Clear Christmas costs then get track saw, then get peanut, then lots of wardrobes, cabinets, drawer systems to finish off storage for house we gutted and rebuilt. Happy days in 2021, if we stay healthy! Thanks for video
Snap! I stopped working on the 1st March because of COVID. Decided in July that I wouldn’t go back and have closed down my business. Best thing I’ve done. More free time to do the things I want to do in my workshop or my hobbies
A bead of glue on the bevel edges, a solid front and back and you have a really good loudspeaker cabinet. Also, I think a real unique benefit to the peanut system is a maker could build things that could get mailed out to people to assemble at home. Final glue up and assembly by the customer. Flat pack shipping has to cheaper then fully assembled.
So relieved to see you also screw up occasionally! Just ordered the mini jig based on your video. I hope they give you free products as I doubt I’m the only person to do so
Thanks! The products are provided for the video (hence 'gifted') and I do get a small referral fee from each sale (hence 'Ad') but I only do this with products I believe in, and that have particular value to folks like us. 👍
Great video as always. Seems like once you’ve got used to the system it could be a very clean and quick system. Kitchens bedrooms bathrooms shelving etc 👍
Yes; I’ve suggested a couple of upgrades that could make the jig a little more production-friendly. Nice system though- and the mini jig (out in the new year) should bring the cost of entry down significantly. 👍
This is a really sweet piece. I bet it would look cool to make the shelf out of a piece as wide and deep as the top, and then notch out the reverse angle of your front bevel on the back of the shelf, with bevels cut on the top and bottom of the shelf as well so that it fits nicely and makes both compartments have bevels all around. (The shelf would look like a really portly T at that point) Of course you'd need plywood twice as thick to do it perfectly (all bevels the same)... or two pieces laminated together to get the correct thickness. Hmm I wanna try it. The reverse angle with a double bevel would be interesting to cut.
I have been thinking about investing in a domino cutter for a few months, only to find I couldn’t buy one anywhere when I finally decided to pull the trigger. Now I’m thinking that I’ll wait for the mini jig, try that out and decide if the Festool is still on my wish list. I’m pretty impressed.
I must admit to being a little sceptical at first. But having had some success with a few items on Ebay recently which I post out for the customer to install, I now see this system as being ideal for customer assembly flat-packed items. And with that in mind the cost of the system makes perfect sense. I've just written instructions for a customer to assemble a sideboard with Domino connectors and they're not great for novice home-assembly. Really liked this project and mmm... pretty interested now.
Thanks Karl! Honestly, I was sceptical at first as well - as you know I already have a Domino and Lamello Zeta - but having talked with the founder, and used the system I think it’s an ideal connector for exactly that kind of situation. The mini jig should be out in the new year, which will bring down the cost of entry dramatically. 👍 Shudder to think how long the instructions were for Domino connect fittings! 😱😬👍
Hi Karl. Sorry for the lat follow-on, but out of interest may I ask what it is you're selling for customer assembly? Just curious about potential use-cases and applications of the system. Thanks! P
A interesting video showing a precision bit of kit, but at £399.98 not for an occasional DIY project. If you can cut the angles accurately then you would be able to fit hidden splines..
For anyone starting out that needs to make cabinets, when you consider the cost of clamps, space and just moving things around, this system will pay for itself very quickly. Half the time is doing a dry run with clamps, then the run, then putting everything away afterwards. I also think it would certainly delay the need for a domino for sheet work, so as I see it, a winner all round.
I think it needs a Domino or Zeta type tool for the holes. The present jig is a somewhat pricy vibe kill. Watching your actual experience was very useful. Thanks.
That would be nice, but can’t begin to imagine the development costs of something like that! There’s a mini-jig coming in the new year which I’m told will greatly reduce the cost of entry, though. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh great, good to know, thanks, and BTW a Merry Christmas to you. You're well produced and well thought out videos are a breath of informative fresh air.
