Good video and thanks! Just did this on a e36 that i just bought climate ctrl wasn't working, nothing would light up and watched your vid went to a local radio shack and bought a 47uf 50v capacitor for $1.49 got home installed it put it back together and it worked flawlessly you saved me $100-200.
Hi, followed your instructions to the letter and now have a perfectly functioning climate control again, you saved me $150 for a second hand unit, keep up the good work, many thanks from the land down under.
I want to thank you and drlunch who basically shows the same repair. My temperature control unit was acting up. On-off,some part on... a mess. I asked companies to do it for me but they said it wouldn't work so for $10.80 I bought a solder iron, soder, soder sucker and a resistor. Carefully watched both your videos and 30 minutes later: BINGO! Back in business. My suggestion: squeeze the housing (left/right/left/right etc) to pull the circuit boards out. Thanks again!
Very helpful to know how all the bits fit together thank you so much. I didn't actually replace the capacitor but just resolved it. A friends advice who said it might be just a dry joint. Anyway, now working fine. And the benefit of courses not just saving money but the inconvenience and delay. Thank you again.
I believe so - my unit would went crazy on me - starting without any prompt, stopping and all of the above. The fix is so simple and cheap I'd highly recommend doing it if your unit is not functioning properly.
This was great, took me about 5 min to do everything except the desoldering and soldering. The hardest part was to take out the old solder that took me quite sometime then it was just a walk in the park.
Thank you for this video. Very helpful in fixing my Climate Control unit. I couldn't find a .47uF50v cap. I ended up using a 1.0uF 35v cap from radio shack. I read that >.47uF 35v will suffice. It actually works now and saved over $100. Again thank you
Hey everyone! You can purchase the correct resistors on Amazon. The retailer is DataAlchemy. See the poster's comment below to select the correct capacitor.
My unit was very sporatic prior to the fix. I would set it to max and it wouldn't blow any air. Then for no reason it blew air for 5 mins then quit. So, it was obvious something was very wrong with it. Check your basic fuses first then I would move to this. The fix is very cheap and simple so probably worth a try.
Thanks. Pursuant to your video instructions, I replaced the Climate Control capacitor with a new 47uF 50v on my E36 328i Convertible. Digital display problem solved. Al
Wow - Depending on the required fix - I hear the blower motor can be very time consuming and difficult to replace... maybe that's what he was quoting. Hope this fix works for you as it is certainly cheaper!
Yeah - I'm fairly sure that this would cover 1998 3-series as that is considered an E36 (1992-1999). There is some overlap as the E46 also came out in 1999. Good luck with the fix and let me know if you need any help.
I had trouble with that also... there are two tabs and I believe if you insert the screw driver in the front and pry the outer shell out while moving the circuit board inward you'll release the tabs and then just slide it out.
It should only take a very small amount of solder and just be careful not to burn the board with the soldering gun. What were your starting symptons... did run sometimes and then black out? Have you tried the Final Stage Resistor?
Barry, on my 1993 525i e34 the AC, Recirculating and rear defogger buttons do not light up. AC doesn’t work. Could your capacitor fix work. Thanks from BC Canada.
No air blows (hot or cold) so before i take apart the car and check the blower i figured i would try this. All the lights in my unit work properly no flickering so do you think swapping the capacitor can be of any benefit since the unit appears to be in working condition. Thanks, good vid.
Great video. I realized when I went to do this that I already did it years ago. Now, it's kind of a mess and I can't identify which trace the outside pin connects to. You can see the big inside one next to the blue jack on the top. Do you know which one the other goes to? My screen is now completely black when connected. Strangely, when I did it years ago, the Radio Shack capacitor didn't work and when I put the original one back in, it did. Until now. PS my blower was intermittent, but all the other lights worked. Until now.
many Thanks from Spain Tenia la misma averia en mi Bmw 318tds y simplemente con cambiar el condensador como tu explicas ,problema resuelto!!!! yujuuuuuuu solo por 0.37€ . ademas tengo otras dos unidades de control del climatizador sacadas de un desguace y q me fallaban igual,ahora tambien las arreglare con tu sistema. Gran ahorro Thanks
Let me know if you have any questions Misho Misho - I'm happy to help. It's been over a year now since I fixed mine and published this video and it is still going strong!
I went to Radio Shack and all they had was 47uF, 4.7uF, .047uF, and .0047uF caps and not .47uF. So I compromised and got the 4.7uF one. Seemed to fix the intermittent on/off problem (so far). I did notice someone that had the car before cut one wire off the fan inside it. I resoldered it and I can hear it stays on. Is that normal?
