The old hole hog will wrap you up and beat you against every wall in the room if you get it bound up! It will not only break your arms, but the arms of everyone trying to rescue you from its deathly grip. I believe the hole hog was used to start the earth on its permanent rotation.
InsideOfMyOwnMind, sometimes I surprise myself. I have used an old school hole hog. I can promise, I'd probably rather wrestle a wild hog as it would be less work and much safer. Lol
InsideOfMyOwnMind, maybe if it's secured to its own concrete foundation. I don't remember off the top of my head what the max recommended bit size is. However, I think you could reliably auger light pole foundations with it. It would've been safer if it were marketed as a skidsteer attachment. Lol
Many, many, moons ago when I was doing plumbing work, the company I worked for bought a Milwaukee Hole Hawg new for us to use installing plumbing in a log home. As it happened where the owners wanted a toilet was in a small closet like corner of the bathroom. That meant I had to drill a 3 5/8" hole directly through a large log beam. Using a 3 5/8" self-feed bit I got started drilling the hole. The next thing I knew I was bodily jerked off my feet and violently slammed into the walls of the toilet "closet" several times. Thankfully somehow during my impromptu and unwanted merry-go-round trip, I had managed to unplug the drill. Once I quit shaking, I surveyed for bodily damage, finding nothing serious I sheepishly measured, cut, threaded, and installed a piece of pipe in the drill for a reaction bar so that it did not happen again. From that day on I respected and feared that drill and I dreaded using it for any purpose.
in my old work we had big impact hammer drill with no clutch. one day we were installing speaker hangers on the gym in a some kind of hardwaring brick wall and my coworker start spinning on that drill 2 meters above the ground after that we secided to use smaller and shorter bolts to hang those speakers because if one 3/4"wide 3 inches deep hole is strong enough to spin grown man on a drill there is no way it would not hold 250w speaker that man can lift from the ground alone.
Left California to Lost Wages, to get rich, found myself on the business end of a holehog for 6 months drilling 2 and 9/16ths holes all day. @ 20years old and 195 lbs spending the last 2 years in the gym. I got to tell ya my foreman made it look easy 40 year old Wisconsin graybeard. Could dead stop it. So he turned it over to me, I was 2nd story up wise doing a vent thru roof, dam framer started sipping early that day put 15 nails in a 2x4.anyway I'm drilling the hole in outside wall it bit down on a nail I bit down on it it chucked me right out of house. If n it hadn't Ben for my cat like reflexes I'd be dead. Six months of shenanigans with that hole hog, and I was ready to sweat copper. Stay in school kids. Hole hoggin ain't easy
we have one of these (obviously) but someone lost the side handle. So me being 170 and just under six foot this thing was ready to toss me off the second story roof, luckily it was only a 5in duct vent hole through some cedar siding. Luckily this hog hasn’t beat me yettt...
I remember being a young Mario in the field when I first encountered this beast of a hawg. My old man warned me to brace it against a stud and me being a strapping young man said I am the stud. As soon as this hawg kicked it whipped back and hit me in the jaw. Stumbling off the ladder I learned my lesson of respecting this boar. Radmatazz video.
I used one of those for 15 years with a long paddle bit to mix tile thin set and shower pan mortar. I had a guy break a thumb and one guy who held on and ended up spinning around a 5 gallon bucket until the cord disconnected. He ended covered in mortar the rest of day, I never saw him again, thankfully. That tool outlasted my ability to lay tile and has a place of honor in my shop.
the_eddies who on earth thought a hole hawg was the ideal tool for mixing grout and mortar, 😂 I know your being honest , but dang you gave me a great laugh.
Was gunnar mention that. But he only reason I knew some a treaded is because I was drilling a 14mm hole through a post one day with my cordless drill and snapped the center screw when the bit named on me so I put the drill in reverse to take it out and the chuck unscrewed itself off the drill. That poor old drill is still running to this day without the retaining screw in it.
that's what i was thinking the entire time he was wailing on it lol. it's probably threaded in the opposite direction of the retaining screw, kinda like that one dewalt brushless drill i had to fix that one time.
