I am a Finn living in Sweden and I like your channel with so much great information about black powder guns. I bought an original Remington 44 and i have been to the shooting range twice this summer. In Sweden we have quite tough laws against guns, but weapons made before 1895 that is black powder is allowed, but somehow the powder and caps is getting harder to get it seems. I have bought Pyrodex as you show in this video, but really want real black powder. Ubertis and Pedersolis is not allowed by the law because they are new, but an original black powder is allowed, very strange gun laws here in Sweden. I love to shoot with a black powder revolver, very awesome! Do you ship stuff to Sweden? So many things I need for my Remington that you show in this video. Keep up the good work.
@@GunsOfTheWest Hello sir, Do you have an idea why caps are not in stock on store shelves in last 4 yrs ?? For these are for antique firearms and small cannons,, all for weekend warriors for the most part. Guys just out having a little fun... No real harm going on with these antique firearms these days...Nobody would ever use these against a modern Army.. So what do you think is going on.. And yes real BLACK POWDER is out there to purchase... Maybe Jesus will come soon and we won't have to worry about such things anymore... God bless you and may God watch over you and your family
I am trying to catch up to all of your videos. I began shooting single-shot percussion pistols a while back and finally took the leap to percussion revolvers beginning with a Uberti 1851 Colt Navy. I now have a (almost) complete set of (key) percussion revolvers: the Colt Paterson being the last want of the series. I am slowly going through each revolver to update the cones. The Uberti 1858 Remington conversion revolver was really what made me to decide to explore the percussion revolver world. I am more at home with these revolvers than with many of my more modern revolvers and pistols. Great content, by the way!
One minor point, most felt wads contaminate the powder charge. Only use the wads if your going to shoot immediately. If loading for hunting where the shot could be tomorrow or the next day, lube over the ball.
I would think that most lubes would melt (at least a bit) & foul the powder if any heat (from whatever) is involved - but understand that others may have no choice, living/shooting/hunting where it's usually very warm to hot. I'm trying to lube the round ball with some Ballistol, and then seat it in the cylinder and see what outcome that gives with the powder charge after a few days/weeks.
Lube type, weather where you reside and size of ball or conical all factor into that as well. Here in Texas summer, bore butter will melt in the cylinder, run past the ball or conical seeping into powder and dampen it. Try using a firm lube like lamb tallow/beeswax, swaging down a projectile slightly larger than what it uses from factory (a .44 using .451 can do better with .454). I prefer dry wads that I can lube slightly on the barrel side myself so I can store it or shoot in summer and my .44-.45 uses .457 projectiles which cut a good size lead ring, leaving a tight seal that guards against wad leaking into powder. It can be abit of a science to get them more reliable. I recommend Winchester and Remington #10 or #11 caps over CCI and this setup serves me best.
When I load my 45 Colt cartridges with Goex fffg black powder I use a wonder wad and I also use an over the powder card that I punch out to keep it from contaminating the powder. I also been loading with bh209 and I don't use any wads because the bh209 doesn't faul up a revolver like real black powder. Good video.
Thank you for the Slixprings reference. I have had problems over the years with soft nipple wrenches bending and becoming useless. That or improperly sized to fit into the recesses on the cylinder.
I've had the whole pandemic to get hooked in by watching probably hundreds of hours of videos about percussion revolvers. I even got to renew my license, that I let expire a decade ago (it lasts 5 years here in Italy) when I stopped doing target shooting competitions. I was quite sure about the Remington 1858 NMA, but lately I've grown fond of the '51 Army, especially the London model. I love octagonal barrels and I like the idea of a small, agreeable yet accurate and less expensive caliber like the .36, being used to a .22 carbine (50 meters / 55 yards) and a 4,5 mm Olympic air rifle (10 meters / 11 yards). A few days ago my pesky girlfriend told me she likes the 1861 better. Now I can't decide anymore which one I should get: the 1851 or the 1861?
I personally prefer my 44 Dragoons over my 36 Paterson and Navy. I even like them better than my 44 Walker or Army. The big frames are less prone to cap jams and hold 50 gains of powder for big booms.
