Rigid palm impact driver from Home Depot is a good idea; but terribly implemented. Biggest problems are the speed control (stupid) and the power (none). I appreciate your help to make these VJOs. Patrons get early access here / ave
I don't own one and don't like them but have used one of these. Yours isn't running anywhere near full chooch. You can't go blast people for shilling and then do the opposite, break a tool so it doesn't function properly and say it's garbage when testing.
My grandpa worked on motorcycles in his garage. Anybody and everybody brought their bikes to him. When I was 8 to about 14 he taught me a lot. And he would do same damn thing. You'd hear a part ricochet he'd yell damn followed by "im feeling lucky". He would stand up walk across the shop bend down and say found it. Never knew how he did it.
For those who are asking about why AvE doesn't test before he takes the tool apart: Part of the quality assessment in BOLTR videos is finding out whether or not a tool is made in such a way that it can be taken apart and repaired by the owner. If the tool doesn't survive being taken apart by someone with as much know-how as AvE, then that's good to know. So he takes it apart, looks at the components, explains where and how corners were cut, or where the tool is great, then puts it back together and sees if it still works.
Correct. Both TI and Analog Devices application notes recommend a transistor instead of a diode for accuracy over temperature. However, the standard diode based version is cheaper. The cheapest of all temperature sensing solutions, in fact. The way it works is a fixed current flows through the diode in the forward direction and the voltage across the diode is proportional to temperature. That voltage is read by the micro controller ADC channel to determine the temperature of the diode. This explains it pretty well. www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/how-to-use-a-diode-as-a-thermometer/
I bought one of these for my mom. She has Parkinson's and can't handle a normal drill any more. She loves it. It'll put screws into wood or drywall without any need for predrilling, which is 100% of her around-the-house need for a tool like this. I'd never own one for myself...
That's like marrying a stripper cause you like the way it moves on stage with it's new coat of shiny plastic. And when the honeymoon is over, ( warrenty +1 day) you realise it's full of unrepairable garbage.
I never said not to take it a-part partner. I'm just saying it would be preferable if he showed us how it worked before taking it a-part cause sometimes he lets the magic smoke out or otherwise fails to get it put back together correctly.
maybe it would have been more interesting to have TESTED before opening its guts; have one and find it works within its size and intended use: tight spaces, smaller screws, pilot holes when necessary; and you can control screw tightness/depth with use experience; and yes the lifetime warranty IS highly recommended for this tiny bugger: love your reviews and delighted you tested this specialty tool -- thank you
Who cared about the spelling as long as they made high quality tools right? If they turn to shit like most of the once proud toolmaker names, it will of course be a different matter. =D
When I was a plumber I used rigid because it was cheap and worked. Didnt care if I broke them, dropped it in water, even left one sealed in a ceiling in a skyscraper in NYC. Lmao.
Ridgid and detractors have an out in this review - the item was taken apart and mucked up BEFORE it was tried. (Not that I think it would mean a bit of difference.) Maybe the process should change to Try, Rip Asunder, and Retry (perhaps even improve). It would remove any deniability from makers and brand loyalists. Plus you still get to open things with tools at the start of each review..
I don’t get what’s wrong with this one. Anyone with half a brain knows that this wasn’t a “fair” review and AvE knows that too. It was a tear down. Notice that he made no general performance claims, and pretty much cut it short because he mucked it up. Extrapolating this little fun exercise to be some condemnation of the tool is putting words in someone’s mouth.
You must have been new to this guy, that's how he does it, and we like it that way. There are plenty of other spots to watch someone drive a screw with it fresh out of the box.
I don’t own either brands except for their shop vac. I’m generally annoyed that he doesn’t test his product before the tear-down. After a year since this vid posted and he’s doing the same thing it’s like it hurts his whack ass ego that he can’t put back at 100%
@@criSOME1 I would suggest you find someone else to watch if you don't like it. Did you even bother to watch the follow up to this video or are you too busy whining about his ego? Don't let the door hit you on the way out.
I have had mine for a year and it works like a champ. I sense that a lot of the people bashing it haven't actually used the thing. It actually fits in my nail pouch and I use it over my DeWalt impact driver 90% of the time. I've driven long construction screws into 4x4s with this thing. Where it really shines is on a ladder when driving plywood into rafters and you only have one hand or when you need to remove screws after tearing out drywall. I've dogged it getting lags in and it still works. It's the absolute best thing for assembling grills and cheap furniture quickly. I tend to like these videos, but after a year of abuse in countless professional scenarios I stand by the palm driver.
I’ll tell you from experience, once you swap out your FMJ’s for blanks, you start using your gun much more and quit caring what it’s pointed at when it goes off.
I got to play with one today (I do tool repair at the orange box) and was using it to run deck screws into a 2x4. I laughed when I first saw it, but it's actually a pretty decent little tool.
