E30 Common Problems What to look out for on BMW E30's. Just thought I'd make a video on things to check out on your E30. More videos to come. Stay Tuned!!
Got my first e30 graduating college. Learned to change shocks, bushings, windshield, body parts (like front fenders which simply unbolt) fan clutch, water pump, radiator, dashboard, reset check lights, etc. Still have it and its still a great handling car 30 years later, compared to other cars come and gone. Shifted well, from stop lights it matches most new sport cars for a few vital seconds of acceleration (you can see the other drivers surprise) and mid range although it lacks top speed. btw, you don't need the ix, put high quality 4 snow tires on and it's more maneuverable than SUVs for mountain driving in the winter. It's no wonder it makes a great rally car.
Thanks for this video. I bought my first e30 2 months ago and you basically nailed it with all the issues I have. Luckily my car is completely rust free!
Bless your heart for taking the time to make these videos.. I don't have anyone to show me how to do repairs and regular maintenance & I can't afford to take my '89 325i convertible to a shop every time something goes awry.. I like what I've watched so far. I find your videos informative & your knowledge seems on point. Keep up the good work & keep making videos (God forbid you have any trouble with your BMW!) Thanx!
Thanks for the Vid. I bought a 1990 e30 318is ten years ago in original mint condition and i keep it dry stored in Ireland using it when I'm there on holidays.I do have the electric window issue you mentioned, thanks for the tip on that. even has the original Blaupunkt stereo and there is always a cassette of creedence clearwater in there ha. I had to replace the tyres because of perishing, had the timing chain and tensioner replaced because it was noisey, thats all. I am delighted you young guys have an interest in these e30's, their shape and interior is timeless and hopefully it will become a classic one day.
very informative vid. I have a e30 bmw 1986 model 320i car turns but wont start. have replaced the wiring harness and the computer box. need advice to fix it. lovely car
The E30 is great to work on and has a big following all over the world. Seems a lot of young lads have taken to them--a good one will last for ever. Good helpful video.
Huss Ali Yes get the timing belt fixed! My father's broke when we were on our way back from FL to IL 25 years ago. Had to rent a uhaul truck with a trailer. All the valves got bent and it ended up costing a couple grand to fix it.
Couple of incorrect things you mentioned. First, these early BMWs take very well to R134 conversions and it's a very easy and affordable upgrade. Next, the rear main seal shop time is only several hours. Unless you go to a shop that charges $300-400/hour in labor, it wouldn't come close to a $3000 repair. More like $500-800. Lastly, the failure point on these window switches is not caused by heat off the transmission. It that we're the case, the switches would get too jot to even touch. These switches develop carbon on the contacts within the switch and lose continuity. A non working switch can almost always be repaired by taking it apart and cleaning these contacts really well.
I don't know what he is talking about. Putting 134 in this system is very easy. I did my clutch in 10 hours. Shop wanted 700. I should have paid the shop for that price. Wasted a full Saturday.
He is absolutely correct. the R134 runs at high temperature and the AC compressor us unable to handle it. i had R134 filled but in less than 1 year the AC compressor went kaput. too high pressure. i had two Seiko Seiki replaced and both caused the same rupture. Eventually i went to another AC shop and the experienced mechanic told me the old system is unable to take the higher pressure and went on to put R12 which is the right one.
Billings Bimmer I noticed on the low side line that runs along the fender a 134a fitting, I agree with you about the cost and why things don't work I've Been an ase master tech for 30 years
Great video man I found a mint 318i only 71K been garage since forever cleaned her up bought a new battery she started right up I just have to get a intake boot soon
hey mate i have a a 320i e30 that i cannot get going i haave put new spark plugs in fuel pump works but would have a clue what elese it would need. would would you thnk?
