Real blacksmith right here, I see a lot of people who just cut knives out from the steel and title the video "forging ______" it pisses me off. Glad to see a real blacksmith.
Binge watched all videos. Learned something from every one of them. Looks like you’ve moved on from making more. I appreciate the ones that you did make. Thank you
Gday Andrew, Once again awesome work going out hunting on the 4th and 5th of May and a larger hunt on the 4th to the 9th of June fallow deer hunting and will be taking the knife with me on both occasions will be recording as well. Great video and will keep in touch...
Original bowie knives were small. They got super-sized over time. Look at Black's early works. Small is just more useful, but by the Civil War huge cutlass clip points lol
Just found this channel. I like your work, looks like quality knives. I guess you're not making videos anymore or is one a year your schedule?🤔😎 I'm going to subscribe anyway hoping you make some more vids.
Thanks Aaron! How have things been going with you? Haven't heard from you in a while! It's good to hear from you again! And I'll check it out when you post it!
Nice job buddy... thanks for the video... what size is that large contact wheel on your grinder?.. .is it a home made or purchased wheel? a couple pieces of insight i can give... when you use pins like that, that are not screw pins or rivets... you can score the part of the pin that will be encased by your handle materal with a hacksaw or about anything.. .the scores in the pin will hold the epoxy and form a mechanical interlock inside the handle..and will greatly reduce the chances the pins come out of that handle fifty years from now... also score the tang of the knife to provide more surface area for the the epoxy and handle to be locked together with... .. in that specific designe with the handle fully enclosing the tang and accompanies with pins...not as important... but will still make for a more durable knife. People tend to use the handle of a knife as a soft hammer to tap on all kinds of stuff, in addition to slamming or throwing them around.... so any pin that is not a countersunk screw pin or a rivet .. tends to eventually work it's way loose and fall out... about 5 .30" deep scores around the pin, perpendicular to the long axis of the pin,.. epoxied in... will likely give your very long term name for a quality product... some justice... and if you are shooting for very high quality work.. learning how to rivet very well without splitting the wood.. and being able to round the rivet heads by hand... will pay off big time, with anyone who knows what they are looking at. Tempering knives and tools with a torch as you did is just fine in most cases... and moving the torch around to get an even heat is exactly right... but you may find you get better results all around if you hold the knife with back edge down blade edge up and heat from the back edge waiting for the color to come up evenly just barely kissing the blade edge.. There is another youtuber who goes by the name Clickspring he makes videos on making clock parts and tooling... and his viewers very frequently call his videos the best machinist porn on the internet... very nice videos... he uses a boric acid, and denatured alcohol mixture to make a paste to use as an anti scale compound that seems to work very well... i think if you check his videos out it may help you as a good standard for your own work if you choose to continue to develope videos... which i think you should... but without the Kiss t-shirt... them dudes were sticking their tongues out at people who were not going to tear anyone's tongue out.. and they did in fact rip off the world in ways you will never be finished knowing. you will find that the style of blade you produced with the sexy curved underbelly leading back to the tang does not sharpen as easily or as well as a straight belly... a person skilled with a set of sticks can make it work reasonably well... a person with a jig can make it work reasonably well... but generally speaking... if you leave the aesthetics to the nonfunctional portions of the blade.. you will serve yourself, your customer, and the community far better... i know from having made the exact same choice that you did.... product of salesmen in our youth. Some very old knives have that shape from being worn out and resharpened ...but it turns out putting it in from the start... is about like making pre-worn out bluejeans... may sell good... but will not provide what i know you are actually trying to produce.... a genuine quality product. thanks again for the video and taking the time to actually forge the knife... all knives should be... and if a man is going to take the honor of being that guy.. he should endeavor to do a good job of it... be it with dies and a press... or a hammer and anvil...or both.. good luck in your future work.
Hey great vid! Can you give a little detail on your engraving tool? I can’t really afford to get a touch mark made and think this is a great alternative. TIA
Thanks! And it's forged from a coil spring from a truck. It's just like a chisel for steel but smaller. Just make the basic shape like in the video, heat treat it and sharpen it. The edge shouldn't be sharp sharp though, it should actually be a little blunt and the edge should be visible slightly. Just play around with angles and you'll find the right one! Good luck!
Not to sound like a smartass but with the electrical weld on the tang you have a pretty terrible weakspot that is prone to cracking. UNLESS you preheated the tang and the guard prior to welding and gave it a thorough anneal afterwards but the blade was already heattreated so probably not. With the weld you heated the tang way past hardening temperature (stick welding gets the material up to ~4000°C/7000°F) and most certainly it hardened through at the connection with the guard with maybe even some microcracks developing due to the very rapid heating and cooling. I guess at least it was slightly tempered when you burned off the glue but you can imagine that it is still weaker than unhardened steel when it comes to yield strength. Typically you would want to braze connections like that to avoid unwanted hardening of the material. Or simply use a strong epoxy. No offense, if it worked out then its all good but maybe this is something to keep in mind for the future. I don't intend to belittle you or your work it is a beautiful knife overall.
I'm not a metallurgist, I'm just an apprenticed blacksmith and doing it for a living. I've had my fair share of trouble welding high carbon (tool) steels electrically. Even 1045 develops cracks easily if not heated a bit prior to welding. It's really hit or miss and also depends on stock size. A large heatsink is going to make the weld prone to cracking if not preheated. Thin stock seems a little more forgiving.
One of the best knife forging(not knife f... anglegrindering) videos. Everything was great until you started making the handle. The handle was ugly and the method of making it was weird.
