Blown Generator Engine Rebuild - Part 2 

I bet it was storage, I worked for a company that sold sand/salt spreaders with 10hp Briggs engines, these were all brand new. The guys that installed the spreaders blew up 6 in a row, all broken rods with aluminum transferred to the crank journal, after a little research, I found by engine date code they were all 2 1/2 to 3 years old, never run before. I disassembled the 7th engine before it was stared for the first time and found the rod big end completely dry and all engines were full of oil. Running at full speed, dry, for just a few seconds is all it takes. The fix was to remove the engines, dump in at least 2 quarts of oil, flip the engines in every direction while rotating the crankshaft to re-lube every inch inside. Then reinstall and adjust oil level. The rest of that batch of twenty all ran fine. Great video, I enjoyed it very much.

Not only is your knowledge deep and complete. But I've said it before. I follow about 15 RU-vid hosts. Your voice, tone, demeanor and ability to articulate your reasoning and actions is a gift. You are at the top of the small engine instructional video list. PS- I respect the amount of time you put into editing these wonderfully long videos. Your B clips and closeups are professional grade and you should be proud of the end result. I hope there is enough compensation in these views to keep it worth your while and allow you to keep producing these gems.. Thanks James. Dan

For future reference, if the brass jet is drilled too big (and don't have 4 spare carbs), I have soldered the jet completely closed, then drill out to the correct size. Your videos are a wealth of knowledge.

So glad to have found this channel! Production quality is impressive and the amount of free knowledge is unmatched. Who needs TV?

You have quickly become my favorite YTber for small engine repair. The detail of your work is brilliant.

My only complaint is 'why don't you have 2 million subscribers'? By far, you're the best how to video on small engines on this site!

Hi James... and thank you for a most in depth technical presentation. As an Ex-RAF technician, this took me back to my service career, I guessed you were a professional, having all the tools I haven't seen and/or used for years. But... there is now way on Gods earth that engine started first pull??? All engines smoke after a rebuild (but I guess that would not look good) and for such a deep restoration, why would you not check the valve stem oil seals for hardening? and replace them as a matter of course. Watching you lap those valves in... omg history "a dull even symmetrical ring" is what you're looking for my instructor said, I've never forgotten. I found your video by searching "Neilsen Generator strip down" as I bought a 'was working' for £20 English pounds, that came to an abrupt halt when I viewed it... same thing I rekon... con rod either dethatched or snapped. The journey begins...

I love that style of Briggs engine . Any and all small air cooled engines are going to make noise. But they (B&S) developed the right muffler to calm the noise. I've used these type of generators for years around the farm and they're wonderful machines. Keep run hours recorded and change the oils regularly. They'll last a long time.

I found your channel the other day and have watched 6 so far. I have no experience in small engine repair but I find myself wanting to but a generator and give it a try. Love the videos. Very well done.

This is your best rebuild series yet. You showcased your skills, improved techniques as well as your upgraded tools. It was a joy to watch. And like Tom H I too caught the "one tooth off" situation becasue I learned from your previous videos. Well done sir...these vids. were good ones.

Simply wow, James on Thursdays and Mustie1 Sundays just get me through the week. Perfect.

When using a ring grinder, always turn the disk so it forces the ring down towards the grinder base. Less chance of breaking the ring. Also squeeze the ring together so you grind both ends parallel.

James, I really want to thank you for this series. I did a spring tune-up on my Champion 8000 and when I first got it, I knew the power head from the engine but that was about it. Now, after watching about 50 hours of your instructional videos, all the parts of my generator felt as familiar as the back of my hand. And I knew what to do to bring the machine back to life after sitting for a couple of years. It was always hard to start before... after finding a little bit of water in the tank, now I know why. I fixed that and a couple of other minor problems and now it starts first pull and runs better than I could have imagined. I even added a couple of zip ties to the power head to prevent any chance that cables might get sucked into the stator. And of course I used space heaters for dummy load testing! Thank you, thank you.

Just a note on Plastigage. Some people think you are only measuring one side of the assembly and double the reading they find, which is WRONG! When you torque the connecting rod to the crankshaft you are contacting the crank opposite the Plastigage side in effect giving you a true diametral clearance between the crank OD and Rod bore, which is how the spec is called out by the OEM. If you want to know how thick the film of oil is on the rotating assembly divide the Plastigage reading by two. Great video Jim, you are becoming famous in the small engine community!

Well done sir! Always a joy to watch you resurrect neglected equipment destined for the landfill. Great to see the New England small engine network working in concert!

A couple of new tools we haven't seen you use before, the ring expander & the ring trimmer. In PT1, your new Ryobi. Excellent video!!

I'm an electrician (a real industrial electrician from Ford). NEVER use any abrasive on slip rings or commutator segments. That carbon you see is from the brushes and it takes quite a while to 'form' from arcing. Carbon is a natural lubricant AND it conducts. Impregnated carbon actually makes the brushes last longer.

