Welcome to the modern youtube. Where interesting = click bait now apparently. I miss the good old days where it was just misleading stuff that sounded interesting but was a boring story.
Made me wonder if some sort of cam system could be used rather than a spring, so that the hammers engage the anvil more directly, rather than bouncing around. Would probably be a costly nightmare to manufacture though.
No it doesn't, since it strikes with way less energy than the first impact, therefore producing less torque and being inconsequential to smacking the nut or farstner.
I finally found out what S, H, and T stand for. I kid you not I spent 10 minutes searching for a model that had it, since they use 1-4 or a 1-9 digital display now, and then had to look through a PDF of the operator's manual. Soft, Hard, and Tighten. Soft for a gentler blow, Hard for really beating on your nuts, and Tighten to get it right to the edge without busting it. In case anyone was wondering, it was driving me crazy.
And there was me thinking T mode stood for "Tek mode" since it's used for Tek screws (self drilling screws for metal). It spins fast initially for the drilling part and then slows down for the impact part so as not to damage the threads formed in the metal. H and S stand for "Hard" and "Soft" according to the manual.
uhmw has superior wear resistance against low speed abrasion compared to hard steel. Its tougher so it deforms around abraision points and springs back rather than fretting, micro fracturing, or the plastic flow of softer steel.
I used to work with Makitas all the time building wind turbines. Once, one of them felt from the third tower to the second one inside (right next to me). It was a 25m drop. Grabbed it, pushed the button and continued to work (Note: it dropped on a metal floor, not on a soft spot that could work as a "pillow"). They are great tools.
one of these guns just survived a 25' drop at our jobsite yesterday. battery poped out. put er back in. no problems at all. no cracks.. nothing. kind of amazing
Pretty impressive. I've done a accidental karate kick to a pneutrend cordless impact wrench from 6'ish meters(20feet) Something came apart in the battery during that but when it works, it works fine.
dropped my Dewalt from about 20ft on to concrete and it survived too. battery didn't pop out but it did get cracked. i thought i was gonna be going to buy a new drill, very impressed how tough some of these tools have become
Tom Celona -- My makita slid off a roof of a two story home and 3 weeks ago! As i was staring in horror, it seemed to fall in slow motion, hit the concrete, battery flew into the bushes......15 minutes later she was back in business. No cracks, no chips, no scratches! I think that damn tool is either a zombie or knows how to skirt the laws of physics!
I dropped my old dewalt NIMH drill from 10ft and it imploded spread its guts all over the place. I dropped my Makita impact driver 14days after I got it there’s a scuff on the battery and a mark on the over moulding other than that it’s going grand. Cordless kit has moved a long way in past 5 years.
Love your videos! I work at an Ace hardware and these videos help me explain to customers just how complex tools and fasteners really are. Thanks for your commitment!
I can't get over the engineering. The sheer genius of design and invention. I realize everyone stands on the shoulders if the previous creator, but goddamn...just amazing to watch you disassemble and explain the work behind the tools...thx!
Cool stuff as always, thanks! I agree, I like the lower weight but I'm tired of the plastic clamshell overmolds! I miss the days of solid metal housings that you could clean with a rag and some gas!
AvE thank you for helping my anxiety and Asperger's there is nothing more satisfying than tearing something down other than watching someone else repeat my process
I don't even notice, I grew up with everybody using skookum. Its even part of place names around here. I'm not in Canadia but I am in the old chinook / H.B. Columbia district.
Holy hell my inbox, consider it paid! Your impact gun peep hole is way nicer than my angle grinder job, I wonder if I can fit a mill in the basement...
These guns are the best of them all. I work in the RV (Camping Trailer) business. These brushless Makita guns are the favorite 4 to 1 over all other brands combined. I own the first version of the Transmission model and still works like a dream after years of heavy industrial use.
The narration is given in the barest shop/garage grammar, but it does not subtract from the excellent descriptive summaries of the bill of materials and enginerding processess. An unparalleled introduction to troubleshooting and root cause investigations. A real pro presentation. Best mfking teardown video on yourtube.
Worked for a contractor in an Intel factory, I've been handed this impact driver brand new. Most of the work was attaching pipe hangers on the ceiling H rails - 22mm bolts, alot.. I was absolutely amazed - the auto-impact setting lets you tighten to a certain degree, keeping the trigger pressed and it starts ramping up the torque - got another couple of turns effortlessly as if the bolt was loose again. Awsome tool 👍👍👍😎
I love my Makita impact driver. It is one of the most ridiculously well balanced power tools I've ever used in my life in terms of weight distribution. This is a huge plus when you're using it at weird angles sideways upside down and so forth in terms of the strain it it's on your wrist. It is incredibly powerful and runs for a long time on a charge.
AvE, I never knew what an impact driver was for or how they worked until I watched this video. Thank you sir! Probably going to start my Milwaukee M18 tool collection with an impact driver now.
