Clark... I agree with everything you talk about in this video, and I want to further emphasize all your good advice by telling this rather long story from my life experiences. I hope that this will save someone from having problems. I, therefore, am re-posting the following: My Father in Law was in the production side of the movie business with Warner Bros. Columbia all his life. I should say here that he was a very serious man, (ex-Navy) who rose to be Director of Operations at Warner Bros. Columbia before he retired. So I have no reason to doubt this story. This is what he told me: Years ago, on location, in the middle of winter in one of the Northern States, a movie scene required a Longboat full of Fur Trappers to be shown rowing upstream. The current on the partially ice-covered river proved to be too strong for the actors rowing the boat. An outboard motor would show a wake, so that was not an option. So, the crew came up with the idea of using an old Caterpillar Dozer from a nearby ranch. It had a winch upfront that they figured could help them pull the boat upstream. They build a little fire under the oil pan, so they could crank the old thing over and get it started. The problem was that the way the director wanted to shoot the scene, there was no way to hide the Cat or the winch cable, so they decided that the only solution was to submerge the cat with an operator in the river. Among some other things, they extended both the air intake and the exhaust up, took the fan belt off, got it started, then took the remaining electrical gear off and drove it underwater where the operator in scuba gear worked the winch. Some greenery on top of the cat hid anything that showed above water, and that did the trick. The moral of this story is, that if a Diesel engine gets AIR, CLEAN FUEL and you manage to TURN IT OVER, it will have to start. (Of course, new clean fuel is of no value if old dirty fuel has previously clogged the injectors). Also, if you want to keep it running, keep it cool with clean oil in the pan. Running seawater through a cooling system is also asking for trouble. Even with a heat exchanger, where seawater is pumped to the engine mounted exchanger. It is one of the most problematic systems on any boat. I see it over and over as one of the main causes of engine failure. This is why most commercial boats (and all the boats I build) were keel cooled … meaning that the coolant is actually piped from the engine through the keel or a pipe on the outside of the hull to cool the Coolant before returning it to the engine. No seawater ever touches the engine! I would try to do my best to convert any sailboat to keel cooling, just to keep seawater away from the inside. I also would eliminate all through-hull fittings by going to a single valve Sea Chest. Look at the Rolls Royce of cruising boats... the Nordhavn line. Yes, they are mostly Trawlers but there is a way of getting that done on a sailboat. Commercial boat engines when rigorously maintained can last for up to 40 000 hours. I build four steel commercial fishing vessels in the early 80”s. The last one, (my profile picture) weighed out at 140 tons. All of them, as far as I know, are still floating and plowing the waters of the Bering Sea. Two of them were accidentally run on the rocks, pulled off, repaired and put back into service. I always installed several Heavy Duty (Racor) Fuel Filters on a manifold system (like you). They could quickly be switched over when one of the filters failed. Also keep in mind that the most likely and worst time for dirty fuel to reach the engine is in bad weather when the boat gets tossed around, and old sediment gets stirred up. Not a good thing under the best of circumstances. It is also important that one frequently inspects the filter(s), and that one can visually see the sediment or any possible water in the glass bowl under the filter. There should be a drain cock. A crappy filter, with a metal bowl, which is many times standard factory issue, will filter your fuel, but will not let you see what you got until you open it up after the engine fails. To further prove my point. In the early ’70s, before GPS, I was single-handing my sailboat just south of Punta Abreojos in Baja on a stormy night when I ran aground on a sandbar. As the boat was pounding in the surf, the portholes blew and submerging the cabin and of course the Engine. Long story...At low tide the next day I managed to get the engine started again. I did that by hand cranking it with the De-compression lever pulled. The minute I let that lever snap, that little Volvo got everything it needed, i.e. clean fuel and air and away it went. I cannot overemphasize the importance of clean fuel. Sadly, the shaft was bent and I lost the boat. I never had a problem with anything Diesel I have ever owned, because I always went overboard on fuel filtration. The only Diesel that ever let me down was a piece of crap Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup Truck. The timing belt broke, and the engine exploded. I take comfort in knowing that it was running on clean fuel until it took its last breath. Long live Rudolf Diesel! I truly love your channel. You are both great resourceful trailblazers and a credit to the sailing community! Good Luck to you both.
