It's amazing to think that Black tie was invented as a "casual" evening wear. A step down from White tie at dinner that at first was scoffed at for being far too casual.
What do you mean invented as? It still is. *I sip my Champagne whilst in full White Tie surrounded by Valets* Just to be clear, I'm joking but agree that it does now seem amazing that that was once the case.
because white tie is ridiculously uncomfortable especially if you're living in a Mediterranean or sub-tropical or worse tropical or much worse in a desert climate. It just looks completely out of place and weird.
Best thing anyone ever told me was that back tie allows you to relax. No worries about over or under-dressing. No worries about the latest fashions. Just enjoy the conversation and the dinner.
Well, I would say that here in Europe, one important rule is that a black tie should not see the daylight. In other words, it is a suit you don for events in the late afternoon or night. Otherwise, you seem to forget that double breasted jackets are very elegant and often chosen by the Prince of Wales, and his elder son. My tuxedo is also double breasted with peak lapels.
I’ve watched several of your videos. Read many of the comments. I am a stranger, in every way, here, but I am grateful for the opportunity to share a glimpse at just some of the knowledge you possess. I am intrigued by our live’s differences. I admire your excellent dedication to the refined traditions in your world. Thank you, Mr. Allison.
Thank you so much for sharing such knowledge Sir! I feel ashamed of having dressed up so badly for previous black tie events but I now know that the next time I'm going to a black tie event, I'll be one of the most confident persons there.
Full marks Mr. Allison, not many people know that one doesn’t wear a watch with black tie, also you caught the fact that the jacket should not have side vents. Regarding the shoes, traditionally they should be in patent leather, although a mirror shine is also acceptable. You are a man of knowledge
For a Texas car dealer who grew up on a dirt farm, he didn't do that bad for himself! But I credit my grandmother for more of my sense of quality. She was (is) a rare bird.
That is exactly what I think of whenever Kirby narrates how he bought that relatively expensive pair of shoes during his college days. (I'm like either his parents or his g.parents were aristocrats)
My father’s aunt was a perfectionist, so that probably explains why I too follow formal dress codes well and always go out with a tucked collared shirt
Would love an update to this video, but maybe Kirby going through some Do's and Don’t's, and maybe a top five celebrity black tie mistakes in pop culture. I'm certain he has some cases in mind....
Almost ashamed to admit that it took 38 years before i attendded my first proper black tie event last year. Cue much panicking, when i remembered this video. Pulled my black cap toe oxfords from the closet, gave them a mirror polish with some Saphir polish, a good close wet shave and put on my tuxedo.
Many people say absolutely no vents on the jacket. But I find that many gentlemen sporting a central vent on a jacket with shawl lapels looking effortlessly great. Is that a rule that one can break?
Though not as common you left out the option of the double breasted tuxedo. (witch a waist covering is not required as you never undo a double breasted jacket, even when seated.)
The number one rule in black tie is to avoid ostentation. As a result black tie is actually a great leveller. Understated, easy elegance is the aim, and largely due to the degree of uniformity in dress the devil is as much in the small details as the obvious. Keep all accessories simple, logo-free, discreet and timeless. The only bits of flesh on display should be your hands and face, so remember to make those look as well-tended as the rest of you! Lastly, if this is your first black-tie event, put the kit on in advance (if possible) and get used to yourself in it - feeling at ease will help your bearing and allow you to enjoy the whole occasion more.
I deffo agree on most of this...with the exception of the Cummerbund, there’s no need to wear one and actually on many men it breaks up the line of the suit and fills out their waist more, thus achieving the opposite of what you want a well cut suit to achieve. Black tie looks best minimalist however these days black tie can be a bit more relaxed depending on the event, you can wear a dark coloured smoking jacket and look extremely well turned out, and certainly not out of place at 90% of black tie events. White tie...ok there’s no wiggle room, but black tie I think it’s good to see some slight variations on it being only black or midnight blue.
