Black And White Slide Film Processing Tutorial 

I followed your instructions and successfully reversed Fomapan 400 with Ilford Multigrade Developer 1+9 for both first and second developer. Lots of fun. Cheers from Ireland.

IT WORKED!!! Thank you so much for sharing this amazing (and obscure) technique! Will definitely shoot more rolls to experiment this method further. The photos look almost they were shot using wet collodion... Really gorgeous! :D

Well, I've been practicing with a lot of user grade films. I moved up to Rollei infrared with great success. I have a bunch of Kodak HIE and Efke Aura, and have high hopes for the results. Seriously, thank you for this tutorial.

It works! I just processed a roll of 35mm Rollei Retro 400s, developed in Rodinal 1+25 (using the same developer for 1st and 2nd developments). I developed it at 22C, then rinsed with some slightly warmer water to avoid shocking the film with the warm bleach solution. While the slides came out a little dense, they are still scannable and would likely project nicely. I'll cut back the first dev a little next time. Interestingly they seemed less grainy than I recall when scanning the same film but processed as normal B+W negs. I shot some sheet film this weekend which I'm also going to process as transparencies, fingers crossed! Thanks for the video!

Great video. Thanks. 55 minutes at room temperature is just perfect. I use Dokumol as developer. Great results on Fomapan 400 or Fomapan 100. Maybe you lose a little Dmax. In case I'd suggest to have look at EDTA free acid, citric acid and hydrogene carbonate. The lower the temperature the better the chance for the emulsion to stay in place. Best wishes from Hannover Germany.

Thank you for this video. I feel that I should share my experience with hc-110 dilution b. I managed to produce transparencies out of T-Max 400, however, there were some changes in the process. 12 min. first development worked only if film had been exposed at ISO 50-100 otherwise frames were too dark, visible yet too dark. When I was developing for 22 min. film exposed at ISO 200-400 it was ok. I was not very rigid with temperature, usually between 100-110F. I used different bleaching agent, copper sulfate 8-9 min. and then additional 7-8 min. in 2% ammonia as it is what I am using at the moment. I tend to experiment with bleaching at lights open as it does not damage film and this allows me adjusting bleaching time. I hope this hint helps somebody.

This is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks for sharing. Need positive BW to do some anthotypes.

Success! Using a Morse G3, I did the first and second development for 20 minutes and the bleach for 12 minutes. The images are quite “dense” so for the next roll I will reduce the development time to 17 minutes and see how that looks. I’ll keep you posted.

HIE update. This time I used the stereo camera. The closest thing I have to IR filters is number 25 for that one. I got no dramatic "wood' effect but I am very pleased with the outcome. Proper IR filters would have given better results, but series 5 filters aren't easy to come by in that configuration.

I'm itching to try this out on 16mm cine film. One observation is that Joe Van Cleave and Cameradactyl have used a similar process for paper reversal prints, but separate out the acid and bleach baths (they use citric acid rather than white vinegar, and 12% H2O2). Cameradactyl uses up to four cycles of acid/bleach to ensure process completion before moving on to exposure and second developer.

Just tried it with a roll of fomapan r100 (b&w slide film) and I love the results you get without having to buy an expensive kit. Thanks! Might even try this with super 8 or double 8.

I've had really good luck with a permangenate bleach (with sodium bisulphate pool ph decreaser not sulphuric acid because sulphuric acid is hard to buy for me) and metabisulphite clearing bath. Works very well at 20C, doesn't take long and doesn't stain the film a filthy colour. It's also very cheap and you can get everything from local shops.