If I am not mistaken the reason you were not able to remove the chuck is printed right on the side of it. It is not a taper chuck, but rather a 5/8 threaded chuck. Hence the reason for the left hand center screw.
The ring is split at the factory. The outer gear holds the two ring halves of the ring together and against the jaw racks. The left thread screw stops the chuck unscrew itself when the drill is run in reverse, which, once the left thread screw is out, is a much easier way of removing the chuck. Let the tool pull itself apart. Hard to do though if the tool is already mostly apart 😀
My favorite memory was working as an electchicken apprentice standing 6 feet up a ladder drilling a fence post to use to sleeve a wire for a future light. Sure they sell them predrilled but what fun would that be?! I got about chuck deep and all was fine until sparky walked over with a bit extension. As soon as that was on the bit and tight in the chuck he said “ok wait a second” as he got down from the other side of the ladder and stepped about ten feet away then said “ok, go for it!” Wish I knew then why he got that far away but lesson learned! Soon as I started it bound and I learned a valuable lesson. Bumbles DO bounce! I came down after a 1 1/2 twist and a perfect splash into a huge puddle on my head! That was over 30 years ago but like yesterday when I see any of the guys from my old crew because that’s the first thing to come up after “hello!” Good times!
This one had me in tears, laughing at the tele' as more and more was being thrown at the chuck when it just needs unscrewing. I suppose Mr AvE is much more used to fitting chucks to his mill (which are of course often already mounted on an arbor). Either that or he's just messing with us of course.
Believe it or not, the way to remove the chuck is to have the tool fully assembled, remove the left hand locking screw, then lay the drill on its side and put a short bolt in one of the chuck key holes just above parallel with the bench, then give it a sharp hit downward with a hammer. That usually cracks it loose, then you can spin it off by hand. It sounds like butchery, but that's the way it was done in the 80's (they probably use x-ray lasers or something nowadays). Edit: I should probably add that the chuck shaft's threaded . Please stop brutalizing it with the breaker. Also, the tabs going into the switch come out by just popping them straight out with a screwdriver.
On the threaded chucks you can also clamp the largest Allen key that will fit into the chuck and tap on the end of the key to rotate it off ( once you have removed the retainer screw of course )
From the owner's manual: Chuck Removal To remove the chuck from the drill: 1.Unplug tool. 2.Fully open the chuck jaws 3.Remove the left-handed thread screw from inside the chuck by turning it clock-wise. 4.Pull the chuck off of the spindle. NOTE: If the chuck does not pull off of the spindle easily, tap the side of the chuck with a hammer to loosen it. If this doesn't work, contact a MILWAUKEE service center.
Cardboard sleeve is to reduce conduction of heat from motor to housing, ref cooler to operator. With regard to regreasing, power tools, try to use as light a grease as possible, ref NLGI grade 0, or 1. Keep chomping on your bench chap!
On the chuck.... look at the small print on the chuck barrel (@ 26:52).... I think it says THD 5/8-18 ......... means it's a threaded mount onto the arbor..... generally RH thread. Because this drill is a reversing model, they add the LH-threaded machine screw inside the chuck to keep it from unthreading during reversing operations. Most hand-held drills would use a 3/8-24 mount---- this Hole Hawg is Maximum Skookum, I guess. They want the bit to shear-- not the drill's arbor.
My rule for quoting machine shop parts is this: pick 2 out of these 3. Time, price, precision If you want it fast and cheap it’s gonna be crappy. Fast and skookum will cost ya. Cheap and skookum will take time to fit into the schedule.
The set screw is left hand thread, but the chuck is right hand threaded onto the shaft. Also those 3 teeth that hold the drill bit will be numbered and have to be installed in the right order to work. It's the same setup as a 3 jaw lathe chuck
I’ve always wanted you to open up a Rigid Power pony we elechickens use to thread pipe. They’re super beefy and could flip a 200 pound gorilla like it’s nothing.