I take those cummerbunds were contrasting coloured cummerbunds. A black cummerbund performs the opposite, enlongating the body by lengthening the legline, and shortening the torso. In turn, this gives the impression of height
Interesting to know you have several black tie events during your college time. In my country (tropical), that's not the typical case when you're in the university/college. For instance, I am almost 30 years old and I haven't been required to attend to a black tie event (optional or mandatory) so far. The most formal dress code you are bound to comply with, during that time or even after that, is the "business attire" e.g. the graduation, etc. I guess all or most of the men in those events you attended were required to wear a tuxedo, I guess it was not an optional matter. So, in my case, is less probable to wear it, even if oneself is eager to be a little bit "overdressed" and tuxedo is not common in middle class important events (except, sometimes, a groom in his wedding). In the so-called high society it can be more usual in some opportunities. Regards. Nice video/information.
I have a Black-Tie event this weekend but I don't have anything appropriate to wear yet, I need to buy the whole package since I don't feel comfortable renting a tux, any ideas about how much it will cost me to get everything needed ?
Hey, Kirby great video! This really helped me, but I was wondering about the rules for a Double Breasted suit, would you still need a cumberbund or waistcoat?
Kirby must the shirt studs match with the cufflinks? I lost my mother of pearl (MOP) shirt studs and have got new ones but they do not match with the MOP cufflinks. The cufflinks have a different design to the new shirt studs I bought
They don't have to match as long as it doesn't look like you are trying to match. I have several pair of vintage cuff links that I have from my father / grandfather and great grandfather, that are impossible to match so I don't try. Keep the shirt studs simple. I use to wear a uniform to black tie, which was always cool in a room of civilians, but in a room full of military personnel, it was important to learn how to differentiate when everyone looked exactly the same. Cuff links were one of the easiest ways.
@@rogerhuston8287 Sorry to bother you, I was just wondering which uniform? I have just been thinking for some time a mess uniform would look good. Of course, I'd never wear a uniform myself to Black Tie as I have no connection to one, but if I could I certainly would.
"A splash of color does not make you look debonair, it makes you look uninformed." I disagree, sir. A nice boutonniere brings in some color and makes you stand out and yet remain elegant. A red or white carnation is very classic and has often been worn to black tie events. And also, depending on the black tie event, one can become creative with your dinner jacket. Of course there's the classic ecru jacket with a shawl collar, but darkly colored velvet dinner jackets aren't uncommon, particularly burgundy double-breasted ones. And if it's for a holiday/festive event, one could wear a silk velvet bow tie in a dark green or red. And when it comes to shirts, white stiff/pique front shirts are the most formal, yes, but a good tuxedo pleated shirt is also acceptable. I'm honestly astonished you are so hard and fast with your one way to wear a tuxedo!
Thank you for the great advice! Is the color of the scarf merely preferential or is there a rule? Also, could you elaborate a bit on gloves and proper outer coat for winter month events. Thank you!!
I have a holiday party for a business group it says black tie encouraged but not required. Curious your thoughts. Also, it’s important to note that this is a group of entrepreneurs, and unfortunately, while some will be in full black tie, others will show up in T-shirts and hats. This has me wondering if I should do something that’s respectful to black tie, but tone down a bit? Like maybeall black tie with a green and black tuxedo jacket?
I’ll be wearing black tie for my wedding, but I don’t know if I should have a midnight blue or a black one made. I think the blue is very good looking, but the black is more classic and versatile
I have a question about this video Kirby, for the black tie jacket cuff, I saw lots of them have 4 buttons in a row, but I also saw some of the jacket cuff only has one button, which one is most tradition if that is what separate them, or which one fit in which lapel sort of things. I am so confused. Thank you
I tend to see dinner jackets with fewer cuff buttons than lounge suits. My preference is 3 buttons. They are often closed h covered in the same material as the lapel facings.