I mentioned this to a cabinet maker at work last week. Might send this to him. Although I'm pretty sure including shipping this is NOT a financially viable option for us.
I guess the system is called the peanut system as it requires you to draw peanutses all over your project. 😳 Glad we got one more video from you before the New Year. It’s been fantastic “getting to know you” this year. So glad I found your videos. Thanks for the online advice. All the best for 2021! Year of the Millard.
Thanks Peter.👍 Look forward to seeing the details of the ‘mini - system’ - you have occasioned me to spend far too much money already. That’s a nice design of cabinet, it lends itself to a small adaption inset rear panel and use French cleat to mount on the wall?
I was watching this and the other videos on the peanut website it looks like a really good system but I cannot help thinking your paying £400 for the idea rather than the equipment as a kitchen jig is about £100 so therefore 2 bits should equal £200 which I think would have been a better price but once again thank you for taking the time out to show us 👍 much appreciated Peter
Thanks Paul. Thing is, I’m old enough to remember when a kitchen worktop jig was around £400 - and that’s just a piece of board with a slot in it. The £400 is for the starter kit btw, jig, bits, everything you need. There’s a mini jig coming soon that brings the cost of entry down significantly.👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Do you think that of all the connection systems that you have you used that the Domino is the most versatile or do you think that might change with something like the Peanut 2
Domino is hands down the most versatile, yes, and no jig & router system will beat the convenience of a dedicated hand-held power tool. But the peanut system plugs that gap between a decent biscuit jointer and the domino, price-wise, and will do even better once the mini jig lands. I wouldn’t swap my domino for anything, but I can absolutely see myself using peanuts instead of clamex or tenso connectors in future, yes. 👍
Using the jig have you found it confusing to remember to position the correct face out when clamping in the jig? I imagine you can’t flip the material man’s have the joint remain flush.
No; after ~20-odd tears if using machinery that needs to be referenced off a face and edge it’s second nature. I do need to think about the direction of travel in the joint, especially if I’m coming back to it after using eg Dominos. 👍
Hi Peter, I'd like to give you a huge thank you for the inspiration you gave me showing the peanut system. I'm building a small book case from mdf, and I was wondering how to make joints that are invisible but can be disassembled at the same time. Your first video on the Peanut 2 system, gave me the idea to make my own diy peanut system using small metal plates with a key hole shape in it (used for hanging cabinets to a wall) and regular screws to replace the peanuts. It works like a charme and I'm very happy with the results. So thank you for the inspiration and have a great Christmas!! All the best from the Netherlands, Martijn
“Just draw a little keyhole shape”. Did you feel at all childish when drawing these. As I certainly up did watching it. But then again I am immensely immature 😂🤣
Sure. You could use the jig to cut the slots in the back and just measure/mark the peanuts into the wall. You need a decent wall though - I wouldn’t try it in the Victorian properties I mostly worked in! 👍👍
A god-send for the pro cabinet builder but [especially initial setup] seems, cost wise, a little prohibitive for the DIYer. Could this mean, we 'do' have too many clamps?
Thanks Keith! Yes, there’s a mini jig coming in the new year which makes the cost of entry much lower - as soon as I have it, you’ll see it! And too many clamps?? Never! 😂👍👍
oh glad you are back at it. have you considered selling these types of items? would seem to be a decent type of thing you can mail out and clients put together. much cheaper than alternative methods too.
Thanks! No, I’ve never considered a mail order kind of business (hate to think what the shipping costs would be!) but for anyone who does that kind of thing then these are a very simple connector for customers to get their heads around. 👍👍
Peter, when I clic on the free plans link for wall cabinet it only brings me to PDFs of the peanut slots and cutters. Do not see any plans for the cabinet itself. Please clarify. Thank you.
Not sure which link you're clicking on bu this one - bit.ly/bedsideplans - takes me straight to the download page for IF, where the plans are. The download link is just above my video on their page. 👍
I still don’t quite understand how the shape of the keyhole is being being routed out. The guide seems merely an oval. Yet produces the wider the thinner shape. Am I being unbelievably thick??
