biOrb Aquarium | How to set-up from new | PART ONE 

Thank you very much and I'm very glad you are finding them helpful. Thanks for Subscribing as it is really appreciated. Yes, any questions... feel free to throw them my way - I can only try :) Take care and keep watching - more videos to come. Best wishes, Mark

You're very welcome. Big thanks thanks to you for your support and for watching them.

H Derek. Thanks very much for watching. Much appreciated. I hope the videos help you. Any problems, please let me know. Best, mark

Hi Heston. That's great and thanks so much for watching this channel and for your support. Hopefully my videos will point you in the right direction. Any problems or advice needed, please feel free to drop me a line. Best wishes, Mark

Glad it was helpful! If you need any advice/ help just drop me a comment. Best wishes, Mark

Many thanks Peter. I really appreciate your kind words. Hopefully my videos will take you through what you need to know. Keep watching! Best, Mark

Hi Sue. Welcome to the Channel and thank you so much for your kind comments. Really appreciated. Best wishes, Mark

Many thanks for watching and commenting. BTW I like the AQUALAMP!! Best, Mark

I would very much like you to review one of my Aqualamp,s please!

Happy to talk further about that. Here's my email.... markbstepbystep@gmail.com

Hi Chloe. Many thanks for your kind comments and for watching the channel. It's always great to hear that people find them useful. Best wishes, Mark

Great and really big thank you for subscribing. It's great to know there are people out there!

Thanks Jimmy. Not so sure about the "slick editing" in this one... but hopefully my videos have improved a bit since those early day ones. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb surprised you haven’t switched your media to the Filterpro BioHome gravel and sponge upgrade.

I'm happy to stick with biOrb/Alfagrog ceramic media in the long term. Both very positive and very negative reports on the use of conversions, especially over the longer term. But for those who want to convert... go for it. The Channels not here to dictate what people do. :)

Hi Jimmy. Interesting reading here: aquariumscience.org/index.php/7-5-denitrifying-media/. If you have converted please let me know how the tank is performing after 6 and 12 months. Best, Mark

Hi Julie. Nice to hear from you. I have biOrb Intelligent heaters in all my aquariums (five tanks). Three of them were brand new and two I picked-up second hand. I have a couple of spare ones just in case (in the garage) as some of my heaters are getting on in age now... But they all still work with no problems. One heater slightly overheats for some reason (it always has!) and always maintains 27.5C in a 30L. But that now lives in a 60L Classic and maintains that tank at 24.5C. I am aware that some people have had problems with them, but that probably goes for any heater from any manufacturer. So far I have, perhaps, been lucky! biOrb stopped producing the Intelligent heater a while back so they are not available from retail outlets. Best wishes, Mark

Yes, very good example of what I've referred to in my videos. Too much water change be very detrimental to fish ... even when changing water that is in drastic need of change. Large changes should be done slowly over time (days) to avoid the drastic changes in water parameters. I assume he didn't give you the 80% he took out, as it might have been better to warm that up and then add back in. Anyway, thanks for your comment... really useful. I hope the other fish pull through. Best, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, no he didn't give me 80 percent of the water he took out. He took it out due to weight. So far 3 black neon tetra's have survived out of the 6. I'm going to pets at home tomorrow to get filter cartridges. The tank currently has multi coloured gravel along with the original larger biorb gravel pieces. After skme research on this tank, I suspect that the smaller gravel has made the filter not work so well so that's getting removed tomorrow. (I would have done it today but I had a wedding to attend). My only fear is the filter media has bacteria, but the gravel is absolutely filthy so I suspect the filter isn't running as good. I didn't actually know the tank came with 6 tetra's until I agreed to buy it...

