I said it last episode and i'll say it again, i'm just so happy to see this car back on the channel! I know the chassis is getting acid dipped, but seeing it all one color and not covered in surface rust just feels so good. Looking forward to the next episode!!
As a German i can only say; du habs denn deutsche gründlichkeit, which means that you have the German thoroughness when it comes to detail. Good job and i hope to see more episodes in the near future. Danke schön!
The guys at Throtl wouldn’t deserve an ounce of your help, you’re like a god among mortals with your insane attention to detail, by far the best on RU-vid without debate. But man I’d love to see you work with those guys on a project, no doubt it would be the greatest thing they’ve ever done and couldn’t do without your help. I’ve been following this series since the beginning (what feels like ages ago) and my jaw is just on the floor with every video. Never stop doing what you do!!
When drilling holes ready for welding they need to be a decent size, 5/6mm, that way you can get a proper weld join. Didn't look like you had enough power/penetration to me, I would double check that 👍
Just wanted to share amateur to amateur, I'm also building a 1987 325is and have it on a rotisserie. I wanted to prevent the kind of damage to the bumper shock mounts you repaired in this episode so I built plates that fit into the mount area with holes to bolt it to the mount, welded some 2x2 square tube to that plate and then mounted all that to the bumper shock mount. I have pictures I can share but no worries if you're good with what you have. Sorry for the unsolicited input, I'm sure you get enough of it everyday. Love the videos.
Holy moly Jesus balls you are brave, skilled and patient, this would test most of us, vive la rotisserie game changer for this work, love your OCD, already looking forward to the next. M539 and Restore It best two channels on RU-vid and keep me happy for hours with armchair spannering........
Great series and content. The guys that are at Retropower did an interesting episode around the pro’s and cons of blasting v dipping. Worth watching before you commit to acid. Keep up the great work!
Interesting that it apparently adheres better to a more polished surface than a blasted surface. You'd think it would get more bite on a blasted surface. What a crazy amount of work. Gotta be the most intense resto on this model ever done!
"But I cannot sleep at night knowing the engine bay is a different color". That plus the change of mind regarding the rust treatment (going acid dip after having done so much already). Oh man, I share the same irrational anxiety. That is me, 100%, on my 240Z restoration. And at the end of the day, I am still not happy because "I would have saved so much time and money if I did it like X the first time" I admire your work though. Thorough as usual. Great video, which I am sure is time consuming.. It's awesome! And I admire your workshop!! I wish I had one as well!! Regarding the "red primer", I really don't think you HAD to do it before the acid dip. I am pretty sure it is a phosphate acid primer, which is good against corrosion for a while but weak against scratches. Simply applying phosphate acid on all the bare metal would do the same, look better and would cost close to nothing. Either way, it's done, and it's good enough. Just think about phosphate acid for the next one :)
You are doing a fantastic job with this BMW! When I look at other RU-vidrs who decided to dip their chassis I always wrote in the comments how they were planning to get rid of all the Debry of the stripped paint that stays behind in the cavities after an acid dip. But if they were even able to do so how to preserve those cavities besides using some wax oil was another thing. E coating, like in the factory is something I always wondered about if it even existed cause I was never able to find such a company. Not that I am restoring a car or anything, but I am just curious about those processes. I am really looking forward to follow your restoration, I think it will be Utterly awesome! Keep up the good work man!
Thats an insane amount of work, you really love E30's. Your drive for this is wild. Love the channel and all your projects i get to watch. Your can do attitude reminds me of another channel 'My First Boat". Different vehicles, boats, and different part of the world Germany, but similar.
Why did you not install cross braces? I could see the shell flex when you lowered the lift. This shell will now have to be aligned, unless you want to hit speed bumps in the middle of the car. not a criticism, your work is good.
You do great work! I love your channel! Just wanted to poke some advice in, may want to remove your hoody draw string. I've had mine sucked into a grinder before. Scared the crud outta me. Now I yank the draw strings out as soon as I buy them.
Da, it takes very much patience to renovate something as it should be done, not just by filling holes with bondo (or even worse spray foam, the new fashion), therefore you must have enough motivation, time, a place to do it, some "connections".. =) You do, apparently, so good for you. Don't worry if you drill a little in the underlying panel when picking spots, even if you drill through is not a big deal that weld can't cope with.. =) It might get your job waaay faster. When you repait holes on a single skin, if you can, clamp on the back a piece of copper and magically the hole will fill itself.. Cheers anyway, I'm enjoying the progress, although I thought BMW's don't rust so much.. Cheers, go on, it's too late to stop! 😉
5:32 You learn how to extract the destroyed piece without destroying the car you're restoring by learning how to extract the good piece from the car you're using for parts.
Wouldn't it be a lot easier on your back if you did all the quarter panel work on a work bench or something? My back was hurting watching you lol... keep up the good work
It would indeed Craig! I need to get some sort of bench on wheel I can wheel into the spray booth. I needed the extraction because it was such a messy job. Cheers!
Glad you found me. There are two roofs to my current workshop. One asbestos, and a metal one put onto of it... both have filthy skylights.. and annoying there are 36 in total. Im moving workshop soon, so the lighting issue will be sorted. Cheers!