@@10MinuteWorkshop ahhhhhh. That’s makes so much more sense. Guess I just missed it. I just thought you had Jedi like control of the router to do it. Perhaps you are just a mortal after all
Nice video Peter but I think I still prefer the Festool Domino kex machine when I’m joining beveled edges. (Apologizes for my poor English!) Happy holidays and a Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thanks Thomas! No problem - as I say in the previous video, there’s no one perfect solution for everyone, or for everything, and if you have the Domino then enjoy it! And thank you - very best wishes to you too! 👍👍
Honestly, I was sceptical at first, but having used it a little it’s a clever system that produces a strong joint that can be assembled with minimal tools - something that eg a customer could use if required. 👍👍
Looks a really good system, the clamping for edge fixings looked a little awkward. Holding it up and clamping tight. Do you think this is a potential error point too if the board moves down slightly when you start drilling or just not likely to happen?
Nit likely to happen, though I’d imagine you could do it the other way around - lay the workpiece flat and offer the jig up to it. Means you’d be handling the router at an angle though. Must admit I wish the proprietary bit was available in 8mm shank - or 1/4” ideally - as you’d be able to use a much lighter-weight router for the job. I need to experiment a bit more without tbh, as there seem to be other ways of working it. 👍👍
As always Peter a neat and concise review. You look well rested now you have retired from competitive cabinet making, lol. Jig is circa £300 and I'm sure it's worth every penny at it looks well made but you are nearly half way to a new Domino, which I would say (unless you are looking to use it ito make knockdown pieces) is more versatile and and for the application you used about four thousand times quicker! What am I missing?
Thanks Richard! You're missing the mini-jig (out in the New Year) which changes the economics of entry considerably! Yes, the starter kit used here is ~£400, more than halfway towards a Domino, and as I've said before the Domino is absolutely the most versatile of the hand-held jointing machines. But it's a pig to use for knock-down fittings (add the Domino Connect kit to your domino and you're almost at the price of a Lamello Zeat!) and if you're not using KD fittings then you'll be clamping for ~20 minutes or so every time you glue-up, or be using some kind of 'invasive' mechanical fixings, eg screws. Nothing wrong with that, but the Peanut2 is a self-clamping, connector that doesn't marr the surface of the workpiece, and can be handled as soon as it's slid together. That's where the time-saving comes, at the end - not at the beginning when you're cutting the mortices. There are also other considerations - wether you need to flat-pack a piece for assembly by novices, for example, plus cost-savings, ongoing price of connectors etc.. etc.. As I said in the first video, there's no one true connector or jointing method for everything, or for everyone - it's good to have choices. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thankfully I don't need to deal with knockdown fittings. It looked a great system but a monumental faff in comparison with the Domino. Let's see what the mini jig brings to the party.
To be honest you rarely use it - the notch in the jig is much better placed as a guide, though I have suggested they put a notch in the top,of the slot as well. 👍👍
Are these any quicker to use with having to clamp each board all 4 sides at most, than say biscuits and glue? Probably best for cranking out in mass production, yeah?
At the slot cutting stage then the biscuit jointer would be faster, but at the glue-up, the peanuts joints are ready to go as soon as they’re slid together, vs 20-30 minutes in clamps with glue & biscuits. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fair call, so many new fandangle thingymuhjigs hitting the market these days. Can make the head spin a little in the style of Linda Blair!😳😆😆😆
How did you feel it measured up against the DF500 connectors? I’ve got two ‘shaker style’ mirror frames, 6’ x 3’ (1.8M x 0.9M) 😬I’ll be using the DF500 connectors on, but I sure wish I hade these ‘Peanut connectors’. I would Not have to install plugs and complete the touch up finish on the wall. 🥺
Thanks Steve. The tapering only happens on the CNC version - in this router & jig version it's a flat-base. It achieves the tightness by being a very accurate fit; as you slide the fitting along the trailing edge of the fitting catches and forms a slight wedge that gets tighter as you push it home. That's how it was explained to me, anyway! I'm just happy that it works! 👍
Peter, IF doesn't seem to give advice on how many Peanuts you need for size of carcass? Is this something you can shed any light on? I see there loadings - but just not sure how many to use if doing a long joint?