I had one that lasted me 1/2 million miles. I used it to commute from LA to SF once a week. The engine was still original and unopened the day I donated it to charity. As much mileage as I put into it, I never neglect to change oil and at the rate the mileage logs up, I change oil every 2 months. While mechanically it is a wonderful car, however electronically it sucks big time. It was an era when BMW tried to copy the Toyotas and Hondas in electronic gadgetry and in combination of German engineering logic, it mucks up what would otherwise be a wundercar. Firstly, the service indicator never works. Within the first year I had it (I bought it new), the service indicator gone haywire. The circuit board was replaced, the memory enable batteries were replaced and none of the fixes to it was permanent. I finally given up trying to fix it. There was a joke among BMW owners at the time : "On-going service is mandatory for servicing the service indicator, so that the service indicator can tell you when to service your car. " Pretty ironic German engineering design if you ask me. And then the power windows, locks, and anything that has to do with electronics will fail prematurely and costing a fortune to fix. Now I have an E90 and the electronics algorithm has improved a lot both in logic and design. But then, it has evolved into a a big heavy, unresponsive car even though it is still a 3 series. However, it still retain the German genetic engineering. Why can't they simplify things ? A simple cabin temperature control turned into a gizillion switches and nobs with none of the logical thought behind it. I don't know. Perhaps Germans know best : "Vee thoughjt of everything. Vee give you all the options with all the switches so that you cannot blame us for anyding that does not work. Vee know best ven it comes to design and engineering.".
Do you know what would cause the engine to jerk when I turn the car off? I've had some belt squeal recently, so I went to replace the v-belts and it turns out that my bracket is broken and the bolts that mount to the engine block actually broke off inside the block... I'm going to hope i can get them out, but I believe this happened due to the engine jerk when turning the car off..
Hi, Rachael here, my E 30 is a 1990, with virtually no rust, clean straight body, the car has 160,000 miles with the usual maintenance jobs having been done , such as new timing belt, water pump, all fluids changed, steering boots, front control arms, and mount bushings,as well as new strut inserts. I enjoyed your video, it was well done, thank you.
Hey buddy i bought a 1989 325i conv.running I did the oil change and i try to reset the service son message went in RU-vid and learn to do the jumping the 7 and 19 pin but i couldn't find the port next to the oil dip stick. So i jumped the port in the firewell think ing that one was the right one..and after that car wont start..next day i found the right port was tucked under did the pin deal and message was reset but car now won't start.i change the relays fuses crank sensor fuel pump two ECU that i order on ebay coil unit and there is no spark few electric mechanics had told me that i need to replace the wire harnesses im very frustrated what do you think i need to do now...
Guys im looking forward to but a 1984 BMW e30 318i should i buy it i searched if there are pro lems on Google nd it said that the lower gasket or cover blowing out unexpectedly so im thinking about it wat u guys think??
Another horror to watch out for are the so called 'jacking points' just behind the front wheelarches. They were never meant to be used as jacking points in the first place with the following consequence: they'll have rotted through and give the driver and passenger wet feet. It's something I missed when I bought my 325iX Touring and am currently busy cutting it out and welding in new metal.
Very helpful video! I just bought an e30 in November, so this video is useful! I have some body rust too unfortunately! Currently I have an engine coolant leak that comes out once connected to the engine block. I am not sure if its a seal, or thermostat housing or something? It comes out almost as fast as I pour it into the radiator. Any ideals?
First determine how high up the leak is. If it's hard to see, look underneath to see if it's dripping from the water pump. Means the internal seal is leaking, and the bearing will be going soon. One thing I'm sure Dan Cronin would say is to always do water pump and timing belt together!
I bought a Euro spec 85 325e low mileage no rust but the crank position sensors are stuck in the bellhousing! guess I'll have to melt them out with a blowtorch
Great Video, My 1984 e30 316 Carb: no power steering, no AC, manual trans, no power windows, no radio, euro specs, pretty much not too much to go wrong.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I am not buying one, I own one and need to keep it running, so your suggestions help with maintenance. One problem I am mystified by is the uneven idle. Once car warms up, idol goes from 750 rpm to 1250 rpm and back constantly, any ideas why?
Is there a "sweet spot" of years to buy and not to buy or configurations to buy and not to buy? 2 dr vs 4dr? And if the shock mounts rusted, is it a deal breaker?