Just received my GOTW paper cartridge kit… thank you! I will be first time rolling ball paper cartridges in .36 this weekend… I just received a (hard to find nowadays) Pietta 1861 Navy… gave it a good initial cleaning like in your how-to videos. I used soapy water to clean and the REM Oil after because Ballistol is so difficult to find here in Northern California. A bit of news, I found one store 45 minutes drive from where I’m at that carried percussion caps in CCI #11 only, I was so happy finally there is supply… when I got to the store, limit was 2 100ct tins! GOEX fffg no can find! Thank You Justin for turning me on to BP revolvers. I’ve got the 1851 and 1861, just need a side by side coach, and a lever action then next is to join up with the local SASS clubs. 🤗
I am from Italy just bought my first cap and ball 1860 army uberti and I love it I hope to find the powder and caps to try it soon! I will follow your channel a lot as I did even before buying it.
I just bought my first cap and ball revolver this week, an 1858 new model army sherrif. First thing I learned was I can't buy percussion caps. Bought a percussion cap making kit and some primeall and am looking into the trick where you are able to use small pistol primers by putting tubing around the nipples.
Having been into BP revolvers for over ten years I can't say there is anything I disagree with here. About the only thing I'd add is that you're GOING to want a capper eventually so I'd put it in the must-have category. The Ted Cash snail capper works fantastic.
Unfortunately for me, it's next to impossible to find even black powder supplies without going to a licensed dealer. I can't even order powder or caps online, much less a black powder revolver. The round balls are the only thing I can get online nowadays.
@Number 1 Western Fan It's the strict gun laws that went into effect following Sandy Hook. My Governor of the time made it illegal to buy so much as a black powder revolver online, or buy them out of state and bring them across state lines. Thanks a lot for ruining it for me, kid whose name I don't remember. Sandy Hook ruined everything.
I took the plunge and ordered one of your 36 caliber kits. I can't wait to start making cartridges. Had to go to the Pyrodex though, no real BP anywhere. I did find myself a 36 Griswold & Gunnison Pistol as well!
Thank you, your video was very informative. I'm excited to soon be embarking on my cap-n-ball journey, looking to purchase my all-time favorite, the 1858 Remington. Liked, subscribed and ambitiously following!
I’ve actually done a couple already. Here are the links: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ryziyuC1WSM.htmlsi=1kfDQ0FYMl6tU8eW ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dn9xjnQaff8.htmlsi=X8Tzg8DO1VSHeZXr Thanks for watching!
Couldn't find actual perc. caps so i had to get one of those kits to make them out of soda cans. Time consuming and wont work well with cappers, but definitely better than nothing
I still have a couple cans of DuPont FFF black powder. I have a can of superfine black rifle powder. A purple can and a blue can I don’t use them i have then as collectables
You mentioned softer screws, can you replace them with better screws? And if so, where to get?? Thank you and am loving your vids due to getting back into C n P.
Is it possible to use airgun slugs? They’re a lot more accessible to me and they seem to be the same as the conical bullets marketed for bp guns. I was also wondering if using a „lube groove“ is sufficient to lubricate the round instead of using a wad or putting lube on the bullet after loading.
Thank you for this video. I am new to blackpowder and I am learning quite a bit from your channel. I do have one question and I'm sorry if it seems silly. Can I use paper cartridges in a Pietta 1851 44 cal. Sheriff's model (4.75 barrel)? This shorter barrel pistol is easier for me to handle but I've only seen people using cartridges on a full size 7.5 barrel. Any advice would be much appreciated and thank you for all your informative videos. 🙏
Hi, Linda! The paper cartridges will work as well in that gun as in the ones with longer barrels. Here’s the link to my website where paper cartridge kits are available: gunsoftheweststore.com Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to use airgun ammo instead of the stuff marketed towards bp guns? For me, airgun ammo is much easier to get and a lot of it seems to be identical to the bp conical bullets.
I was told by one of my dealers, the only one that sells real blackpowder, that Goex had either gone out of business or the company that owned Goex had discontinued it. I don’t. Recall which. Is this incorrect?
Hey Dustin Will My 36 Cal Revolver take .375'' Round balls? Im only wondering because I put a .375'' round ball at the Top of the Barrel And it would not fall down the Barrel.