That's a shame the old water would have been good to refill. Yes, I agree with you, biOrbs use an under gravel filter system which relies on water movement through the ceramic media to the filter. Smaller gravel etc may impede the water flow so should ideally be removed. It might be worth cleaning the existing ceramic media to see if it is good enough to go back in. See my video on cleaning ceramic media. If not, it might be worth adding new ceramic media and restarting the cycle. ATM Colony is a really good product for doing this (with your fish present). If you choose to recycle, it would be very beneficial to also retain, and add back in, a couple of handfulls (at least)of the old ceramic media to help seed the tank with beneficial bacteria. That would speed things up. Personally, I would cleanse the old ceramic media and add back to the tank 50% new ceramic media with 50% old. I would use Colony to support this change. Just like the big water change, it is worth doing all the changes gradually, say over the period of a week, to avoid overly impacting the fish you have left. After all, it seems like the original group of tetras were all fine prior to the dramatic water removing - which suggests the original tank parameters were fairly okay (despite being poorly maintained). I would start with the filter change and then perhaps to look at cleaning or changing the media at the weekend or longer. If there is a lot of waste under the existing media it might be worth using/getting an aquarium Vac to remove this. Hope that helps. Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the in depth reply. I have a vac arriving from Amazon today so will get to work on that when I can. I'm planning to take it slowly to ensure the remaining fish survive. They may be small, but they are still a living organism so I must do the best I can for them as a matter of principle. I'll look to reuse all of his ceramic material along with the new (as further assessment, he may have chucked half away). My plan is to deal with the ceramic material first because the flow to the filter means it's ineffective anyway due to the gravel. I'll probably wait a week or so before I change the filter cartridge if the fish don't show any signs of Ill health. You're right about the water parameters being fine before because as you say, the fish were all alive. I'll keep you updated.

Hi Ana. Yes, it often happens especially during colder months. This is explained in the following Part 2 video (towards the end). The cold water from your tap is highly oxygenated and when it is warmed it releases micro bubbles. These cling to all surfaces and this even more so in a brand new tank. The new plastic surfaces allow these bubbles to cling and they can stay there for some time! You can expect this to happen towards the upper part of the tank (to a lesser degree), when you undertake future water changes. This problem will certainly reduce as the tank matures. By far the best way to remove them is the biOrb multi cleaning tool. It is what I use to deal with this in a new tank and it wouldn't scratch the inside of your biOrb: amzn.to/36FpsHr. You can also use it to tap the decorations and plastic plants to help release the bubbles on those. Please don't use an alternative item or product which may risk scratching the inside of the biOrb. You can also put your hand into the tank and rub the glass surface to release the bubbles but make sure that you avoid the aquarium's water from over flowing over the top. if the water is a bit too high, slightly reduce the water level. Once you've dealt with the bubbles by hand then refill the rank with the water you took out. Best, Mark

Hi. Thanks very much for supporting/ viewing the Channel. I've measured mine for you, using a tape measure, and the full height of the 30l Flow is exactly 39cm. :-) Hope that confirms what you need. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Ahh you're a star thanks, OK I'll trust the main site :)