Thanks Karl. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers. My only problem with keel coolers is there is no good way to cool the exhaust. That and when the cooler (which is in salt water) fails it's much harder to fix. Good points on every thing. Was planning on talking about rough seas and clogging filter but forgot during filming. That is best reason to use the booster pump. Not fun changing filter in bad seas.
Good video! I should mention that it made me nervous watching that uncapped used oil jug! From experience the first thing I do is snugly cap any oil bottle (fresh or used) unless actually using it. Also, I don't recall you suggesting a new fuel pump and gasket in your spare parts list- they're inexpensive, small, and oh-so vital. Finally, always use fresh oil (not used) to lubricate the new oil filter. And I personally preload my new oil filters with fresh oil to thoroughly wet the filter media with oil- doing so will reduce the amount of time your engine runs before it sees oil pressure (always a good thing!). I think Amsoil makes a filter system for diesels which not only removes contaminants, but water- this would be a good way to go for your bypass filter system. Happy sailing!
I love diesel engines, they have always served me well. 3 basics diesels need, are Clean Oil, Clean Fuel, and Clean Air. tbh, for the first 1,000 hours of running, I'd change the Oil Fiter, as even though tolerances are tight, you can still get metal bits from wear in, that get caught by those Oil filters, and I don't like taking Chances, it's worse for Gearboxes and Saildrive legs, because No Filters. Change or Clean, depending on type, Fuel Filters, and use biocide additives in the diesel tanks, and occasionally add injector cleaner additive to the most direct diesel tank feed when you are going to have a long run on engine power. Diesels do love Working but it doesn't have to be too hard to get the benefits with good fuel economy. Carry a spare Air cleaner, or get a decent Cleanable one, as you can find yourself sailing I'm very dusty Air, such asvwest of the Sahara. Do a full drain of Gearboxes and Saildrive legs to get those bits out before refilling with fresh oil. Once run in is complete of Gearboxes and Saildrive Legs, add gearbox oil additives to greatly extend life, but Never before they have fully run in, as they are so good, they may never run in properly. That pretty much covers what I've learned over the years, otherbthan how to treat a Turbocharger Properly, which also needs good Clean suitable Oil. On Startup, never Rev the engine, let it tick over for say 30 seconds, to make sure those Turbo Bearings are getting a good Oil feed. On stopping - which opposes Yanmar non Turbo engine advice, do Not Switch off with high engine rpm, as that Turbo is spinning really fast, andbif you switch off, bye bye Oil feed, and hello Dry Bearings, so tick over for another 30 seconds first. Doingnthatbon Land, with good servicing, that Turbo should do a million miles. I've never had a Turbo Failure thanks to following that regime. Clean air is also Critical for Turbo Service Life. Best Wishes. Bob. 👍🙂
I am a very good mechanic and can fix most things. Your videos bring the mechanics back to the day of youth and fun with an engine. Where it is fun and interesting with all the stories that go with it. Great video and a new subscriber, and hopefully, a sailboat is enthusiastic, too in the future😊😊
Man I kept waiting for you to knock over the used oil jug..... what a mess that would be - put the cap on right away when you finish the extraction... :)
thank you, I just subscribed to your channel. when I repowered the Beta Marine (kabouta block) was much cheaper than the Yanmar. I have had my engine for about ten years now and we recently were having overheating problems, we shut the engine off and were sailing when we turned the engine back on we were going against tide and wind, I turned the engine up a little and it started overheating, we were in the channel and I just had to keep going, I eventually slowed down but the it was being very sluggish and when I turned the engine below 5000 rpms it choked out. Uhh what we discovered after we got towed in was a mess, a rubber hose blew off the heat exchanger and filled out 4' deep bilge with seawater. I called Beta and they said I should clean my heat exchanger every few years! who knew I took the entire cooling system apart and put the heat exchanger in vinegar most of the high pressure side were blocked. its and odd thing that is drawn together at both ends and kind of just stays in place, I also am going to change the fuel filers as it choked out and still won't start. thank you for your clear demonstrations
Your vids are very good. Too many of these cruiser vids are actually about bikini butts. Give me Clark and Emily's full nerd approach. Bikinis won't help me figuring out solar.
