Blue Stuff/Oyumaru - How to cheaply cast miniatures or plastic models - new version 

Games Workshop hates this video.

Just bought some. No idea what I'm going to cast yet, but you've convinced me I need it! ;-)

This may be useful as I tend to break parts on my model kits while painting.

I use a product called steel stick. It's used in plumbing repair. It's a two part epoxy and hardens in 5 min. You could pump out a 500 point army in 4hrs. Also they have this exact product from Japan. It's used as a clay substitute. It's called Oyumaru.

My dude, you've saved me a lot of hassle. I've been after such a product for years at this point and seeing how easy it is, I'm impressed

I've been looking for a molding method like this for decades. Amazingly easy too with no sticky mess.

The most epic water boiling scene I’ve ever seen

Greetings from Australia.This is a great tutorial. I have just ordered some Blue Stuff from Spain. This will make great molds for my fishing lure making hobby. Thank you for showing the qualities and characteristics of blue stuff. From my own experience of mold making, if you want to reduce the excess epoxy putty from forming 'flash' you could try making some excess sprue escape holes by pushing soft solder wire onto the blue stuff mold at strategic points when you form your mold. This will then give the excess epoxy putty somewhere to go when you force the two halves together. Soft solder will easily follow the uneven surface of the mold half. Regards Dave

That stuff looks incredible. Thanks for the info Plasmo.

In over 40 years of model building that is the most amazing product I have ever seen. THAT is a game changer. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.

Another fantastic video from your self, the blue stuff looks like it will be another great product to add to the modellers tool kit. Keep up the good work David.

I've been using these sticks for 15 years now. Incredibly convenient. And it works with resin epoxy too.

This stuff has been around in Japan for a while and I always find that using polyester putty or tamiya light curing putty or uv bondic type resin. Since its transparent light curing putty's are very nice to work with and get into all the corners without the worry of dry time. Good luck! Also for complicated molds throw some talc powder inside molds then, Blow it out leaving tiny film of powder this will help with pulling putty out and keeps mold together for duplicates

I NEVER HAVE TO BUY THUNDER HAMMERS AGAIN THANK YOU SOME MUCH.

I've been using oyumaru for ages but never had much success with 2 part moulds. This method looks fantastic - thanks for the great video - I'll definitely give it a go!

I love the music at the start. Makes it feel like you are teaching us how to forge the Ring of Power

well some of the details will be lost but to fast fix a missing part (one pair of legs are missing for exemple) this seems perfect

a very good tutorial Sir I am amazed at the simplicity of this product

oh man I wanted to start a primaris space wolves army, this will be great for cloning all the details off the grey hunters and blood claws.

Thanks David. Appreciate the time in making this video. Would like to see you doing a motorcycle build.

Great video David, looks like a really good method of making extra parts !!

this is fantastic and thanks for showing us. Hopefully we have this BLUE STUFF in Australia.

Good stuff! This technique would be great for creating tabletop scenery that you need in bulk but don't want to have to buy loads of; crates, barrels, etc.

I turn up the sound so I can hear you then the music comes on and blast my ears.

You’re right, this one is a better version! Thanks again!

ABSOLUTELY AWESOME !!!! Thank you very much for sharing your tips. Keep yourself, family, and friends safe and healthy.

GAME CHANGER FOR MAKING OUR OWN PARTS! 🙏 THANK YOU

All that water trapped in when setting it will lead to.lower fidelity. You really need to dab it dry first

Thank you for this video. You explained very well on how to use this blue stuff.

Your kettle needs a jolly good clean..................

Genius!!!! Thanks for this. Part 36 is no longer missing from my kit!

Wow! That blue stuff is amazing!

YOU sir, are the BOMB! Thanks for posting, I'll probably be using this!

Blue stuff and resin: a godlike substance for building an army of plastic models

The epic music really pulled the video together. The Dude would be proud.

I used the exact same epoxy putty and found it brittle/breaks easily for small or thin parts. For e.g. in the video you showed briefcases and rifles. Did you not have trouble with the briefcase handles and rifle barrels breaking? I broke my parts when I was removing flash with clippers. It makes me feel like if you ever dropped your miniature, the parts would break off.

