workingwithiron presents a step by step no step skipped blacksmithing tutorial for a spring fuller. Nathan Baker will take you through the full process step by step in the Blacksmithing Tools series.
It might be so obvious that it doesn't need saying, but I'm going to say it anyway, to wit, these instructions are designed for an anvil that has a 1" hardy hole. If your hardy hole is larger (one of my anvils has a 1 1/4" hardy hole) the easiest way to get this to work would be to sleeve it. If your hardy hole is smaller, I would suggest forge welding the pin together, then forging it down to dimension.
@@workingwithiron thank you so much for making this video. I just finished my spring Fuller and I'm so glad that you produced your new video after 4 years. Either you're working in a different shop or you have a different anvil when your new video. Just wanted to say thanks so much. I love all of your videos and I have produced all of your tools except the bottle opener
After about six years of hard use, my spring fuller decided that today was the day it would finally break. A brief poking around RU-vid brought me to this video and I stayed until the end. Well done! Now if I could just get this damned coil spring to fit into the damned gas forge...
Really enjoyed your video! First time anyone has given inch and millimetre measures, really appreciate that. Quiet, carefull instructions, give another dimension to the forging. Thankyou.
I've been working my way through your videos and I've found each to be so very helpful. I'll be going through them again once I get my forge built and I'll build each of the tools. Thank you so much for your awesome instructional videos!
I too am working my way through your great instructional/teaching videos. Like "Jimbo's Welding Shop Aka: The humble welder," I will have to go through your "Blacksmithing Tools..." series again once I get my forge back into operating condition and build these tools to make more tools.
I know this is a late comment, but I really love your videos! You can really see the working of the metal, no blasting music or starwipe fade ins and out. :) Just good clear instructions. Thanks again for the video.
I’ve recently started watching your videos and love the details steps of the whole process. Much appreciated because I have much to learn and these videos will definitely help. Thank you!
If you are having trouble getting a good fit in the hardy, it's ok to cheat ! Get your welder out and run beads down between the rods in the hardy peg and either forge gently or cheat again and use an angle grinder to get the peg to fit nice and snug. This gives a peg much more likely to stay the right size and shape over time and use. Not pure blacksmithing practise, but more 'practical smithing' to get a good result quickly so you can get on with other work. Great videos to learn from Nathan - No gimmicks or music, clear voiceover and filmed with all the detail clearly shown. As teaching aids go, yours are right up there with Mark Aspery. I just wish you would do more, but understand that you are also busy trying to earn a crust. Thanks for your generous gifts to us all !
" Super great instructions Sir " You know every stroke of the job and some great information before any damages are done from inexperienced Smiths. Subscribe now thanks for great teaching. To much before they fully know. Thanks for great teaching 👍
Hello, great video my unknown friend! I really appreciate the attention to detail with each step. I'm coming up fast on my first year going near full time at the craft. I'm tackling more and more, and tomorrow I'm giving this a go. I already have some 1/4in coil spring in my pile so I'll use that. Should work fine I think, the fuller it'll leave will just be half size of your demonstration. Then adjust for my anvils hardy hole, I believe also coil spring will be a tad harder than mild steel, even if I don't harden it. I think. Besides starting on a mobile set up, my biggest goal right now is making tools, and honing my skill with such. The leaf lesson was great too. Gonna have to squeeze time for one that way as well. Apologizes for the paragraph, and again thank you for the uploads!🍻
Real nice, Ben following along a making these tools your doing, looking forward to banging this one out, as always I enjoy watching you work everything is precise and well explained thanks
Thank you Greg. If you are making the tools as we go along then that's Awesome as there is a reason i am making these tools or showing how to make them. The projects i have lined up will need them so rather than people not having the tool to do the job there will be videos showing how to make each tool used. hence the tools series. Again Thank you!! makes it worthwhile!
made the spring fuller , and round punch this morning . both work well , I use the coke forge more these days , for the same reason you said , cheers mate
Make sure everything is in line. If it's not correct it, if it is leave it. Honestly great advice. I've messed up good pieces trying to tweaked that last mm just to throw everything out of alignment.