Have one and use it every day in my woodworking shop. Perfect tool for installing trim screws, hinge screws etc. I've installed larger hardware as well. As @AvE mentioned it's oddly unbalanced but super handy at it's size. Not for heavy duty use but for pocket hole construction etc it's perfect and there's nothing else out there like it.
Menards has "Toolshop" and "Masterforce". Masterforce being the better of the two most of the time, Toolshop is basically Horrible Fraught level. Masterforce is Horrible Fraught with lock washers.
I agree, although I will say some of the masterforce toolboxes I've looked at are of fairly good quality for the price compared to major name brands of similar pricing
@@Stahlmankustomkarpentry To me it looks like Menards has a branding deal with the Apex group. It looks like all of the Masterforce hand tools are re-branded Allen or Gear-wrench.
@@urbancirclegarden974 They were made in the USA by Apex but were recently swapped out all of their handtools for generic looking chinese imports. I bought their USA made by Apex 3/8 , 1/4 socket & ratchet set back when they first came out in 2010 or so and have been using them ever since with no complaint.
PlugUgly72 the master force hand tools are pretty good in my opinion but I have no experience with the power tools but I have heard good things from friends could you clarify which you're talking about?
I love my dewilt gyroscopic control screwdriver. Fits in tool bag, has decent torque and quick/easy with no fwd/rev switches only a gas pedal. Love to see it boltr'd.
I personally am not a fan of rigid stuff but I own one of the little impact drivers. They are powerful little guy. It will drive a screw clean through a 2x4 if you aren't careful. Ps if you hadn't of let the 200lbs gorilla mess her up beforehand it might have worked better.
if you are driving phillips bits with an impact you already lost the cam-out game no matter what, i don't know why anyone makes impact rated phillips bits
I have a Ridgid drill from 15 years ago and it's still going strong, although heavy compared to new stuff. The lifetime warranty on everything including batteries has really held up. I've cashed in on replacements a few times.
I miss the chainsaw, but I'm looking forward to him inventing the open box gcode for the mill... That's gonna be messy... And probably the slowest unboxing ever if you include the time it takes to bumblefuck the confuser.
It is truly amazing the number of devices they have managed to squeeze a Johnson/Mabuchi 540 motor in to. I'd be lost without them in my R/C cars and trucks.
Love how it was unboxed, the addition of a circular saw to the event really brings a little freshness to the video. I'd just buy an impact rated right angle attachment & get the job done instead of buying another power tool. Takes up less space in the toolbox. This actually reminded me of that episode of Home Improvement where Tim Taylor gives an honest review of a new tool made by Binford that is mainly plastic & destroys it live on air with the CEO of Binford Tools standing next to him live on air.
Imagine if you're using that in a tight space and the fastener you're loosening is longer than you thought and your hand gets caught between that and some piece of car frame or something like that. Ouch
you continue to amuse and entertain me. Somewhere in there i've learned something, but i think it was lost to all the goofballery (just made that up) on this channel. :D please don't ever quit. XD
Andy Reed I think an important detail to include is the fact that it went from 95-11 without anyone in the car needing hospitalization. I’d say that means the safety devices functioned as intended, because normally falling 84 floors ends in a splat.
Andy Ruse Yeah, the press summary that reached my side of the Atlantic made it obvious to any enginerd that the famous Otis safety system slowed down the elevator as promised, but the builders had neglected to install exit doors on the floors it would pass by on regular trips. So fire department had to build the door with people already stuck inside the room, hanging from just the emergency brake. I seem to recall Mr. Otis demonstrating his system at a world fair in Chicago back in the day, but I may be wrong about the city.
@@johnfrancisdoe1563 See that's where you are wrong. The Otis safety system would only have engaged if ALL the cables had broken. It was a secondary over speed governor that would have stopped the lift in this case. I believe the elevator pulled through the drum and ran down until the overspeed set. I await further investigation though
I'm a "tool technician" at Home Depot in the tool rental department. From my experience, IF you register a Ridgid combo kit (tool and battery) then the tool is under warranty for life and it's 3 years on batteries. We warranty and fix Ridgid, Ryobi, and Milwaukee tools (TTI) locally at the store. You have to call Ridgid customer service to get batteries replaced. The warranty for the tools is great, at least at my store. As an example, just the other day a guy brought in a Ridgid drill that he bought in the early 2000's. The whole thing was falling apart. I ordered a new motor, gear case, chuck assembly, and clam-shell housing; the switch and battery terminals were the only old parts. Everything was under warranty: free repair. When you check something in with a home depot to get fixed, you always have to pay $18.95 up front for "diagnostics." If your tool or machine is under warranty, then you get your money back when you pick it back up. Of course, if it's not under warranty, we'll charge more for parts and labor. BTW, I had one of those Ridgid hydraulic impacts come in for repair a couple months ago. The guy said his tool slowly started to die (likely due to the cavitation that ave talked about in his video.) The part was 82 bucks! But the guy registered it so it was under warranty.
