BOLTR REDUX: YETI How it works | Enginerding Stainless Steel 

I just wanted to point out I think you misspoke when you were talking about austenitic stainless steel's phase change when cold worked. The phase change is not from austenite to ferrite it is austenite to martensite. Martensite is basically just elongated austenite. This phase change would also be magnetic.

I love learning science and chemistry from a guy that sounds like a drunk uncle.

Alongside my Dad and David Attenborough I'm going to have to add AvE to the list of worlds educators of all time. The man is brilliant. Best Videos on RU-vid.

that little pellet in the bottom is a getter. it keeps the vacuum 'clean'. it works similar to the getter in a vacuum tube and for the same reason.

I miss the days of "A treat especial!" everytime. Rewatching the Hilti teardown for the nostalgia.

Seeing AvE up to the forearm was like seeing my Amish wife's ankles for the very first time. Foolala!

I'm in a metallurgy class in college yet I learn more on this channel than I do in class

Your best video to date. Albeit you were talking about 304, this may help others about stainless. As a stainless welder with maritime tool welding. I can assure you that 316L stainless does not rust unless the metal is heated to near liquid state. I can grind, sand, or polish stainless and dip it right into sea water and leave it there for long periods of time without any rust at all. It greys, but that is about it. However, any weld joints will be slightly or fully magnetic and form a rust layer slowly over time. I built my first boat frame out of 316 stainless and still use it today and all the exposed weld joints that WERE NOT ground down have slight browning/rust on them. However, 1cm past the weld joint, and there is no rust at all. All the weld joints that are exposed and WERE ground down have no rust or browning. These joints are kept near the sea 24/7, are never rinsed with fresh water, and endure all the weathering that mother nature tries to throw at me. So, yeah, your 304 grade of stainless is garbage stainless. 316 is the gold standard of the maritime industry.

That disk is probably a getter material to collect the Oxygen when heated, the magnetic section is probably a result of an induction heating to get the getter to react with o2 generating the vacuum since their is not a vacuum port on the Dewar .

That little doodad you found inside the can is probably a "getter". You see them in vacuum tubes and ark lamps. They're meant to absorb certain gases like those released from outgassing materials in the vacuum chamber (if memory serves me right). I think they're meant to be heated up in the last stages of manufacturing. I've seen some very old induction heating machines on the market for this purpose. I'm not sure why there would be one in a thermal flask though - I wouldn't have thought it was that important to keep a perfect vacuum to stop the heat transfer but maybe I'm wrong. Or perhaps it's to prevent some chemical/meterlergical reaction. No idea really what it's for but a 'getter' makes more sense than a security device as it's essentially in a Faraday cage, shielded from detection.

i work at a major outdoor manufacturer.. Those little things are called a Duralumin button that keeps the gasses inert until it gets welded.

I love these highly technical videos. You're trying to teach, not prove how smart you are. Which makes you a good teacher.

Watching him bend that steel with his fingers: "Oh shit, I know where this is going..." Bad memories resurfacing.

I'm a materials scientist and this was the nicest explanation of oxidation and passivation layers that I've ever heard.

That little nubbin inside there is probably a getter, to absorb stray air molecules. They usually get fired after the device is made and sealed, either by an induction heater or by direct heat.

This guy reminds me of an organic chemistry teacher I had. I always enjoyed learning from that guy.

2 things. 1 there is little concern of the copper inside (that normal people don't expose) of getting damaged. If it was there is little chance of oxidation in a vacuum. 2 the little dip dad in the bottom is less likely to be a tracker installed by big brother, and more likely to be what is referred to as a getter. A getter is something added to high end vacuum systems like vacuum tubes. At that price they better add everything. I really enjoy your videos. You have saved me money by avoiding crap tools. Keep at it.

That thing in the bottom of the can, that you think might be some sort of security device, looks like some sort of 'getter', as in vacuum tubes - maybe to control oxidation or corrosion inside the unit.

My favorite youtuber by far. Real workin man who teaches us young bucks great stuff like this. This taught me a ton thank you.

Great explanation of why stainless steels rust. Now it makes total sense. Thanks

19:36 - where is part 2!

The button inside is a "getter" just like in a vacuum tube, look it up.

I'm betting that little bead iin there is a getter material that absorbs gases, helps maintain the vacuum as things outgas inside there.

Love your figures of speech man. You sound like you've worked for a living in multiple skilled trades but still have a sense of humor!

