Great edit! Glen is obviously a beast just for getting back in the lineup after a close to death injury. But to drop in on the wave that nearly killed him, he has some pretty strong faith in the lord. Cheers to glenny and others for giving me a video to watch when I feel down about my performance in the water that encourages me to basically dedicate my life to bodyboarding. Keep charging man!
Sick vid! A little over a month ago I a sustained a syndesmotic disruption and fibula fracture during a dawn patrol session. Just last week I finally got the green light to start walking with full weight bearing, it was painful to say the least and still is but I'm making progress towards being back out in the lineup. Since I missed the last half of our south summer swells I'll definitely make up for it this winter when north shore gets its first winter swell. Aloha from Oahu.
This is good stuff. I know what went into the editing. I can appreciate what goes into charging that size of wave of that kind. Nasty. Good product. Good end product. nice.
thats not what the storys about man... he broke his ribs and tht affected his life ... and its a milestone that means after a while he's back and he's back to charge hard... these are huge waves man... not the hugests ofcours but huge and sick nontheless and above all its a touching story cuz he went back to the wave that broke his ribs on a sick day ... dont deuce on other peoples acomplishments bro ... especially a fellow surfer ...
i can safely say that's this is not that extra ordinary for Australian bodyboarder's, We have some real young guns that dont make movies or enter comp's but just bust air's n spin into reef pit's just for fun, just being funny cunts out on the rock with some mates.. fuck this hyped up rocky balboa waves bs. Its natural flow, passive aggressive if you will. Sorry about my ramble the waves are crap right now. peeeaacee tho