Thanks for this. I tried this and like most people I have some slightly darker positives. However, it's probably to do with the way the film was shot. Here is the recipe: Ilford Delta 100 shot at 1600 (dumb, I know-nowhere I found even has dev times for negatives, but I didn't realize this until way after I shot the film) using Nikon FM3A. Developed using Paterson single roll tank. 1. Dev in HC110 B, 20 mins @ 20C - agitate 1 min, then 10 secs every minute 2. Rinse in tap water (filtered with Paterson filter), ~30 secs @ 20C 3. Dev in Rodinol 1:50, 20 mins @ 20C - agitate 1 min, then stand 4. Rinse in tap water (filtered with Paterson filter), ~30 secs @ 30C 5. Bleach in 290ml Hydrogen Peroxide 3% + 15ml white vinegar 5% filtered with Paterson filter, 10 mins @ 40-41C 6. Expose to light off reel both sides, ~1 min each side - Looked milky-white with flat details (similar to video) 7. Rinse in tap water (filtered with Paterson filter), ~30 secs @30C 8. Dev in HC110 B from step 1, 6 mins @ ~20C - agitate 1 min, then 10 secs every minute - top back on daylight tank 9. Fix in Ilford Rapid fix, 5 mins @ ~23C (room temp.) 10. Rinse in running tap water, 5 mins @ ~20C Negs came out fogged at top/bottom, very dark (though some shots were at night and this is expected), flat with lots of grays and no whites, and grainy (also expected because of the massive push). Interestingly, some of the spots where there was an actual yellow light IRL the bleaching made those yellow-ish too-kind of cool! But that's not on every shot :( Can see okay on the light table, but without that almost opaque. Might try again without pushing the crap out of the film, and might try with a different film stock (TMAX 400). I would also only use a single developer (HC110). I did two because I wanted the HC110 to develop the whole neg trying to keep highlights intact, and then using rodinol stand to try to pull more out of the shadows while keeping the highlights where there were. This seems to have been okay-ish as the film does not look over/under developed, rather just way underexposed beyond what the film could handle. Would love to hear what you think about all this.

This is awesome. Hope to get to try this at home soon. I only ever shot one rolls of 120 Agfa Scala that my lab developed as reversal and it looks amazing !

Hey man, thank you very much for sharing this, I was searching for a tutorial about how to do a reversal B&W film at home and this is awsome. I just tested today and worked pretty well, I'm really happy with the results. I did it with one roll of Ilford Delta 100 120 film. The only thing I will like to improve next time is get a more clear film, mine came a little bit dark, I don't know if it's because of the roll of film I used or something else. I you know how could I get this better I would appretiate very much! Thank you man, this is awsome!!!!

I processed another roll of Fomapan R100 in the Morse G3, this time developing both times for 17 minutes (HC100) and bleached for 12 minutes. Excellent results, good gradation and uniform density frame to frame. One issue, each frame has a lot of very small white spots that dance around like snow flakes. I recall having to pay a lab an extra fee to remove those same sort of spots. Do you have any insight as to what they are (anti-halation layer?) and how to prevent that from happening? I did not use a stop bath but did wash for 15minutes each time. Thank you for your assistance in all of this.

Nice tutorial. Tried it this morning, using D-76 and some expired TMax 400. Midway through the process, looked good - intermediate step looked pretty much like yours. However, final result was all black. I question the bleaching step - it may not have gone to completion. Will definitely try again.

This is awesome - I didn't realise that it wcould be done with normal B&W film (ideally with a clear base), standard chemistry, and easily bought chemicals. I'm definitely going to give this a go someday.

I did not expect H2O2 and Acetic Acid to work as a bleach. I have been wanting to try this process for years, but Potasium Dichromate is basically unobtanium where i live, and i have not really found bulk Chrome and chrome compounds for scratch making it either. So this is very interesting to me

Thanks for the video! I've just tried your process, but I have a (not so) small problem. The second developer washed the whole emulsion off from the base. I literally saw the washed off emulsion develop as I poured out the developer from the tank. First it looked like milk, and then turned gradually to black. After the bleach the emulsion looked fine, it wasn't washing off when I rinsed it. The film is Orwo NP55, it's a clear base motion picture film, it can be developed as a slide, that's for sure. I have ~100 meters left from the film, so if you have any suggestions, please let me know! Thanks!