Hi Marie Clare. Thanks for visiting the new Channel and for commenting. Much appreciated. You are right - biOrb have increased the range of aquariums over the past few years so there is now a good choice. They also have a broad range of sculptures, decorations and artificial plants to choose from. When choosing things to add to the aquarium is it important to get the items suited to the tank type and also its size. If you haven't seen it already, it is useful to have a look at the biOrb catalogue as this will guide you through the different products on offer. This can be found here: www.oase.com/_Resources/Persistent/2/a/0/d/2a0d0c730ffe1429d97cf9ff5c86012494e8c492/BI_Catalogue_B2B_2021-2022_EN_62244_V1_lowres.pdf In terms of the orb shape, there are two models available: Classic and Halo. Both come in a broad number of sizes, colours. I would suggest also that you consider the MCR lighting option as that will allow you to alter the light colour and most importantly the light intensity (I do feel that the standard lighting is a bit too bright for many fish species) Goldfish do tend to need larger sized aquariums and often require a higher level of maintenance, especially in terms of water changes. Even with just 2-3 fish I would go for at least 30 litres (ideally 60l). Both 30 and 60 litre aquariums work well with a very good range of biOrb decorations etc (as you will see from the catalogue which will guide you to what fits with each aquarium type and each size). This includes the slate and wood type decoration options you mentioned - but make sure that the products you choose are correct for the aquarium you plan to get. There is a general rule that the larger the aquarium, the easier it is to maintain. But, I wouldn't suggest to go for the 105 litre size Classic unless you really do have the space for it. I hope that covers what you needed. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb i think i had the classic bio sphere then it only came in sliver,blue & white I have the space & after getting the hand pump to empty the water into a bucket until it was light enough to carry & now i have Bath it will make cleaning even better as before my wet room would flood so now I can easily place it on it’s own rubber bath mat so it won’t move & as before refill i will get the hand pump & a separate bowl for cleaning for the parts,plants etc & i think maybe like before the two goldfish they were 100 times easier then when my dad emotionally guilt tripped me into a tropical tank never ever again i was happy with my two friends so i think the the 30 but will look at the 60 but it might be Just a bit too much for the space sadly there are no shops that sell them near me so i can’t even look at them i do like the new style especially with the base & having a choice of lights is great it will always be purple i remember before buying all my decorations from their site as normal plants their bases were suited & designed for a flat base not the sphere but it won’t be until December now as i have to rely on friends help But it gives me time to declutter & make the area all ready again i am sure the pumps are a lot quieter than the original ones but it will be something to look forward to & once things have been decluttered i can also make the space ready to store the bucket etc As sadly I have a large storage room built in but due to larger furniture etc i can no longer access it which is so frustrating as it means i have limited storage but with my friends help we will get it all sorted So hopefully by Christmas i will have my sphere & two goldfish all settled thank you for the reply along with the links.Marie-Clare

You are very welcome Marie-Clare. So nice to hear from you. Yes, go for the 30L if that is within your price range. In terms of undertaking regular cleaning (removing waste) and water changes please watch my video on aquarium vacs. You might find one of those a low cost and far more useful tool compared to a hand pump (and it does your gravel cleaning too and will take up little storage space). Take care. Best wishes, Mark

Hi KoKo. Thanks for watching the video and it's great to hear from you. I use biOrb air pumps but my tanks are 30l so perhaps don't have the same issue If you want to reduce the air flow into your aquarium you will need to install an air regulator to your airline (tube) to allow you to reduce the air flow. You will need one that fits the biOrb air line (so, I believe, one that fits 4-6mm tubes). These are really low cost and very easy to install. If you look at your air line you will see it has a plastic check valve ("one way valve") positioned between the air pump and the aquarium. This is designed to stop water running back down the tube from the aquarium and into your pump (this can happen if the air pump is switched off for a while). The air valve needs to be installed between the air pump and the check valve (i.e not installed between the check valve and the aquarium). You simply turn off your pump, cut the air line and fit the air regulator. Turn the pump back on and and then adjust air flow using the tap on the regulator. You should be able to get an air valve from your local aquarium supply shop or buy one online (eBay, Amazon). Let me know if you need any further help with this as I can send you more info. Best wishes, Mark

In terms of the "sweating". It could be linked to the high amounts of air bubbles which are popping at the surface. Check that your air stone is properly fitted (pushed down properly onto the tube at the bottom of the aquarium). If that's all fine add the air flow adjuster I mentioned previously. See if adjusting your air flow (and therefore reducing the amount and size of air bubbles) makes a difference. It might help a fair bit but, if not, read on... If you are using a water heater it may also related to condensation. This is very normal in heated aquariums with a closed lid, such as biOrbs. biOrb Halo aquariums are better in this respect as their design hides the top part of the aquarium water (so you can't see the condensation). It mainly happens when the air temp in a room is less than the temp of the aquarium water. It can show more in colder seasons when ambient air temps drop (less so in summer). The only way to reduce the appearance is to raise the height of the water held in the aquarium - say to a maximum of 2cm from the top of the tank but not any higher and not so high that it is touching the tank's light unit. Raising water height would limit the amount of "glass" showing above your water level. You could increase the temp of the room that has the aquarium to help balance the room temp to that similar to the aquarium water temp. You can also occasionally remove or lift up the aquariums lid up for 15 mins to allow the moist air to be released before putting the lid back on. Best, Mark

