This is absolutely perfect and very helpful. Will be using this to adjust my KW V3 rear ride height, which is a pain without removing the adjuster and rear spring. Thank you for a brilliant video. Subscribed.
Great video. You have given me the confidence to do this myself. I had a shop quote me $1200 just in labor for the front only for this, (Robbery) while my trusted hometown Indy said $300. Rear was easy, front looks easy since I have the pass through sockets. Thanks again!
Great video thank you. I’ve just spent the past two days removing my stock M2 Comp suspension and fitting Litchfield Nitron suspension. First shakedown drive tonight and no squeaks or banging, just nice compliant damping. I found this video very useful, thanks for taking the time to share it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@FaRKle0079 our B roads here in the UK tend to be full of undulations and broken tarmac. The stock suspension is fine for smooth German roads but over here it was way too stiff. In the tradition of Lotus and McLaren, Litchfield have chosen springs and damper valving that allow the car to breathe with UK roads. It now feels like it can attack a road with greater traction and keeps the tyres in contact with the ground consistently. The dampers feel like they’re filled with warm chocolate rather than nitrogen. Feels really good and has 20 clicks of damping stiffness to increase if I ever want to go on track. Very happy
Your thoroughness always impresses me - great job! Look forward to meeting up to discuss the suspension travel, motion ratio, and damping / handling observations from your M2.
Great video. Great detail. Thanks! I'm about to coilovers on my M2C... Not sure how I'm going to be able to pre-load the suspension though... Unless I just jack up the wheel to roughly the right height....
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful and professional video! I would have 2 questions: why is the torque so different between the two 18mm nuts for the front and the rear strut? 38 vs 71 Nm? 2. Question: for the torque for "top mount to shock tower bolts" (not shown in your video) there are two values depending on the bolt size (M8 vs M10). But which BMW has M10 for the strut mounts?
Thanks! 1) The rear shock isn't a "locating member" of the suspension. If you took out the shock, the suspension would sit in the same place. For the front, the strut is a locating member that determines how the suspension sits and is thus subject to more forces. 2) Almost all F8x are M8 thread for the front top mounts. M10 was only like the first year of production or so.
Great tutorial! Question regarding the Amazon Crescent pass-through socket set, which will cover both the front and rears. The compromise seems to be that you have to apply the torque wrench to the 10mm hex of the damper shaft (and not the large nut). Is that OK? I presume so, given there will only be a small rotation of the shaft as you apply torque?
It was just a cheap etorx set from Amazon. Something like this will do:www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Socket-Chrome-Vanadium-13-Piece/dp/B087V5QYT9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=27YD53B0QD6T7&keywords=e+torx+set&qid=1651793675&sprefix=e+torx+set%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-5
hi, thank you for this video which will help me a lot in replacing my M2 competition shock absorber; I just have one question: When you use your jack to compress the spring, when do you know exactly when to stop jacking? (I use Google, translation, I don't know if I made myself understood correctly)
different subject about ride height- have you come up with a way of raising ride height on the front of an F22 stock shock? I saw your suggestion for the rear, which I will use.
I haven't found a way to continuously vary the front ride height. That said, you can raise the front end a bit (up to about 3/8") by putting a spacer/shim in between the thrust bearing that sits on top of the spring and the top mount. You can make this out ABS/Kydex or Delrin pretty easily (probably easier with Kydex and a hole saw).