Hi there, thanks for great video, I am processing Ektachrome 8mm film as reversal black and white and using D-76 for developer instead of HC110 , and was wondering how long you recommend to leave it in developer for first stage and second stage which is the positive reversal stage? I have seen some people leave it for 12 minutes like you, some for 15 minutes and some people for 7 minutes, could you please advise? Thanks

Firstly I'd like to thank the author for making this video and sharing this exceptional method! I wasa close to giving up on developing slide film when I looked up the price on the Foma developing kit, and even more so after reading the "suspected of causing cancer" warning on the kit's label. I do have a couple of questions regarding the process though: 1. Initial development time. I shoot mostly Fomapan Classic 100 and develope it in 1+10 deluded Fomadon LQN p for 7-8 min with the standard inversion agitation method, by how much should I prolong the first development in this case? I got my hands on a couple of roles of Fomapan R100 and plan on shooting it for slide development. 2. Do i need to wash out between the 1. development and bleach steps? Develop - wash - bleach - wash - reexpose - redevelop - wash - fix -wash? 3. I'd prefer to bleech at room temp, how often should I invert to agitate in the semi stand 55min process? 4. What's the acid content of the vinegar you use in this process?

Mind blown - I have never seen anything like this - Thanks for sharing this process!

This is about the simplest B/W reversal process I’ve come across, *and* I don’t have to spend the big bucks for the Foma reversal kit. I’ll try some of this tonight.

Definitely have to try this out.

This is AWESOME. Also ... I have all of these chemicals and I'm pretty sure I'll have to try this tonight. Subscribed!

You're the Kodachrome guy! Glad I finally found your channel. This video was a great break from reading all the time about B&W reversal, it was nice to finally watch the process. I followed Ricardo's process that you linked to to try and develop standard 8mm film in a Morse G3 tank a bit more than a year ago, but for the two rolls that I did using a peroxide bleach, they came out very brown stained, with small bits of the emulsion having lifted off, then readhered in the same spot. I'm thinking it might have had to do with exhausted chemistry when the film was all wound up, but I'm not sure. With a permanganate bleach its not an issue, though with that it makes the emulsion VERY soft, and it flakes off around the sprocket holes a lot.

In your process are all the done “hot” or only the step involving the hydrogen peroxide , thanks so much and great job on the tutorial ..

Shane you are my hero! I love seeing your alternative process videos! Have you considered covering trichrome b/w photos yet? Back to bleach: I’m curious since I saw in other comments you mentioned you have used this reversal process for developing cine film what method do you use, bucket or a rotary tank, or some diy creation?

Whoa, this is cool.

It failed! After the bleach step, I poured out the bleach (freshly made hydrogen peroxide plus vinegar - it came out a pale pink color after use). Looking at the film, I could see images on it. So, re-exposed and redeveloped. But when I removed the film, it was solid black - no image at all. I assume the bleach didn't remove the silver from the first development like it should have. Any ideas?

very enlightening, cheers.

Thank You, For the help. You have great videos and information.

Well the procedure does work with HIE. It works better if you use hydrogen peroxide with your vinegar instead of water. That was my screw up. I've had a severe cognitive decline with parkinson's. Otherwise, yes. Before you say anything. Yes I do have the instructions taped to the wall right in front of where I do my work. I'm that stupid. From a technical point of view, the images did come out they're just very dark. I tried re- bleaching but I'm not sure the results will change much.

Thank you so much for this cool video, it finally inspired me to start with bw reversal processing! However, I had my first try now (Cliptest, as i feared I could mess the whole film) with 7 slides on a roll agfa APX 100. For some reason the bleach process didn't work which of course resulted in a completely dark fogged film roll after processing. As bleach I used as described in the video: 250ml hydrogen peroxide (conc. 3,5%) + 15ml white vinegar (acidity 6%), heated it up to 40°C (100°F) and used it for 6min with continuous agitation. When i opened the tank to re-exposure the film i realized that the negatives weren't as fogged by the bleach as they should be. Does anybody know what could have gone wrong? I'm thankful for every advice as I hope to succeed with this reversal process in the future. Saluti from Rome!