Splendid work! I love how thorough you are and measure everything.

I am really surprised and dismayed to see that B&S have dumbed down their engine quality. Going from ground cam lobes to cheesy plastic ones is just shameful. B&S have long been an American icon. That older engine looked very well built. Makes me glad I am a Honda fan. You did an amazing job on this one, James!

Hi, James. I sent this video to my grandsons, to help them understand small engine repair. I find it very interesting and educational. I hope they do as well. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!

You asked what we thought caused the rod failure. My guess would be the loose screw on the low oil sensor inside the crank case . If it was loose the low oil signal may not have reached the oil level module. Just because you have a oil sensor on your generator, it not a good idea NOT to check the oil level. I always check the oil every time I refuel my generator or start it for the first annual use. I had a small engine repair shop for about 10 years, back in the 1990’s. When I had my shop the only time I saw a generator, was during Hurricane season, (in south east Texas). Most time the only problem was low oil level, and the sensor did what it was designed to do. So I changed their oil and explained there problem and sent them on their way for $10.00. :) I was watching your videos to figure out how to get the power head off the crank shaft. The water in the bolt hole is very clever. “Your videos are outstanding.” I have a old worn out 10 Hp Briggs, on a 26 year old Devilbiss generator that I want to rebuild. I’m 75 yr old now, but still like to work on my own equipment. It will only run about 5 hours before the low oil switch’s kills it. Best regards Donald

Great job James. I will say that you are particular on torquing almost every nut or bolt that you tighten. I am a 69 year old, disabled, mechanic of more that 50 years. Of that a bit over 20 years was small engine mechanics. When I rebuilt an engine I would torque the rod, head, sump bolts. I never torqued any carb mount bolt, breather nuts. i never had any problems in my twenty plus year. Not saying I am right and you are wrong, just commenting on different styles that get the job done. As I said, I am retired and disabled, a virtual shutin, and I get a great deal of enjoyment watching you work. Also I always wanted to work on generators and never got the chance. Keep up the good work.

Another beautiful thing to watch. Thanks James.

Nice work James. Lots of patience, care for the detail, proper tools and love for the job. Excellent!

Good catch on the air box!

Truly interactive watching ! when you started the engine, I was already diagnosing and analyzing the surging issue.

What a fantastic job from start to finish. You are the Bob Ross of engine repair! I've learned so much from your videos. Thanks

I found a tick when seeing this after part 1, which had no tick. 2nd time just as good as the first, always enjoyable watching you make such a good job. The proof being how well they run after servicing/rebuilding. Am impresed with the Briggs and Stratton engines too, never heard of them till RU-vid a couple of years ago. Thanks :)

Nicely done. Using the proper tools, techniques and torques with testing and fine tuning....that's what separates the technician from the common mechanic.

Your very good at explaining what your doing! And, your video shots are quite clear.

James, new to your channel and boy I’m hooked. Small engine repair is a real challenge to most homeowners. Your vids are helpful and educational.

This was a great confidence builder another great job thank you James for sharing your video with us. Ed

Thanks for part deux James. Great as always.

Great to watch you work--professional job as always!

That's awesome that not just inspec but also dang near brand new good to see a part 2 on this Motor @James Condon

Congratulations on a job well done James.

What a great rebuild always exciting to see them come to life.

A common failure that causes that kind of damage is one of the rod cap bolts not being torqued correctly, the looser one backs out and the rod fails shortly after, I've seen this many times one several different brands, if I was a betting man I would say there was a rod cap bolt undamaged in the sump when you took it apart

You're just awesome. Very much appreciate your videos. All the way here from Papua New Guinea

Nice work rebuilding that engine James, glad to see the generator up and running again!

Great save on the engine James thanks for sharing 🦘🇦🇺👍

Outstanding video and presentation.

Very well done!! Like your approach, systematic and thorough.

Another great video James . Thank you!

I am reworking a Storm Responder too. It had the same problem. Broke the connecting rod. Like you I think if they are not sitting level they don't get enough oil. I am not rebuilding the engine. I just found a used one and will put that on. I will say I have learned a lot from you James.

Nice rebuild, thanks for the vid James.

Really enjoyed this 2 video project, thanks for sharing

One more out the door. Thanks for saving it from the scrapyard.

Another excellent video James !

Your videos are outstanding. That was an awesome rebuild. I look forward to your next project gen.

Nice find Jame 😊

Great job James!

Love that drill set!

Like the details you give .. excellent rebuild..runs like a swiss watch..

James Great videos on generators Very informative Keep up it up Thanks John

The engine sounds very healthy after the rebuild other then the surging and the carb @James Condon

Hi James a great rebuild mate it took a fair few man hours . Someone is going to get a live time gene with care I think. James you always make it look easy a perfect class to sit in loved the part 1 and 2 brilliant

Great video! Drilling the jet was a good lesson.

