Very good job. It took me at least an hour to reassemble the first one trying to keep the case drain aligned and o-ring squeezing out. I came up with a easy way to reassemble and it took me 15 minutes to replace seals and reassemble. I have a bidea but i have no idea what to do with it. I took 2 longer bolts and cut the heads off. I screwed them in to the bottom housing directly across from each other. You simply have to align the drain and slide each piece down. After got everything replaced, i installed a couple bolt to ensure nothing moves before i remove the guid bolts i installed. Try this and if you like it you are welcome to use it in your videos cause i dont care.
I put those seal kits in my bobcat, went through 2 sets, one lasted a week, 2nd lasted a month, finally I bought Bobcat brand and so far these lasted longer than cheap ones. 4 months and still going strong. Great video!
This plug kit you speak of sounds awesome! I'm usually finding fittings to go from JIC to ORB to NPT and then find about 3 reducing bushings to get to a plug that I actually have lol! Excellent demo on rebuilding that pump! You do excellent work, sir! Too bad it didn't fix it, but she'll be even better now when you do get her all fixed up! Thanks for the video!
Hu, like you I'm surprised that it wasn't a lot more involved ! I've run those machines but have not really worked on them much. Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
good video. That was a nice tutorial on replacing all the seals in that drive motor. I don't think the time was lost. I just think you have more work to do yet. Thanks for posting and take care
@@Digginok I understand that you have issues to address with the pump. But in my mind you started in the right place because a new or rebuilt pump would not make that much difference if you did not have the seals and the rest of the machine to retain the pressure. The machine is old but still a good machine and it is worth some hydraulic service. That is my opinion on the matter
if you put your caps back together in matched pairs. you can mark the pairs individually on at least 3 flats each. with a die grinder, or a scribe.. that way when you take a pair apart to plug each hose.. the hoses are now mated.. as long as you don't change cap positions.. or you can photograph the cap positions before taking off the removed part.. so you can put the back on the same place. 1 set of scratches, 2 sets of scratches, 3 sets of scratches.. you get the idea.. how big are those fittings.. bigger than 2" you can get a 61515 at horrible fright for 50 bucks that is 1 3/8 thru 2" double open end.. chop them in half if you need 2 of the same size and use a pipe on the stub. giving you a 60 and a 15 degree opening for fittings. they used to have a metric set too.. i don't see it but it might exist in store. just a thought. i don't know how you feel about imported tools..
Ah just caught this vid. Timely for me. Though I have a 632B and the service book was hesitant to take my growling motor apart. Slightly diff drive motor, but same geroller design. Good to see whats in it for real - not happy with the books lack of quality pics and poor descriptions. Caught the tip below on capping the lines to see if the drives will kill the engine - I'll try try that. My Bobcat was dead when I bought it, I had to unhook the lines to roll it up on the ramptruck, and it skidded one side where I forgot to take the caps off the drive motor. Great geisers rushed out to meet my arm when I did, so this makes sense wrt killing the engine. A good test.
I was so proud until I saw the torque wrench! I’m like Frank is just like me doing everything with a cordless impact!! Haha!! Keep up the good work comrade, DRINK MORE VODKAS!
JasonWorksAlot if it was my own machine maybe I wouldn’t have torqued it, but ya know! Love the cordless impacts for sure!!! Makes me feel like I’m Rushin’!!!
Hi Frank, Good tutorial on hydraulic motor remove and repair. Too bad it didn't fix the problem. I hate it when I try to fix something, make an assumption, and then find that I barked up the wrong tree. Is there some way you could do a pressure and flow test on the hydraulic pump? Good thing you didn't find any metal particles inside the motors.
Looks like the motor could have used some lapping. A granite plate with 400 then 1000 paper and time will have the motor perform much better. Guide studs it what I use to use as well as small tie straps to mark lines. Good instruction
Hello, I am from Argentina, I have a bobcat s220, I need your help, the problem it has is that it does not rotate, when the joysticks are activated, it sounds like counter pressure (only to rotate), the problem is in the right joystick, now When moving forward or backward, it makes a strange noise, where can I start? I do not have a manual or book for this machine, thank you
Good morning Frank, Thank you for the video and your time, I’m sure you will get to the bottom of the problem!! Is there anyway you can take any oil/pump pressure with a gauge??Take Care 😎👍🇬🇧.