Years ago doing plumbing I was drilling a toilet flange hole in a new construction with one of those. The hole saw grabbed the floor, spun me around through a 2x6 corner, and procceeded to to pin my hand to the floor still squeezing the trigger. I grabbed the wire with my free hand and gave it a few yanks to get it unplugged enough to let me go. Moral of the story: those things are the best drills on the planet.
Dude, you killed me with that "always be knolling". I couldn't finish that self rightious pricks video for the life of me. I was afraid that if I devoted it to memory I would turn into a mini tyrant.
That big helical gear was most likely double-disc ground. Think of it as a small Blanchard grinder set up for high production. Both sides are ground simultaneously. The parts are inserted into a pocket in a rotating disc that is rotated through 2 grinding wheels. High production stuff....
I was raised by plumbers. It's kinda like being raised by wolves, except I'm handy around the house. When I was a teenager, I was handing fittings to my dad, who was up on a scaffolding, running some plumbing. He was up on his tip-toes, drilling a hole for 3" pipe, & apparently hit a nail with the selfeed bit in the Hole Hawg. The pipe handle popped out of his hand & whacked him upside the head so hard it shattered *BOTH* his upper & lower dentures. I can't remember exactly what my brother was doing, but he managed to catch his pant leg with a selfeed bit about 4" below the crotch, it wound his pant leg up so tight they had to cut off his pants to give him the stitches. So yeah, I've got some healthy respect for the beast known as a Hole Hawg.
Heeeey, the contractor crew I worked with (me and an ol' flooring greybeard) had somethin' similar to one of these! 'Course, the grounding pin was missing (what for giving you a nice shock in the morning to wake you up!), thing was heavier than frig (being made out of good ol' steel) and the damn thing would send your ass into a low earth orbit if you weren't careful, but I've never found a better tool for mixing grout and thinset since.
MR AvE I have a really really old jigsaw by Black n Decker. I didn't know they made such great tools back then. This jigsaw is so skookum I was surpriced to see that still works all metal almost no plastic
My dad had his dad's jigsaw, all metal beige painted, it was a damn well made thing, remember being allowed to use it once when I was a kid...asked my dad recently about...it seemingly torched itself one day..
+AvE I don't know if it's already been mentioned or not but the nut in the chuck that you thought you broke is supposed to be like that - it is broken in half at the factory. How else would you get it past the flange?
"Hard to swallow ..." Haaaahhhaaaahhhaaa ! Yer a sick man Charlie Brown ... my kind of people . My stepdad had a conventional styled Milwaukee from the late 50s ... 1" chuck . The thing took about 10 seconds to wind down after you let off the go button . Two wire power and it did have leakage , which contributed to the development of my descriptive references . The beast used 3/4" pipe for handles and the largest drill I ever used was 2" ... I had step-drilled a 1" piece of steel boiler plate (making a plow blade for our big cat) out to 1.5" and had the 2" drill chucked up ... a little shot of heavy duty liquid foreplay and we were off to the races . I was leaning into the drill motor (over the top) , hanging on to both handles for all I was worth when stepdad walked up and shouted "how you doin' shitbird" (a reference to my early welding abilities) ? I turned my head to reply and the drill bound up and the motor wound my arms up , broke from my grip , made a half turn with both handles whacking me near the elbows and threw me about four feet . I laid on the ground moaning , still trying to figure out what happened and I could hear the motor winding down . Then my stepdad said ; "good thing you didn't have the trigger locked down" . PS ... I have found that the best way to remove a chuck on a piece of gear I have not worked on before is to go online and RTFM .
17yrs old I was when I had my first near death experience with that same drill. Damm near ended up on a parade float I hadn't seen the likes of before with a wrist so limp I woulda been the prize at the ball....live and learn. Love the content man. -Pidge
I fix these for a living. First, how was it running with that spade connector off? Must've just been still touching the terminal but would've broken contact with any vibration. Second, the trminals on the switch are actually flat prongs that slide in. The only thing holding them in there is a slight bend (much like when you bend the prongs of a power cord together to get a more positive grip on the receptical). These routinely fail because the bend relaxes with heat and become loose. Finally, the gears constantly explode on the jobsite. With so many gears and it not being made for formula 1, there's a lot of play between forward and back. Never, ever reverse when the gears are moving. It's so common for those gears to break because of that. Bonus info, there's 2 different chucks, a screw on and a slotted. The slotted slides off, the screw on requires a special tool with 2 tabs on a plate and a hole in the middle to put it on the back side and hold the shaft while you crank on chuck (reverse thread chuck screws must be removed on both). Keep ur dick in a vise.