I would only go with the 44 caliber. If you live in a restrictive state. Or you made a mistake in your past and all you can own is. Blackpowder guns and God forbid you how to use it for self defense. The 36 caliber would Make your attacker very angry.
Tell that to Wild Bill Hickock. There's more than a few men that fell to his .36. So your info is skewed. A soft lead ball moving at over 800fps will do the job...
@@bobjim1us1 But did they die instantly many of them died? A. Couple days later from infection? There was one case I read that where the guy was shot and was able to continue fighting for several minutes before he died.
@brettduffy1992 a soft lead ball traveling near 850fps will obturate. Or, flatten out some. As it moves through you, breaking bone if it encounters it. Even the "little" .36 as you deem it, will pass through you at around .40 caliber. Knock down power is a myth. Created by Hollywood. Nobody gets "blown off their feet". After being struck, a man simply drops. They may fall backwards, forwards, or even collapse in a heap sideways. All bullets depend on hitting something important. Major blood vessels, important organs, etc, for their lethal effect. If a bullet doesn't hit anything important, it's just a bleeding hole. I've seen deer hit in the heart with a 12 gage slug. That's a one ounce chunk of lead of roughly .72 caliber run nearly 100 yards with their heart reduced to pulp. True Story. Adrenaline is a hell of a thing sir. Even in humans. It's more a case by case thing. What everyone can tolerate is different. Caliber plays a small role. It's shot placement over everything else. If a human takes a .36 to the boiler room. I'd say the fight will leave that human quiet quickly. Wild Bill lived to be older than he should have carrying such a "diminutive" caliber. Jack McCall ended Wild Bill's time on earth, with a shot to his head, from behind. Why from behind, Wild Bill only had a .36 on him. Not when he died however. Even Jessie James preferred his 51' Navy Colt in .36 caliber. It's not caliber, it's shot placement that matters most. Don't get caught up in the "knock down" power argument. There is zero physics to support the argument. Men survive hits from high powered rifles. With rounds that make even a "mighty" .44 look anemic. Wild Bill was famous for saying, if forced to shoot, don't rush. Take your time. I've seen many a man flub a shot because he was too fast. In layman's terms, be sure of your shot placement.
Awesome video. Why does Google warn about the use of smokeless powders? It says they're extremely dangerous to use in a black powder revolver. TY much friend.
Google is right about that. None of the powders in this video are smokeless. These are black powder and black powder substitutes. Smokeless powder has a very different pressure curve and would be extremely dangerous in these guns. The only safe way to use smokeless is to use a conversion cylinder for metallic cartridges and, even then, the loads need to be relatively light. Thanks for watching!
@@andrewgates8158 Thank you. I'm glad that another company was able to step up to the plate and keep our only domestic black powder brand going. That really makes my day!
i used magnum #11 with ffg in a pistol .44....blanks load...seemed really weak....maybe over primed? 20 grains....... I put it in a cardboard box and pull the sound was not loud....
The price gouging in this industry is shocking. Been shooting black powder since 10 yr old. At almost 60 now, I cannot understand how any working man could afford some of these pistols. Just like almost every industry, GREED rules the day ! Manufacturing costs are much lower with modern CNC machines. Yet, industry marketing and pricing to exclude working class and court the Boomer retirement income class.
I have your kit for loading 36 caliber it's a little hard it can be done because I've done it but the balls are a little harder than the conical bullets to prepare. and I have some of your lube and that's some pretty good stuff although I have made my own now using beeswax and Lambs tallow but I did have to experiment because some of the instructions online well most of the instructions online are different so I had to make what works for me. as far as the wads go I never could get a wad in straight it is so difficult, at least for me but I still try I will use them up but I won't use anymore I like the method of putting the wax over the top of the cylinders. it's a lot less likely of a chain fire and I do keep an eye on the caps because there's a chance of chain fire back there. anyway thanks for the video, personally I prefer Swiss and there's another one that starts with s but my phone won't pronounce it right shoots in, that's what it prints when I say it on my phone because I speak my comments. anyway thanks for the video and don't forget and of course I know you know this, keep ye powder dry
Hey BP shooters, 1st timer here getting into it. I have a question, if any of y'all can answer? So on my Pietta 1851(snub), I was putting CCI 11 caps on the nipples to see how they would fit. So I put one on and lowered the hammer onto the nipple with cap on it, now when this happens I can't cock back the hammer again. Unless I try to do it once or twice and I hear a click and now I can pull the hammer back again. Does this happen because the hammer can't properly finish seating when there's a cap installed there, so it stays locked until it properly sits and I hear the click and is this why it's better to leave it on an empty cylinder for reliability also? The hammer will strike the cap fine, it just can't rest on it without getting locked up when you pull back.