I don't know if I'm the only one because I haven't read all the comments but, it would have been nice if I could have heard all of what you were saying! I could only hear about half of what was said as the forge/blower was so loud that it drowned out a lot! The video was good and as the fellow with the comment below mine says, if your Hardy hole is of a different size, that will have to be taken into consideration and changes with have to be made, accordingly! I will be making one of these for myself very soon, along with some other spring fullers for different projects! Excellent tutorial and I DID go and read a lot of the comments and I must be the only one that couldn't hear it! I even plugged in a set of earphones to see if it was my speakers and even that didn't help! Oh well, I did get it by just watching! At first, I couldn't figure out where you were going with it but, as always, Nathan, I figured it out as you went along! It gives you that extra hand, using the Hardy hole, so that you can use BOTH of YOUR hands for the work that needs to be done! Great video! Thanks for the video!
I don't know if it's your camera or what, but your videos show you moving that metal better than %99 of all the other videos. Thanks again for the video, i have my iPad sitting by as I try and make these tools along with you teaching! 😀
mark johnson it's all to do with the heat, I work hot and hit hard, if you notice a lot of Smith's hit harder the colder it gets, where as I hit hard straight away and put the steel back in at a nice orange colour, this helps a lot with moving metal.
I haven't set up yet either ...we can't easily get coal or coke here so going for top quality charcoal making...Jarrah is said to be best here..doesn't spit as much as other woods..no clinker to worry about and can just make a well in a charcoal bed to create any size fire i want so i have convinced myself this is the go...the charcoal making is going to be a time factor but once done a quality fire me thinks...I hear your woes on the Gas forge but I think having both would be very convenient enabling large or awkward size work to get heated conveniently on the Charcoal and smaller stuff conveniently heated without all the fuss..just turn on the gas!!
Hello, and first off thank you for the video. I find all your presentations to be inforative and helpful. Now to my question. What is the purpose of the multiple quenches of the mild steel, my understanding is that the mild steel will not harden with a quench? Thank you.
Kami Hayden its not necessarily the hardness I'm after, more the toughness to minimise bending as much as I can. This will make it tougher than if I just left it normalised, as it's mild steel it won't break even if I increase the grain structure as big as possible by multiple quenches at yellow heat. It works to an extent.
Excellent videos....I m a beggining blacksmith...currently building my wood fired forge from an old BBQ...I do a lo of minimalistic repurposing stuff from the desert.....I have a question.....did the fuller slightly bend when you were using it at the end of the video? Would you have to re-tune the fuller from time to time?....heating process over again? Thx for sharing with us! :)
I'm not a blacksmith by any stretch of the imagination, but I found your video very interesting and informative. What's an example of what that tool would be used for?
It puts an (nearly) identical indentation (fuller) on both sides of the work piece, forming a little "pinch" if you will, it helps to form tangs and shoulders certain types of knives, tools and other projects, it's something that you really can't do with a hammer alone.
That looks handy bey! I feel your hate of gas forges and awkward shapes. My other hate is the way scale sticks to the work. You don't get that with solid fuel, the finish is so much better that I'd say an unbrushed piece made with solid fuel has a better finish than a brushed piece from a gas forge. Great video.
Yes, something softer about solid fuel forges, the scale is a lot more delicate and easier to remove, gas tends to oxidise a lot more aggressively. Great for small work or work that does not change shape but other than that they are a difficult tool to work with. Thank you!
Nice job, any reason why you didn't forge weld the stem? I noticed you had to flatten the edges to fit the hardy hole, so to me it suggested a simple weld would have worked. Thank you.
I don't fireweld because that way I can use it for other size Hardie holes by opening the stem up. It also acts as a spring the way it is so I can squeeze it in the Hardie hole getting it to sit more snug.
I made this and it tends to bent the top fuller quite a bit. Not sure if o am hitting the metal at too cold of a temp or using a stock that is too big for what I built. Anyways, it needs dressing up quite a bit and wonder of making this from spring steel would be more sturdy. What do you think?
Здравствуйте! удивляюсь вашему мастерству в работе с металлом, неторопливо, каждый удар обдуманный, всё чётко! КЛАСС!!! У меня такой вопрос, какую сталь вы использовали для этой обжимки? Спасибо!
FYI, and not trying to be a dick in any way, inch is denoted with ( " ) not ( ' ). ( ' ) denotes a foot, ( 12" ) this is in reference to your blueprint slide, which i found super helpfull.
I know this is an old video, but I have a question. When making this out of spring steel, how would you heat treat the "spring" part? Leave it soft or harden and temper it?
Its a 40lb bottle, If i could have a 100lb bottle i would as the pressure i could get would be much better than what i currently get. This bottle will last about 24-30 hours on tickover.
If you're using mild steel why do you quench it? I always thought it didn't have enough carbon to get hard. But great video really thorough instructions!
