When it comes to thinking about nut/bolt strength, it's worth remembering that there's a big difference between static load and dynamic load. To borrow Mike's example of a lifting chain, it might be rated for 500kg when it actually has a breaking strain of 800kg but that's a STATIC load. If you're lifting something that weighs 500kg and it gets stuck, comes loose and then jerks the chain you could easily find yourself exceeding the 800kg brreaking strain and end up wearing a 500kg load as a hat. Another good example is waterproof watches. It might say something like "Certified water resistant to 10 Atmospheres", which means it is, theoretically, water resistant down to 100m depth. In reality, if you go swimming you'll find the watch will leak at a depth of around 30m. That's cos, when you're flapping your arms around while swimming, you're applying additional pressure to the seals, much higher than the static head pressure of the water, alone. Similar thing applies to wheel-nuts. It's not just the static load that you have to think about but the worst-case dynamic load too - from every-day things like driving over a speed-bump to more dramatic cases like when a 4x4 slides sideways on a track and the side of the wheel smacks into something. I suppose you could do the maths for working out the maximum dynamic load that you might encounter but it's probably simpler to just hope that somebody smart has already done the sums when designing a thing and fit nuts/bolts as instructed.
Hi I’ve recently found your channel and I’m really enjoying your useful content. I’m a retired engineer from a UK automotive manufacturer, a little bit further north than your apprenticeship days. The rule of thumb we used to employ for thread engagement was 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. Another useful fact is torque is 80 - 90% friction, so never lubricate a nut when assembling, as you will reduce the friction and probably strip or snap the bolt.
Just fitted Wolf wheels to a 2013 Defender 90 that had Boost wheels. Client bought non genuine Wolf wheels. Seller told client they have sold lots of these wheels no problems(they would say that, wouldn't they?) I showed client the phenomenon of studs not protruding through nuts. However, the basic rule of thumb for fasteners is that the contact length of thread , nut length, should equal the diameter of the fastener. ie; a 1/2" thread needs 1/2" long nut . With the standard studs and nuts with Wolf wheels fitted the depth of contact thread is approximately the same length as the stud diameter. Don't forget that the wheel nuts are chamfered , the chamfered portion is threaded which imparts that little extra thread depth. I don't like the set up, but theoretically it is borderline kosher.
Really good informative story about the caravan bolts. Really helps you understand what you can get away with in an emergency. I used to work with a guy, he was known as Herdy, I will use that name to protect the innocent. He came across as daft as a brush, he would do labouring jobs driving, anything he could. At one point he was driving coal lorries. They weren't very well maintained and one of the wheels only had two wheel nuts on! Herdy drove that truck around for months, fully loaded with coal! Bless him. A lovely man, when I say he came across as daft as a brush, he wasn't, he was really an academic who was lost in the wrong world. He would do the Times crossword without even trying. Just thought of another story, he was driving his lorry one day and the steering wheel came off in his hands! He did manage to get it back on before it went really wrong. He got home OK, he worked out that a wheel nut was the same thread as the steering wheel. I always did wonder whether the previous driver had been doing the same thing for years.
Hi , just my two pence but wolfs have different wheel studs i am ex Reme , part number RUF500010 and they are a few threads longer , part number is from a wolf parts catalogue .
Thanks, Mike, insightful as ever. sitting here with a new tow ball, spacer and bolts for my Disco 1 waiting to be fitted, I found the bit about tow ball bolts especially useful.
Just use the correct bolts, but some chassis I have seen are very thin and I would expect the cross sectional area is less than 1 regular tow bar bolt!
Short studs? My wheel nuts came loose one time and it was the bang bang bang that alerted me to stop and check, as the wheel slopped about.. If I had short studs, then i would have lost the Wheel!
Sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can give me
@Avi Connor I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
My SIII came with Disco 1 steel wheels and the studs have always been a couple of threads short. Concerning, but they have held well at standard torque for years...
....I've done over 120,000 miles in my 300tdi Defender 90 with Wolf wheels and standard studs and nuts, with a hell of a lot of hard off-roading mixed in...with ne'er a problem....mind you I always tighten the nuts up FT with a 3 ft knuckle bar :)
We imported one 110 from the UK and the last owner put the wheels on with a 1 inch impact for truck wheels Broke 2 x 3 foot bars with an 8 foot extension Had to heat them up in the end - just shows how much they will take before stripping
I'm the same but I have always done them up to book torque. I looked at fitting longer studs on my rebuild but they are something like £8 each but standard are only about £2 each!