AvE shows us how to CAREFULLY remove stickers off of tools, etc so as to avoid voiding the warranty, then he machines a big hole in the driver end of an impact drill. I'm so confused! Joking aside, great videos!
My grandfather always loved makitas. He Used to have a bunch of life size makita girl posters in his shop. He used to have the old green ones with the battery that resembled a magazine on a pistol.
No lie, the potatovision "through the looking glass" speed hole in the top was fucking amazing. You get an A+ and a golf clap from me today for that. Honestly, that came out FAR better than I expected.
The music major in me appreciates the concert band music, while the 10 year old me who disassembled almost everything in the house appreciates the rest of the vijeo.
spent a full day of quality time with the new little makita brushless sub-compact hex-bit drive ... lordy, lordy, it packs a mighty wallop ... It's a very impressive thing with the 2.0Ah battery and just keeps going, when I switched to the 5.0Ah battery borrowed from the chainsaw, it made 4 inch coach bolts into redwood seem like drilling 3/32nd pilot holes into pine ... the new "A" mode (torque limits to drive screws) is marvelous, just keeps adding torque to maintain rip-'em ... goes from a quiet whirr to a clattering gatling gun driving the bolts home. Saved me a lot of grief on a ladder balancing with my knees.
yay thank you for putting that part at the beginning unlike how all the clickbaiters would have put a tiny snippet of that at the beginning and then put the rest of it in the middle of the video.
I've always wondered what the difference would be between the control loop in a brushless system like this in comparison to the ones in the hobbyist RC motors I'm familiar with. Those only have 3 wires for power to each field, and that's it.
The difference is the load. RC controllers use voltagespikes from one of the magnets passing by a coil to estimate the location of the rotor. But those RC motors stall way sooner then the tool version. (I know your comment is 3 years old but maybe someone else has the same question)
@@SuperUltimateLP Some hobby motors have hall-effect sensors in them for position. They're called sensored motors and most people use them in crawlers from their excellent control at low speed.
I did this when i restored a piece of old (100 and some) fence. And at the time my forge setup sucked balls. So i did what all industrious people do, used a Makita to twist 1cm thick bar. It worked, for a while, until i cooked the battery in its own juices. Smelled like burnt pork for a few days after that.
I saw that coming, after dismantling many impacts, that flat part of the aluminum housing is there to help it stay together with the plastic housing and keep it from spinning
I think the two ratings are under different conditions: max speed 3600rpm with no load and 1900rpm with infinite load. Amazing slowmo shot there! Are you planning to get a dedicated non-potato high speed camera? Also doesn't the hammer retract because the motor twists the spring and pulls back the hammer?
Thanks AvE, Thanks to your channel I went out and bought my first impact wrench. The only problem is I am now looking for stuff to use it on over and above the one I bought it for... *evil cackle* My toolkit used to be all electronics and computers. It is now half mechanicals as well. Doing the welding on my van, installing a tow bar this weekend and much more. You are an inspiration........ And a trouble causer :)
learn a lot from your videos, they are entertaining and educational, not just in terms of the tools but other stuff too Thankyou for linking Nick Moore's videos, the one about the Paul Trap helped but things into context what the lecturer was saying
Just wanted to say thanks for your Makita tear down. I held off buying cordless tools for years because I thought they were low on torque and rather anemic. But now after buying the impact torque wrench from Makita... HOT DAMN! That's a beast! Will need a bigger battery though. Thanks!
On the tab on the foot its three speeds and the "T" is for self tapping in sheetmetal. High speed until it penetrates the metal and then once it feels the screw bite it slows down so you dont blow the hole out. Really nice feature. Ive used this exact impact for the last 3+ year. Have definately punched some 3/8 hex holes in some fender washers with this thing
And fan boy all my tools run of the same m18 5.0 and 9.0 batteries....buy yourself a rapid base charger and I can charge 6 9.0 batteries in 25 minutes fanboy.....get your facts straight
I think the max spinning speed is measured without load and the hammering frequency is measured with load, and the actual motor speed at that moment drops significantly.
The contact leads are definitely nickel instead of chrome plated. Nickel is also resistant to oxidation and the process of swapping the batteries refreshes the contact surface to maintain the conductivity of the contact point. Also, the T mode is for use with self-tapping screws. The slower ramp-up to rated RPM makes it much more controllable for getting the self-tapping screw started on a metal surface without center-punching.
the spring and hammer is tuned for driving standard 3" #8 construction screws in pine at full power, having the bit clamped in a vice or driving a big lag bolt with lots of resistance will make the hammer act differently
SWEET! I literally just bought that Makita a few weeks ago to replace the other Makita (Brushed motor) that I had. I thought It would be a minor upgrade but man, it kinda blew me away with its great performance. Got my dad the Milwaukee impact for father's day this year so yea...i'll be showing him this video
That's AvE: he shows you something you wouldn't have thought possible, then he carefully screws-up a good idea, which he fixes to show you something really cool!!