I vaguely remember a mr pete video in where he takes a chuck apart and explains that "that part" you think you broke, is meant to be in two pieces. The chuck manufacture machines it, and then breaks it to fit into place. ...Am I smoking crack?
@@jonWilk8156 they don't break perfect and thats the whole goal of them, gets way more surface area in the joint. They support half the cap up to the break line then either press or whack it off.
I'm a plumber and this tool is all business. Takes two hands and more depending on the hole size. I have twisted drill bit shanks before with this tool. Great video as always you crazy guy!
Well yes, some were concerned about the lingering cough you had going. Multiple, multiple and multiple cruds caught on those airplane flights. Generally 3 day incubation for resp viral and 10-14 days incubation period for bacterial cruds. Nowadays double cruds found in the ear. One crud will localize external ear canal and another will localize around the eardrum. The crud found in the external ear canal is easy to clear.... the one around the eardrum not so, lasts for weeks, no real pain just pressure and hearing loss. If that eardrum ruptures, grab a culture and sensitivity. May need double antibiotics for 3 wks to fully clear. This last crud can isolate/localize/colonize to other sites and cause more problems. Stay on top of that ear problem, hopefully caught and properly treated..... On that drill you have to be a gymnast from hell to run that thing.
.... with the steroid knocking down the inflammation on the eustachian tube and allowing drainage, good time for at least a gram stain on a throat smear. Any gram pos cocci pulled off and cultured. There's reason for that.... can't call it neglect, who wants to go to some crappy clinic and crappy MD. Length of duration of the ear problem is what sends up a big red flag. I don't think the gtts had much effect and there's a suppressed immune response going on. Steroids are a double edged sword. I'd load up on ETOH , canadian blendeds my favorite.
Matt H - before EZ Pass my "favorite" toll collector and i recycled the same half-dollar for two years like it was a hot potato. He would smile when i gave it to him (BTW he started it ;-)
I'm German, and we apprentices had a "Mafell" (or was it a Metabo?) "hand"-drill to feed our nightmares. It had a 1 1/4 hp three-phase motor in it. Boss told us ten times to NEVER use that thing alone and the drill bits for it (it used tapered bits) were locked up in a special drawer. The 'thing' was responsible for numerous broken bones and countless busted out teeth anyways. The 70s were a great time to grow up...
I thought the chucks had a threaded stub shaft into the back of them and the reversed screw was just there to stop the whole thing unscrewing while it's in use?
The hole hawg is the best!! Nothing drives a bit like this bad boy. I rented one from a local tool shop for my Eagle Scout project when I was 17. We had to drill 16” deep holes at 5/8” to drive rebar through two jointed 4x8’s and another full 4x8 below. Gas powered Stihl couldn’t even get through the first 8” before running out of torque. The hole hawg on high could easily get though 12 inches, and on low it went all the way to dirt like the wood was butter. My Eagle Scout project would not have been possible if it wasn’t for this tool. I also nearly broke my wrists so many times with it! But we had so much fun we didn’t even care
Would you say this would work for mixing drywall compound even in our frozen winters? I want me one as soon as you said I could put my pipe end in the handle receptacle bit I lost the handle to my new dewilts and almost broke my wrist the other day when it got caught
I can't explain how scared I was of using this wrist buster when I was first becoming an electrical apprentice. One of my coworkers twisted his arm and shocked me about his story.
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus although showing my own baby apprentice (after not using one of these monsters for a couple years) the Way of the Hawg gave me the cold sweats as well!