Unsure of appropriate lamp to reexpose film through window of g3 tank. 500w tungsten at point blank? Unclear help asked please

Thanks for the tutorial much more straight forward than others I've found. I use 12% HP for making paper positives, have you tried using a more concentrated bleach solution for film (perhaps without the vinegar) or is it too strong for it? Thanks

Thanks for the clear tutorial! However my first try turned out so wrong the film was so thick it was almost completely black 😂 and the thickness (literally) didn't seem right. Will try a few more times 😬

Great video! Quick question, can any of these steps be done in the light, so that it is possible to visually inspect the process as you go along? I would believe after exposing the film to light, the first time, no..?

Thank you for sharing! I thought the only way for me will be mailing my film to dr5 and playing 30 dollars shipping.

Nicely done man!

For me, it almost works with Fomapan R100 movie film - But too much dark. For still film Tri-x 400, nothing works; this formula, second trial with 50ml vinagar, 3rd 12min bleach, 4th 18min bleach. Always blackish. I have projector and I can always see some positive, but so dark, not pleasant. Tried other film brands, none works - different times, different temperatures, Allways 3% peroxide... nothing good. Just very very black positives. So I wait 35% peroxide I will dilute to see if it will improve...

Has anyone tried this with ilford FP4 plus shot at 125 ? The reversal works but the negs. Keep coming out very dark.

You said the hydrogen peroxide + vinegar is resuable, how many times can you use it?

Ugh this is amazing! Thanks so much. Have you ever tried this while printing in the darkroom? I'm in the process of working with archival slide film and wondering if I can use this solution to get a positive print instead of potassium permanganate or dichromate bleach.

IT IS REAL!.. I use caffenol and now i have the ecobleach, Do you have any alternative eco-formula for FIXER?

hi! nice video and new suscriber here. i want to start innto reversal world, but wanna use ilford B&W paper, did you know if the proportion are the same?

How many times can I reuse the bleach?

Awesome video I’m super excited to try this method! Is it just constant agitation during each step?

So I tried this out with some Kodak 5234, doing the whole process at a 100.5°F with XTOL 1+3, first development was 13:27 for a 4 stop push at that temp, bleach for 6 minutes with constant agitation, 2 minutes of re-exposure, 8:15 for second developer at box speed, normal fix and wash. After doing the bleach, I pulled the film out of the tank, and it looked just like the film would normally look if it was pushed process four stops (except it was translucent), but it seems like the bleach did hardly anything to the highlights. I finished the rest of the development, and the film came out nearly pitch black, but when held up to the light I could just barely make out a negative image. I feel like the only thing I could have done was extend the bleach process, but I'm not sure how much I would need to extend it by, and if too much bleaching would just completely erase the silver from the film. I got the development time based on my knowledge of Kodak 5234 and XTOL, and that your initial development time for JCH Street Pan 400 would have been a 4 stop push. The only other thing I can really say is that this film is a panchromatic ISO 6 duplication film, and at a 4 stop push would be effectively ISO 100.

Would this process work for Adox Scala 160? I'm a newbie to processing film and have been looking around for guides and tutorials. I'd be looking at Caffenol for devloper (correct?), so then I would just need the two (hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar) other ingredients (and possibly photoflo?)

How about Stop Bath instead of vinegar as the activator? Lately I am using EcoPro, which is citric acid based and discussed here and elsewhere. What are your thoughts on ratios and volumes using acetic acid stop bath or stock glacial acetic acid ? Both are also readily available in most of our darkrooms. As a note, I use stop bath after 2nd developer, not so much to halt development, which has in theory gone to completion, but rather to prevent contamination of my fixer and prolong its use life. Remember the Light!

Hello, thanks for the tutorial, is this something that can be used ti process ektachrome in black and white processing (I have dozens of old E100VS that have a huge color shift) ?

time to try it with caffenol and trichrome to have a fuuly drugstore chems colour slides process

I have a crock pot that I use for C41, so should I put the paterson tank in the crock pot and figure out a constant agitation?

That process may work on movie film. I mean 16mm film on a 110 spool. Or Fomapan R-100 double 8mm.

Rodinal 100:1 semi-stand development for 40 minutes +/- produces contrasty, dense negatives with several Ilford and offbrand emulsions I shoot. Stand-develop for 60 minutes produces an absurdly dense negative. Do you think this might be a good option for the first development? And if so, how long for the post-peroxide second development? Thank you.