Everything is fascinating when you dig deep enough.

:30 Know the feeling well, from taking apart the computer controlled carb on my new stihl 661c-m (1200 dollhairs). Drove me nuts not knowing what was going on in there, lol.

Ah, NE555! As a youngster Vietnam vet working for Pitney Bowes in the mid-'70's building electronic test equipment, the old triple nickel was my go-to chip.

I just learned more fom this vijayho in 16 minutes (x1.25), than I did in 3 years of weekly Chemistry lessons at school. Thanks! :-)

Did this for my high school kids last year before the covid and whatnot. Cut a double and single walked bottle apart and had them figure out why one works so much better.

6:27 "Copper coating it, due to the electronegativity of the materials, causes steel to rust." Aren't you forgetting something? I'm pretty sure you need an electrolyte (such as water) in order to create a current and corrode the less noble metal. No such thing should be present in that cavity unless the vacuum is breached, though. Neither should you be able to scratch the copper surface unless you cut a hole in the outer wall. :) 8:00 Could that be some sort of material designed to suck up the last few oxygen molecules that may be present in the (not-yet-a) vacuum? Similar things were done in the era of vacuum tubes.

Well done, wish I had these vids back when I was going to college. You make it easy to pick up what your putting down. Thanks!

Love when you go into the theory behind the design. Keep up the good work.

AvE you have a great breadth and depth of knowledge with just the right amount of irreverence! I love the discussion below with everyone running for their Materials Textbooks. It has been a long while since I studied stainless steel phase diagrams but I do work with people who make all sorts of stuff out of stainless. 3XX series stainless is generally referred to as austenitic stainless because the high chromium content. Perhaps the fact that Chromium is a smaller atom than iron means that it stays austenitic (ie the crystal has enough space to remain FCC on cooling). Now 4XX series stainless are known as ferritic stainless and I am guessing (because I studied this 30 years ago and am too lazy to spend too much time on it) this is because nickel is bigger than Cr and Fe so prefers BCC. Now the issue of magnetism. Austenitic Stainless is generally non-magnetic while both ferritic and martensitic are magnetic (martensite is a tetrahedron and not FCC if memory serves me). Now ferritic stainless has a much greater percentage of nickel which in itself is magnetic so this complicates the discussion. Finally 3xx (FCC) series should be more formable than 4XX (BCC) tighter slip plane ... however austenitic stainless transforms to martensite during cold working. So if you are drilling or cutting 3XX series usw a low rotation speed and a high feed rate. I once made $$ doing some drilling/tapping of paint booth fittings for a company who did not understand how to prevent the formation of martensite when cold working. I will leave you with a few lines by a some friends of mine from Ohio State, Rob Wagoner and JK Lee (two of the top metalforming gurus anywhere): "The forming behavior of austenitic stainless steels (types 201, 301, and 304) and ferritic stainless steels (types 437, 439, 444, and 468) was investigated. The tensile behavior and the forming-limit diagrams (FLDs) for these grades were determined. The ferritic alloys behave similarly to plain carbon steels and are relatively insensitive to small variations of strain rate and temperature. The formability of the austenitic alloys is influenced greatly by martensitic transformation during straining." Metallurgical and Materials Transactions August 1998, Volume 29, Issue 8, pp 2161-2172 | Cite as Formability of stainless steel , V. Talyan R. H. Wagoner, J. K. Lee

PB ratio of 1.6 is only 17% larger for each dimension. (Via cube root of 1.6) You could point that out because 60% sounds like much more.

Corrosion of metals is an electrochemical process, and if any one of the following 4 conditions listed are missing, then the process of corrosion will not occur. 1. Anode 2. Cathode 3. Metallic Pathway 4. Electrolyte - any substance which disassociates into ions when in solution, or a fused state and which will then conduct an electric current (as defined by NACE) Oxygen, temperature, and humidity will affect the rate at which corrosion will occur, although high enough humidity in the right conditions can create a suitable electrolyte. Also interesting to see you touching things such as passivation, dissimilar metals, and even the galvanic series. No matter what though, if you are missing any one of the 4 requirements, you don't have any corrosion.

I believe that the "button" in the bottom is an anode to prevent the rust or corrosion you mentioned after cutting the jeezless thing open....

the steel and copper wont rust because the copper elector coating should be in a vacuum, with very little o2 to react with.

AvE IR upper torso reveal! Nice!