I suggest to replace the stones on hone with 3M scrub pads & a box stapler, Makes smaller/finer scratches, its good for new rings in a smaller engine. I enjoy your videos, Nick

Love to see this kind of rebuild. So many of these end up in the trash. Jame is doing his part in recycle/reuse. Saving the environment.

Another great video. Thanks for posting it!

Thank you for another great video. I have thoroughly been enjoying your channel.

Keep up the good work new to your channel but love your videos glad there's people out here like you doing this kind of interesting work

Hey James... Brilliant rebuild. Loved every minute. It's really ashame that the clone carbs aren't more consistent in quality and performance. I've had no luck with clones over the years. I've had really good luck with the Nikki's. Looking forward to your next iron resurrection 👍👍😁😁😁 BTW....hope you made out well with the other gensets we talked about.👍👍👍😁😁

I wanted to thank you I've watched your videos and was able to fix my generator had to change the power head would have never been able to do it without watching your videos

Great save on that one. It appears to be quite the powerhouse now. I would ask a little more than usual for that one. Amazing how such a tiny jet adjustment cured its ills.

Great video/tutorial. I've learned quite a bit just by viewing this video.

I'm sure someone else has commented on this surging problem. But my gen did the same thing and I saw on youtube somewhere that the jet size is too small due to epa crap. That guy suggested to drill out the jet just a bit and that should fix the problem. I bought some micro bits and enlarged the jet just a hair. That solved the surging problem. I think that OEM's set there carbs lean for emissions and that is why the exhaust valve is white. I'm sure this is what the gut commenting below, "Robert Not Bob", is talking about.

Wow a strap wrench to tighten the flywheel ! I always just stuck a big long screwdriver in the fins and torqued the nut till it felt about right!

Great rebuild Doc., very informative.

well done, nice work. greetings from Holland.

Can you please make a video about sourcing parts; substitute brands and commonly used items?

like your ring gap grinding tool also use a proper tool for seal insertion so you wont overshoot great video excellent rebuild 👍

I found a small air compressor on the side of the road. It look new so I took it. After examination, it too had exactly the same damage as yours in this video. Looking close, I noticed it was dropped once. Probably while in operation. That bit did it in...

I think that leak in the head gasket caused low compression and over speed and the rod failed . Great Job James looks great and runs like new !!

Great video series !!!!

You do nice work very informative thank you

You are very talented and meticulous…could be a Surgen ❤️🇺🇸❤️

Getting better all the time.

excellent job

Well done!

Thanks. Great Video.

Something that looks very inconvenient is that handle ; always sticking straight out. I can guarantee you, if it was in my garage or shed, I'd always be banging my leg on it! :-P :-D

Fantastic video. One suggestion is to avoid using a claw hammer with metal on metal contact. It's great for soft steel on nails, but the hammer head is case hardened enough to cause chips/eye injury when contacting other metals. I'm sure you're wearing safety glasses, but still... Buy an inexpensive ball pein hammer from harbor freight. It's designed not to to cause chips and it will save your sockets/seal drivers. Kind regards. Craig

Wow, I never had one where the gap was too small! Usually, the readings are in the middle of the range or toward the top end!

Sorry for my earlier suggestion James. I should have known you would have already used Plasti-Gage in the past. I have learned so much from you thru your videos, I was hoping to share something new with you. Maybe next time. LOL Chuck

this is a beautiful video your attention to detail is great.How did you get this good, I have zero knowledge on this and found this video interesting and wonderful.

Excellent Tech. 2/20/2022

Plastigauge is ok, but mathematically checking is more accurate. Get a set of telescope or spring gauges and measure (by micrometer) the ID of the con rod big end. Do this by installing the cap and torquing, then measure. Subtract that ID from the journal OD and divide by two. There’s your clearance. The service manuals reference the clearance of one side because it’s usually measured the way you did hence the division by two. That gives you exactly the oil clearance. Cheers.

Got drill but went through that main jet too easy for it to be anything but varnish build up in the main jet. Good thing you did not drill it out anymore.

One other test I recommend. Crankshaft end play. Most use around 10k as correct. Don’t know if you have that spec.

Nice fix the jet just needed to alow tiny amount more fuel in @James Condon

Like your videos and you are a wealth of information

Good movie thanks

Excellent 👌

James you do have the most detailed repair of small engines on the tube. Clear and concise. Just wondering if there is a way to measure the valve spring tension to make sure they are up to specs. I know it is likely not necessary but wanted to ask anyway. Thank you so very much for sharing your skill with us.

Thanks!

Piston rings, 120 degrees apart and dots line up on crank gear and camshaft.

Pro Tip: Only shut off your gen via fuel shutoff valve and it'll start first or second pull every time, even on 3 year old gas.

Good video....