Thank you for the video. I'm in America. Just below Canada. I watched this video a few times for radio removal and center console removal. I'm determined to help you with that yellow/blue cable issue. Your yellow is my blue since I have left hand drive (automatic). I have a 2010 Mazda 3 with the 2.5 gasoline engine n/a. It is the touring model, so it has the silver parts instead of black. Cheers!
I chased up your valuable information due to replacing an air conditioner TX valve. I came to the conclusion that until I removed the dash it was impossible. I had tried all other possible access, but due to the clutch arm and mount, I could maybe get the valve out but doubted I could get it back in. Paul, you've made my day. A Queenslander
Hi Paul. I just finished following this video while removing a dash at a self help wreckers yard. Great video! Very easy to follow and well described. Luckily I have the electronic A/c 😂. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. On a side note, great to hear your are on the better side of your treatments 💪🏻. Well done mate 🙏🏻
Hi Paul ,I put of changing my Mazda 3 dash board for months, after watching your video I removed 2 dash boards and replaced the good one in about 4 to 5 hours , your detailed video made it possible Thanks very much.
Thank you for this video! I was having a difficult time figuring out how to take my glovebox out to get to the Bluetooth module, and you helped out greatly!
Thanks. A few comments. If only changing the dash because of the bulge above the display no need to remove the steering wheel. Just remove the top cover on the column and drop the wheel down. If using a new dash swap all the clips over for the screws. Before installation. You can peel the foam strip's off the old one with patience or order new ones.
I'm working on my 2012 mazda 3 replacing a blower motor and resistor. This video has helped me out tremendously. At 27:38, you ask for help removing the blue wire. Everything is mirrored for me as I'm in America, so my yellow is your blue. I was able to remove it by putting a 90 degree bit attachment with a 1.5 in Philly head on a ratchet screwdriver and slip it up just in front of my accelerator to undo the harness just like the other side. If you are trying to save everything, this prevents having to undo and potentially break the clips holding the blue/yellow wire guides. Hope this helps!
Thanks very much for your help with the bumper bar on my Mazda 3. I live in Queensland but come from France and your explanation was easy for me to understand. Yves
Thanks so much for this video. It was super helpful for me getting the dash out of my car. I will say the job can be done without pulling the steering wheel and stalk but it does make it easier.
@@PaulinPerth Thanks again. Hey just another tip if you are working on a Speed 3 or what you guys call the MPS, the mini dash over the vents contains a speaker and the mic for bluetooth. The plug for the mic and the hazard lights are identical and can easily be switched. If you do this, your hazards will go off continuously and some of your steering wheel controls won't work!
Hey Paul, Awesome video, it’s great people like you take the time out to help others. I have a 2009 Mazda 3 sp25 that I’m looking at changing the dash on as the two side air vents melted on the top from being exposed to the Perth summers as the dash Matt we had did t cover them. Just wondering is there anything specific needed to to in order of airbags so they don’t deploy during dis assembly? Thanks
Hey Paul, I have the warping issue and tried to fix with glue but have done more damage with it running down the back onto the screen. How many parts needs to be removed in order to get the screen and dash out? Jake
Hi. Very helpful video. I have same dash with dog claw marks on big area above the glove box. Is there a way of replacing that big panel, without taking entire dash out.
Yes. That triangular panel is attached to the glovebox. If you follow the part of the video where I remove the glovebox, then that is all you need to do. It's a five minute job. Paul.
Hi Paul, I'm trying to replace the clutch master cylinder. I've removed all 12mm nuts from the pedal support bracket, barr one. Any tips on getting out the top LH nut? After watching this vid, I removed the head unit and ins cluster. Still trying to find a way in for my 1/4" drive extensions. The car is a 2011 BL RHD, there's a few vids for LHD cars but not an Aussie one. John in Melbourne.
Hi John, I've not done that exact job, so I've got no pearl of wisdom. Working in that part of the car is challenging at best. I sometimes find that it is worthwhile removing the driver's seat so that I can better position myself in the footwell. Paul.
