Blade Restoration (Kukri Knife) With Rust Eraser Sabitoru Product 

Matt Easton polishes his (longer than average) blade, soiling a pillow in the process.

@@jeremywashburn562 don't forget to mention his favorite topic of penetration!

Looks like I'll need to get some and try them out.

Damn my comment has already been stated...

Check out Crimson Custom Guitars. They sell eraser blocks in different grades for doing guitar fretwork.

Yes I can, though with moving house I don't know when that will happen. The next few weeks will be dominated by house decoration.

@@scholagladiatoria all the best with the move. I know how exhausting that can be. I was going to make the same request to see the end product - I think you'll find quite a bit of interest in a full restoration video.

Thanks Max.. I was wondering why I developed a bit of a cough and a sore throat!

No problem. I made the same mistake when I polished my first few swords with sandpaper and ended up with a cough that lasted quite some time before a friend alerted me. If you have any interest in this, there were a few articles published in the 19th century talking about this issue with sword sharpeners. They, of course, polished many more swords than we do, but the death rate was so high among them the French government offered 3000fr to whoever could find a solution. Knife sharpeners today often have the same issues because they do not respect proper work safety. books.google.ca/books?id=bwWnU7Ae1vwC&pg=PR95&dq=emouleurs+lames+mort+poussi%C3%A8re&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXt47Sjc7iAhWKnOAKHfdcD9AQ6AEIMTAB#v=onepage&q=emouleurs%20lames%20mort%20poussi%C3%A8re&f=false

Cattilla the Hun

Cataphract

Catius Aglienensis

That removes rust, but not really patina - this was mostly dirt and patina, not rust. But no, I have not use electrolysis. I will try it one day.

And only cost like £4

Nice, I will check them out.

I've never tried anything like this, sorry.

I'm not personally a fan of it - it does the job, but stains the steel and in the end only gets you to the same stage as this rust eraser does, but takes longer.

Just the regular normal Autosol seems to work well.

Yes definitely.

@@scholagladiatoria thank you, I am extremely greatful, because I love forging and and restoration

Never tried it on a blade but I sometimes make a paste with vinegar and plain flour to daub on rusty things, about 24 hours later I scrub the crust (now orange with rust) off with scrunched up aluminium foil or a brass brush dipped in water and sodium bicarbonate/baking soda, NOT baking powder (to neutralise the acid). In my experience acids will take off the original patina and leave a dull patina of their own (sometimes with an unpleasant gold tinge) but can be bought up quite nicely with a fine abrasive and steel wool. For vintage tools I just use a steel brush followed by steel wool to take off loose rust and polish whilst leaving patina intact.

Mrs Eastern hasn't appeared for some time now.

@@daemon1143 and cat easton probably will too after this video

Also might be interesting to know: the kanji 錆, the left side of it is 金 meaning metal, and the right side of it is 青 meaning green or blue.

The same kanji in Chinese would be 锈

Not much...they both come in various grits.

I have never heard of Cratex, so I have no idea.

Brasso

Well, Brasso did not cut it up for me. There are stains on the surface which (despite a lot of rubbing) have not even faded. On the other hand, the Brasso I used was pretty old so it might have gone off.

You can use Autosol on brass, but you'll need to buff with cloth or felt afterwards.

You can dip it in Coke for an hour. It works.

Interesting, I will search for some.

The issue with this blade wasn't really rust, but rather the very dark dirty patina. I don't think boiling would do anything to that.

Why?