I tried it with some HP4+, and it worked great! Pretty much the same process you demonstrated, except I used 9% H202 with not quite twice as much Vinegar. If anything, I would like for the slides to have just slightly more contrast. But, I am not sure what variable to change to accomplish this; or is it even possible? First developer time, maybe? You are doing some amazing and unique work. Thanks!

Hello, how do we make the bleaching standards sufficient for 1 liter for a Russian tank to develop 16, 8 mm film, is there an increase in the standards of peroxide, vinegar, or just increase the water to the standard in the video, so that it becomes 1 liter, waiting for your reply, thanks,

Just tried this on a roll of Ilford Pan 400, whole roll came out black. First development went smoothly. Pushed to 800 so developed for 22min. I mixed my hydrogen peroxide (9%) with equal parts water to get a 4.5% solution then added the vinegar. Bleached film at 32.c (since I couldn't get it up to temp) for 12 minutes and checked it to see that it had not changed one bit. Tried room temp stand process for 55min which started to bleach it so I did an extra half an hour. It barely changed at all in that time. Then reverted back to the process in the video, 38.c for 6 minutes. This got it to a point where it looked like it might work however it was not fully clear. Exposed it, developed it for 6 min then fixed it to find that the roll is mostly black. There is a slight trace of the images however they're unusable due to the fact they have a mottled pattern covering them as well as being extremely dark. Any idea what could have went wrong?

Now THIS is a bleach I can get behind. Would this work for reversal processing Tri-X or Kodachrome Super 8? If so, this would save a lot of money and be much safer to use than other bleaches I’ve researched. It costs more to buy ventilator filters for dichromate bleach than the bleach itself does.

Well, first time through with PlusX reversal 7265(?) Morse G3…. Just completed HC-110 (B) ; EDTA Hyd. Peroxide /Citric Acid Bleach; NA Bisulfite exposure to light**, redevelop with HC110. wash, legacy pro fixer photoflo… All looked great at the halfway point, although final result very faint. Suspicious of insufficient exposure to light. Held entire tank with window open up to led long bulb (sort of a fluorescent replacement) slowly cranked entire strip past the open illuminated window. Results seem very faint. 12min 1st development 9min bleach 6 min 2nd development. Fixer. Wash.

This looks great. Can I use this also with paper instead of film? And would a solution of 9% peroxide would also work? Would love to make paper negatives into posetives this way. Did see some recipe with citric acid, but would be great if vinegar also works. Thanks!

Would this process work with Adox Scala 50 reversal film? Thanks so much for the tutorial!

wow, very cool !

I am trying this!!!

Thanks for posting this process, so cool! I’m a real newbie at film developing but I’ve recently got the 8mm b&w bug again so I tried this with some Fomapan R100 and it WORKED! The images are slightly thin and have a lot of grain but not dark as many people are reporting. I used HC110, H2O2 and vinegar and followed your instructions exactly with the exception of the first development not being at 100 to 105 degrees, it was at 70 degrees (I didn’t see that comment until I read your reply to a post). Any thoughts on the grainy issue? Thanks again.

Okay, my third attempt had the film look right after the bleach process, while re-exposing. Did the second developer, and fix plus wash. Film is REALLY dark. I am guessing the second developer was way to long. First two attempts did not look anything ither than black when pulled out of bleach. I am using HC110 del B, and heating chems for first two phases, but forgot to wash after bleach phase. Where to go from here? Film is Tri X. (Please dont tell me that Tri X is the ONLY film that will not work in this process.)

EPIC! I’ve just loaded up a roll of Pan F. I think it’s time to give this a go. Thanks KSF!

Awesome!

Thanks for the reply. I did go longer with the developer but in thinking about it almost certainly not long enough. I was counting rewind cycles based on a post I saw on using the Morse tank and probably only had 6 or 7 minutes in the developer. Since then, I’ve found other posts that use time, as much as 14 and 20 minutes. I think that is exactly what you are suggesting, how do you feel about developing for say 15 minutes? I will shot another 25’ roll and try again.

