle bar tuck under a plastic cover on the stem and disappear into the frame. It makes the handle bar look very clean by cutting out cable clutter. I discovered this bike had a pinched shifter cable from being crammed under the plastic cap. In order to properly replace it, I would have to disassemble the headset, remove the fork, battery and pull the motor from the frame, in order to run a new cable housing through it. This could potentially be hours of work, just to replace one stupid cable housing. I'm sure the bike is fun to ride, but I would never ever buy a bike designed like this.
- Monthly cleaning + degreasing + lubing is great for most people, even the laziest with maintenance like me. - Weekly tire pressure check, or before long rides. - Put a drop of lube per chain link instead of just squeezing it nilly willy. The bottle will last WAY longer. I've wanted to try putting sealant on my inner tube for my commuter bike, but because of my bike's cheap+old design, I need to deflate the tire as much as possible just to remove the wheel. I'm worried it will be just messy or become a hassle if I ever need to remove the tire in the future.
Nothing was mentioned in the video about regularly cleaning the chain. You both only talked about lubing it. This is important but the chain also needs to be degreased regularly otherwise you are just adding more oil to a dirty and gunked up chain. Also, it pays to check all the fasteners on a bike. Especially make sure the stem and handlebar bolts are tight, the crank is not loose, etc. This can prevent a nasty accident especially on a new bike that was just assembled by a shop. One of the best investments you can make that will last a lifetime is a repair stand, Park Tool or others. Makes maintenance much easier and faster.
Here's bike maintenance tip, probably for steel bikes only. Don't ignore paint scratches and other open metal areas. Better cover them with oil or paint to prevent rust. Cheap relatively fast, works like a charm.
If you ride in wet weather wax is not cost effective. Buy an extra chain leave it on the shelf lube regularly and don't waste $$$ on wax and the heater etc ...
Tom I just bought a Turi … I see it as a better utility / commuter bike than the Continuum if you don’t ride much at night. A 2mm Allen key will adjust brake lever reach on the Tektro-made brakes.
Once u start waxing, u never go back. Worth practicing puncture repair in the garage a couple times. Easy to maintain with external cable routing + rim brakes
It's a little funny that some of the B-roll has maintenance issue with the bike 2:45 the brake little lever to get your wheel out isn't adjusted properly. 3:47 the front tyre isn't seated evenly, you can see the reflective strip go up and down.
I would suggest cleaning your brake blocks when you clean your bike. Small pieces of stone and metal can get embedded and reduce braking performance and damage the wheel rim. When you clean your bike pop the wheel off and have a look at the brake blocks, I find it's easier to clean the bike and wheels with the wheels removed anyway.
On point 7, I’d add that most everyone should stay away from Bosch. Stick with generic hub motors that can be serviced for years to come. Bosch locks you into their proprietary system.
I really liked how Arleigh's sections didn't smoothly integrate with the rest of the video. It gave her a sense of autonomy, so while she mostly doubled down on the tips, it fealt like a genuine endorsement.
@@Shifter_Cycling no, no, I mean it genuinely as a compliment. It almost feels like 2 separate videos smooshed into one. It's cool and helpful! The only disappointment is actually that she didn't comment on choosing low maintenance bikes. I'm buying my first bike in 10 years later this year, and I would've liked to hear her recommendations for key commuting bike features to look for.
Keep your chain cleaner, lubricant and a rag where you store your bike. Spend one minute cleaning the chain and lubing it after every ride. after a few weeks of this your chain will be sparkling clean.
No WD-40 on my chain, it's a bolt loosener. I use Boeshield but just about any real bike lube is fine. Also, if you run low pressures for comfort on trail surfaces, you should figure out how quickly the pressure drops and check it accordingly.
On my city bike, the rear tire goes to 70psi and I find that it loses air much more than front tire that is fatter and goes to 50psi. I bring pump down to grarage once a week to top off both tires (front one just a few strokes). On my road bike with 110psi narrow tires, this is every 2 days or sometimes every day.
If I didn't know how to maintain and fix most things on my bike, I'd buy another one whenever necessary - every 2 years if I had to, and sell my broken one, before I'd spend the same, if not higher amount, at a bike shop, keeping an older one going.
Adjusting brakes is not important simply because they are important for safety, but moreso because, of all parts on a bike, these are the ones that wear at the highest rate, and thus actually require adjustment to adapt to the wear. (Yes, tires wear too, but there's no adjustment to be done there.)
I don't use WD-40 as a lubricant anyway. It wasn't developed as a lubricant, and it evaporates away. Use something designed as a lubricant and your chain won't make those creaky noises so often.
You really should know how to change your own tires on a bike, just like knowing how to put on a spare on a car, but it’s even more important on a bike because there is no AAA. Car tires also require a special machine and can’t really be done by hand. If you don’t want to do it yourself, that’s a completely different thing, but you should know how to so you don’t get stranded.
@@Shifter_Cycling cool, I don’t think they do it here in South Carolina yet. That would be amazing for commuting, I’ve had five flats in the past year. (most of them were my own fault)
5:14 Uhm, I'm hoping she missed a couple of words there! I assume she meant to say "When it comes to lubing your chain and *checking* your brake pads", please never lube your brake pads!!!
Servicing your own breaks is like a electric engineer doing his own electrics, and not a second set of eyes, ensuring proper installment and maintenance. Sure I check and do first needs, but to ensure my work, even being a pro at doing it, is just to make sure I do not make mistakes.