I had one spin/beat me between 2 wall studs until the cord wrapped around me enough to unplug once when I was a 1st year. I grew up on a farm and knew one of these but I was drilling up for wire runs and didn't have anywhere to let go or drop it when it caught a nail. Only thing to do was let off the trigger and hold on for the ride. Watched a more muscles than sense 1st year break both thumbs one day because he was bigger than me and thought I was BSing him when I told him the thing will throw him across the room. Was his first week on the job but after that he did listen to me when I tried to teach him something.
Got the same problem with my old air drill. Chucks dickered and can't set the Jeezlus thing off no matter how much I swear. Thinking maybe oxy gouge the corkstuffer and prey to the blue flame lords.
Some drill chuck's or threaded on the shaft instead of using a Morse taper to lock it on ... Make sure you take out the little retaining screw or bolt at the bottom of the inside of the chuck then clamp the Chuck in a vice or some vice grips's hold on for dear life and turn the drill on and forward or reverse and it should come undone I don't know which way the threads will be cut on your particular drill so you will have to try both forward and reverse but I am betting reverse will do it
cucking funt - Doesn't trying to pull a theaded fastener "straight out" trump "pounding a round peg into a square hole" by a factor of three? I can talk, because I spent quite a bit of frustrating time tying to muscle a General Motors rear disc brake piston back into the caliper, and even bought a new caliper because i thought mine was jammed, until somehow i found out that unlike the fronts, which i have done many times, the rear pistons were THREADED into the caliper to effect adjustment :-p
If you look on the chuck it reads 5/8-11 which means it is threaded onto the shaft. The ring you said you broke is supposed to be in two pieces, so you can get the jaws out if you have to replace/repair them. If removed the jaws have to be put back in place in proper sequence so the jaws emerge correctly.
Great teardown, interesting info about the serviceability of the grease. Something we often take for granted, can be the downfall of many a quality grunt tool.
I was pushing a fireline on a dozer one day and noticed some smoke coming out from under my seat. Well 99.9% of the time it's just pine straw or leaves that have accumulated and an ember gets in there and starts smoking. This time when I reached under the seat to brush out the pine straw, no gloves of course, someone had put some of that 1/4 inch yellow poly rope under my seat and that was on fire with the straw and the leaves. You just can't run away or shake melting poly of your fingers fast enough, caused a 3rd degree burn. I got a little grease off a zerk and covered the burn and kept working but after that day I always checked under my seat before I started work.
Ouch. Anybody that's melted that stuff to seal the ends and forgot to lick their fingers before molding it smooth can imagine just how much that had to hurt. I'm impressed you kept control of that dozer, much less finished the day out.
Local salvage yard uses one of these with a 1/2" drive socket adapter to spin engines. Makes it easy to test compression and oil pressure before buying. They put a 3 foot long handle on to keep it under control.....
Great video. I've had mine for about ten years or more and yes it's a beast. I've got it apart now because I'm replacing the cord. So, while it's apart I'm going to finish removing the cheap paint job and polishing the case. The finish started flaking a year after purchase. Total disappointed with Milwaukee for that. Other than that, its been a super tool. The handle that came with mine is almost 12 inches long. And you're right, galvanized pipe with a big rubber handle. Thanks for the video. I was checking out which direction the chuck unscrews. Then found out it just slides on. Easy peasy. Thanks again 👍
As an engineer iv'e seen far worse done by so called mechanics that i've had to put right And that beauty is only a tool that is educating Ave so yes it's fun to watch as are all his video's there's nothing sick about me watching him! Plus i don't judge others in what they do remember you are here also and if that pains you move on
Probably 1/2-20, and yes, the threaded collar is supposed to be split. Sometimes AvE surprises me with what he doesn't know. Fortunately, his fan base fills that gap. :)
If some old engineers who were around to designed proper tools made to last got together and made a set of tools on kickstarter that had the good old quality but with some of the advantages of newer tech , do you think they'd succeed?
+biana doubt why sell 1 million drills to 1 million people? When you can sell 100 million drills to 1 million people. I Dew reclaw after ww2 American manufacturers terrified of americans buying one of something for life, out of that fear came style and design. suddenly how it looks and makes the buyer feel became more important than does it work and will it keep working.