I'd treat them a bit like dominos - I'd probably use 3 on a standard ~550mm carcass, maybe 4 if it was 650mm and the front was going to take some heavy doors. But they're very strong, they pull everything together very tightly. 👍
Great video Peter thanks. I was just about to pull the trigger on a 1/4” dewalt router, now I’m having second thoughts! Have you heard any news on when the mini jig will arrive?
They go where the jig puts them, but I agree it’ is close to the inside edge; I’d guess that’s where the ‘meat’ of the bevel is, for strength?? Again, perhaps one for @intelligentfixings to answer definitively?? 👍👍
Hi Bruce, thanks for your question, the slots are deliberately right on the inside edge of the mitre. This as Peter says is where the material is strongest and it also enables the use of a 30mm screw to maximise on the strength of the joint. Despite being close it does remain entirely hidden.
@@IntelligentFixings I understand now. The hole is drilled perp to the mitre. Therefore, if it were more toward the middle of the piece there would be less wall on the outside face of the box. Possible blow out or a bubble.
Hi Peter, thank you for the videos. I became a Patreon supporter of yours last week, after binge watching your videos over the Christmas break. Your project videos and tool reviews genuinely inspired me to purchase a Makita track saw, guides, mft style work table, bench dogs, clamps, fence etc in the Christmas/January sales with money I saved from cancelled holidays this year. I would like to start with simple furniture projects using a decent quality ply wood and probably some hardwood edging. The problem is I am stuck when it comes to sourcing decent quality plywood and hardwood that won't derail my project before I even start. I would also prefer to get the ply cut down to some degree, and the hardwood planed to the correct thickness. Could you recommend any suppliers that may be able to help? I live in Eastbourne if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance. P.S Sorry for the long winded post!
Hi Michael, and welcome! There’s a ‘sticky’ thread on my Patreon page that lists recommended timber yards - don’t know if there’s anything near Eastbourne on there but worth a look? Personally I buy from a local timber yard, ajferguson.co.uk who are very good, but I don’t think they’ll deliver as far as you! Thanks again, Peter👍
Fine - but you need to be sure you're comparing like-for-like. No jig & router system can compete with a stand-alone powertool at the slot-cutting stage, but the time-saving comes at the other end when you glue-up ie no clamping up for 20-30 minutes. 🤷♂️👍
Thanks! They're just a bit of 'mood' lighting for when I'm doing my 'talking head' pieces; just basic little LED stage lights - bit.ly/stage-lights - I bought one thinking they might replace the big hiot lights I used to use sometimes, but it wasn't up to the job, but it worked great as a little accent light.👍
Peter you are awesome. My favorite workshop on RU-vid. You’ve become my go to example for how much you can accomplish with a track saw. As a regular MFT user I was wondering have you ever heard of the Kreg Adaptive cutting System? I’m not sure if they sell it in Europe. (It’s a MFT style table system)
A lovely little project that was explained well, thank you. I do like birch ply but find it very expensive and not so easy to find. where do you get yours from?
Nice cabinet, love the bevel edge. I tried mitre cuts with my TS55 a while ago, but was not impressed. Do you find your method more accurate? I think I read about doing them that way on the FOG. Maybe give it another go in the future.
This is regular Birch ply; 'Baltic Birch' seems to be an americanism - I think most of the Birch ply we have here in the UK is from the Baltic, unless it;'s specifically eg scandanavian. 👍
Ok random question. In one of your videos I noticed in the background what looked like a Triton Doweling jointer. Am I correct? If so, could you do some type of review? Its only a fraction of the price of the mafell so....