I have been working on an 86 325e since my father Bought it in 1988. These cars are awesome and it is amazing how long they last. However if you are not a very good mechanic or have access to one with e30 experience you should not buy one. These cars have an intermittent no spark from the coil after 25 years that even the best bmw mechanics I know and including myself have not been able to track down. I'm not talking simple no brainier trial and error tests. I'm talking checking pins on the brain and serous troubleshooting from the Bentley electrical manual. If you own this car I seriously suggest investing in the Bentley manuals.
Have a stumble like this on my E28, very similar design. Found a schematic and wow, interesting to see all the tricky analog components that create the shaped drive signal to the coil. There are two such interleaved circuits, so it's possible to ID which one has a failing component by which cylinders misbehave. Easy to say, not so easy to do! First try re-flowing all the solder joints in the ECM. At some point, buying a known good ECM may be the best route.
My 87 325i had intermittent no spark and no fuel pump. After the second computer had the same problem, I found a single small red wire flaky connection on the positive battery terminal that happened to be the main hot for the computer. It was cutting in and out with movement and vibration.
can anyone help me I have bmw e30 316 coupe 2 door windows won't open when car door are shut. but when door are open windows will open would really appreciate any help to solve this problem cheers
I really enjoy your videos and they have been really helpful but I have to ask why is it that some of your videos are done at night and with a flashlight?
I'm looking for a two door atm, got a tourin with a 2.7 custom engine and lim slip different etc that I wanna swap over 😊 can't wait too find a two door to buy
John, having owned BMWs 45+ yrs, it's easy to see that the 'sweet spot' in performance, longevity and cost is in the E28 and your E34 fiver. That said, I'm now working on a '91 325iX. My 300k (mile) E28 is starting to get rough; if something major goes it'll be bye-bye.
Hi Dan, i have a problem with my e30, car starts fine when its cold outside, but when its warm an sunny dosent want to start, no crank no start, nothing. I already changed engine starter, ignition switch and battery, still the same. I think now it can be some of the relays but im not shure. Any ideas? Thanks
i'm gettin a '91 325i E30 these couple of days.. car's been driven by a mother and has only 78,xxx on it, such a blessing! it has three dead window motors though apparently.. these things are hard to replace .. other than that, we're lifting the car first to check for under car rust as well as potential leak.. wish me luck!
Question. My 1987 bmw 325 is accelerating by itself without pushing on the gas pedal. what do you think it is? ill appreciate any information that you could give me. thank you.
+Elliot J Harris Make sure you also check the fluids not just under the car in the car, try and take it for a drive does it feel right is there a smell from the exhaust, does the transmission fluid smell like burnt toast things like this are common to look for as the engines and trans can be pretty old and burn a lot of fluid and transmission fluid that's freshly changed and smells after 1000 miles could mean the trans or something inside is seriously wrong.
+Elliot J Harris also watch out for pistons in the hood lift going out they aren't that expensive to fix but they get in the way of trying to do other repairs on the car yourself so they are a pain in the A that should have been taken care of before getting the car.
Hello, I have a 1988 325i, my speeedometer does not work however the rpm and the temp and the gas gauges are working fine, so I was wondering if you have any idea whether its an electrical problem or just the speed sensor, if you can send me a link to check where i can buy the sensor! thank you
Ahmad Sh if the cruise control still works its not the sensor!!!!!!! its the speedometer itself! you dont have to replace the whole cluster just take the gauge out and swap it out. selvage yard is good for that.
+Ahmad Sh as for the odometer not working that's another problem in and of itself because these are such old cars they have plastic gears and sprockets in the back so you have to look at those and see if they rotted or melted, as for the speedometer it could very well be electrical but you would know if you would tap on the top of the cluster. Does any needs move, if none of the gauges move at all after being tapped it's not the electrical, if your gauges tend to bounce around or ever read 0 that means that it's a gear or a wire fell out or it is indeed the sensor near the differential. source: I have an E24 that has the same problem but electrical...
this is kinda late but my 325e is smoking alot. PO said it was because he used bigger fuel lines than stock. He was referring to the ones on the bottom. The smoke is a clear color. blue or kinda white. smells strong of unburnt gas. How do i know if its a valve cover gasket or a blown head gasket?