You can also use polymorph plastic. It dries up quicker and is tough to break. Just make sure you're not going to expose the finishing product to 140° F.

Great Video. I have the clear stuff and I think it just takes a little time getting used to how to handle the stuff once it's moldable. It took me a couple tries but I managed to make an awesome mold. I will cast 20 items from this mold and then I will reheat for the next one. I like that it's reusable. I am using resin and UV resin which, so far, works great. The clear stuff is fabulous for UV resin. I make miniatures and love it. Thanks for sharing!

thanx for the show - I was looking long time for something like this stuff...

looks really interesting, and looks like it works really well, would love to be able to duplicate expensive aftermarket. as always Keep up the good work! thanks

Thank you SO MUCH. Finally something I can buy and do. I am just not good with things like resins, silicone, corn starch etc.

Not sure if it’s in comments somewhere way down but a heat gun works to soften it also. Great for touch up pushes if it starts firming up.

Never heared such epic music while boiling water .... nice video/tutorial ! :)

been useing it for years and have saved me menny $ i use the stuff called insta-mould its the same

For some reason, the prices for decent epoxy clay seem to be three times higher in Germany. A pack of EpoPutty or Miliput is around 10 Euro. The domestic stuff you can buy at the hardeware store over here is also terrible: The two components are always packaged together, with one coating the other. When you try to mix them, there are bis shards of pre-reacted material in it, making it impossible to use it for fine details. In my dispair, I tried using the cheap self-hardening modelling clay sold in decoration stores, since it's only one or two Euro for 100g. I was sure that it wouldn't work, since it basicly just artificial clay with fine paper pulp in it. Would you believe it? It does work! It's the cheapest, most basic stuff and it not only works for all the details, it's extremely easy to handle. The only downsides are that it shrinks a little bit and that it's not that easy to get it to harden properly. Since it needs to dry out to cure, you have to carefully remove one half of the mold and then leave it sit for some more hours.

Bravo! The only disadvantage I can see is that your detail becomes soft below half a millimetre or so...

I feel compelled to eat one of the bars. It looks so tasty.

how exactly do you get the epoputty to dry as hard as warhammer miniatures? whenever i do this, my molds shape it perfectly, but the epoputty itself always comes to an almost soapy texture. like it feels hard at first, but if you put any pressure whatsoever on it it crumbles. i am mixing it as evenly as possible, what could be the cause?

Great video, I'm going to puck myself up some of this stuff as it looks great!

Děkuji ! I just burned my fingers on blue stuff, was too excited about this stuff :)

Wow, thank you so much for this. I'm definitely doing this.

Finally I can cast my lego clone helmets, now I just need something to paint the bodies...

Stumbled back onto this half remembering something about blue stuff molds Now I can belt out all the heavy weapons I need for my guard

Looks fantastic / keen to give this a go. I wonder how long before the GW legal goons start beating their chest :-)

You can also make one part molds that you can't get out and then just rip the blue stuff off. This is good because you get zero moldlines i find that a silicon sculpting tool is better for filling than a toothpick as you can get more pressure and you aren't in danger of piercing or scratching the mold surface.

Now I can start my new pirate figures replicas business!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

Is it perhaps better to use an alginate for character work? Alginate is not reuseable but it's a liquid, can be painted into details and can capture every pore in skin. The detail capture is a lot higher than thermoplastic molding can achieve. It also de-molds much nicer as it is very elastic. Blue-Stuff looks like it can deform soft parts, as force is needed to mold the material around the part. It also looks like it cannot deal with complex shapes. Alginates flow well around complex parts, large parts of the model can be pulled out of small holes due to elasticity... and the mold can be cut open (and keyed) with a scalpel quite easily. You can then cast white-plaster, polymer-modified gypsum, fast urethane resin or various silicones... depending on whether you want stone-like, plastic-like, hard rubber-like or soft rubber-like parts. All the Blue-Stuff and Oyumaru work I've seen seems to be poor at capturing texture detail, seems difficult to key properly and leaves a lot of 'flash' where the halves of the mold join. I'm not saying that Blue Stuff is bad. It definitely has some uses. But for characters I think detail and texture is more important than for hardware items like shields or machines.

Is there any reason you can't use the liquid resin with the blue stuff?