My Yanmar 6LPA STP2 stumbled and shut off….I suspected the filters so I got both the Racor and the secondary …prefilled them with fuel mounted them and then tried to pump the fuel to bleed it with the button on top of the secondary filter housing loosening the bleed bolt……no luck getting fuel….tried and tried …did a quick engine crank but didn’t want to hydro lock it ….still no good …waiting for mechanic to come out to my mooring to help….I haven’t cracked the injectors yet because I can’t even get fuel out the secondary filter bleed bolt yet….. bolt
Just another hack: on any dipstick, make good marks - either a notch at each end of original marking area (like a kiss of an angle grinder or a Dremel) or drill a Ø 2 mm /0.08" tiny hole in each end of the marking. Helps heaps to make a proper check of the oil level, especially if the light conditions are on the darker side. The original marking area are most often really not thoughtful for the purpose…
Great video. I have Perkins 4-108 with 5000 hours. What would you say the cruising RPM's are optimal for it from your experience? Also, any good modifications you would recommend for 4.108? Thank you!
The ones I mention here. For the 4.108 the rotery vane pump is particularly important. That engine is a pain to bleed. The electric pump makes it easier. I'd perminatly install an oil drain pump since you can't suck on the dipstick tube. It is a high RPM engine and I understood they do well when spun fast but I never used mine over 3000. I just didn't like the noises it made. I think redline for the proform version were like 4000rpm or more. Only difference in the three models was the setting of the governor. Also, need parts? I have loads of spares I'd sell.
Get a oil filter relocation kit; something like you find in a Harley parts catalog, or perhaps a John Deere parts store. Getting that up and out of the way makes it easy as pie; and you can even go with a cartridge oil filter so you don't have the messy leaks when changing the filter. And be sure to check the rating of the filter; contrary to what you might think, you do not want a really small (1 micron) filter as it may clog easily which would starve the engine of oil and cause catastrophic failure. And put some oil in that filter when you change it so you aren't running the motor without oil for 20 seconds.
I do really like the relocation idea. Had one on a previous engine and ran it with a reusable/cleanable filter. Really liked that because I could tell if I had issues by looking for metal. I still have the filter. I might install it on this engine next time I get to a place with parts. Great idea! I agree do that to your engine. Wish I had mentioned it in the video. What he said!
The only Scary Thing was NOT CAPPING the drain oil jug immediately. What would Emily think of a gallon of nasty drain oil spilled on her Livingroom floor?
I know. I felt the same way every time I saw it during editing. The floor would clean up easily but the bilge would be a different story. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
I added a bypass with a one way valve so I just don't know. If I had it to do again I'd skip the bypass. The vane pump just can't seal well when it's not spinning.
Many thanks for this Clark. I've recently bought a 2006 Jaguar 36 catamaran that appears to have been well looked after and some of the items that you have mentioned that I will require are clearly already here on the boat so this will help me to recognise them for what they are. Cheers.
Wow! Just an other great video and thanks for the tip about a separate fuel filtering system. I’ve often considered adding a second fuel filter but not in this way. We here in the North store our boats over winter. I now know how to start my new season by re filtering my fuel. Cheers!
Thanks for the advice! Really like your setup for the filter system and fuel moving. Been thinking of being able to move fuel between tanks to balance the load.
Hi Clark, my wife and I enjoy your videos! I have a Bristol 41.1 that we are moving to in December. I have the same engine, Yanmar 4JH5E, which has been great. Does the engine have anodes? I've tried researching online but haven't found a definitive answer. Keep the videos coming!
Hi Clark, Can you do a vid on small HP (50hp and below) diesel outboards. Both Baltic Machinery and Diesel Outboard Engines .de carry Yanmar diesel outboards of 27hp and 36ph. Also, Vanguarde Lifeboat sells a 20hp. What are your thoughts on these as main engines for smaller cats and mono sailboats for world cruising?