Unless it was a very old video, I’m pretty sure it wasn’t! I bought two of the dowellers - maybe three, can’t remember tbh - a few years ago to compare with the Domino and they were unusable. That said, a friend has just bought the current one and is mighty impressed with it, so maybe they’ve sorted out the issues. Maybe I’ll have to get hold of one and see! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I would really appreciate it if you could do a review of the Triton duo dowler. I have found your reviews to be the best. In fact, your review is why I purchased the Bosch (made by Mafell) track saw. Thanks again!
Thanks Jonny! Whatever my local timber yard stocks! 😂 It's usually B/BB, and I don't think I've ever had a bad sheet from them. www.ajferguson.co.uk, good yard, good people. 👍👍
Hi Peter, I want to make a similar cabinet (a bit larger, with doors) so I also asked help on a Dutch woodworking forum. Since I’m new to ‘exact’ cabinet making. Some of them advised against doing beveld corners because of squareness and consistent sizing issues with a tracksaw. Also because the splinterguard is set up for 90 instead of 45 degrees, which should give some deviation in size. I have a Bosch GKT tracksaw, an MFT and benchdogs and the fence system from benchdogs.co.uk. And watching your video’s gives me hope that I could do it also fairly accurate. Can you give advice (or maybe you have a video?) on how to make (for instance the top and bottom) panels the exact same size with beveld corners? Thank you very much!!
Hi Jelle. There’s no question that bevel cuts - long mitres, basically - are one of the most challenging cuts to make, as there’s basically nowhere to hide! A lot of people will insist that it’s a job for a table-saw but you can make repeat mites well with a tracksaw, you just need to be very careful with your meaning out, and be prepared to make test cuts to get a perfect 45° Getting the cuts straight shouldn’t be an issue if you have an MFT, and I’ve always found it easier to cut the pieces to size first as straight cuts, then bevel the edges. I don’t know why this makes a difference, but it does seem to! Other than that, it’s just a question of maintaining an even pressure whilst making the cut, so the cut-line doesn’t deviate. What your forum pals say about the Bosch (and Mafell) re the splinter guard is true, but it shouldn’t affect the size; depending on the material the quality of the cut on the upper face may be affected, but a sharp blade should take care of any of those concerns. You won’t know until you try it, but if you do have any issues getting a nice straight bevel cut, then the outrigger like I showed in video 413, Anti-tip - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hpJXwEJkgpQ.html - might be worth making? The one I showed in that video has sold out now, and tbh it’s more of a help if you were trying to make these cuts on-site, rather than in a workshop, but still worth having. Hope that helps - let me know how you get on! Peter. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop First of all thank you for your answer! Can you explain what you mean when you said "be very careful with your meaning out". English isn't my mother tongue, and maybe it's a typo. But I couldn't find a fitting translation. And what I meant with the splinter guard is that when in 45 degrees, the cut isn't exact on the splinter guard, but around 1mm next to it. So if you have your splinterguard markings on for instance 800mm for the top plate, it will become 802mm (or so) with bevel cuts. With the flag stop of the fence, in my case it won't be a problem, because I will add that consistently to all the plates then. And this cabinet is just a simple one to try and get some experience. I tried to buy the Anti-Tip tool. But as you said, it has sold out. And I saw a comment of Stu on his channel (he posted 1 day ago) that he doesn't know if he will make another batch. (Maybe something for Ralph from benchdogs.co.uk? ;-)) Thanks again! I will start with a lot of test cuts to see if it will be an option. Because I don't have your experience and skillset. Thanks again! And thank you for your channel! I'm always looking forward for a new video.
Sorry Jelle, that was just a typo - it’s supposed to be ‘marking out’, apologies for the confusion! Ah, OK, apologies again - the Mafell saw has a little indicator that moves out as you tip the saw over to show where the cut-line will be and I assumed the Bosch also had one - I guess not?? As long as you get a test cut that you can relate to the splinterguard edge it should be repeatable though? Hope that makes sense!