It took me a minute to figure out but I think i recreated the problem on my Remington new model army (also a Pietta) what i believe is happening is as the hammer passes the halfcock notch the hand moves to it's next notch ready to index the cylinder also at this point the cylinder stop locks in place so if the hammer doesn't come all the way down the cylinder stop stays put so when you try and pull the hammer back again it's trying to turn the locked cylinder (i hope that makes sense) as for what would cause that I'm not really sure maybe the caps don't fit right and are preventing the hammer from going far enough or possibly your action parts are installed incorrectly and that's causing weird problems other than that I'd probably try to explain the problem to a gunsmith. Really hope you get it fixed man happy shooting
@@Grain_side_carving Thanks for your time and advice ! I do believe you're right, the 11 caps make the hammer not properly seat on the snub nose. I'll have to try #10
How long can I keep the gunpowder loaded in the revolver without using it? I read a comment on another site from someone who said that it only lasted one day inside the barrel of the revolver...
Genuine black powder lasts for years, even decades. The black powder substitutes may last a year or two. Whomever complained about the powder being only good for a day after it's loaded into a revolver probably included a prelubricated wad and the lube in the wad ruined the powder after a day passed.
I can’t find percussion caps #10 I’m in Tx. I will buy as many as possible. If someone could help me out ….!!🙏🏼. I just got my first black powder ever. And it’s just a paper weight. 1851 marshal. Pietta
Im trying to give you my email but youtube just keeps removing my comment.. fck this Not sure how to contact you i have alot of caps. @yohoo If you can figure this out. Its candymancangt and the last word after caps you know which one that is. Sorry so crytpic but im trying to get around this youtube algorithm to remove my comment
Thank you Dustin I enjoyed the video and I wished I had this before I bought mine I love mine to death it is a fully engraved model not only the cylinder but the frame and the barrel and the back strap but it is a brass frame so I've cut the load down to 12 grains so I don't do damage and it is very accurate with 12 at 20 yards felt wads and your Lube over the ball slick shot nipples using number 11 CCI caps thank you. Joe security
Nice one Dustin. I have been using black powder firearms since the mid seventies here in the UK, a Uberti Colt Walker and a Parker Hale 1853 3 Band Enfield. (I have one of your paper cartridge kits for the Colt) And I still found this video relevant and interesting.
@@GunsOfTheWest Dustin, would u recommend wearing some kind of gloves when handlng lead bullets? I have had black stain from touching them and its kind hard to wash off plus i hear can expose to cancer
@@CountryCampers Hello Jim, yes. When casting your own lead bullets, use heavy work gloves that have long cuffs. When handling lead bullets to make paper cartridges for example, use those thin close fitting gloves used by vehicle technicians etc. Good luck.
One thing I’ve experienced, mainly from the younger RSO’s. Let’s just say,their exposure to cap and ball revolvers can be very limited. I had a twenty something that basically freaked out on me and called for a range safety stop because I was loading my pistol. I explained that it was a black powder pistol. He told me he wasn’t comfortable with the way I was handling my firearm. Luckily there was an older RSO at the rifle side of the range that explained to him the loading process. (The half cock hammer was the point of confusion for our young man). I have since started using a loading block at public ranges. I still have to explain the process, and demonstrate the half cock position from time to time. Mainly if it’s a new RSO.
I’m into cowboy mounted shooting. Back during the primer shortage I started using cap and ball revolvers whilst on horseback during my practice sessions. They work good for practice but not ideal like a colt single action army. 1st the caps tend to come out when you cock and fall between the hammer and cylinder which is problematic. I made my own caps with tin cans by the way which is why that happened a lot because caps were also in short supply.