"The guy could fuck up sunshine" Love it

Too bad you didn't weigh it before you cracked it open, then you could have calculated how perfect of a vacuum it had based on the change in mass, the current air density and the volume of the displaced area. It might take a very precise scale to do that based on how very little volume the vacuum chamber is.

I'm hooked on the knowledge you are sharing and look forward to watching more!

Sorry for being late to the party, love the videos, the humor, and learning new things. What does BOLTR stand for?

I remember investigating the pump room of a large indoor municipal swimming pool once. They were having to replace all the stainless steel pipe hangers and mounting hardware every year because the chlorine would just suck the iron right out of it...

this mentions at number 3 the small object welded in bottom of cup or bottle is clearly a getter. The major manufacturing production processes of stainless steel water bottle is: 1.Bottle Body Production: 1.raw material → 2.shaping of outer cup and inner tank → 3.welding getter on the bottom piece → 4. copper lining on the surface of inner tank (optional) → 5. welding to join the outer shell with inner tank together → 6. ultrasonic cleaning → 7. vacuum producing (test vacuum 100% first time) → 8. electrolysis → 9. polishing (test vacuum 100% second time) → 10. decoration (painting, powder coating, water transfer, heat transfer printing, laser engraving, silk-screen printing etc.)

Just bought 4 of these a few weeks ago. They make the beer go down lol

if you want INSTANT corrosion, heat up some H2O2 on the stove and dissolve as much salt into it as you can. I use this to rust axe heads, then I boil them in H2O to convert the red rust to black rust.

That little button on the inside is a "getter" helps hold the vacuum over a longer period of time. Try striking it with steel... you'll get a helluva flash.

Ave is def “our guy”

One of your best videos ever. Thanks for the great info in an understandable way!

Awesome video! Chrome does not help stabilize the austenite at lower temperatures but Nickel does. Check out a schaeffler delong diagram to see which elements do what.

Is that a desiccant of some sort? It would make sense with the rust issue you were speaking of.

That nub thing is flammable, briefly lit during the production process to create the vaccuum

Mildly stainless steel (301/302) up to intermediate grades (304/316) can become quite magnetic when it is cold worked. Since these are deep drawn cups, the stretch in that band will be quite severe. Annealing it with the torch relieves that stress.

this is why i love this chanel. you dont simplify the concepts but you do simplify the words so that any 200 pound gorilla can understand what you are saying. we want the big concepts but we want the little words! well i say you simplify the words... realy, you are just using words that are so unintelligible that the viewer has to instinctually interpret your masculine grunting

When you put 304 stainless in like a bending machine or stamp it like your kitchen zink it gets a little magnetic were it has been worked. It's JFM! Ps: Love the T- shirts and stickers! Patrik from Sweden!

I am guessing that little bead inside the bottom is a material that absorbs any outgassing of the other components to maintain a high vacuum. Electron tubes had that inside and it was called a "getter". It was that sliver looking coating on the inside of vacuum tubes.

We used those same material to aid in drawing a vacuum in television sets. You apply an inductive heat and it absorbed the air. Getter something

That is probably like a "GETTER" like in vacuum tubes, they heat it up and it burns up the rest of the air to make a better vacuum.

hey man, when you said that copper will rust the interior, isn´t rust FEo2? so... if there is a vacuum and no air, how can it rust?

Copper and stainless steel are reasonably compatible from a corrosion perspective. Copper in contact with ordinary steel will cause the steel to act as a sacrificial anode for the copper, like you say. But because of the vacuum, it probably doesn't matter anyway.

At @11:30 (The graph explanation) I started making the Aaaah, I understand face. I was actually drifting off and thinking of where he got the portable bandsaw.

Turns out you were right thinking they cheaped out with the copper coating on the internals, silver is the better of the elemental IR mirrors without getting into the complicated germanium, selenide and fluoride reflectors.

i was impressed with the yeti one as a consumer, crack a beer in one, forget it for 2 hours and come back to the same cold beer, if its carbonated of coarse thats kinda gone, but man, its pretty cool technology. this video kind of justified the $25 usd, i use it mostly when kayaking, beers always cold

Interesting remarks about the copper surface. I did not know that copper has higher reflectivity than nickel or rhodium in the near infrared. But normally copper would be covered in oxide, making it a worse IR reflector than those metals. It works here because it's inside a vacuum - assuming that the piece gets pumped out faster than the oxide can form.

Not sure if you will see this.. since the video is older. Could you explain how the security tag made of ferrite works from the inside of the steel cup? Very cool video and channel! Very cool info about copper and ir!