I would recommend changing the oil filter with every oil change. You are not saving anything by cheaping out on the filter. I can recommend the Electromaax kit with external regulator. We installed that on my dad’s boat. V belts belong in the museum not on a boat or car. Mercedes uses serpentine belts since the early 1990es.
Yeah, most of us would change the filter every time,.... but I guess his engine is running so clean the oil is still kind of clean when he changes it, and that that's why he don't see the need for changing the filter as well every time. ....... In some of my diesel cars I actually change the filter in between the oil change (exactly opposite of Clark). ........ The quicker the oil gets black, the sooner or the more frequent I would change the filter, and also for filters paying a bit more is likely better than the cheap ones made in china. ..... And by the way, read the filter instruction for torque when putting the new one back one. Once I did not, and ended up with all of the engine oil in the sump ;-) (it unscrewed itself). ...... Happily I had an oil pressure alarm that was actually sounding (not silent from rust in the buzzer).
Mercedes auto recommends changing the oil in all of their vehicles by suctioning from the dipstick, if it has one (another port otherwise). There is a misnomer that you can’t get all of the oil out that way. BS! Do yourself a favor and get a mini pump system that cause a vacuum with a catch either by hand or with compressed air. They are very reasonable. $80-$120.
You're very welcome George. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Nice tips. Would you ever worry if you only extract and replace half the capacity of oil in the engine? Do you ever measure the amount of oil replaced compared to the total oil capacity of the engine?
Algae in the tank. With boats that sit for a week or two, or three You wind up with an algae sediment in the tank which comes into play when you go offshore and the tank gets shaken like a cocktail. I know more about.sails than motors, but I am always the.first to hear that motor surge which signals a huge pain coming. Suggestions?
Yes, still having flashes but we now think it's PVD. Same symptoms but you don't go blind. Time will tell but I'm now doing stuff and it's not getting worse.
You said you didn't change a fuel filter until you changed an engine at 30:16. Do you believe if you had changed filters before you may have not had to change the engine?
Good ideas. I feel that sense the engine was just run to heat up the oil everything is fully lubricated and the amount of time it takes to fill that tiny filter doesn't matter.
For those curious Gas is roughly 115000 BTU per gallon and Diesel #2 is roughly 130000 BTU per gallon. So in round numbers 1 gallon of Gas is equivalent to about .9 gallons of Diesel. So a trip that would take 100 gallons of gas given equal circumstances it would take 90 gallons of Diesel.
Two statements I would like to make.... 1. I need to live aboard with you guys for like a year and just learn all the cool stuff you know from engines to learning how to play my guitar. I can sleep in the V berth, ok? - 2. I had anxiety for the second half of that video watching to make sure you didn't bump the old oil all over the boat with the cap not on the bottle!! All jokes aside, thanks for another great video, guys!
We have thought about doing a "learning charter" kinda thing. We have a couple of patreon supporters that will be invited out once air travel is a thing again.
How you know that the oil dipstick tube goes to the bottom of the oil pan? Do you have factory drawings ? How much oil you can extract? I have 4JH2E but never tough about putting rubber hose OVER it to extract oil.
Great video. I only have a small Yanmar, a 1GM10. It's possible to hand crank it. Which I had to do when my starter motor casing split. Thats the bit which is near the fly wheel. I picked the bits out and hand started. I wish I knew how to clean injectors. Anyone know a good link to a video on that? I'm considering buying a fuel polisher system to remove water and gunk.
Hi Clark just watched your video and wow I really enjoyed it and found it extremely helpful so thank you. Question, do you have any tricks or hints you can share to know the correct flat belt tension on your engine? Thanks you
The kit I got came with a great tensioner arm. Screw adjustable so the operation was so trivial I forgot it. If you use the factory arm I always grab my crazy long screwdriver and leverage the alternator up to tighten it. Then try to turn the alternator fan. It should try to turn the crank. If it slips it's too loose.