That's encouraging, but I prefer the Remingtons anyway. They're better and more strongly built (which means in the case of an unintended KABOOM you'll likely still have all your fingers afterwards) 😁
I purchased many cans FF Goex back in the 80s here and there in the metal cans and still have around 7 pounds in the old metal cans. Back then it was 7 bucks a pound.
Love your videos! I have my first muzzle loaders, a cva wolf rifle, traditions flintlock (cant find 4f to use in pan) and a Pietta .44 revolver which is the only one i have hot so far. Keep up the good work!
Im having alot of trouble finding all the supplies. And all i can find for caps are tins if 1000 for $100. The paper cartridges are super expensive too. I have a 1858 with the brass frame.
Hi, I load 20 grains in my Remington 1858 with a brass frame and 12" barrel. It is a .44 cal though. You might want to go with 15 grains in a .36 cal. My brass frame is also a Pietta and so far no issues with 20 grains and a standard round ball. But, brass is soft so don't try to push things to the max. The owner's manual has a chart that tells suggested loads in both black powder and pyrodex. They are light loads but very safe.
Guy, if you are shooting your cap and ball revolvers, just where are you getting your caps? I haven't been able to buy them in over 2 years locally or online. Do you have a secret source? Maybe I should try making my own!
I recommend if you are going to get heavy to C&B revolvers, get multiple cylinders and a bench top loader. I like to have 4 extra per revolver. This was a common practice during the uncivil war amongst mounted soldiers, as it was easier and faster to swap cylinders, especially when mounted. Upgrade the nipples for sure, and at least give conical balls a try as well (I use them exclusively). Great video! Especially for those just getting started with C&B revolver shooting!!!
Would love to get a Cap an Ball revolver like Cullen Bohannon used in Hell on Wheels. I do have an old original percussion cap and .50 ball Enfield carbine, great rifle for big game, small game? Not so much
I usually use black powder - but I have burned 2 pounds of triple 7 in my Pietta brass framed 1851 with no sign whatsoever of frame stretching, the gun is as tight as it was when I purchased it 18 years ago. I think frame stretching for the most part is a problem that was fixed a long time ago.
I always use your paper cartridge kit. It was so fun to bring it into the local shop with finshed cartridges including ratshot loads I made by putting 8 shot in a 44 caliber bullet mold and poured in hot candle wax.
@@samspencer582 ratshot loads is ammo that instead of one large bullet you use lots of tiny lead shot held together in either a capsule or in mu case wax
Outstanding video ! Just about everything I needed to know about my black powder gun. By the way, l got a question for you regarding the 1858 pietta New Army Target .44 cal. and the "Taylor's n Company conversion cylinder". Will the Winchester .45 long colt 255 gr round nose flat tip ammo work with that conversion cylinder ??? Thank you.
Have you ever made a video on hunting with cap and ball pistols? I was considering buying a replica 1858 Remington (44 cal) steel receiver. I would assume they're over 400 foot pounds at 50yds for white tails, but that would be the minimum for my state. I don't mind sitting and doing the math, but I love to hear from experienced shooters and their thoughts.
I own a flintlock pistol and a couple of percussion rifles, the caps are kind of a rare find in my state. I would like to find a working matchlock and wheellock, but something tells me I may have better luck finding a revolver.
Try Access Heritage for a matchlock, but you will have to drill your own touch hole. Wheellocks are not to be found, outside of multi tens of thousands of dollar originals. Never heard of a repro.
@@bedeodempsey5007 I'll probably have to win the lottery or learn gunsmithing if I want the wheel lock. I looked up Access Heritage and the matchlock is surprisingly affordable.
@@wolfman1662 I have fired my Bess several times with no problem. Only issue was not enough spark to ignite the pan. Could be my flints or the 2f, rather than 4f, powder. Great price though, at about half a Pedersoli.
I use a loading stand for my 1858 Remington revolvers and their extra cylinders. I have three of the revolvers and an extra cylinder for each so when all loaded I have 36 rounds ready to go. The loading stand is great for a Remington but not as practical for my 1847 Walker since it requires I disassemble the Walker. That is why I love the old Remington revolvers so much. Just buy a bunch of extra cylinders and load them up at home then you can shoot all day at the range without having to reload there.