Hi KoKo. Let me know if things have improved or if you need further help. I need to get far better at this RU-vid thing, so... if you liked the video, please give it a thumbs up and if you value this channel please Subscribe :). Best, Mark

Hi Jenny. Well, all biOrbs have a secure lid system so that's that one covered! The would all cope with the weight of a cat so that's that covered! The lids don't really generate any heat (lights are LED) so that might also help to make them less attractive as spot for cat's to snooze on (sorted!). I think the narrower lid shaped biOrbs would work better as a "deterrent", with those being the Tube 30, Halo or Classic. Depending of the size tank you need, the Life, Flow and Cube could perhaps end up being attractive for cats to sit on (but I'm not sure any of those would work very well for a place to snooze on). Perhaps, if you don't like the "orb" shaped tanks, the Tube 30 might be the way to go? The whole lid comes off those so they are really great for cleaning the aquarium etc. As you know, cats will do whatever (and exactly) they want to (regardless of what you want!)... so no guarantees from me with any of the above. Lol. Best, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks so much for your advice. Yes cats will do exactly as they please 😆 Easier cleaning certainly swings it for me too! I am loving watching your videos, clear and easy to understand as a beginner. Thank you so much for the help 😁

You're always very welcome Jenny! I'm a cat person too, so I can see exactly why you are asking... LOL! Anything else please do feel free to ask. Best wishes, M

Hi, Im not sure why it would be easier to use? The basics of all biOrbs are roughly the same (in how they work). The rest is just water with fish. Im not sure that the halo offers anything better (to make it easier) compared to other biOrbs. The need to clean and maintain etc remains the same. I think it just comes down to what you prefer in terms of design/style. I can't really say I have a view, although I do like the way the Halo hides the surface water line. Best, Mark

Hi Paula. Yes, I still have my male betta and he is very happy with other fish (and snails). He is never aggressive, probably the complete opposite... as he is really sweet and likes people too!! In terms of adding to a tank, betta prefer reasonable water quality (e.g. low to medium tank nitrates). They tend to have a bad reputation but this is mainly related to when adding betta males together (don't do it!). Females can also be difficult in this respect too, especially if adding additional females to a tank that already has one or two in.. In terms of the '1" of fish per gallon' yardstick (for how many fish a tank can support) I would work on a betta being equivalent to 3 x 1" fish. To avoid the chances of getting a difficult fish (and that can happen with many fish species), it is always best to choose one from a supplier that is displaying them with other aquarium fish species present, rather than a betta that is kept in solitude. At least you then know he is happy with others being around. Suppliers such as Maidenhead Aquatics often display their betta with other fish species. Hope that helps. M

@StepbyStep-biOrb that's really helpful Mark, thankyou

I mainly stick to 30s for the Channel and it allows me to fully trial products against each other by using more than one tank (keeping water, fish numbers/ size about the same). But, I do have a 60 and will be doing videos on setting up of a new 60l (orb) shortly. 60s are a little bit easier to deal with in terms of water parameters, but many people are limited with space and will often go for 30s or 15s.

Hi Debbie. It depends on whether you wish to maintain the current biOrb substrate materials and the method biOrb designed for its aquariums. If so, plants that do not require a soil based substrate would be the ones to go for. Java moss, java fern and anubias are probably the first choice for this scenario. See my video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jO088r2mmmw.html. If you read the Description of this video (click on Read More) I provide more info. The following website includes some good catalogues which show plant variations and growth structures, heights etc for the plants I mention above (and others) aquafleur.com/online-catalogue.html. To avoid pests such as snails being imported from a supplier into your tank then you may want to treat the plants before adding. See my video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aHGvL85srdE.html Best wishes, Mark.

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you very much for taking the time to send me the links and information. The catalog website is amazing! I hope they deliver to USA. I will look into more about how to do this and I appreciate your help.

