Hi fellow sailers, in my days as an aircraft engineer we used to get loads of corrosion, so if you can, find some water displacing LPS1 it’s like WD40 on steroids allow it to dry. With areas like the old windlass motor casing spray some LPS3 it’s a spray on wax that completely seals. Another fantastic product is ACF50 as an all in one spray, these are all available as an aerosol approx £15 here in 🇬🇧. One final tip put some cord on the red isolator key and tie it up so it doesn’t fall out and disappear like all those old bic biros. Nic blog keep going 👍😄😄
Coffee ✔ Teulu Tribe ✔ One half hour of uninterrupted time available ✔One more project to make Tuele better and safer completed ✔Joy on the faces of Zach and Becka ✔You're bloody doing it. ✔ Stay safe. ❤🙏
One old woodworkers trick to fill holes with a mixture of sawdust and glue or epoxy. It looks like teak and is the same technique that is used to make press board.
@@sharifsoliman2497only works is if the arbor has extra thread to take the holesaw. Most don’t but it’s a great trick, I use it to go from 70mm down lights to 90mm downlights
Seeing two young people doing such a wonderful job of caring for the love of their lives is so lovely to see. Great job with installing your new Windlass. My wife & I used to spend a lot of our time at anchor when we spent 11 years on our ancient Trader Motoryacht cruising in & around the Greek islands. For us our windlass was quite possibly one of the most important piece of equipment as we spent many times at anchor. May I suggest that for you another enhancement to your new installation that you consider getting a remote control for it. My wife & I had one & it enable us to lay & retrieve our anchor from anywhere on the boat. Also we found it to be quite invaluable carrying out Med Style mooring when using marinas especially as, unlike you two, our age was a big factor in our cruising life. Take Care.
Absolutely love the channel chaps. At the risk of being accused of being pedantic that’s a capstan you’ve installed, not a windlass. A windlass operates on horizontal axis. Your capstan’s axis is vertical 👍
Regarding the 1200 Watts windlass, Some boat owners take the power from a AGM battery close to the windlass: Benefits of doing that: 1) The huge current (Amps) going to the windlass has short wires. 2) There're no big voltage drop from the main battery, becase ... 1) Wires from the main battery only need to carry the AGM battery's recharge current, which is very low. 2) Emergency power for the electronics (VHF etc.) in case the main battery bank got swamped, or became defunct for other reasons.
Be careful Muir don’t cover warranty on electronics The motor says water proof but water still gets in around black cover Muir won’t cover water entry in Mine was only 6 months old They said it’s in anchor locker no cover Make sure you use butan tape to seal black cover And I also put plastic cover over motor so water would run off
Thought you might like some advice on the risk of corrosion of the motor casing on the Muir windlass. I replaced the same windlass 10 years ago after it had corroded in the previous 10 years. It took 8 hours with an angle grinder to cut the badly corroded mounting bolts in order to remove the windlass. It was a nightmare. The powder coated motor casing of the new replacement windlass corroded after 12 months. Muir replaced the windlass under warranty and I covered the replacement windlass (the third Muir windlass) completely (including the mounting bolts) with Denso tape. The tape makes the motor assembly look like crap but I have just removed the windlass after a further 10 years for servicing and the casing and bolts are in really good condition. If you want to save yourselves from a lot of grief you should seriously consider using Denso tape as a corrosion barrier - you won’t regret it.
The wiring was most likely the issue with the old windlass. The older models are often built with heavier components and if refurbished are going to last longer though they won't look as slick. Another source for heavy cable is a welding supplier. I get mine there rather than order it in. Not sure if that is an option on Aruba but something to keep in mind. As always your work looks solid.
A lot of work again, but a brilliant result. If you had put the old windlass back on you would have no doubt been wishing you had bought an upgraded new one, so a job well done. And it does seem very quiet 😅😅
Proud of you both for not Mickey mousing that windlass installation. You both did an excellent job with the wire management and motor install. This is legit! Stay safe!
American wire gauges AWG, are, the bigger number, the smaller the wire. #2 is smaller than #1, then #0 (aught), or 1/0 (one aught) is the next larger wire, then #00, or 2/0 is next larger, up to #0000, or 4/0 (four aught). After that, it goes by thousand circular mils (mcm), circular .0001 inches, so the next size after 4/0 would be 250 mcm, and then just bigger after that. That was a very nice job on that windlass upgrade.
