The crystals are dried up residues from the coolant mixing with aluminium oxide. When not dried up, its actually a kind of goo clogging up the hoses and thermostat
@@RestoreIt actually, that bushing is split, and you can kinda push it out from the middle to both sides, so you can access that bolt underneath. i remember scratching my head like you did trying to figure it out, and when i moved the block around, one half of the bushing just fell out.
Anti-freeze makes some weird crystals sometimes.... And that's some very very old anti-freeze probably some ancient weird formula -.-' If it was oil it old be a watery mud like texture.
Those crystals (and similar) are often caused by stuff like dissolved calcium from hard water when you use tap water, etc. It's why a lot of people now use de-ionised/filtered water to mix with antifreeze. If the engine is in constant use it doesn't build up like that.
I added a new sound to my satisfying sounds list: 1. Breaking of morning ice crust on a puddle 2. Popping bubble wrap. + 3. Squeaky click when you start screwing off an old rusty bolt.
14:41 - Removing the thermostat pipe - that happens when you mix two coolants that don't go with each other. they are lists what coolants you can mix and not.
I think, separating a mother with her child is easier than that moter giving up it`s gearbox...🥵 a Big like from me.Luv your vids.Oh yes....Thanx for not playing stupid music in your vids...
That crystallized mess in the thermostat is just the result of tap water being used in the cooling system, the calcium just builds up and makes a mess. I saw the same thing in an M20 that I re-sealed for a customer at my shop last week.
Amazing man. Love the journey! BTW, thank you for labeling parts as they show up! Honestly it's such a small thing that goes such a long way. You are the man!
As for the camshaft, I'd go for a new one (with a bit more attitude!) The rtv in the pick up tends to find its way all round the engine & camshafts that are lubed by a spray bar tend to suffer. Budget for the top end needing more work than normal.
Methodical and organised as usual. It looks to have had a hard and neglected life. I can't believe all that stuff in the oil pump inlet. It seems you came along at just the right time 😊👍
I was thinking to rebuild e30 m40 engine but I have not so much experience with German engine so thanky bro for every knowledge you give us 💓💓💓✔✔✔👍👍👍👊👊💕💕💕💓💓✔✔👍👍👊👍👍✔✔✔✔
I’m amazed you didn’t open that engine to find a thousand broken pieces in it, given the state of the pump, mate. People who don’t maintain their vehicles have no business owning them. My team sergeant in Special Forces used to say, “Stupidity should be painful and expensive”...what I’ve found is that it’s usually painful and expensive for the next bloke who has to fix everything that’s knackered. As for the coolant goo...this is long, but the reading is good and important: BMW has issued a 1991 technical bulletin, 17 01 88(1743), which details problems with what is known as silicate gel precipitation in engines. This is the 'green goo' (yes, it actually says that in the BMW Tech bulletin - gotta love those German translators) that results as a consequence of an antifreeze over-concentration in the coolant, combined with hard water, and the phosphates commonly used in many antifreezes. BMW factory antifreeze has been formulated to prevent this problem of silicate drop-out without any coolant performance loss. This antifreeze contains no nitrites and no phosphates. The part number for a one gallon container is 88-88-6-900-316, and it costs about $13.00 per gallon.
It's the minerals from tap water & glycol from very old coolant. Best bet is to have the whole block "hot tanked" I'd also consider replacing the radiator. I know its a resto but the cost of a new radiator against the risk of an overheated Freshly rebuilt motor?
You I just find it amusing the gaskets all of them, look so much better than the parts themselves, they weren't eaten away from the inside out nor the outside in with all that corrosion... I chuckled at that...so funny and weird to see science like this every once in a while.
The stuff that came put of the oil pump pickup was crazy. I wonder if thats why the camshaft and main bearings looked pretty scored up? Great work! love the content!
The powdery residue around the inlet hoses and the gunk inside the thermostat housing, in my opinion and experience looks like straight antifreeze not diluted to the proper ratios, left to sit for a long time it can get to this state.
Really nice. This helps a lot to understand the components of the engine and how to do the tear down. Can’t wait for the 2nd episode to see the fresh and newly cleaned engine being built up again.
Good work as always. Crystals are just old coolant, particularly its it not been changed in a long time and then left sitting the coolant will have settled and then dessicated. As someone else mentioned I would have expected to see sludge or something different if it was mixing with oil. EDIT: Looks like that blockage in the oil pickup didn't do your cam much good, time for a new hot 'fast road' cam ;)
@@RestoreIt No worries and keep up the great work, you're one of the few channels that actually does real work without the all the antics that I look forward to seeing posts from. I found a similar post on another (non-BMW) forum that explains the formation of these crystals in a bit more detail: "Tap water, no SCAs,(supplemental coolant additives), incompatible antifreezes mixed and the fact the engine hasn't seen any heat in decades. Its likely silicate gelation caused by the above including using tap water and severe lack of maintenance. Its basically the coolant breaking down. Good lesson why a cooling system needs regular and correct maintenance." So in short, as I mentioned above the lack of running, combined with the poor maintence this engine has clearly had over the years, leads to what you found.
Hello, I really like your videos. I will try to remount a M43b19 (successor of M40) and maybe I will make a video on it. this engine is less interesting like M40 but I need to incrase my skills on this M43. Bye
Hi, do you know if the only diference between m40b16 and m40b18 is the crankshaft? I looked for the tecnical documentation and conrods and pistons have same dimentions, but I don´t know if they are really equals.