Hello, I am currently in college and will graduate in (hopefully) three years. At my commencement, I hope to wear a Tuxedo and follow all of the traditions (peaked lapel or shawl collar, studded shirt, pants with galon, etc.). However, we are allowed to get different stoles (long, thin pieces of fabric worn over the shoulders and draping down to torso) bases on our department, year, and other factors. So my question is do you think that I would be able to do so? I know that black tie is not really the place to add a bunch of color (for reference, the stoles I would wear are blue+gold and green+white), but I think that they could be done tastefully and my college graduation will be something that personally warrants the use of black tie. Thank you
@ KIRBY ALLSION any preference or recommendation when wearing pleated vs plain front shirt and wing collar vs laydown or spread collar? Which combo works best?
What is the typical width of a peaked lapel on the jacket? I'm looking to have a custom tux made and I'm wondering what lapel width I should go with. Is 3" too slim? 4" too wide? Thanks.
Kirby, great video. I have a pair of black wholecuts as my shoes. I was just wondering, where do you purchase silk shoelaces? I haven't been able to find any here in the UK
I am looking to have a bespoke dinner jacket made by either Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole or Huntsman on Savile Row. I am torn between a peak lapel or a shawl lapel design. My question is this, is there a difference in the design and finish of the trousers with either the peak or shawl lapel design, or is it acceptable to have two jackets made (one peak and one shawl lapel) with one pair of trousers to be used with either jacket?
The trousers are the same for both peak lapel and shawl lapel dinner suits. Waistcoats are more typical for peak lapel/ in the UK in general, cummerbunds are more typical with shawl lapels. Double breasted doesn’t really require either since you’re buttoned up. Rather than a peak and shawl lapel dinner jacket, perhaps an odd dinner jacket as an additional option. With the tailors you mentioned be prepared for sticker shock, you’re looking at quite an expense.
It’s not as formal as no vents. If you chose to have vents make sure to choose double vents not a single vent . The single vent is a equestrian feature as others mentioned, it’s a sporting affectation and not appropriate for evening wear.
Thank you, good tips. Could you make a video where you explain what is what? Like each word you said right now with picture next to it? It would make everything more clear. like "stud" for example, I looked on internet and it shows too many pictures or other things, so it's not clear what it is exactly. Thank you again, great video :)
You don’t really need a waistcoat or cummerbund with a double breasted dinner jacket since they are meant to be kept buttoned at all times. If you do want to have a waist covering a waistcoat is the right choice to pair with a double breasted jacket. Make sure sure the waistcoat is a dinner one, low front with lapels.
I think it must have slipped his mind, most people accept odd diner jackets; I don't know if that is the case in Gentleman's Clubs though. Just adding this in a couple of seconds later, perhaps it's because you can go wrong a lot more easily if you choose the wrong dinner jacket so maybe he just wanted to keep it simple. Lots of dinner jackets on the market aren't really fit for purpose and this could mislead and confuse people that don't know what to look for, leaving them out will stop peoples faux pas.
Hi Kirby, I recently acquired a waistcoat that has peaked lapels. The lapels themselves are tacked on to the body of the waistcoat by a single stich on both the upper lapel and the lower lapel. Is this just tac stitching that someone forgot to remove?
Thk u so much for this informative piece. I have a black tie event and I dnt have a black shoe and my budget won't accommodate any buying but I have a midnight blue brogue shoe. Can I rock it?
A tuxedo is a US centric term for a black tie dinner suit where the jacket and trousers are made of the same matching cloth. A dinner jacket is a black tie jacket which is worn with odd formal trousers such as your tuxedo trousers. A dinner jacket complements the trousers as opposed to matching them. The form and fittings of a dinner jacket is similar to a dinner suit jacket generally with some exceptions.
You shouldn't change your bow tie's colour, its called black tie for a reason, understandable question though it would perhaps look nice but it just isn't right.