15W40 oil is 15 weight oil, it has a viscosity modifier added (think something like STP) that reduces the thinning effect of the heat on the oil. Many boats have two racors manifolded together so when one plugs up you can instantly switch the the other. Diesel fuel, unlike gasoline, will support some forms of biological growth that can be a problem in boats where the fuel might sit in the tanks for long periods especially in tropical climates, also condensation in the tanks. There are additives that can deal with these problems, truckers and farmers generally don't have these problems since they use their fuel quickly. I like your fuel polishing system, I don't know your manifolding arrangement but it would be nice if you could pump from one tank into another, this way you could isolate new fuel until you get a chance to check it out. Spare starter is a good idea. The new 140 amp alternator looks small, problem is that many alternators are overrated and yes they can pump out the 140A, for about five minutes, then they start to overheat. Commercial alternators are generally large with big cooling fans. A good voltage regulation system is also needed.
Just convince. Really I sail a lot. Temptress is good upwind (10.5 feet deep) and good in light conditions so it's seldom I motor. When I do motor I still go slow 6k tops, usually 5.5k. Saves fuel and I guess I just got used to moving slow.
Hey Clark and Emily. Great video. Tell me something though, fuel consumption. How much fuel to make that motor run for an hour on 7 knots or 5 knots? That is what I always put me off from motors.
I don't know about high speed yet as I don't run there long enough. In fact I don't have hard numbers for any speed yet. But it seems to burn at about 8 miles per gallon at cruising speed, 6k.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks! You said so casually that you ran it 48 hours straight that it made me wonder about it. 8 miles per gallon seems fine though.
That run was with the last engine. Since I've changed its been more windy. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
I cant say exactly the fuel use for my 2YM 15 2 pot 13 hp on 30 foot narrow beam 3 ton 1969 sail boat It seems to be about 1.5 liters per hour 60‰ gas (estimated 2000 rpm says 1800 but suspect under read from 80 amp alternator larger pully wheel ) going at 3.75 knots. Prop is fixxed three blade 12x9 probably too small Gear box ratio unkmown The previous engine was 9 hp one pot type which many boats 24 to 29 ft use many and say at 4 knots use 1 liter per hout Those size types can expect 12 to 18mpg st 5 to 6 knots That info looks to be about 11 mpg Imperial on 4.56 liters to imp gallon or maybe approx 9 mpg on USA gallon. Yanmar web site show fuel power curves for thiet engine on a per hour basis. It suugests i use 2 litets per hour for my use type That is possibly baded on bigget prop than mine which might allow 5 knots for 2000 RPM. My cousins 6 ton 37 foot 1985 prout Cat with Z Drive large 3 blade 3 pot 37 hp Yanmar seemed to be at 60% gas about 4 mpg imperial gallons in calm at 4 knots . Any head wind it went to 2.5 knots and 3 mpg quicly Boat types dictate fuel use speed ratio. Older narrow boats often in calms return best MPG with correct two blade fixxed props good gear box direct prop drives at higher speeds than heavy wide fishing type motor boats or bigl high windage multi hulls .
Hi Clark.. There is a tremendous amount of air the engine must get into the engine manifold .. staffing things down around the engine can effect the performance
multi filter and multi flow direction thru filters. great idea. i was just watching the Keenan system on sailing miss lone star and while theirs is automated and precise yoursis almost the same thing without the bells and whistles. The Keenana guy speaks of the rough running as a sign of fuel issues and you both fix it via the filtering and polishing. Thank you.
Great idea with the additional pump/filter and valve return manifold system. My current set up has 2 fuel filters before the engine's filters for redundancy, but I plan on another fuel tank and am really considering to reconfigure to your system. Thanks!
Thanks Rick. If you think your friends might also like our videos how about sharing our playlists on social media? We'd really appreciate the new viewers.
Yanmar engines are very popular and have a good reputation for reliability from what I understand. .. another great explanation Clark... You are so informative and knowledgeable it draws you in to listen to what you have to say and take note.
