While I have no plans on changing my interior bulbs to LED, just because I prefer the warm glow of the oem bulbs, thanks for showing me how to change those bulbs. My rear reading light bulb needs replacing.
Thank You for turning me on to ECS Tuning and the LED installation. I’m not that handy, but You showed me exactly how to do it and it was a successful installation! Thanks again!
Just did this upgrade.. easy to do... just one plastic tab broke on the C pillar light, one of the tabs holding the light board in, just gonna leave it for now. Looks great!
I don't know why but it's so relaxing to watch your videos. I love it. You're so calm and fun to listen to. Keep up the good work man. LOVE your m5. Im currently running a 530ia 03 but a m5 is on the way (already facelift hehe)
Just a heads up for new E39 owners. On my first E39 I had a battery drain problem and it turned out to be the glove box light switch not being fully depressed (fixed with a small rubber circle affixed when the switch makes contact). So if you have a battery drain issue, don't forget to make sure the light is actually going off when you close the glove box.
I believe that the stock halogen halo bulbs in the stock housings are the same as the map light bulbs, so I’m probably going to try the LED bayonet bulbs in the stock housings for cheaper LED halos.
Did you have a hard time with the bayonnet bulbs in the dome light install? I cant get them in, if i put the old bulb in it works but cannot get the leds to fit in right?
@@alinalinu1709 Well looks I have this problem now. Why does the dome reading lights work only with the old light bulbs, the LEDs dont even turn on when installed and the LEDs are brand new.
great vidi, love how u Cruz through the installs and I'm all thumbs. Hey, Are the map lights and trunks on #4 fuse? I'm not getting any juice out of #4. Is there somewhere else the circuit has a fuse or breaker?
i was going to change mine but after watching this ,im just putting new normal bulbs,in led just point in one direction .the older bulbs shine all over realy warm and brighter .and soon you will see lots of bmws on fire roof lining burning away
Got a cheap kit for china, i like the white look as it look more modern and bright light works great in the night. BUT it can be a bit too bright to me... and looks kinda cold compared to the good old halogen.
Where do you guys buy your angel eye leds? are they 5,6 or 10w? Ive gone through a bunch of 3 5 and 6 watt sets already that i've purchased from different vendors. They all begin to fade and become dim, usually one becomes dim first so it looks like one side is dim. Great vid thanks
The angel eyes in my M5 right now are the 5W LEDs from Ebay. Never tried the 10s. I've had the bulbs that I do now for two years, and they look identical to new ones, or when they did when I bought them.
Hi, do you have any experience with MTec products? I hear they are of great quality. I have installed their angel eyes LEDs on my e39 530i about 4 years ago with no problem since then, and recently put their licence plate LEDs which are I believe TWICE as bright as out f10 535i. Considering to get their other products, but I'm afraid they will be too bright...
the kit is a bit pricy, I would love to replace my original bulbs for LED's but I can't spend that much money as of right now. great video though keep them coming
HAHA AMG's rear licence plate LEDs are too bright IMO, I used festoon LEDs inside the OEM housings like the other E39 in the shot and it looks perfect, in fact I went for 4000K ones just there as in the UK our rear licence plate is yellow anyway.. I've heard some people complain about the 6000K interior lights feeling too cold on an older car, making everything look even more dated on the inside than it was before, not sure about that.
my rear puddle lights were really loose, one was almost hanging out, and covered in mud, but the lights were in tact, inside the hole it's all wet on both sides, i think the holes in the rear door inserts were too long.
E39 rear door vapor barriers are known to leak and allow water into the door panels, which slowly rots the material and means that the lights don't fit tightly.
@@E39Source yeah that's likely what it was, if the chipboard inside the door card gets wet, i took the door cards off all 3 doors that i hadn't worked on lately and both rears the barriers were nearly falling off and lots of mould at the bottom so putting in new barriers and butyl tape. hopefully the lights will fit snugly now or i'll have to put some tape around the tab or something. I assume there's not much you can do with the degraded chipboard inside the door cards, like coat it in something to keep it firmer once it's dried out? I found a bee inside the overhead front light assembly lol there was no gap around it, dunno how he got in!!
@@fabiandee8178 I've never found a great solution for that, but I'm sure you could spray something from the inside to add body and make the opening 'smaller' so the light fits better.
@@JRSVlog some guys suggested spreading epoxy on the inside in the weaker areas, particularly where it's damp damaged, i tried this around the light opening earlier today, will see how it works.
If you have a 2003 E39, this kit may not work for your car, doesn't work for mine. One of my trunk bulbs is different, all of my puddle lights are different and my glovebox light is different as well. ECS had no answers for me, so they just sent a refund and let me keep the kit. I'll need to source my own LEDs and hope the color temp is close enough. If you have an 03, everything is weird vs 98-02 it seems.