I thing that lil tab at the bottom with the disc is maybe a chemical reactor for gases in the mug just because maybe it would be easier that making an actual vacuum

RU-vid: "Hey guys Lit mobile just sent over this powerbank" Me: I can't be the only one...

The "nubbin" attached to the inside-bottom of the container is almost certainly a "getter" pellet. A getter is a deposit of reactive material that is placed inside a vacuum system, for the purpose of completing and maintaining the vacuum. When gas molecules strike the getter material, they combine with it chemically or by absorption. Thus the getter removes small amounts of gas from the evacuated space. The getter is usually a coating applied to a surface within the evacuated chamber. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Getter A getter is used in many products that have to maintain a vacuum over a long period of time. Concerning the copper electroplating - You were concerned that the copper would oxidize (perhaps you said corrode). Copper (or any metal) can only oxidize if exposed to oxygen/air. In a vacuum, all (almost all) of the oxygen/air has been removed. Therefore the copper cannot oxidize. Ed Schutheis, P.E. Mechanical engineer

The coppers in a vacuum, so it shouldn't rust ... No oxygen to oxidize

That pellet is used for increasing the vacuum. The chamber is first filled with oxygen, displacing other gasses. Then the oxygen is mostly removed with a vacuum pump. The remaining oxygen reacts chemically with easily oxidizing material (e.g. magnesium) and forms a solid.

This has instantly become one of my favorite RU-vid videos and I watch ALOT of RU-vid. That may not seem like a big deal but the way you create your "vidjeyos" has the perfect mix of science and funny. Keep up the good content and the good laughs. Thanks man.

Pretty cool learning about this stuff right now in my Material Science and Engineering class

It's best when knownledge is shared with style - I love it!

I knew you were gonna cut it in half.

I really enjoyed that explanation of how steel changes in different environments. its strange how the micro world operates. you can't see the change, but it's there.

Carbon makes steel hard? That's funny, tungsten carbide makes me hard!

I love the nerdy stuff, you should try to do home brew carburizing, it's been done before, but perhaps not with your flare.

Excellent Metallurgy 101 lecture Professor AvE

I always learn something when I watch your videos. Keep it up.

Perhaps the little magnet was to catch any tiny filings that are created from any friction fittings? Would be super annoying to have a rattle inside...so a little magnet would catch it?

My guess at that little nubbin of metal is it's some sort of 'getter', like what are placed in vacuum tubes to adsorb gas between the walls.

Where are the results

The copper cladding is a radiant barrier. Copper and Silver have similar emissivity values so I guess they went with the modern solution.

Great Job AvE.. Its just amazing the knowledge some folks have in the comment section. experience is the great equalizer.. I don't see any of them on RU-vid.. Just saying..

Nubbin thing is a preferential anode doohikey of some sort to prevent corrosion internally I bet.

"I learned from a coozy today mom." "Go wash your mouth out with soap" she replied.

Thank you for that informative dissertation Professor!

That ferrite disc in the inside bottom couldn't be for security tracking because they sealed enclosure would be like a faraday cage, wouldn't it ?

Little magnet inside might be used in conjunction with a Hall effect sensor for counting how many of them go down an assembly line

Maybe the small metal disk in the bottom was used to seal the hole where the vacuum was drawn.

Ah! That little internal bead, could it be some sort of oxygen depleting material to remove any poofteenths of O2 left inside there to prevent the copper / steel from reacting? Know I'm late to the party, but they'd do a similar thing in vacuum tubes using magnesium wire to burn up any remaining oxygen because even down at near perfect vacuums you still have enough floating around to ruin things. If it were security or tracking it would be under the friction fit base cover I'd think. Not inside the vacuum sealed area.

They also on large cups lazer engrave a micro patent number inside the T of yetti for knockoffs

Holy smokes this guy is amazingly smart.

..."guy could fuck up sunshine." Going on my tombstone

Thumbs up for "The guy could fuck up sunshine"

"I saw an an IR reflection of AvEs face in a copper plate!" -The Guy Who Saw Jesus in Toast

higher Molybdenum and Nickel content makes the stainless steel less magnetic. Especially Nickel prevents the forming of ferrites and so it will be more austenitic 304 vs 316

I need to pee

the reference to the "cargo cult" is really interesting. look it up

So it’s an overpriced thermos made by an anti second amendment company. I knew that before I watched the video.