Not a problem Debbie, and really nice to hear from you. The purpose of the catalogue if more about you identifying plants you like and that will suit what you need. Hopefully, you should be able to find most of these plants from a more local supplier. :)

Hi. Nice to hear from you. So, on standard light setting you have to turn lights on and off manually. On the timer setting the MCR cycles through a day and night setting (the length of which is determined by the number of hours you set). In this cycle the lights don't physically turn off - they go through daylight (white) and moonlight (blue) before progressing back into daylight. If you watch my video on lights it will probably cover all you need to know and why you may wish to use them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1FB3963zijg.html. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb oh so the lights are always on but depending on the time of day depends on the colour of the lights?

Yes, when using the timer cycle the lights are always on (either white or moonlight blue... depending on the time of the day/night). The timer allows you to control when the environment within the tank is in night time (blue) or day time (white). The lighting you set within the tank is not intended to mimic the natural lighting of where you live - it intends to mimic the typical lighting conditions of tropical fish.

@@StepbyStep-biOrb ah ok thank you so much

It's a pleasure. as I mentioned, watch the video i did on lighting as it should cover what you need to know. Anything else, just drop me a line. Best wishes, Mark

Hi Matthew. It depends! In a biOrb, the ceramic media supports the biological filter component of the aquarium. The media creates the perfect conditions to "home" nitrifying bacteria (also known as beneficial bacteria or "BB") which are essential to support your fish and healthy aquarium (water) conditions. The biOrb media is the same as another product called Alfagrog. Yes, you could use alternative substrate materials in a biOrb, but this must be a material suitable to support a healthy BB colony. Most natural stones and gravels do not provide a surface suitable to support bacteria (in other aquariums the substrate material is far less important for maintaining BB as BB are maintained in other areas of the tank, often filtration systems). However, substrates that are porous in nature with a large surface area to size ratio (e.g. "volcanic rock based") would be a very suitable alternative. As would man-made substrates designed to act as a biological substrate material (they tend to include splintered glass in their composition). Many of the materials available on the market are designed to be added to large filter systems, rather than for use as a substrate at the bottom of an aquarium (as these require a forced water flow through them). The other thing that you must ensure is that the alternative material is inert (i.e it should not breakdown, leach out materials (such as minerals) nor alter things such as general hardness and pH). biOrbs largely function as an "under gravel filter system" and the ceramic media is provided for that purpose. The aquarium water is drawn down through and around the ceramic media and then drawn towards the central filter system. The BB are aerobic and they need an oxygen supply. The flow of oxygenated water, around and through the ceramic media, supports the BB but also helps to draw fish waste towards the mechanical filter system (i.e. it then gets trapped in the biOrb's sponge filter). Any alternative substrate material would need to support good water movement and not impede water flow. Alternative materials would also need to be of a certain size (let's say "reasonably larger than pea size" at a minimum) to avoid the substrate material getting drawn towards, and trapped under, the central filter system and impeding the central filter's function. Generally, aquarium approved sands and gravels are not suitable for a standard biOrb and would not support the many things I describe further above. However, biOrbs can be "converted" in various ways to allow the use of other materials (including soils, gravels) but some of these conversions may work very well in the short run (and look really great!) but could end up being problematic in the long run, due to the build up of harmful waste products causing poor water quality for the fish (due to increased phosphates, nitrates etc). This may result in the need to completely clean, remove or renew the conversion and associated substrate materials and start afresh. Much of the benefits associated with biOrb conversions are not scientifically proven as being beneficial in the long term. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb great information! Thank you.