15:00 definitely a stop leak additive 23:45 this engine really looks terrible... look at the water passages and the rust over those cyl walls... not to mention the camshaft that has been eaten away, probably due to oil starvation (in fact the oil pickup was completely blocked with gasket material as you said looking at the sump someone did put too much sealant)... this engine is pretty much done, at 26:04 you can see clearly the cooked dry oil (this due to overheating)... don't know how it didn't throw a rod
This is way much satisfying to watch for me , the way you work and technique and most importantly the tear down as it should be , I'm excited for part two , btw you get a new happy sub 😀👍
Amazing series, sadly I just found your channel.. I would've recommended to flow your engine head, not too much, but just the extra flow with a new system flash gives it just a little bit more power and efficiency, which in my opinion, is always welcome :)!
Hope it wasn"t too painful in the editing process with all of the sub-task when I see the number of them ;). By the way, small tip, in case of rounded allen, an other way for extract them consist to "forced" a torx of +- equivalent size, more radical but can save some time. So, always a pleasure to follow your adventures and thanks to share them, I finally since last summer begin to go in the right way , sadly not with my dream car, an E30 316 carb^^ (yep their strange), but almost the same period! Good continuation form eastern France ;)!
finaly you are comming to format of elder videos - less talking. Your videos is nice, but the talking is moreover. Only natural sound of equipment and working, no talking, no music, It will be ASMR.
i can see alrady this engine can be given so much pony's back just by deleting that mechanical fan and steering pump Mercedes a class automatic EPAS pump. and a spal electric fan! and ditch some weight in the process.. ofc (the pump will add in so might make it equel in the end) atleast with me Mk3 Golf Vr6 it saved me around 6kg and in theorie ona stock motor send back 8bhp. with propper tuning it will give more space
35:40 I can tell you right away that camshaft is well beyond help,just look at what's left of the lobes! Also, I can't for the life of me understand why you would sink money into a 1.6 engine that's never seen any maintenance, you'd need to replace pretty much everything. I'd say swap in an inline 6 or atleast an M42 318is engine.
Incredible this engine could take so much neglecting.... when a engine is in this state (blacked) it had almost never oil changes. Also that clogged oil pickup tells me a bunch of amateurs used way too much rtv. I always ask myelf that question "Does the manufacturer use this?" no? then leave it as is. i still suspect that gearbox btw. Just try to inspect it! Awesome job. i know alot of these engine's normally end up in the shredder...
The crystals may be the result of a different coolant mixture. The additives used for the production of different coolants may be incompatible. Hi from Russia btw))
nice video man! awesome job... The gunk on the coolant system probably is radiator sealant you know? those quick repair liquids to stop leaks?... I've seen that on some motors and radiators.
I'm jealous. I can't find metric allthread anywhere local to me. lol That's an interesting distributor setup, but it makes sense. looks like it's driven directly off the cam instead of via a gear run off the cam. Weird oil filter setup, tho. Do the cam caps need to be put back in the same order as they came out, like the main bearing caps usually do?
IMO: engine looks quiet rusty inside, camshaft looked like car was at moon ... every other week (or maybe run with non or low oil), and you scraped seal with metal scraper. I have a feeling it would be easier to get another used engine what worked fine and resore that one. :D
Great work mate. The crystals might just be old dried up coolant that stagnated in that spot, looks rough. Id hate to see the inside of the block though might need treating or even a new block, liiks quite rough. Can't wait for part 2.
Also just an fyi, engines, clutches and most things on a car actually, have very little relevance to mileage, since travelling around town and travelling on a motorway, both covering the same distance will have VERY different results in terms of wear.
It's possible that the last owners used normal tap water that was high in minerals with a coolant concentrate, and never flushed it in the life of the car. Mixing coolant types can cause something similar as well, but generally it's an orange goo if that happens, so most likely an additive. Maybe 'radiator fix'
Good to see there's still people fixing stuff instead of just throwing everything directly in the trash. I just feel sorry for people who do not want to learn. It's a choice, plain and simple.
FYI those core plugs (freeze plugs), easiest way to do them is to deform them first. Use a large punch or even a bolt right in the centre and give them a good hard hit with a hammer until you leave a large dent. Deforming them this way will pull the sides in and make them easier to remove.
same thing over and over,I have been watching this channel since you were in the UK,then moved to Spain,and then came back to the UK,and not a single car been finished,so why start another project?
The crystals depend on where you are in the world and what your country allows in antifreeze. Here in America that's most likely aluminum added to help seal small holes in the coolant system. It is also the reason why you do not mix different types of coolant such as dec cool and plain green. You get a reaction and it plugs up the works.
couple things to help, When using a rattle gun, try to use as little extensions and adapters as possible, all those joints absorb the shocks use rattle guns on stuck bolts, generally thell remove them without snapping them and use the breaker bar more, putting loads of load on ratchets isnt a great idea Nice video cant wait for part two!
Hi mate, I think the block is shot , the rust inside in each cylinder ... I'm not sure it's possible to recover it . What about crankshaft? How is look like?
Engine had been overheated due to coolant leak. It often had water as a coolant - white powder. And finally owner decided to fix the leak by adding a special chemical - white crystals near the thermostat
Another cause for the crystals in the housing is mixing 2 different types of antifreeze which is not recommended manufactures have different formulas the can react poorly with each other and cause damage and sludge build up to the coolant passages and hoses
Не понимаю зачем тратить время , силы и средства на то чтобы чем то заливать и чистить блок от ржавчины! Можно ведь приклеить скотч в нужный плоскостях и отпескоструить , результат великолепный и экономия всего!