The only variable I can figure on is a JObo does constant agitation? I tried again, with 15 minutes of 1st dev, 8 minutes of bleach, then did the second dev. It started to look too dark again, so i rinsed and did another round of bleach, then fix and it washed away all the images. SO, i will likely need to A. Get a Jobo, and B. Have a constant hot water bath. I ran the dev and the bleach under hot water tap in between agitations. But, it seems to not be keeping the temp high enough for long enough? I have a couple more rolls of Tri X before I move on to another experiment. I am so close.

Thanks for the guide!

I've watched both your videos for slide using colour negative film C-41 and B&W with normal B&W chemistry am I correct? My goal here is to do digital scans of a positive image. Am I on the right page? Just trying to step around my scanner and its convoluted programming and input(s). What you are doing is simplicity and why, why haven't we done this before?

Very nice do you know if this works with darkroom paper or other b&w films specially the bleach, I'm gathering stiff to this but the bleach is a 4 step process first is 12% peroxide then citric acid and repeat the peroxide and critric acid once more then develop again , also did you over expose the film or just overdevelop

Really cool process. Im in the UK and have been looking for a way to do this. However, the only other way I have seen requires sulphuric acid which is illegal to buy here in the needed concentrations. Just one question through, when you remove the finished film from the tank, it looks 'brown ish'. Does this fade as the film dries or is there a permeant 'brown' cast to the images created.

I haven’t tried this yet but that was fascinating! Also this is my first ever comment on the RU-vid’s. You’re welcome. 🤓🤣

That bleach off gassed and made the emulsion rough and bumpy. The gas created bubbles that made the roughness. It was not a temperature change that did it. Cold or hot the bleach made Foma bumpy

As always the chemistry wizard at work, fantastic! I have to try this! Only problem is that white vinegar is impossible to get over here. I know, I know, I live in a very strange place! Would Apple Cider Vinegar work for this too? PS: Big applause for managing to talk while your cat assistant was meowing for attention! I would have meowed right back mid sentence!

I have some Metol-Hydroquinone developer and the instructions read to put 2.5 mL of developer into 300 mL of water The film processes in 30 minutes using a semi stand method what will be needed to change so I can do the black and white reversal? Thanks -Uriel.

Hi, i'm using a paterson tank which requires 290ml of liquid to cover the film but I usually round up to 300ml just to be safe. Your ratio of hydrogen peroxide to white vinegar is 250:15ml. Am I right in thinking I should adjust my ratio to 300:18ml (assuming my maths is correct) if thats how much it takes to cover the film? Or should I use 300:15? Also, have you tried this process with higher speed films? If so, does development time need adjusting for denser negatives? I watched your C41 reversal process video where you recommend shooting two stops over, why is this not the case with black and white? (sorry if thats a daft question!) Great video! I have bought some slide mounts and am planning making my own slides this weekend!

After the initial HC110 development, did you rinse or stop? Or did you just pour out the HC110 and move to the bleach? Thank you for sharing this information, I will be trying this soon.

Why do you use vinegar while the other side of the internet uses citric acid? What is the key element for making sure the bleeching will be good? And can I use Ilford Perceptol or microphen? I just got some for free so it's a good sacrificial developer for that process and if so, what dilution to use, the stronget or second dilution like you did with the the hc110?. I'm asking this after two failed attempts at delta 100 4x5 that came out black at the end and from the comments I read here snd video I took of the reexposure it looks like my bleech wasn't strong enough. Btw I used R09 (one shot) at 1+25(dilution a)twice! One batch for the first dev and another fresh one for the second dev, after the first failed attempt I thought that reusing the one shot was the issue… Well, thank you for that wonderful video, I just got my self some 17% hydrogen peroxide from a hydro grow store and waiting for your input and after reading the comments here I think that a follow up video will be good. Thank you.

Cool tutorial! So what about pushing (and pulling) are dev times still the same?

I did, some how does not work, I’m using hc110 with foma400. cam out black, I think I fail at second part, film does not turn to transparent. They turn to normal black and white. I wonder Because hydrogen peroxide and vinegar? Or becasue temperature? I try 12mins on hc110 also try 6mins both still not transparent like you have. Anyway love you channel, keep the good work

Sounds like I should go for 20 minutes with the first developer. What do you think for time for the second development?