Hmm, this should not be the case. I have installed this very kit on a few 2003 E39s for my customers. I'm betting that somebody has replaced your lights with aftermarket units in the past.
@@E39Source I had the same thought, but all 4 puddle lights are OEM BMW and match, same situation for both trunk lights. The whole car is weird. Zionsville's fan kit didn't work the way it was supposed to and I ended up drilling holes and welding bungs in to run relays. My rear diff ring gear bolts were a different size than everyone said they'd be and my ECU requires some obscenely expensive programmer vs the 30 dollar cable that earlier cars use. According to the indy shop I've taken it too, it was fairly stock before I started bolting in the fancy parts.
Has anyone experienced as issue with the led dome light from the kit staying lit very dim? All the other bulbs work fine and turn off as expected. Wondering if it's a defective bulb or a different issue.
I have noticed this in mind as well. LEDs are very sensitive to voltage, and will illuminate with a very small amount of current- which the E39 must always have at that fixture. It has not been a problem for me.
Hey Ryan, how hard would it be to replace the interior chrome that's located at the top of the door panel (between the window and the door panel). My e39 m5's chrome is seriously faded and unsightly. Where can I order this part?
Hi All my dashboard lights including the windows switch lights was flickering and now stopped working!! I heard it might be the main light switch need to be replaced. Any recommendations? Thank you
Sounds like LCM failure to me. I would recommend scanning the LCM (light control module) with software for faults/codes, which would also indicate a bad switch.
I am planning on getting this kit for my E38 and In your honest opinion, does this kit worth $100? or a better option is to find the bulb #s and buy them individually from amazon/ebay/superbrightLEDs etc ? Thank you
+Roman Moroz I think it's worth it. All of mine still work beautifully. If you like the whiter, brighter light, it's definitely the product I would go with!
@@E39Source ah ok. That sucks. I'm in canton. To bad your not still in ohio. Just picked up a 99 528i. Will definitely be putting alot of your videos to use
@@E39Source absolutely. Thanks. Always been a dream to own a bmw. Has its issues for sure but theres enough content on RU-vid and I'm mechanically inclined enough to be able to fix it I think I'll be good. Thanks for all the awesome educational videos
There are several different sizes depending on the application. All of these are listed on ECS Tunings instruction manual which is found in the link in the description box.
E39Source thank you. I’m debating right now whether or not to buy two or one stock bulb. But then again I’m not sure what exact LED kit I should buy. If I buy the kit that means I can switch out and have all new bulbs in the car correct ? Change them at the same time.
E39Source this is what I’m checking out now. In the description is doesn’t say how many lights come with it for 50$ I’m guessing 4 lights. Because there’s two lights in the back seats of the car the dome lights.. www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-parts/led-overhead-lighting-kit-sedan/e39intkt2/
@@nicksantoro6183 I would buy the kit that includes all of them, like I did in this video. The product details list which bulbs are included in the kit that you linked.
E39Source hi again, so I’m looking at this kit ES#2523973 apparently this is the one you have listed in the description to your video. In your description you have each piece listed it equals 17 bulbs, in their website under “kit contents” it lists 18 bulbs, is one extra ?
Would you recommend the interior LED kit from Umnitza? I haven't really seen any reviews on it as yet. Link: www.umnitza.com/the-original-interior-xenon-led-p-1164&b4a02ef9a3ddc17e2103d67eede9372f.html
Very useful video. I'm in 2 minds about whether to do this or not. I guess I'll see how the exterior xenon and LED updates go first. Seriously though, you guys need to buy trim tools. I have seen a number of your videos when you use screwdrivers and knives on plastic trim or body work and it makes me wince every time. I know these cars aren't worth that much but still. Trim tools can be bought extremely cheaply. I think you should set a good example to other E39 users, or they will just pick up bad habits from you guys lol...it also makes it look amateurish, even if you know what you are doing. Just my 2 cents.
We now use the ECS several piece plastic pry tool set. However, sometimes, the taped screwdriver offers more strength and control. If one is careful, they can be just as much, if not more effective than standard pry tools. I do however agree- plastic pry tools are the proper tool for this job and I encourage anyone reading this to use them.
Good for you. I hope I didn't come across too rude! Before I got a set of plastic trim tools, I used to use a screwdriver or two with masking tape over it and it was ok for some applications for sure. However, if things go wrong and it slips out, it can still carve up the paintwork as the blade pokes through the masking tape (you can only put so much tape on it before it becomes unusable) so extra masking tape over any 'overspill areas' on the body as preventative protection aren't necessarily a bad idea for fiddly, high torque/muscle and risky jobs.