Hi Linda. Thanks for visiting the Channel. The first thing to say is that ALL air pumps will create sound - in some situations the sound becomes annoying (noise). There does seem to be variations between the different biOrb air pumps (even with the same models!) with some being better than others. But, I have also found the same issue with other products (non biOrb) such as Eheim. In some cases the sound can also be associated with the sound emitted from the base of the tank, depending on what the tank is standing on (in some cases this creates more noise than the pump itself!). It is certainly worth checking that the noise you describe is coming from the air pump and not from the base of the aquarium. I assume your new tank is sitting in exactly the same place (table etc) as your previous tank? Did the previous biOrb pump on your Life make less noise than the new one that came with your Halo? If so, and you still have the pump for the Life, have you tried swapping them just to check? Does the new pump have a higher air flow through your biOrb? I know people that have biOrbs in their bedroom and have become irritated by the pump sound (bedrooms are probably not the best place to have an aquarium!). They have reduced the problem by putting the pump in a small box with foam included to act as a noise dampener. In terms of other products, I have tested various pumps and have found this one (or at least the one I have!) to produce far less sound/noise than the ones I've tried (and it produces the same air flow as the biOrb pump): amzn.to/3OhOKwc. Sorry if that seems to be more questions than answers and but I do hope it helps. Let me know how you get on. Best wishes, Mark

Also, download a Decibel Meter app onto your phone (they are free). Place the phone on to the floor next to your pump with the phone's microphone 1 inch away from the pump and let me know what the average dB reading is. I can then tell you if you have a noisy pump! Lol

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you for your advice, I will firstly check with a decibel meter and download on my phone. I will come back to you with the results.

The noise emitting from the tank bottom is 54dB, the pump on my carpet is 46dB. The airflow in my Halo seems to be much more powerful than my Life tank. Should I put something under the tank to dampen the noise? It is sitting on a sold wood unit, which isn't absorbing the vibration noise, I like the more powerful airflow of the pump that came with the Halo. Should I maybe get some foam to fit under the tank?

Hi Linda. Happy Easter! So, your pump dB is fairly good (actually). For comparison the Eheim 100 is 77 dB on carpet at 1" distance (and this product is promoted as a low noise pump!). The issue you seem to have is related more to the sound emitting from the base of the aquarium which seems to be resonating against the solid table it is on. This also relates to a higher air flow through the aquarium. The solution is either to reduce the pump airflow (using an airflow regulator but, at the same time, a stronger airflow is good, unless you have a Betta or other fish sensitive to strong water flow!) or, as you say, put something under the tank to dampen the sound against the solid wood unit. Many things would work! I have used foam, gel and felt pads in the past. Something like this: amzn.to/36paVj6 or this: amzn.to/3EkqNQv. I have used both on other people's aquariums to reduce aquarium base sound. I can't say one is better than the other though, in terms of reducing noise. To apply (on a 30L) , you would need to remove about 1/2 to 2/3rd of the tank water, then lift the tank at each corner and add the pads under each corner. Once fitted, quickly put the aquarium's water back in. For glass aquariums, many owners use a product along these lines: amzn.to/3vot7Sv - but I haven't tried these. Best, Mark

Hi Michelle. Well that's a first for me! Ive never heard of this issue before. If you are referring to the base section of the filter system (i.e the container part that holds the sponge and filter media) this should come out reasonably simply... by turning it anti-clockwise. I grab hold of the bubble tube, and then turn it anti-clockwise and the whole unit should come out easily. The whole unit (bubble tube and filter base) needs to come out all in one go. Have you tried adding back the upper part and bubble tube and then turning using the bubble tube to release the whole unit? Best, Mark

I think you may have turned the bubble tube the wrong way (i.e. clockwise) as this will have removed the bubble tube and would leave the rest of the filter in place in the tank. The whole unit is removed by turning the bubble tube anti-clockwise to unlock the unit from the base of the aquarium.