Question do you know what would happen if I used stop bath in the process as if I was doing normal black and white chemistry?

I don't know how this channel only has 400 subscribers ive looked through so many of your videos now!! One question about black and white slides in particular, I just tried this and got fairly dark slides. I think i may have underexposed them in camera(old test roll so not certain). Is there a way to push/pull with this process or should i stick on the normal ISO or a little lighter?

Thank you!

Hero status

Hi everyone! Have any of you tried this great and easy method with Rollei RPX 25? If yes what was the outcome?

Is it the same process with the Rodinal? I mean using Rodinal solutions and times and add the hydrogen peroxide like shown here? Thanks

Hello there, Hope you are well. How many percentage was the hydrogen peroxide you used? Thanks.

Hi there! maybe a silly question but i'm gonna ask him anyway.... You can make a reversal with regular b&w film or paper using your developing recipe. But what is the use of the dedicated reversal film? I want to shoot some Kodak Tri-X super 8 film and want to develop it myself. Do I need to follow your recipe for this film also? I'm a bit confused with the negative vs reversal film and the DIY developing. Hope you can help me out here. Thanks

I just tried this with Kodak 2238 @ISO12. Final result was almost pitch black positives. I could see images by shining a tactical flashlight through it but that defeats the whole purpose. I'm wondering if I might have reexposed for too long or maybe the film stock itself is just too slow

Thanks for sharing how to develop black and white reversals using much less scary chemistry. Have you tried this process with Kentmere 400 or Ilford PAN100 film? I've tried both of them and the bleach process didn't went well. I've tried 20C overnight, 38C 8 minutes, 48C 8 minutes and 60C 8.5 minutes, and all of them were unsuccessful, the images were still negative when they came out the bleach.

Where did you get the projector in this video? I am looking for something to project half frame filmstrips. If I can get a projector, then I would like to try your process for my own filmstrips.

incredible !!! I tried the one that you did in the other video 120mm Expired Ektachrome 100 iso , exposed at 64 iso ( 16 years ) with Rodinal 1/25 and Double Time Blix ( 12 min ) as you said and the results were amazing .🙌🏻🙌🏻 Thank You 😊. Im trying this week to do it with FP4+. Rodinal 1/25 . I didn't find here in Spain HP liquid at 3% at my local drugstore they only sale the one in gel that you use for discolor the hair , the only one I found is the one that they sell in the Pharmacy to cure wounds and is 6% . But the Pharmacist told me if I mix the 250ml of HP at 6% with 250ml of distilled water I will get 500ml of 3% HP. The Question is if a have 500ml I will have to put 30ml of white vinegar no ? . ANd Another Question the whole process will have to be at 38C ?- Summary of the Process just to double check : 1#Develop it Rodinal 1/25 - 12 mins _ @ 38ºC ( I don't have HC110 and because it worked in the E6 process I will use this one) _Wash 2# ( H2O2 3% 500ml + 30ml white Vinegar ( cooking vinegar made from white wine 6%. acid ) 6 mins _ @ 38ºC 3# Expose The Film both sides 2 or 3 times . Put it back in the Spiral 4# Use the same developer I used of the #1 ( I don't do a new one no? even if I use Rodinal no ?) 6 min_ @38ºC ? _ ?¿ or 9 mins @20ºC as is marked in The Massive Dev Chart for Rodinal 1/25 with FP4+ . 5# Fixer 5-7 min normal temperature 20ºC 6#Wash and dry . Thanks in advance 🙌🏻🙌🏻 dani_wallwork .

Hey, first of all thank you for the awesome process! Tried it today and only had an issue, the film was reticulated (maybe because of the bleach being hot). I was thinking, maybe we could use longer bleaching times instead of a hot bleaching bath?

This is awesome, I really want to try it. Do you think it is possible to do with caffenol? Just today I developed a roll of ektachrome using caffenol as first developer (right after watching your video on e6 development using hc & c41!) Thanks!