Smiths ship yard one of my former work mates worked there as w welder he also played football for Middlesbrough . His name is Gary Coleman . He work with me in Rotherham at Rotherham container company welding things up for the oil & gas industries as well as waste management. He was one of the last to work at smiths before it closed it's doors
Redcar Tech 78 - 81 never did a practical lesson there, rambling on about steam generation for months, and parts of plant at the old steel works, which for us ICI lads might as well have been on the moon Would like to say happy days, but they weren't
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thought you were ICI Apprentice, it was your fibre glass shafted hammer that gave it away. I have the same one from my time as an apprentice at ICI Billingham 79 - 83. I agree with you on your first Land Rover will probably be your worst Land Rover, I’ve got five now and I am still hoping one will turn out to be a good Land Rover (probably says more about me than Land Rover’s) but with your excellent tips, advice and inspiration they are all definitely getting better. Great videos, keep up the good work. Thanks
Hello Mike. I've no idea whether you'll see this, as I've just watched your excellent video from 3 years ago! I have a 1959 Series II with its original hubs and has the screw in type studs. I'm looking to replace them and I know I could change the hubs to the later model with push-in studs, but I'd like to keep it original. What I cannot find anywhere is the correct torque setting for the studs and lug nuts. (The only reference for the nuts says don't use an extension to wheel brace.) I've tried the forums without success and having watched and enjoyed many of your videos, it strikes me that if anyone knows it will be you... Kind regards, Mat
Good question 217360 2 thread stud supersede to 561590 - originals were 9/16 BSF Torques for 9/16 BSF should be grade A 50 ft/lbs, grade P 73 ft/lbs, grade R are 113 ft/lbs, and grade S are 117 ft/lbs Several problems - you do no know what grade the studs are, they are made in China, so they will not be the best materials, and they are into cast iron which is very weak and why they changed to the spline From experience, I always replace the double thread with 561886 which are a spline fit but with 9/16 BSF thread, so the double ended nuts are the same, but with much better attachment to the hub - when you remove the double ended threads you will tear out the thread in the hub as they were supposed to be peened over to stop them coming out Better safe, than looking authentic with a loose wheel
Thank you for the really quick reply. Not only have you answered the question which was eluding me, but it's also full of sound advice with detail that I've not found elsewhere. I just wish your workshop was based in the UK! (My go to Land Rover guru retired last year and despite him trying for years to find someone to train and take over the business, no one was interested...). Looking forward to your future videos :-)
We wanted the extra strength of the Wolf, and i read around about the stud issue. Ebay and proper sellers means you can choose from LR genuine, bearmach, britpart and allmakes as brands in the longer wheel studs. Um, wheels are important ... we're not choosing exterior mirrors or other bits, wheels can be life or death, these days your Landy deals with 120kmph freeways as well as rocky river crossings. We went with bearmach. Was it worth the money? Peace of mind was important to me having been in a LR proper prang years ago (on a main road at speed), and for the same reason we fitted rear disc brakes. No doubt we won't be around forever, but we won't be going due to cutting corners on the wheels.
I was an aprentise welder for 4 years am one now for 20 years butt i had to do basic filling basic tool making etc and had to remove m30 nuts from bolts with a chissel and hammer sometimes hitting my thumb my tutor used to say i should be a millwright butt due to the new south africa i could not learn for it butt while i was hitting the nut that one friday i got a very sore pain in my side my tutor asked me if i hit myself with the hammer and teased me about it it turned out that i had a uranal stone or kidney stone as its called nice to hear your story's i worked with a redesion man called robby williams he went on pension you make me think of him you have the same acsent
Hi Mike, great vid again. Can you tell, whether I can leave the hubs on, while changing the studs to FRC7577 Wolf studs to a Series 109 1984( already M16*1.5)?
I remember years ago I had wolfs on my 90 axle like that. I eventually swapped it for a Discovery axle with the longer stud. It doesn't look good to have the inner stud not protruding.
I had the most boring apprenticeship - after 6 months in the training centre I had all I needed to know Next 3 1/2 years of changing gaskets and replacing pumps (not repairing them as they was not allowed - union rules) Soon as I got my papers I was off!
Question: who carries around a torque wrench in case they get a flat tyre? Mike, if you change tyres ( summer/winter ) twice a year, changing studs isn't that big a deal. Still, makes me glad I live in Australia. However, If I presented a car for a roadworthy inspection here with wheel studs that did not project past the nuts it would fail.
Same here - but not just one fail - but 20! (Hey this is government - gotta get those fails up!) You should have seen the stuff we had to do with the double end nuts to get them to pass in the beginning until I literality pulled the wheel and drum off the truck to explain to the inspector that the nut is flush with the stud - at first we used to cut them in half and re fit a new set after inspection Maybe I should do a video on the total BS we go through for inspection here (good thing we only need one inspection when we import a vehicle) Mike
Regimental work shops where fun places if for the novelty of it but one saying and it’s not all that correct engineeringly speaking but in the field fancy things like torque wrenches may not be available me being a young sprog was just told to T-F it. What’s that I asked “tight as fuck” here’s a spanner now bugger off. Ah them were the days. Sorry though we where sharing 😬