I doubt I will use it to make miniatures but I can definitely see me using this to make replacement parts like gears or small plastic pieces that have broken. I will definitely get some Blue stuff. Thanks for sharing. GW will not like this at all but then they need to get with the modern era. Their miniatures are far too expensive and with resin 3d printers coming down in price people will start to make their own.

looks like you lose some detail but for making a few parts, this stuff might work pretty well

i just played around with this for the first time a couple hours ago, 12 hours from now i should have my first 2 duplicated parts; i just hope the epoxy putty will be durable enough to function as figure-rise standard type joint parts

Damn, that's the same suff i have in my moughguard. I'm ashamed i didn't think of using the same material for molds :/

great video,thats exactly what ive been looking for but didnt know b4 in order to cast model spare parts,thanx,ive wanted to try for ages but didnt want to mess about with liquid resin n stuff

WOW, I was looking for something like that. Thanks for the video!

Thank you so much for this. Buying a few packs and some epoxy putty now

That BIG orange 'X' on the epoxy casing... I am pretty sure that it means either or both: "Do wear gloves when handling this!" "Do protect your breath, with a mask!" Atleast i *know* that the 'X' does *not* mean: "This has no health-risk what so ever..." *Read* and follow the instructions!!

I wonder, if you were to glue a toothpick on an inconspicuous area of the model like a sprue vent, would that give space for squishing excess putty off the model? I wonder if that would help with the excessive flash around the parts

Thank you for sharing. Very helpful, I was looking for a way to make belts of ammunition to use in a terrain display.

Posted on my birthday. Nice

Wow I'm definitely gonna have to try this stuff!

thank you PLASMO for all your posts like this #:)

Great tutorial, just ordered myself some ,great video keep em coming 😊

Thank You David on another Informative Video!

this is awesome for figures that are out of print that you want to make more of.

Great product thanks for the showing us this new product

just attempted my first, thanks for your help and btw great channel!

Now this is superb! i shall be giving it a go. Thanks David ☺

Hey bro, this video helped me out a lot. Great job.

This is a neat video. I would probably use this trick when building gunpla or resin kits so I can dupe pieces I need.

You did a very good job making this video! Thank you!

Hey man you are doing gods work. Great video you got a new subscriber.

Five ads on a 15 minute video?

Excellent! Just what I was looking for. Thanks very much.

hi, tell me please, how do you then clean Blue Stuff from the remnants of putty?

Cool material! I'm gonna have to look it up. Although I don't really have time for miniatures much anymore, I do occasionally need to make copies and reproductions of small metal and plastic parts for airsoft.

😊 thank you so much ! You are the top!

I have no idea how your molds come out so clean! I'm losing way too much detail on mine. Anybody have any pointers?

Great ideas! Thank you for telling about these useful materials and methods. The epoxy putty - is it safe to handle with your bare skin like that? I suppose with some items that are larger/thicker, we could make a hollow (dent) in both halves, or fill central space with some cheap material like styrofoam scraps, and so use less epoxy putty.

Thanks Dave!! I do something call gunpla, and this should be great! Now if I can find it here in Toronto...

This is just Polymorph/InstaMorph/Plastimake. Sold on internet in the form of small balls. And they are cheaper per gramm.

Estupendo video. Gracias Plasmo, un salludo desde Madrid.

rip GW kappa

Awesome Video ! Just got me some INSTANT MOLD (pretty similar, just transparent, not blue) and this helps as a GREAT TUTORIAL ! :)

Incredible! Thanks for sharing

Sweet. I've got a bits box full of human torsos, arms, heads and weapons... but not a single pair of legs. Been looking for a solution for a while and this seems to be it. :) Also means I can cast some of the more interesting/less common legs like kneeling, sitting, lying etc.

okay what the fuck kind of company is green stuff. Like blue stuff by green stuff. srsly who does that that. . . . . I want to be like that.

Nice video, what glue did you use to stick the milliput pieces together?

Cool!!! But can i also use epoxy resin to pour in the molds instead of the miliput you use???

Tanks! I have ordered my. "Blue stuff" and it is now in transit! 👍 Andreas, Sweden

Thank you for this video. Did you say that you cannot use Green Stuff for two part molds because they don't stick together?