Is it OK that I have a crush on the cute, hardworking young lady with the lovely accent? I am surprised that you u tube site doesn't have far more subscribers and views you guys make a great couple
I totally love your approach to life. You both remind me of my first trip age 21 and learning as I go. You can bloody do it and the skills you learn now will change the future of your life for the better. I’m about to do it again aged 58 and wondering how the boat yoga is going to work with creaky joints and extra blubber but hopefully it will all work out somehow. I’m excited to see how much has changed in 35 years.
Amazing guys, the teak looked original. Quite the puzzle piecing in pieces of the deck. This new windlass was certainly worth the time and effort extended and should provide years of uncompromised service. Great job!
A nice trick to hold the hole saw in place just to take a small piece of plywood and drill your hole through that then hold that plywood over the other hole so the hole saw doesn't wander then drill your new hole
Great job guys well done. Only small criticism where the large cables ( or any cables for that matter) enter a junction box they should have glands. A easy upgrade when you get the parts.👏👏👏 Ps this is most needed where cables enter the top of boxes for obvious reasons of potential for water entering
Ooh that was a lovely job! I really loved the grain matching teak inserts, that was such a nice touch. I'm really enjoying these DIY projects and fixing videos, I love Teulu such a beautiful boat, and it's great to see such caring and aesthetic improvements... Looks like you are both taking a bit of a beating doing it so I hope you both are healing up and are resting up. All the best! 🙏
Matching the grain was a bit of a challenge but definitely worth it! We have a few even bigger projects to come, but not too long until we are back in the water 😊 Cheers!
I suggest never lead cables or tubings along the floor, as you have done. Instead, lead them es high up as you can. In fact, when water or dirt gets in those spaces, you will have a hard time to clean up if all those cables are on the floor. Best regards.a
Good job, but please, please make some sort of shield or protection to stop water from the chain dripping/splashing onto the motor - otherwise in a short time it, or the electrics will start corroding !
Although I don't own a boat, I learn a ton of stuff from your boat projects. Ingenuity, patience and problem solving. It translates well to my overland rig. By the way, Becka reminds me a bit of Natalie Portman.
Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I scanned the comments first and didn't see it. You mentioned the size cable/wire from the US as 'one slash zero'; written 1/0. This is pronounced 'one aught'. Progressively larger sizes would be 00, 000, & 0000 (two aught, three aught, four aught). You would substitute the word 'gauge' in place of 'aught' for any cable sizes smaller. That is, 'one gauge', 'four gauge', etc. These are standards of AWG (American Wire Gauge). FWIW. Congrats on the new windlass, looks like a great upgrade and job well done!
I haven't been watching for a while and the difference between now and your very first tentative steps sailing is heartwarming to see. How you've gone about this chapter in your lives is exemplary. Very best, Mike
You used a nice wokaround for enlarging that old hole for the switch. You can get an arbour that takes the place of the pilot drill on which you can mount a hole saw that is the size of the old hole
Awesome job guys and you certainly did a good ‘aesthetic job’ on the deck, once that’s weathered you would never know. Great to see how you share the jobs, shipwright and electrician in perfect harmony. I’m the sort of guy who would have refurbished the old windlass probably but that would have taken quite the effort and it sounds like it just wasn’t up to the job anyway. Better to have some power in reserve and the rope drum will be very useful. I’m sure someone will buy your old one or certainly worth a few drinks and perfectly possible to mend and use on a smaller boat. Happy days. Andy UK
12:15 There is one simple trick for drilling a hole when there's a void where the guide drill should go: first, drill a hole in a piece of scrap plywood, place it over the area where you need the hole, and use its sides as your guide. This method also works when you need a circle without the central hole typically made by a guide drill.
Becca - when you use rotating machinery (eg a drill) tuck your hair into a hat or some other headwear. If a lock if hair catches in a drill it can rip a chunk of your scalp off - not a great look !
Zach and Becka, Awesome job installing the new windlass. I have to admit that I was holding tight in case Sparky showed up; great job Becka. Thank y'all for sharing. I hope that y'all rewarded yourselves with s pint or two. Cheers! Blue Skies and Fair Weather. Faithfully, James
Great vlog. You are taking such care in renovating your old boat. It will really pay off down the road. When you lifted that floor hatch in the bow, i was really surprised how clean it was! 😊
Enjoyed the video thanks. I do have a suggestion though having fixed similar issues on a number of boats. The chain will eventually chew through the epoxy you used to protect the balsa core in the chain hole. Possibly very quickly even. That will lead to more of the same rotting problems. A more long term solution which I use in most deck similar penetrations is to dremel or router out about 5 to 10mm of the balsa on the inside of the hole (without cutting back the fibreglass on either side of the balsa) and replace it with thickened epoxy so you end up with a ring of 5 to 10mm solid epoxy where the chain will rub. For the bolt holes a better solution is to overdrill them by say 3mm, fill the holes with thickened epoxy, then redrill through the epoxy with the correct size for the bolt. Again leaving a solid epoxy ring protecting the balsa core. If you ca add some glass fibres to the thickened epoxy in either case it makes it even stronger.