@PaulinPerth Paul, with your vid on removing the lower trim and console, I was able to undo all the nuts on the clutch pedal bracket. Clutch MC is now replaced, but as it is made of plastic, I don't have much confidence in its longevity. BTW good tip on removing the handbrake handle, I tapped it off with a Mallet and plastic trim tool, still managed to suffer a small cut. What a nasty design.
Good video, was searching on how to remove the dash from a Mazda 3 because Im suspecting my Ac evaporator is bad, I have just a question, do I need to remove the steering wheel for this,or can I remove the dash to get to that part without removing it?
You can remove the dash without removing the steering wheel. However, removing the steering wheel is quite easy, and it makes the whole job a lot easier. Paul.
Thank you so much for the detailed video. Do you have any idea on how to fix that warping/ warped dash in the entertainment panel? If you can make a video. It will be cery helpful as well.
I'm currently replacing the dashboard of my old Mazda 3 2010 (sticky dashboard) and for the climate control I just unscrewed the passenger side connector like your did. But the other wire I left it connected and been able to push the climate control inside that dashboard panel without needing to unscrew that other connector. It is almost impossible to unscrew the one from the driver side. Now, my only issue is removing the Airbar module from the old dashboard which is quite tricky because of these hooks.
I made that video a long time ago, but as I recall, the outer shroud is held in by two white hooks that can be retracted with a pair of circlip pliers. Once you get the hooks out, the shroud will slide off, and you can safely remove the wire. I hope that helps. Paul.
@@PaulinPerth Thanks, your video has been really helpful. The Airbar box/module ended up being easier to remove than I thought at first. I had disconnected the car battery and left it like that for a week before coming back and disconnecting the passenger airbag connector. Used a simple flat screwdriver to unmount it from the old dashboard hooks. The plastic box ended up being really flexible. Was easier to mount it back on the new dashboard though. Enjoying that new dashboard now. Took me around 8 hours doing this but definitely enjoyed learning new things in the process. Cheers.
I just fixed the dashboard warp very easily. All you have to do is cut a piece of metal that'll fit on the inside and glue it in there and then put a block on the top to hold it or it belongs and the next morning it would be nice and solid and where it's supposed to be
Does anyone knows if to replace the climate sensor for the AC that is located under the steering wheel it is necessary to remove the central console or just pull it out the plastic?
Do you know how to remove just the silver colored elements from the dash? The long strip on the left and the elements around the buttons on the far right.
Yep. LEFT: You remove the glovebox and that silver trim can be removed by removing a couple of screws. RIGHT: I think you are talking about the trim around the DSC buttons. If you slip a trim tool in the crease under the fascia, then it pops up and out. Paul.
I'd start with warm soapy water. If that wasn't enough I would go for Armourall. But please be gentle. These BL dashboards can get brittle, and once they crack the foam just tears. Be gentle. Very gentle.
Hi MyUggy, there is no heater motor as such. What there is is a heater core. The heater core looks and acts much like the radiator does for the engine. The heater core is located underneath the centre of the dashboard. I'm not certain if the dashboard needs to come out to replace the heater core. I have seen the side of it simply by removing the side panels in the footwells. I've currently got very painful ascites, and I'm recently diagnosed with cancer. Later today once it has warmed up a bit and my pain medication has kicked in, I'll go out to my wreck and see if I can give you a more definitive answer. Leave it with me. Paul in Perth.
Hey mate. I contacted a friend of mine that is a mechanic at a Mazda dealership. He has confirmed that the dashboard DOES have to come out to replace the heater core. Paul.
Thank you so much for the detailed video. Do you have any idea on how to fix that warping/ warped dash in the entertainment panel? If you can make a video. It will be cery helpful as well.
Hi Alaa, me being me, I would replace the dash. I have heard of people using glue and clamps to glue down the warped section, but I've never done it myself, and you do end up with a dash that is glued to your entertainment unit, which won't go well if you ever need to disassemble it. I'm sure if you scan some Mazda 3 forums you will find more info on the gluing method. But as I say, for my money, I'd be replacing the dash. Paul.