Ok lot of what you say is good stuff real good until you get to fuel pump all Racors filters must have the fuel sucked threw them never pushed .thats a big no no nice littel Yanmar my 4lhste I installed big brother to your 4 cyl is 230 hp when I was going to school for Yanmar the factory rep expand the best way of keeping a engine running is simple every engine is designed to put out x amount of horse power over a given period of time how the power is pulled used is up to how hard it's run I never run my engine up after bringing in to port just heats up the turbo that just cooled down on the way in makes no sense .i do like your fuel polishing set up change your pump location add magnetic filter kill allergy and that's the exact same system I use I regulate how often I change my filters by ours I don't go over 250 on the fuel filters they are cheaper than pumps or spray nozzles Yanmar dose not have injector they have spray nozzles
@@Clarks-Adventure well I'm 63 years old now and ben working on engines since I was 14 I also worked as an engineer taking care of larger larger vessels I hear that answer a lot. My answer is always the same just because you've been doing it that way and getting away with it doesn't mean it's correct not about leaks it bypasses the pressure. If your engine tries to shut down and you turn on the fuel pump to build pressure you're forcing the fuel through the bypass not filtered until it hits your secondary filter on your engine which in turn bypasses straight back to the fuel tank
I don't love the idea of boosting fuel line pressure with an aftermarket pump in order to overcome clogged Racor. You're deviating from manufacturer specs and newer diesels have a lot more sensors and circuit boards. I'm not a mechanic let alone engineer as you are but it just seems unwise. The manifold system is cool, but the downside is you're increasing complexity and creating more fail points in the most essential system of a diesel. That's the trade off. It's still a good idea but personally I wouldn't do it unless I had good, easy access to the manifold and second filter and pump. Engine access is underrated as a feature in boating.
Then you shouldn't. You should set up your system as you feel right. 4jh yanmar series have no such sensors. I have personally not seen sensors like that in any engine one would out in a sailboat and I wouldn't have one. Computer controlled diesels at best have new failure modes. Also know that the pump I use only produces 2.5 psi if I remember correctly.
@@Clarks-Adventure And that right there is why I LOVE old diesels. Simplicity. I don't even want a turbocharger. Yeah yeah more efficiency and performance, but in my simple mind it's something else to go wrong and they are not cheap to fix when they go out. And if you DIY your job is now harder. People love to trash old Detroit Diesels. But the haters always forget to mention Detroits always start and always run. They're beasts. Overall, about your hack, I'm not trying to change your mind or anyone's but it's fair to bring up counter argument. No offense intended. On the topic of circuit boards, I do know newish outboards are rife with them as are newish diesels. Even as an engineer you probably don't like seeing a Circuit board on a diesel, imagine how a hack like me feels! Btw, CB's are also becoming scarce. Covid supply chain disruptions etc. A dockmate waited 9 months for a simple backordered CB, his engine would not run until that little CB arrived.
Hello , being able to polish your fuel yourself is very important....one thing thou Can you PLEASE put the lid on the OLD Oil Cantainer BEFORE the inevitable happens..great vid..cheers
Yeah, I felt that feeling every time I saw it during editing. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
CAUTION - Don't buy the Knock-Off, Look Alike Racor fuel filter system. They are half the price of a genuine Racor and you don't want to find out why. Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Racor or any of their subsidiaries or dealers.
Thanks G. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Cannot emphasize the point about running them hard (unless they've got an after market turbo). Treat them dirty (interms of use, not maintenance) and they'll love you for it. Also if you're ever in a location where the fuel is of poor quality, you can always use a 'Mr funnel fuel Funnel' It sepperates diesel (and gas) from water and particulates, it's pretty magical. People who overland in Africa use it quite a lot.
When buying oil, go by the api rating. Not the name of the manufacturer. If the api rating is correct, use whatever you want. Avoid “high mileage “ oil unless you are concerned with ring blow-by. Then never go back to anything but high mileage until you have your rings serviced.
I think the oil made specifically for marine use can have some additives to prevent rust, that you don't necessarily get with the standard engine oil, and which could be why the marine one costs a bit more (if it does).