Im about to make a similar floating cabinet and decided to use a router table to make all my 45 degree bevel cuts to avoid all issues associated with misalignment on track/table saws. I think this is the way to go for a perfect joint on long mitres… hope so!
As I say in the vid, this was the first time I've used the jig on a carcass so I was taking it very steady, whilst shooting video.🤷♂️ No 'jig & router' system can compete with eg a Domino **at the slot-cutting stage** but the time savings come at the end, during the glue-up, when this system produces a strong joint as soon as it's slid together. If you don't need that, that's fine - as I said in the first video, there's no one true connector or jointing method for everything, or for everyone - it's good to have choices. 👍👍
Hi Peter. I’ve been wondering how to connect a fully painted shelf unit I’m planning. If I use biscuits and glue, the glue won’t stick well to the painted surfaces. This looks ideal for getting all the components painted in advance, then just slotted together. Merry Christmas and thanks for the great vids!
Hi, I was just wondering regarding adding glue - It would be something I would do for a piece to be hung, but is it not too snug for glue ? Also if it was say a beside cabinet to sit on the floor for example and not hung do you thing the peanuts are good enough without the use of glue? Thanks Peter and a merry merry Christmas :), ahhh ps how would you rate it with festool domino connectors ?
Hi Christopher. I think a bead of glue in there would ensure that there's no chance of 'gappiness' around the bevels should eg the moisture content change in the room, but it's absolutely strong enough to wall-hand just using the peanuts, no glue. They're an incredibly strong connector - and I'd put them up against the Domino Connect connectors all day long - in fact I may well do that! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Very interesting! I am looking at my next move of a connector to use for flat pack items to send to customers you see. Only issue is they may need a mallet to give it a bit of help . Its a hell of an outlay just to try really and see if it is suitable.
Hi Christopher. This is the perfect system for shipping flat-packed items for assembly by novices. If you scroll down the comments to one by Karl @strawbyteworkshop who says exactly this. I must admit I’m slightly embarrassed that I didn’t think of this myself, but then I don’t do that kind of work. Anyway, Karl has had to write a detailed assembly guide for customers to assemble things made with Domino Connect fittings, and the ease of use with the peanut would make this so much easier. You might want to wait for the mini-jig though (out in the new year) which should significantly reduce the cost of entry. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi, I will dot that. I am looking to move towards Festool items but the outlay for me at the moment is a lot and so I want to make alternative tool options and buy less of the festool range over the next months. Thanks again Peter :)
Hi Christopher. Out of interest, may I ask what it is that you're making that needs to be flat-packed for customer assembly? Just curious about potential applications! Thaks! Peter
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter, thanks for checking in. It was just my first time working with a few of these techniques so I was just fiddling with all the different things and ended up with ill fitting/non-square pieces. I'm going to try again next week! Your video was fantastic and clear as can be! Thanks for making them and please never stop.
Hi Peter. Love the channel. Have you checked out the TSO product rail square system? It would be an interesting one to compare to the MFT/bench dog options.
Thanks! No, I haven't; as I said in my rail square video, I had all kinds of offers and politely declined because of my early experiences with one. Benchdogs persisted, sent me one, and I'm glad they did! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Sorry, I meant their parallel guide system. It uses a rail square with tracks to allow you to make repeatable square/ parallel cuts. Thanks!
Good video, as always. Personally though, and of course no offense to you Peter, I have to say I hate the look of this whole "cabinet" thingy, I would not use it as my furniture no matter what finish one might apply to it.
Yes, it's a proprietary bit. As I say in the vid, this is about the build, not the Peanut 2 system; for details on that see the previous videos - there are links in the description, or this one is a good starting point - vid. 429 Peanut 2 connector ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AjS2cAiQyzY.html 👍
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