Thanks Brian! Yep, all of my first time jobs on my 535 is intimidating. However, following each job, it's a huge confidence builder. You are correct, I can do it, especially with the great video that you made which contains your step-by-step narrative, including resetting the electric motor manually. Once again, great video!!! You had covered all of the bases by mentioning the tricks and potential traps. I have to find the torque specs for the caliper bolts as I'm not an arm wrestling champ but I'm working on that too!
Thank you Brian. Love the video. My son just bought a BMW 535I today. Your video will help me saving some $$$. Don't need it right now due to under warranty but will be great for future needs. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Hi, Many thanks for going to the trouble of putting this video together with a very good picture and audio, it is very much appreciated. In the end my job was made easier by the fact that BMW on X5 F15 2.0L Diesel S-Drive (Australian model) have relocated the electric motor away from either rear calliper ... I suspect this might be the same for other X5 F15 Models, but I don’t know. The BMW X5 F15 2.0L Diesel S-Drive (Australian model) also use two E-Torx E14 bolts to attach the rear calliper on its mounting bracket. It’s the same on the front too ... and both are single calliper pistons. I can’t recommend it but I had no trouble using my standard 14mm socket to remove them. I’d anticipate as you move up the model range the bigger callipers will use bigger bolts. I also changed the rotors and on this BMW X5 F15 2.0L Diesel S-Drive (Australian model) they use a 5mm Hex to attach the rotor to the axel hub in addition to to the wheel nuts / lugs. Thanks again for posting the video it is very much appreciated. Regards, Matthew
@6:55 any BMW scann tool "specific" (in general) will perform this. They range from $150 - $250 such as Schwaben, Foxwell (same thing just rebranded) of course the scanner can do many other things other than retracting the e-brake to change brakes. But as noted, yes, for those that dont have the scann tool then this is how you do it. However one thing to note, if your brakes get low enough to trigger the sensor in which you would have to replace it, the brake warning "may not immediately clear" when trying to reset from the Dashboard or even with a scann tool. Sometimes its would clear immediately and sometimes it takes a few miles of driving to cycle for the system to accept the "Reset".
I wanted to say thank you so much for your video. I was struggling to understand how to push back that rear piston. I have a 2021 BMW X3 with the electronic Park , and your video came in really handy today. Thank you!! thank you!! thank you!!
Excellent video, high image quality, technical details and explanation, even though my English is very bad. Please note that you did not change the pheno sensor, when should it be changed? Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge
Thanks, very well explaind and it was a great help. I almost bought the service computer ))) But this way it was 15 minutes each side, like normally )))
Great help thanks. Once I watched your vid a few times I had it sorted. 2nd one took me 3 hours but that was because I am so fussy and cleaned everything and sprayed caliper red. Oh and it rained. Typical in the UK. Thanks now for the front....??? Graham Liverpool UK
Thank you, sir! This really helped and saved me about 2k. So I went to the dealership to get the brake light reset, and they said well, it should have changed automatically when you put the new sensor in. But for 80 bucks we can run a diagnostic. According to them, there is no way to reset it🤣🤣🤣 long story short saw a video and pretty much the door has to be closed and the ignition but has to be pushed once. Then you're able to get the rest options to populate. But I was like wow, they're full of crap
Get rid of those silly expensive sensors. Cut the line, strip the two ends, twist them together, and cover it with heat shrink. It's just a profit center for BMW.
i'm a Chrysler Tech and its funny how the German do not provide a way to release these to anybody, some new Chrysler cars have Electronic rear parking brake but there is an option in the Radio called rear brake service that allow you to realase the caliper no need for expensive scanner
I just put another battery power to release it,and when put it back.just put power slowly until disc not turn .and then use the power release it a little.
I followed all instructions and it was easy. But I didnt bleed it after the change and it seems to be fine. Not like a standard brake job I normally do. Did you bleed yours?
Can you tell us (if possible) what is the brand of the caliper Bosh, Bendix,...? Because I think we'll meet those on other cars. Thank you. By the way, your video was really nice and clear.
I just changed my break pads and followed these instructions to the tee. Went for a test ride and it takes 3 pumps before breaks actually catch and stop. first pump pedal goes all the way down to the floor second pump half way third pump stops on point. when I resume to drive the process repeats itself. Did I do something wrong, what could be the problem?
What year and model BMW is this? I watched this because I have to do the rears on my 2013 X5 (E70) and it seems your calipers are a good bit different from mine.....is there any chance that the ebrake motor setup will be different?
Great video, you can do the same thing on a VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda! Question: What kind of grease do you recommend for slidepins? I used ordinary axlegrease when i changed my pads a week ago, is that ok? Thanks for the videos, keep it up!
+Joakim “Jockas” Eriksson Great news! You can still probably pull them out and clean it off! Seriously, non synthetic purpose specific grease sets up like loctite red on those pins. You have to heat the bracket up with a torch to get them back out after they've cooked the bearing grease and seized in real good.
Hey I just did my brake but accidentally the pressure plate came out all the way and spilled brake fluid if that’s what it was I tried putting back together but brakes weren’t working like they use to . Do I need a new motor ?