I have a problem with my climate control (not digital)318i 1992 why the fan always on about 5 minute even i`m not turn on the ac,may be u have the solution sir thanks.
I have an BMW X3, 2007, and i hear a noise coming from the inside of the ac control unit, looking like a noise from the mini fan that gets the air from the inside car, to measure the ambient temperature. It seams that something in the ventilator/fan/pump of the sensor is with some problem. How can i fix it ? Best regards.
I am not a soldering expert....i bought a kit from fry's and the exact .47uf and i cant get any power to my unit still....so im sure im just not soldering it good enough.....any tips?
I think i have the same problem on my E36 318i but tell me before you take it off the car is it still blowing air because to me it doesn't blow air even when i set it to max
I don't know but this fix is so cheap and easy I would give it a shot - worse case you end up with a new capacitor and the experience. Let me know if you need any help.
There are basically two possible resolutions - the fix outlined in this video or the final stage resistor. If your unit is going off and on randomly then I would start with this fix. If you remove your unit and see the square blue capacitor then I recommend replacing it. Hope this helps.
i need help with my pacifica's heat control unit. the unit is digital, it goes dark by itself some times and if i tap it or hit it, it comes back on. i have to control over the fan speed, the fan speed constantly blows on high, i have replaced the resistor and blower motor and still same problem. what is going on with my unit? thanks
Hi Barry, What's the difference between "Polarized" & Non-Polarized"? I went to Fry's & ended up buying the wrong capacitor. I bought a 47MFO 50V (Non-Polarized) & not the .47UF. Would Polarized & Non-Polarized make a difference? Not sure what the difference between a 47MFO versus a .47UF is as I'm no electrician.... Also, When removing the ACU from the dashboard, there are 2 wires behind the ACU that need to be disconnected in order to entirely remove the ACU. One is the blue piece that has colored coded wires attached to it. The second wire is black. What is the second wire's function? I ask because the plastic mechanism at the end of the wire that fits into the ACU broke off. Any way to reattach, reconnect and or solder the black plastic mechanism back to the black wire? Any input you have would be really helpful, thanks!
Polarized capacitors are for DC applications and Non-polarized are for AC applications if I recall correctly. An automotive electrical system is DC - Direct Current... Your home system is an example of AC - Alternating Current. Regarding the black wire I'm afraid I can't provide much help other than to say it needs to be reconnected. If the clip broke then you will need to find a way to secure the wire to the connection point. If the wire pulled out of the clip then you may be able to bare the wire and reattach to the clip.
unfortunately for me, it looked like this trick had been tried as it had a similar capacitor as the one I was going to use to replace it. Sure enough, didn't work. Screen must be dead. I used a 1.0uF capacitor.
Rvisiting this, the trace that the one leg of the capacitor solders to is fairly obvious, it's wide and goes right to the hole. I can't see what the other leg solders to. Is it the blob of solderon the other side next to the hole, or to something on top? Is there a circuit diagram to confirm? Lotta fun today; it's 72 degrees and with the unit out of the car, the heat blows full bore. I'd like to fix it before my two hour trip tomorrow
How can one pin point if it's the capacitor or the fsu? Mine turns on and off randomly and only blows hot air. It'll blow hot air through the windshield and my feet randomly too and the climate control isn't even on
Unfortunately, I've only found the process of elimination to work best. I start with the final stage resistor and when that didn't fix it I replaced the capacitor. If your symptoms are similar to what I described then start with the capacitor.
I have a 1997 BMW 328i and my odometer had this issue. I followed the 1st guy on this forum, he left a pdf on there. I think in your case you may want to follow this link www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/Borrowed/e36-climate-control-repair.htm
My control climate unit , after I turn it off, a noise is hearing from inside for 20-30 seconds... HEEELP ME ! Also AC is working ...... thanks a lot to you.. hope help me ..
Sounds good! If you've got an E36 this should work well. Let me know if you need any support - just send me an e-mail (BarryHasenkopf@yahoo.com) and I'll be glad to assist.
@@barryhasenkpf2989 yes i found polorized 470nF 50v capacitor But i dont know how to put it i dont know the positiv and the negative side in the circuit Can u help me
FYI - My email is BarryHasenkopf@yahoo.com and I charge $10 plus shipping both ways... in other words, just send me your unit with a return package and $10 I'll send it back with the correction.
