Bolex + DJI Ronin S 

I was wondering if it was possible, and I still think it is

Bo Chen thanks mang

How did you attach the GoPro onto your camera? Was there a hot shoe on top of the camera to attach it to? I’m going to try this out of my Super 8 too but don’t want to damage the outside of the camera with anything

@@superlovefilmmaking hot shoe to 1420 gopro mount

Another cool hack I've seen is taping a phone to the eyepiece of the bolex and using the phone as monitor

*palpatine voice* do it

have fun but for me it was too fineky. i wouldn’t want to do it again, would rather try a simple flycam or something stronger like a movi. or just shoot it handheld i just guessed the focus distance and rolled. think i stoped down to f2? and that helped

PRESSYES MUSIC congratulations on the buy. it just depends on the project and look you want. the 10mm for these are the widest they make - there is a screw on 5mm front element that i was looking at for a while from kern. about $500. they are very sharp, pretty clean character for it’s time, and the r version of the lenses are designed to compensate for the slight prism distortion. the 10mm is about a 28mm/30mm fov - personally id like to go wider at 20mm or 24mm. so to do so, the options would be that screw on adapter i mentioned, getting a optex illumina 8mm (they make a 7.5 also i believe) for about 3k - i’ve seen some dp using it and it’s incredible. leica like. and the last option is the peleng (think that’s the spelling) 8mm 2.5 i believe, about 300$ on ebay. it comes as an ef mount, so it can be adapted to c mount. if you got the sbm, and want to use cmount or other glass you’re gonna need the bayonet to cmount adapter btw. about 100-150

switars can be had on ebay, definitely buy the best condition you can afford. people tend to embellish quality level a bit. if you get a good one they hold their value well. a return policy and good feedback on the seller is strongly preferred

@@GeoffreyGonzales Thanks man! Your advice is highly appreciated !! Can't wait to shoot !

John Tuesday yeah i asked the developer about them - they weren’t sure it might be it was something with the drying of developer and the liquid stuck a little bit around the sprocket hole / there was a tiny bit of rubbing and it wore through part of a layer of the film causing that issue. if it was a light leak it would be soft and more of a gradient . so i cleaned my bolex and will shoot again and see if it happens again. i shot this at 36p and slowed to 24p, to soften it up a tiny bit

My brother in Christ you loaded the film in broad daylight. Do it in the shade or in a dark bag next time.

there is a shutter lock on the side

probably, the payload of the ronin s is 8lb where the payload of the s2 is 30lb

@@GeoffreyGonzales any update (going into 2022) on what gimbal would best hold this setup’s payload

2 poor life decisions

@@GeoffreyGonzales the bolex yes, the RZ absolutely not. if you had an rb then I would have agreed on the poor life decision

they scanned it and i requested log. corrected it myself

@@GeoffreyGonzales okay thank u so much I just sent out my film and requested log c as well!

if you like the look of film - the way it renders color, and captures luminosity, then there’s no replacement. personally i absolutely love it. you can look around on here an vimeo to see if super 8, 16mm, or 35mm is the look you want. basically there are super 8, 16mm, 35mm film cameras. for this category (16mm), it’s a great entry level camera. very very well built, cheeper than the higher priced sr2/3 bodies that will run about 10k for the system. i got this with a bid for about $600. but this model usually runs about 1-2k it cost $150 for the roll of film (including development and scanning) for what i shot here, about 2-3 minutes depending on the frame rate

Geoffrey Gonzales I was looking into 16mm seems about right for I want. my only concern is that if I shoot a music video I don’t know how I would sync the audio besides manually syncing in but 150 is not bad tbh!! Gonna keep doing research thanks for replying fast and making dope content! You most def earned my sub! Thanks! 😃😃😃👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿🙌🏿🙌🏿🙌🏿

they make a crystal sync motor for the newer models, rex 3 4 5 sb sbm. so yeah you’re gonna have to sync it but the speed will not drift which is a pain. this happens bc it’s powered by a spring and regulated by a spinning weight, so it’s variable the electric ones obviously already are synced

good question both i’ve ran a c300 on here which is also top heavy, and is pushing the weight limit. worked fine so if it was less tall, or if it was lighter, it would work. best bet when stabilizing a bolex is a more powerful gimbal or a steady cam, which i think im more lean towards, as i like the natural movement as compared to the robotic gimbal movement

@@GeoffreyGonzales right on, thanks for the reply! I've got a K3 and researching what stabilizer will be a good fit. I'm leaning towards a flycam

