Blue Yeti Not Detected, Broken USB - LFC 

Knowing how much force you can use is really tough to gauge, and the hardest thing to teach! Sometimes you also know that if you don't fix it, the customer is probably going to bin it, so you may as well full-send.

​@@Adamant_IT Which microscope or camera do you use?

Maybe for some instances but on these knobs the shafts were unusually long. Any thermal transfer would be negligible and heat would have just warped them.

Knobs such as these do not depend on any sort of adhesive to keep them in place. They will typically have a piece of metal that is the same shape as the control shaft. When properly placed they create an interference fit that is somewhat tight.

@@SerenoOunce I have good experience using hot air for removing knobs from encoders and potmeters. (After ripping a few by force from PCB's with solderpads and traces you start looking for alternatives) If you warped the knobs, either the temperature is too high, the knob isn't heated evenly, or the material is too soft. I typically start at 100 degree C, work the heat around and don't keep it in one place. Feel with the back of your hand, you should be still able to touch the button without burning your fingers.

@Mr Guru Chipquick is really expensive, and has even lower temp than 137c, but you can find 137C solder in aliexpress for really cheap almost the same price as regular lead solder, and it really helps with desoldering, not that much of a hassle to stock one roll, but yeah, not necessary, but it does help

@@gmhardware Solders with 63Sn/37Pb alloy have a low melting point, that is, they become liquid; at 183 degrees Celsius all of them. I will name 4 manufacturers: AIM, Chip Quik, Kester & MG Chemicals. A.I.M.: Model 13154 Chip Quik: Models SMDSW.020 80Z and SMDSW.031 80Z MG Chemicals: Model 4860-18 (0.6 Oz) I use low melting point 60/40 alloy solder [183 ‒ 191] degrees Celsius and any flux (both of the cheapest) to remove any electronic component. When installing a new replacement component I choose Kester brand (63Sn/37Pb alloy) Model 24-6040-0027 even though it is very expensive. If you do a lot of solder work the most sensible thing to do is to get a 1 lb spool and it will last you for many repairs and you will always have the assurance that you used excellent quality solder (no one dares to argue that they are not the standard in the welding industry). Another way of saying it, who disputes the quality of a Fluke multimeter or a Tektronix Oscilloscope? Of course these brands of instruments are NOT cheap either. To begin to become familiar with this type of solder and to practice experimentally; the MG Chemicals mentioned above is around $10 US. Thank you very much for your comment because it motivates us to investigate. All the best.

If you're on a budget or don't see yourself using one much, they make hollow-tip irons with a manual solder sucker that work reasonably well, far better than a standard iron and solder sucker. The annular tip that fits around the pin makes all the difference and it's hard to beat the $15 price tag, especially for how much aggravation it avoids.

Yea, most of the time deft hands will avoid marks, but as you say, some products are just not built to be disassembled.

There's software for the blue yeti?

@@darkerrorcode its on the logitech G hub now

Sounds like the data pins of the USB might not be soldered correctly... check those inside pins for solder bridges, or give them a poke with tweezers to make sure they're actually soldered down. The outer pins are power and ground, so with those connected it'll power up, just not be able to communicate.

It could be done, but it's a lot more work as you have to figure out how to mount a Type-C connector on there and then hand-wire it. Do-able as a project, not economic for me to do it for them unless I know the product really well already.

You'd have to use an adapter board then run some small wires. No USBC port would fit directly.

Anything is possible but would be very impractical. Tempted to swap it with a micro port but I've always preferred the older mini style that this came with, more rugged and dependable form factor.

Pinecil

Yes. Before I had a boom-arm for my mic, I just had it laying on a woolen hat. A pair of fresh ironed socks would also work, just something to act as a cushion. Shock mount is best, but literally anything is better than solid.

It already comes with a rubber one...

"usb mini thru hole" was the magic combination in the end

Yea. My beef with popular mics is that you can achieve 99% of the quality with a significantly cheaper mic if you do some setup. I'm no audio engineer, but I use a £25 Behringer USB condenser at home for twitch streaming that sounds plenty good enough. I wouldn't say it's a _good_ mic or anything, but the point is that you don't need to spend $500 on a Shure + audio interface to get Good Enough For Twitch/RU-vid audio.

Yes, adapters exist for a few dollars.

Shouldn't be any issues? What happens when you try to post a message?

@@Adamant_IT it says i'm not allowed - on repair #2

and as well as any part of it - i guess i ask stupid questions

You're trying to post in closed rooms. There is a highlighted message there saying "Don't post in these channels. Use the forum channels." Use the Support & Repair forum channels to ask support questions

@@Adamant_IT okay, thanks