Hi Michelle. Did you get this sorted? Thanks, Mark

Hi Paula. Yes. This is a new ceramic media product that Oase have specifically designed for the biOrb filter system. It is similar in structure to Eheim Substrat Pro but with a more consistent shape/size. The product is starting to be shipped out but isn't generally available through most retail suppliers as of yet. Hope that helps. Mark

Hi Paula. Just in case you didn't notice it... I have now released a video on the new biOrb Pearl Media. Best wishes, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb ha ha I've just seen it this week. I love your videos. Keep them coming

Hi. I think you've tried all the obvious things. Which leaves two more. It sounds like the air flow is causing resonation at the base of the tank. The two things to try are: 1. Underneath the base of the tank there is valve system in place where the air line goes into the tank itself. When filling the tank you may have accidentally poured water down the bubble tube or the tank you received from the supplier has a fault. In either case the valve directly under the tank could be facing the wrong direction and this needs to be reset. For this you just need to use a bicycle pump with an "inflatable ball adapter" (cone shaped) that can be pushed into the 4mm biOrb air line. Give the cycle pump a couple of slow blasts of air up through the tank to see if that corrects the valve direction. 2. The other reason, that can cause the tank base to resonate, is too much air flow from the air pump. Does the air flow in the tank seem overly high? The way to reduce this issue would be to add an air regulator to the air line and to turn down the airflow. I have regulators on all my tanks so that I can adjust to the exact levels I need. The use of a regulator certainly can reduce tank and air pump noise. See my video on "Too many bubbles". Hopefully one or both of these might fix the issue you have. Best, Mark

Also, to note. If this is a new tank and you are yet to cycle it, it pays to maintain as much air flow through the tank to promote initial bacterial growth. If adding a regulator works in terms of the noise you are experiencing, you might be better putting up with the sound for a short while until the tank is fully cycled. Beyond cycling, by all means, turn the air flow down to the level you need it at.

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the informative response, I’ve just totally emptied tank and removed airline fully from point of entry and blown though black (oneway) 90 degree connector, seem no other valve is in place just the ‘airline elbow to airstone fitment which is clear poly. Every thing else was fine as i could tell, refitted the internal stone guard which the filter tube sits on as this was the only other removable piece i could check. The actual housing of the filter cage looks to be bonded with rubber seals to base and this was also solid, i removed screws and checked for one being lose and washers incase these were vibrating but all was good. Filled back up and still no change to noise level. Ive even put the mat and cloth under the airline entry point and under base contact to until stand to suppress any noise but to no avail. Will be inserting a air flow reducer later today once ive been to the Aquatic store. Thats the last thing i can try then its make my mind up time. Will let you know how i get on. Thanks for the advice again. Very much appreciated. Jay Brinkley

Hi Jay I hope it works. After all the things you've checked it sounds like you might have a faulty tank my friend! The air reg might help you though, they are dirt cheap anyway, so well worth a go. You need one that fits 4mm tubing. Best, Mark

@@StepbyStep-biOrb The air flow reducer did the trick Mark, its reduced the noise in the living room to a much better level which is great news. No more Humming from the tank. So pleased now and all thanks to your guidance 10/10 Thank you

Hi, welcome to the Channel. I'm not sure there is such a thing as "best" as most people choose the style and size they want for their home. The round ones will distort the view into the tank so if you would prefer non-distortion of fish etc, then something like the Life or Cube. I think with biOrbs, bigger is better... and bigger is easier! The smaller the tank the less capacity it has for holding fish and the smaller water quantity will likely result in having to undertake more frequent water changes (as the water will show a faster deterioration of water quality, but this is also related to how many fish). I would suggest a minimum of 30l if you want to have a reasonable number of fish, 45l if you can. With lighting you are better choosing one that allows you to adjust the strength of lighting, such as the MCR. Heated tanks are also far easier to cycle as the raised temp supports the initial growth and establishment of the beneficial bacteria you will need to support having fish. Sorry if that's a bit of a none-answer! Anyway, I hope it sort of helps! Best, Mark.

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I think I will have a biOrb flow 8 gallon

Yes, really good choice with that one. It's a great size. If you need any help with anything, cycling, choice of fish etc just shout. The only alternative i also like (which is non biOrb) would be Fluval Edge - another great looking tank. Anyway, whatever you go with, if you need any advice just shout. Take care, Mark.

Lol. That's true Fiona! Although, without one, you may often find that Nerite snails will often go down the inside of the tube and make it all nice and sparkly clean. Bonus!