T.Y.G. yeah you can load in light. you can see the difference between loading in daylight and offload in a darkbag in a dark room by comparing the beginning and end of the footage. probably a bad habit. but it’s interesting to watch. think i was at f2 here which equals a f 4.5 depth of field on 35mm, set the focus by eyeballing the distance. on 16mm the falloff from focus to out of focus is more gradual compared with 35mm, and especially compared to 120mm. the bigger the surface area the steeper the falloff curve

@@GeoffreyGonzales 'k thanks!

you know i was wondering that myself. the film was loaded in daylight so we can expect a burn on opening, but was unloaded in a dark bag in a darkroom so idk about the closing burnout. could have been the viewfinder but the leak looks like spots and not a soft edged light bloom that you would expect from a light leak. its a possibility tho. another possibility is it might have been not dried completely after development, so when it was rolled out to be scanned the film was a little stuck to itself and peeled in the few droplets where we see the leak.

the bolex sbm is mechanical and you wind it up to power it the ebm is electric and needs a custom battery or wall mounted power. i know a couple people who have solved batteries for it, not too complex

@@GeoffreyGonzales thank you, ya I realized after watching it was the windup h16 haha

was shooting at 32p (slowed in post to 24) and wide open on this 10mm 1.4

Iguane Productions probably shouldn’t tho. vision 3 500t. got it from pro 8 in burbank. for reference the fipm burn at the start of the footage was from loading in daylight, and the light leaks at the end of the footage is from unloading in a changing bag

@@GeoffreyGonzales how do you get light leaks from unloading in a changing bag?

@@ollek um, yeah you’re right idk want i was trying to say here. not sure where it came from at the end

any 16mm film that is 100ft can be loaded in daylight as it has a daylight spool to cover most of the film from being exposed. Now "most" of the film is covered with the spool". if in daylight you will lose a few seconds while loading your camera or unloading your camera. But if you want every second of your film with no light leaks it is best to load and unload in complete darkness.

🤔

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lsRexSiCx20.html

the trigger can be locked when it is pressed

@@GeoffreyGonzales yes i know, but how was your workflow? You just locked the shutter and wasted some seconds before and after?

@@ignacioarayaramirez2726 frame it first, and then quickly flip the switch. the lock is like a switch on the side of the camera, takes about half a second to turn it on and off

it’s vision 500t, repackaged by pro8 in burbank

i drop it off at pro8 in burbank, they develop it. i get it scanned at 5k log overscan

geoffrey gonzales So lucky in California, there is no place in China to develop it，I have about 1600feet 16mm film not use ☹️

Victor Zhao wow that’s a lot of film. what kind? you can always shoot it and then mail it in to them to develop with a harddrive. might be expensive tho

geoffrey gonzales I have Korda 7203 7213 7207 7219，now I uploaded a video here of my bolex ，welcome to watch it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fmGgtpNeOX4.html

Casey Pflipsen 32p amd then i slowed it down slightly for here. softens up the movement a bit but still feels natural

@@GeoffreyGonzales thanks!

switar 10mm rx 1.4

Jordan this is the native ratio of 16mm. super 16mm, is shooting on the same film but people modify the camera so the image is captured wider at a 16:9 ratio

Tyson L 4444 🙃

Kristian Abenojar one 100’ roll (2 and a half minutes long at 24p) is 50$, to develop and scan at 6k is 100$ i just get the 150$ package from pro 8 in burbank you probably can get it under 100$ if you scan at lower resolutions

Abe SC yeah maybe. if i hae to shoot 16mm stabilized i’ll probably just go with a flycam, simpler less finicky and has more organic movement which will probably pair with the cellulose well

@@GeoffreyGonzales that makes sense! Also, side note, somebody made some adjustments to the rig you made that I think you might appreciate ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HzxGXvM8Qdg.html

he isnt responding to my dms

it didn’t work that well, very finicky. if i had to do it again i would try a flycam. but have at it - when i was testing it without a correction filter and nd filter and film it was working pretty well. also the gopro on top didn’t help the light leaks look like spatter to me, not soft as leaks tend to let me know how the footage turns out

if i remember correctly the bolex stuff was shot in 32p, slowed down 25% to 24p. bts commentary shot in 60p. the bolex footage duplicated 2.5 frames to fill so it’s still reads at 24p visually. this conversion is the same thing as watching a 24p movie at home on your 60hz tv / monitor.

that was my conclusion as well, at the end of the video

50d for sure. steadycam seems more realistic for this

i did orbits, tracking, and static shots. most shots for diolouge and fiction will be one of these. in a camera motion test, subject is irrelevant