The boat in the video is mine. Thanks to Matt and Austin, they did a great job welding on the pods. I ran the boat this weekend and the pods performed as advertised by Beavertail. They brought the stern up about three inches. No performance drop that I could tell.
Exactly how a owner should be with his employees doing work. There with him but not all over his back as he's doing the job!!! Much Respect and as always Great Work
AWESOME as always Matt. Next time get this thing in the water to show off the difference and how well it performs. You also didn't explain that each pod has its own plug in case water ever seeps in. Man I wish I'd win Ronb Terkla's boat! You killed that one and to be able to go out on a machine YOU built would be an honor and a rush because I know it would be the best built rig on the water.
Hey man I love your work and watching your videos!! You do such nice work very professional! I am just wondering why you still use a foot pedal instead of a thumb throttle on your tig?
I just got some beaver tail pods for my little riveted Jon boat. Planning on installing them this summer. What are the reasons that you don’t recommend installing them onto riveted boats?? Beaver tail gives plans for installing all of their pods onto either wielded or bolted/epoxied methods. Thank you. Love the vids!
They need to be welded on, and rivited hulls are too thin for welding, IMO. Bolts and epoxy just sounds crazy to think about lol. Just get them welded on
@@TRICKEDTINS I have a feeling that a properly prepped mating surface entirely covered in 3M 5200... plus bolts... is going to be way stronger than any perimeter wield. It does take 7 days to fully cure though. I have seen guys use it on the big aluminum ocean fishing vessels up in Alaska with great success... for over a decade of being under salt water. I have seen folks use it on fiberglass hulls... then had both the gelcoat and chunks of fiberglass rip away before the 5200 would let go. Have a friend that claims to have ripped a hole in his fiberglass hull about the size of his fist... then got some salt treated plywood and slapped it on with some 5200. Went the rest of the season with plywood simply glued/epoxied to his hull. Waited until Winter for the real repair. Might make a good YT video to test the difference in strength? I bet the wielding will loose. Especially if the 5200 is combined with decent sized bolts/washers. I aim to use paint stripper to gently remove the paint from my hull (so I don't effect the anti-corrosion treatment that is on the metal). The hull on my little 1436 (as with most 1436 jons) is super thin and something like 0.50 to 0.70 on the transom. Those pods will never come back off without having to replace the whole sheet of metal. Though, you can totally buy that too online.
@@TRICKEDTINS It is not a matter of per square inch. It is a matter of total surface area (plus bolts). Especially when on thin metal. I am betting that at the minimum, the 5200 + hardware is the better option in certain circumstances. Don't get me wrong. Wielding is WAY better most of the time. For instance, I would not have even considered buying a beavertail float pod in the first place if it were just pieces of metal that were epoxied and bolted or riveted along the seam. Even though, that has obviously been plenty strong enough for my hull. In fact, the guys at my workplace who build airframes from aluminum sheet metal, use rivets and epoxy. It holds up to the enormous pressures of a pressurized cabin... on an airframe that is getting torqued on while having high frequency vibration applied at the same time. Want to know why they use rivets and not wielding on aircraft? There is a number of reasons.
I’ve got it stuck in my head that I want to build a Glastron trihull 186. I’m wanting to ditch the inline inboard and get a fiberglass outboard pod and then side pods and stick a 200 outboard on the back. Why it’s never been done that I can see and I’d like to add a nice big bench seat in the back making the boat more spacious. Also another reason new boats are outrageous. I’d rather build a boat and finance the engine. I’ve found some great candidates that need little work hull and transom wise. I recently saw a restomod glastron with a jet engine conversion and can’t get it off my mind.
This is going to sound dumb but how bad does the pod dig into the rear tie-down strap? I am curious if that impacts the effectiveness of the strap and its holding force
This is my boat in the video. The pods do interfere with the current tie down spot. I have the ratcheting buckles and moved them to the side of trailer frame and going to relocate some new u-bolts higher and closer to the edge of the transom. I've looked at this pretty hard and the pods will not interfere in the new location I'm planning on.
I have this same boat (2019) and want to deck it out completely and add the pods. I won't be able to do it myself unfortunately, I will have to have someone do it for me...