The reason i quench is to make it tougher than if i didn't quench it. if i left it it would be in a soft state but when quenched the grains tighten up, It has some carbon in it, enough to toughen up more than if i didn't quench. It will get mangled anyway. I will be doing a case hardening video soon on mild steel to show you can harden the stuff. Heat treating can make things harder or tougher, softer or more wear resistant, not just hard. different steels will do different things depending on shape, composition, temperature, cooling speed and process.
Thank you for the response. Does the number quenches make the steel more tough like if you quenches it 10 times instead of three would it be comparable to tempered hardened steel? Or does it get a max toughness after a few quenches?
To be honest i don't know if it will make much difference the more you do so. It is not comparable to hardened steel due to the low carbon content. It needs the carbon to harden but with at least a little bit it will harden slightly, all im doing it for on this tool is to minimise bending when struck. Something like this is a consumable tool, wont last a lifetime of abuse, but if used on hot steel only it should hold out pretty well, if used on cooler steel it will considerably shorten the life of it.
a way to test out how you'd like a solid fule forge like mine is to dig a small hole in the ground and on the side dig a trench for your pipe to feed air in and cover the pipe up with dirt for a heat sink. try this for a while before you go out and buy a $200 to $300 forge
I have worked with many solid fuel forges, its what i learned on, then worked on at the forge i used to work for, and at college, side blasts to bottom blasts and a multiple of different fuels so know how they work and i know thats what i need. I have a gas forge only as i live in a smoke free zone in the city and have no space to put the solid fuel forge, so went with gas. I wouldn't buy a forge unless it was an alldays and onions i would prefer to just build one to the same spec as an alldays. Thanks for the advice!
Water quenching spring steel is a bad plan. And you’ll want to quench the spring for better rebound. And you’ll want to temper the fullers and spring so it doesn’t shatter. But cool project and thanks for the share.
High roof, windows open, door open and the roof has gaps either end and all around so the heat can escape, stays around 30 c in the winter and in the summer can reach way over 80c which is unbearable but get used to it.
T R I could explain it, the bouncing is a rest, between blows when I'm looking at what the material is doing and what I need to do in the next hit, same as when a powerhammer bounces while turning stock rather than keeping on hitting. I bounce the hammer as it's easier to let it fall to the anvil rather than hold it in the air causing strain on the hammer arm. I usually put the hammer on its side when I'm done with a heat, a process or if I'm sighting for straightness with two hands or looking at the shape and making sure it's doing what it should be. It's subconscious on my part and don't think about it it's not really a process, just a habit and a practice that comes with time unless you are conscious enough to not do it. Every time the hammer drops, watch the work or the tongs, it will usually move to a different part to be forged. This is why the pause (drop of hammer) is there.
not being a blacksmith, just an interested hobbyist. I wonder why the fuller arms are made so long they appear to absorb energy needlessly and little length is needed to actually do the fuller. is there an alignment issue or what, to require the arms to be so long. thanks
I'm wondering what sort of life have you gotten from this fuller? Should it be made of spring steel instead? I just made this from mild steel and was curious.
31:35...What happened to the fuller? You went to all that trouble to get the angle you wanted when making the fuller and then on the first use the angle went to shit. Worse than parallel. I'm not a blacksmith, but I'd like to learn the craft. Is there something you could have done to prevent this, or is it just a matter of fixing the fuller after using it?
Pop's Shack it's a consumable tool. You just straighten it. It should be made of spring steel or something tougher but as I'm showing the process of the forging the how to bit it doesn't matter for this video.
Good to know, thanks for the prompt response. My entire experience of blacksmithing so far is heating up some round bar in the stove and bending it to shape to use as a poker, so the more I learn the better.
I have only used gas forges, but I have never seen one that looked like that! It looks like it was designed to be portable, and thus much lighter and smaller. I'd say it's doubtful it was meant for anything larger than horseshoes.
Lenblacksmith I can't say a time yet mate, I filmed a few videos but come to editing them and they were such bad quality visually that I've decided to not upload and delete them. Where I am the light is not the best, even with lighting that I have so am investing in some better lights so I can keep the settings optimal on the camera without losing quality in picture. The filming of hot steel in a dark environment is so difficult to get right. But hopefully back up and running soon.
Ok good to hear and hope you get the lighting and such sorted yeah darkness can hinder things that's for sure. Cheers mate, and until then I'll just watching your vids already up onYT.
I know this is six years ago but I still see people make this mistake... Just so you know, a single quote ( ' ) stands for feet and a double quote ( " ) stands for inches.