Interesting thanks. Question1: Can I change it cold when using a vacuum pump? Some people think you can get more of the gunk out at bottom. Question 2: What micron Racor filter do you use?
1 I think oil should always be changed warm. You can get more out that way as thick oil pools thicker. More oil out more crud out. But mostly an oil change is about getting new oil in. 2. I forget, had to dig into my spares. 10micron.
Thanks Clark. My Perkins 4-108 is the biggest mystery to me, but only because I haven’t taken the time to familiarize myself with it. I drive a VW diesel so I have a general knowledge but I haven’t figured out bleeding the fuel system yet because i haven’t had to. I really like your hack on polishing your fuel. Thanks.
The 4.108 is a great engine but it is probably about the hardest engine out there to bleed. I advise you to NEVER run out of fuel. But if it happens your engine is easier to bleed if you run that transfer pump putting positive pressure on the engine. Then go through all the bleed points loosening each vent until clear (bubble free) diesel flows. It's in the book. Just using the electric pump saves you from having to reach down and keep actioning the mechanical on engine pump.
Those starters are very similar to the starters I've had on a long list of Lycoming (I)O-320/360 aircraft engines. As you alluded, the biggest issue by far is simply the Bendix getting gummed up with old oil, bird feathers (lol) and other detritus. I've had good luck simply spraying the bendix with carb cleaner and then a little dry lube to get it to work properly. On my old Grumman aircraft I always drilled a little hole in the cowl to be able to put the aerosol can straw through. I've not had an issue with the starter on my 3JH4E yet, but this would by my first go-to.
A big thumbs up, because it convinced me to buy another electrical fuel pump and replace the mechanical one on my engine. Since then it runs far better, starts perfect etc. And has rhe advantage you mentioned of running more fuel through the pre filter, thus cleaning the fuel. I’ve got one question if I may: by adding a pulley on your existing crankshaft pulley, you changed the weight on the complete part. Did you notice any change in vibration on you engine. I’m asking this because mine has the habit of vibrating at 1100 to 1300 rpm more than in the rest of the range. It is a 3 cylinder 27 horse so different than yours. And, if there is a noticeable change, I maybe could do a similar thing.
Clark great recap I am running g a 3JH. The water pump on it is facing aft on port side of engine(hard to get to). It looked like yours is facing forward on port side. Is that correct? Again great video. Fair Winds and Following Seas from the crew of Celtic Lady Seawind II 68K.
I'd have to dig in there to look. But the 3jh is just a three holes version of the 4jh. Mostly the same parts just different by year. If there is another raw water pump made likely it will fit your engine.
With my 20 year old Volvo/Perkins MD22P I can never get all the oil out, but I don't think that matters too much. The other thing I notice is that the oil level always drops quite a lot when I turn the engine over the first time so I have to top it up again. I literally run the engine for a couple of seconds and then check it again and top up. My engine has always flawlessly started and runs perfectly in the 2 years and 600 hours I've used it. I'd be curious to know how many hours you think you can get out of your Yanmar. You might also want to talk about the pros and cons of turbo - mine is naturally aspirated which I believe is preferable on a cruising boat.
I bet your oil is filling up your new oil filter. I don't care for turbos but if I had to deal with either a size or weight issue I'd have a turbo diesel. I prefer the idea of turbocharging a diesel over turbocharging a gasoline engine.
Thank. Mine is yanmar 2ym15 a 2 pot 13hp with a hard to find oil leak. Excelent info now i need to make a second tank and extra pump to solve any future issues there
Nice content! So much less things to wory about than on a car. No brake system No transmission? No whiels? No Dif? How hard is it to change the engine? Keep up the good work! Well done on the little boat you are building. Cant wait to see it on the water. Greetings from South Africa. Your almost blind fan.
You're very welcome Steve. If you think your friends might also like them, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
I attached a short piece of copper tubing to our pump hose for changing out the oil on our yanmar through the dipstick. This way you know it’s touching the bottom. Very good video!
I had to change my oil pan on my 4jh5e. I removed the oil with the dipstick tube (no inner pipe). Then removed the pan. Surprisingly little oil left in the pan. Just FYI
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