Good work you two. Keep an eye on the 1/0 wires that pass thru any holes. I didn’t see you use any grommets for protection. The high vibration and constant movement of the vessel could rub through the wires insulation.
Nice job kids. Pro tip. Keep the capstan/ gypsey well lubricated. Take it apart every 6 months for lub. Or it will be seized forever together in a few years. Ask me how i figured it out.
Good solid job. It will be easy to add another foot switch when you realize how handy it is to control the drop as well as the haul. In the meantime, don't leave the chain under tension it isn't good for the windlass. Make the chain fast elsewhere and leave the last bit to the windlass slack.
Good job on the "aesthetics" Team Teulu..!!! I got an ebay $20 remote up and down switch for my new windlass, and it works a treat. Just a thought. I also have a rocker switch at the companionway so we can operate the windlass from everywhere..!! Cheers Grant, Adelaide, South Australia.
I've owned a couple of fiberglass sailboats in the past, but I opted for a Chatham 33, steel pilot house cutter for my last boat. With modern paint systems, corrosion is not really a problem and I liked the safety and strength of steel while cruising in the high latitudes and in the stormy southern ocean during my 40,000 mile singlehanded, circumnavigation.
So with a 100 feet of cable you would lose 1 volt if winch was loaded to full output, that would only happen if the anchor got snagged on something heavy like a sunken car. If it was a small car it would probably lift it out of the water 😉
Well, once again Becka and Zach, you came through with a crackin good job on that windless. So nice to see such a great work ethic on you youguns. Don't see that as much as in the old days, that's for sure. Becka, I love your little motto, you really are bloody-doing-it, that's for sure. And Zach, my friend, I don't think I have heard such a good speaking voice as yours for some time. Maybe, when you take a break from rollin in the surf around the world, you can take on doing that for a living and all the fame you can handle. All the best you guys...
Wow you guys. You are getting so good at boat work. A job well done. And the finishing work was very well done. Good decision making & an all round top job👍 keep up the good work. SV Kiwi Lady Opua Bay of islands New Zealand 👍🏿
a other wonderful video the feeling you get from operating new things is almost worth the money you shell out well done you to doing what most people my age think they should have done
Why "scour", I've got 1. To search through or over thoroughly 2. To range over (an area) quickly and energetically. 3. To range over or about an area, especially in a search. 4.To move swiftly; scurry 5. To clean, polish, or wash by scrubbing vigorously. 6. To remove by scrubbing 7. To remove dirt or grease from (cloth or fibers) by means of a detergent 8. To clean (wheat) before the milling process. I take it you got it before starting to work on the boat, therefore I'm going for 8. - maybe your dad's a baker 🙂??? Zach not naked - yeah right, taking a bath, hooked on clean living perhaps.
Nicely done. The first one of those windlasses I've seen, and it sounds great imho. Best Wishes, Fair Winds, and Safe Travels. Bob in Wales. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️
Loving the confidence of you both in undertaking boat repairs now. You’ve come a long way in such a short time. This confidence is going to keep stress levels much lower In challenging situations and your relationship stronger. Unless you are the type that thrive on make ups? You could say this will help anchor your relationship? Sorry, I’ll see myself out.
Don't know if you've smashed a nail before, Zach, but in future if you do that it helps a lot to heat up a paperclip and burn through the nail to release the blood. Makes the weeks of regrowth a lot less uncomfortable. Cheers, great work on that windlass. Very impressive learning curve you've got.
Ok Sparky 1/0 is called "one ott". 2/0 "two ott" and so on. If you walk into an electric supply center in the U.S. and ask for size zero, which is what 1/0 actually is, they are going to look at you like you are from another planet.
I am seriously impressed with your resourcefulness. Have you always known about electrics and wiring or learned as went along. I am considering a similar project in a years time and would have a clue where to start with electrics. I presume there are help forums etc. Love your vids. John
Great work.another hack for a hole saw .drill a hole in a waste piece of plywood.remove guide drill .place ply over hole to drill and use the bit through the ply . cheers
Nice job! You might have saved a little by running the windlass of the same battery as you use for your bow thruster and wiring a relay back to the helm, right?