Hmmm I bought a BMW 325e has a noteworthy oil leak. It could be the rear main seal... This video helps. I just drove it 140miles and it was smoking underneath from the leaked oil but it did not drain critically and there was plenty of oil left. It might need a replaced gasket and I bought it from a college student who probably knows as bunch as I do about it, very little. This will be an adventure!
It idols perfectly though and has a lot of power, and besides the oil it runs fine. He said he drove it 5x a week but not as much as I plan on driving it.
I picked up a 89 325i running but leaking coolant pretty bad for $400. Expenses so far: Radiator Fan clutch Timing belt Right and left side control arms and bushings Right and left inner and outer tie rods Water pump Heater & AC blower motor Fun little car to work on :)
Hey man I have had my 1987 325i for about a year now and it's had a oil leak for a couple of months and I believe it is what you mentioned in the video. How would I go about doing this? I need any help and stuff for I love this car and don't want to lose it. Thanks for your time.
Hey man im thinking of getting an e30 as my first car and my budget is $3-3500. I have no experience in fixing up cars and I wanna know if u think that I should still get one.
Absolutely. Get it before they get too expensive, and whatever you do, do not get a automatic. You'll learn how to work on cars and the E30 is a great car to learn on.
My 325e is running rich and spark plugs are black making it hard or even impossible to start. Could it be the sensor or seals? any help would be great thanks. @Dan Cronin or anyone else that has any ideas to fix this problem.
Hey! My speedometer stopped working and the problem relies in the speedometer sensor harness (because if you touch it the speedometer works but intermitently). My question is if you know how this harness is routed to the inside of the car, so I can replace it. Thanks!
There is a sensor in the back of the differential. They normally rust on there so spray it with penetrating oil to get it off. New sensors I believe are pretty cheap and can be found all over the internet.
I'm sorry I couldn't answer that question. Join the forum r3vlimited.com and post a question and I'm sure there are people who know more than me that can help you out. Thanks.
My speedo works sometimes and doesent , when I tap the dash it works for some time and conks out again , noticed the vacume gauge is connected to it , very fustrating , also have problem with headlamps and cruise control .
I'm looking for a bit of help here, recently picked up a 1990 325i and am having problems getting it to start. Symptoms point to a bad battery as all instrument gauges light up along with radio and power windows still function. The reason I know it is in fact not a bad battery is because I recently purchased a new one along with a new alternator. When I attempt to start the car nothing will happen, all that happens is the brake light on my instrument cluster will flicker. Any help is greatly appreciated
Starter tested an confirmed working. Traced the problem to the neutral/park safety switch however upon replacing I can only get the car to start when I jiggle the gear selector(automatic) what can I do I feel like I'm stuck in a money pit. :-/
Clean up all your ground points, sounds like a loose battery connection. And you say it only starts when you jiggle the gear selector? BTW check for corrosion.
I have that exact issue with my windows right now! I got in my car, dropped my window all the way down, and brought it all the way back up. Then i slid the passenger window down half way, and it got stuck 1.5inches from the top. No matter how i press the button, it refuses to go the rest of the way up. What do i do?
Grab either side of the glass with your hands and press the button and "help" it slide back up. Then buy a new window regulator and install it. Thanks!
+E30Source that was months and months ago, and dont judge me because this is my first car so i had no experience with this kind of stuff... but it was actually just the fuse xD haha i restored my e30, it looked just like yours and now i take it to car shows :P after you do the body work on these cars, they look amazing! if you want to see my car just let me know
Nice video brother, why not show a film of how you fixed the rust? Would be good to see. I have a sedan, a coupe and a convertible but like the drop top the best.. and NONE have a cracked dash! Lucky pixies. Still they all look good. Peace.
the main thing i watch for is rust and signs of previous rust repair. every mechanical thing can be fixed or upgraded easily, but the bodywork is a real pain and expensive to be done right. in my opinion e30s are pretty common and it's much easier to find one without rust than to take a rotten one and restore it.