It is a lot easier to drill welding points than you think, you need a M8 cobalt drill, or buy a few and resharp them, so you can have some spares and you don't waste so much time on these. I recommend you watch these 2 videos, these are in russian, but you don't need to listen them to understand, you can get the point just by watching. I was like you before, but now I don't waste so much time on these things. 1. watch?v=t70aR15XLSQ 2. watch?v=IxuHJ99SWow P.S. No links, yt will not let me post these.
you went through all that trouble of cutting out the piece just to drill out holes for the new spot weld... you should have done that in the beginning *facepalm*
@@RestoreIt посмотрел твои старые видео, ты прав у тебя до рестаил, рестаил был в сентябре 1987, после этой даты машины пошли с широкими задними фонарями и пластиковыми бамперами как твои универсалы
Steve, I’ve been watching for years now (where does the time go) and I have to say I love every episode. Yes these projects are a MASSIVE amount of work - but when they’re finished - OMG the accomplishment is just sick!!!! I was watching and remember thinking “how the hell did he ever manage in that tiny shop in Spain” when seeing the vast array of tools lined up against the work benches in the shop!!! Just know we LOVE these long episodes and while I know the recording and editing is a job by itself, you must admit documenting these projects at this level is also a value added service to these owners and posterity that demonstrates to others how to do things correctly AND not be afraid to make mistakes. Thanks so much and can’t wait to see these current projects wrapped up!! 👏🏽👏🏽
Michael, I must say this is one of the greatest comments of all time. Thanks for sticking with me for so long. Where have four years gone?! Spain was a bit of a struggle for numerous reasons, however great the weather was... Haha. Even with all of these tools, I feel like I have only 10% of what I need! It will never end... I'm super glad you're enjoying the E30 stuff as much as I am! I plan on making these episodes at least half an hour long, with a few one hour specials every now and again. Mistakes are some of the most valuable things I've done, so I plan to share many more along the way. Again thanks for the lovely comment!
@@RestoreIt As long as you’re making videos, I’m going to go along for the ride until the wheels fall off brother!! You’re a master at what you do and I’m here for it and can’t wait to see where this career will take you and your unparalleled dedication!!!! Cheers!! ♥️♥️
Great videos and keep up the good work. FYI - You can apply primer straight to blasted metal as long as it is clean. The extra roughness of the blasted metal will only help the primer adhere even better than the finish of a wire wheel. Plus, that way you don't risk contaminating the metal if not using fresh, clean wire wheels. You can also use an acid treatment like Phospho to etch and treat flash rust before priming (as long as not using an etch primer).
Hi Steve, That piece on the chassis leg, for the new piece, you should have just drilled out the spot welds, removed the old piece and weld up the old spot weld with the new piece inserted. Would have saved you hours. Loving the project, keep up the good work
Incredible amount of detail you go through to get the end result! Very much appreciate how you take the time to describe all the work you're doing and even some of the reasons why you're doing it. Not to slight your welding skills, and considering this looks like a path you're going to be going down for a long time, you might consider looking into a hand held spot welding gun, it would speed up your work and give you consistent quality. Just a suggestion for you. Keep up the good work, always look forward to new uploads on your channel all the time! Cheers!
Thanks Bartman! Glad you're enjoying it. And I would absolutely love one... I just need to be careful on the budget of this restoration. Maybe one day!
WOW that is some serious dedication! I've been following this for a while and was amazed when you went to the extent of shot blasting the entire chassis, but to then wire-wheel/polish the whole thing before temporary paint was a pleasure to watch! Totally agree with the dipping and then E-coat process as well - it will be one of the best protected E30's out there. It's making me want to get on with my E30 now. Glad to hear the Mercedes saga is coming to an end - that sounds like it's been a millstone around your neck (I know what it's like as I've been in similar situations). Keep up the good work!
When you want to use a panel, it's better to grind the spot welds of from the panel touching it, than to use a spot weld drill. Spot weld drills are good when you want to separate two panels and weld them together later. When you are just using one of the two panels; use a finger sander or a flap disc to grind the panel you are not using and keep the panel that you are using in perfect shape; no drills going too deep by mistake or deformation from using a chisel to split them.
In the case of this small front piece with the square nuts, I would have just cut off the chassis leg with an angle grinder 5mm behind the piece you want to use and then grind what is left on the piece off with a flap disc.
@@RestoreIt I commented before watching the video to the end. I later saw that you already learned that lesson and used it to clean up the pillars on the rear quarter panel. Good job; we all learn these things by doing.
Silly question, but why didn't you just drill out the rusty one since you were going to drill holes anyway, might have been a whole lot easier to extract
I wondered this too, you went around it in a way that gave you more work than you needed. If it where me, the donor car, whack the front inch off the leg with a grinder, then you can easily grind through the top of each weld with the grinder… no need for a spot weld drill, you only use those when your trying to take a part off and re use it on the same car (but I see people do this every day). Then on the car your restoring you sacrifice the bit you don’t want again, conventional drill through the spot welds, all the way through and the bad part comes away easily. Granted you would have had to use the finger sander along the bottom.
Good to see the Beemer back. Parts cars on the doorstep are a very good thing, you never know what you’re going to need, plus they’re a good reference guide when you’re trying to visualise a rebuild. Got to agree about the Finger Sander, highly useful for what it is. Great work keep at it, although i did wince when i saw you pulling at those bits of panel you cut out without gloves on ... been there too often, sliced fingers ruin your day.
Keep going budd dont stop doing what you can to get car back on the road give yourself a pat on the back as its not easy if you are inexperenced at taken that much of a projected on all i will say lot of people would have given up you have not keep going you got this never dout you cannot do this 👍👍👏👏👏👏💞💞 well done my freind you got to learn somewere no better time than jump in at the deep end🙊🙊🤣🤣🙏🙏💯%