I happend to have a 751, the motor looks litterly the same, left side of my wheels litterly have no power, they only spin when i lift the wheels in air. Most likely a bad motor. Was thinking of switching the motors around to diagnose if its the motor or part of the pump that is the fault. I mean they look the same on both sides, can i do this?
They should switch, but from what I was told the best way to test a pump is to cap off the motor lines and check to see if the pump will kill the engine when full forward or reverse. In the case of this machine it would only kill the engine on one side.
@@Digginok Thanks for a fast reply!, never really thought of that idea i assume it doesn't hurt the pump? Also did you change part of the pump or the entire assembly? Those pumps r expensive, iv heard.
It was an expensive repair, replaced with a bobcat pump. It doesn’t hurt the pump as it is protected by relief valves. The seal kits won’t hurt, and they are fairly inexpensive. www.loaderpartssource.com/ call these guys they know hydro stat systems and are easy to work with.
@@Digginok So yea i switched the motors around, took me like 6 hours with breaks, really messy and oily job lol. but anyway the issue transferd from left side to the right side, atleast i know the problems is in the drive motor 100%. Now im thinking about ordering a seal kit for it and attempting to install the new seals. Perhaps thats all it needs? Cheers
Do you happen to have the seal kit part number still? I ordered a kit for my motor it looks just like yours but its off an older 642 machine. I am curious if its the same motor so I can follow your instructions
Mostly the age of the machine, no oil to the chain case, just lots in the case drain from the motor ( the little hose ). It did help somewhat, but it needs a new drive pump.
BUENAS NOCHES ESTECTACULAR EL VIDEO PERO TRADUCIMELO AL ESPAÑOL Y VENDEME UN MANUAL DELM MECANICO PERO TE FELICITO ABRAZO REALMENTE CONSTRUCTIVO EL VIDEO GRACIAS.
I'm not so sure about them, actually he is the guy who said to check the case drain flow, seems like good advice. But i had a cylinder rebuilt there once and I won't go back again. Nice folks for sure but when I asked why my cylinder was smoking the chrome off the rod, they said the seal kits were fitted too tight, I think they didn't lube the new seals. I replaced the seals my self and have no problem since. Probably my bad luck, but that is why I fix stuff myself! I do buy some teeth from them once in a while. What do you know about them?
We"ve had 4 cylinder"s rebuilt for 2 of our machines and haven"t had any issues yet ,one of the machines produces 300,000 pds of push & pull , so far so good we had that done 4 years ago but I guess there"s always that chance .
I do some repair work for the town of Orlando, never tapped one but have had to repair a couple transite pipes. Good to hear the cylinders are working for you, I have heard others say good things about that shop, like I said probably my luck!
Orland Ok my gosh my Dad did some work up there 30ish years ago and ended up bringing home all of the old twin bulb light poles that used to be in town
good video!! you know the Donaldson brand, they offer me those filters as a replacement for jcb original Thanks. I ask because a few days ago I saw a video showing the low quality of the famous fram filters
did a few pump's motors not that hard. Clean work spaces and micrometer measure parts. Nice work. Beware of Asian aftermarket kits..Chinese copy no good . Soon only Chinese take out food will be made in America. Seal.relys on wear compensation plates and lapped tight clearance between sides of gears . Oil seal on shaft is to keep dirt dust out and catch weepage. Not for pressure.No high pressure should reach seal. Check Mani pump and relief valve poppet o rings blow causing low pressure. Charge pressure should be about 300-500 psi. Charge pump could be tired. Usually first to wear out. Hydrostatic brass piston shoes also wear on surface of angle plate. Easy to rebuild but you need a hyd pressure test kit 5000psi and fittings. I have drilled tapped elbows to use as test ports if machine has none. There is a charge pressure test nipple under seat. Quick coupler type about 1/2 diameter. Also if oil shows brass bronze flakes in test main hydrostatic pump shoes bad. I has a T190 tract one brakes were staying on in final drive from low charge pressure also put bronze in oil ruined brake pack.