What if I reverse the colors of my tuxedo? jacket, dress pants, waistcoat, and bowtie all in ivory color matched with inner pleated shirt, pocket square, and patented leather shoes all in black. of course I will wear this at a formal lunch party instead of dinner.
That’s not really appropriate. Black tie is intended as evening wear. For a formal luncheon a lounge suit (business suit), a stroller suit, or morning suit are three choices in ascending order of formality
Black, midnight blue or even a color such as crimson or purple are all options socks are an area where you can be a bit colorful. Stick with over the calf fine dress socks and as with everything formal, less is more
In the US it is quite common to see dinner suits worn to day weddings. In the UK you might see lounge suits or perhaps morning clothes. UK evening weddings aren’t common. If you wanted to be a stickler you could wear formal day wear for the day wedding and change into a dinner suit for the reception, that would be more correct but unusually strict in the US
I have one question, is it okay to wear a velvet dinner jacket (dark blue or dark green) to a black tie event? Considering the jacket has all the right characteristics, single button, peak lapels in grosgrain and no pocket flaps, the rest of the outfit would be the same as a tux Thanks for the help
I think it depends on the venue. Last year I wore a royal blue velvet dinner jacket with shawl lapel to a fundraiser for a public aquarium. The rest of the outfit was standard black tie to not go totally overboard.
I’m not an expert like Kirby, but my impression is that a pale jacket makes one look like one is one of the waiters or a member of the band, not a guest. M.
A white dinner jacket can be nice. Shawl lapel single or double breasted, self faced lapels, wear your regular tuxedo trousers. Suitable for tropical weather or on a cruise or resort
Hi kirby, always a great value video from you, a quick question on wing collar shirts.. Are these appropriate or is it best for the shirt to be a turn down collar? All the best
To my knowledge they are appropriate, just the best looking wing tip shirts have starch collars and some people find them uncomfortable. Personally I don't mind them, comfort wise.
Quite appropriate if a tall, well starched detachable collar paired with either a marcella front, or a boiled shirt such as would be worn with white tie, inappropriate if attached, and especially inappropriate with a pleated shirt.
Hi Kirby! Great Video as always. I was wondering when you would deem it appropriate to wear trews with black tie. And similarly, a white waistcoat as was commonplace during the golden age. Thanks :)
I have a black tie event coming up next month and this was the first place I came to figure out how to do it correctly! This is more of a "fun" black tie event, a local dinner/boxing event combo. I'm wearing a midnight blue tuxedo. I don't have it in my budget to get patent leather shoes but I have oth some oxfords and whole cuts that take a great mirror shine. My question is this: How formal do the cufflinks need to be? I have some wood and silver cufflinks, they are in ebony wood insert in a square silver holder, that I would like to wear. Are those too informal? Thanks in advance for your, or anyone else's, insight!
With regards to cuff-links, I've always known the general rule of gold is worn in the day-time and silver for evenings; so your silver and ebony links will be fine.
Great channel and video. I have a white tie ensemble that I would love to wear but opportunities are rare. I do, however, have opportunities to wear a black tie ensemble. Can I wear white tie to a black tie event? Is this over dressed? Thanks for your insight.
Two questions with regards to black-tie. First, would it be considered extra formal if the cap toe oxfords would have satin laces? Lastly, are full gold cufflinks acceptable?
Question .... does the tuxedo supposed to be fitted close to your body shape or loose? I saw some tuxedo that looks very relax and kind of not close fitted like modern day suits.
nowadays, there is a new trend that many guys worn fancy suits, pants, loafer shoes with no-show socks, they thought it is cool but I think it is quite dumb
Hi there! I've never been to a christian/catholic funeral. I'm just wondering whether one is to wear a black tie attire or a formal suit or a blazer to such funerals. Could you please help me out?
I believe also that if a wristwatch must be worn, it's preferable that it be time only and have no other complications (which allude to the guest being too concerned with time) while at a black-tie event. Would also go 36mm or smaller for someone of average to slight wrist size worn on the non-dominant hand.