I've been stripping... I mean removing screws from aircraft panels for over 35 years. This is the stupidest idea I've ever heard of. When I have a stuck screw that has been previously ruined and reinstalled (happens all the time) I put my drill to a low clutch setting and slowly increase the clutch rate. In almost every case, the screws will come out. The next step is a little valve lapping compound between the bit and screw. I have used a Johnson bar and a screw knocker, but those are hell on nutplates. The final resort is a drill and an easyout.
Hey @AvE , from the video it looked like you only used resonance bit when driving the screw into wood, did you try it with a normal bit? Could it be that the performance you are getting is limited by the "torque stick effect"? keep up the good work -SunShine
Moments like 7:37 is what makes me smile. Thanks for the BOLTR, glad your better 3/4 safe keeps and restricts access to your manly bits. Long live a great RU-vid channel! Keep it up partner.
Hey ave mate, can you do a tear down of some on the new hikoki 36v units (formally hitachi) a cordless grinder or drill, i think there still made in japan equality
We've got a Ridged air-powered palm impact gun. My dad's guys used it for a while, and I think it was pretty useful for new construction. Haven't used it myself tho
When I had my vasectomy, the doctor said back to work on Monday from Friday night. Bad idea. 2 weeks later and looking like it the boys were jammed in a car door, I still felt like I'd ridden a horse from Sydney to Melbourne. No ragrets though.
My doctor was excellent. In and out (pardon the expression) in fifteen minutes. Bag of ice for a little bit. Back to work the next day, full activities like sports a week later. I've had worse dental procedures. It was so easy, I'd do it again if I had to.
@AvE I am pretty sure the issue with the tool wasn't that you broke it but that it requires a long enough shank on the bit. If the bit isn't long enough on the shank, it won't push in enough to activate the drill. The farther it can push in, the more power the driver will activate with. The standard milwaukee bits normally won't even activate the driver and most other bits will only partially activate it when you push down. There is a video called "Ridgid R8224K Palm Impact Screw Driver Kit" by "Sellgooddeals Tools & More Tools" where the reviewer takes note of this little issue.
The battery was clearly close to dead. Thats the entire problem. Watch the beginning of the video where he throws it on the charger and then considers it fully charged. Blinking green means charging. Solid green indicates charged.
I love the whole opening scenes ending with “time”... I do the same shit at home every time I open a new tool and my wife just shakes her head and walks away, lol!
Yeah. The CNC vids threw the whole format off kilter. It's like binge watching your favorite show and realizing half way through the writers all quit. Just seems forced from that point on. But, that said, Ave will always be a bad ass in my book.
I bought that set of Makita 18volt tools with the drill, impact driver, recip saw and flashlight 10 years ago. I've been using the impact driver for 10 years now on every job I do (with the original batteries) and it still breaks the heads off lag bolts if I'm not careful. Spend the money and buy Makita for sure.
That is extremely dependent on hours used, a buddy does roofing and one set of Makita batteries will just about last him until winter and mine that get used for hobby stuff only are coughing up their last juice after 5 years. Which is roughly what you get with other mid price range brands.
@@MsSomeonenew I've built dozens of large decks and driven many thousands of deck screws. I also use the mini impact driver for all of my motorcycle and car maintenance...Never an issue. I know they'll die someday but I take care of my stuff (as best as possible) and it works great.
Chris Wesney next time get DeWALT because my dads DeWALT tools have lasted longer in his shop than his bosses Makita tools that he already replaced twice
I have to say it is pretty amazing to look at pre-PCB, pre IC circuity, with wire wrapped discreet components, to these multi-layer, double sided computer generated placement PCB patterns. A solder pad with a bunch of vias for heat dissipation never would have occurred to the engineer 35 years ago. Throw in 'value engineering', IC's, PCB's, CAD programs, simulation programs, SMT technology, pick-and-place, solder reflow... Makes a (wo)man feel old. Makes me feel old, anyway.
10 years ago a crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn't commit. These men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as soldiers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire the A-Team.
I’ve had one for about a year now and it works well for 1.5 inch screws. I install Cctv cameras on the side and having this little drill is much lighter than having a large drill to carry up on a ladder. No issues with it
They warranty the tool and the batteries, but batteries have to come with something else, like a charger. Don't buy them loose as you mention. The best part of the brand is that they have kept the 18v battery-tool attachment the same for over a decade. I have 18v Rigid tools that came with Ni-cads, and the new Li-ion batteries still work. The new chargers will still charge the old tech batteries. When a battery goes tits up, you have to take it to the store and they ship a new one back. Takes about 2 weeks. Then you have to register the new one...
I recently got an extra drill just because it came with 4 batteries. Not sure what to do with the drill since this is the 3rd one, but in my mind it was free because I needed batteries with a warranty.
@@cdnaudioguy yeah, a lot of companies probably had that in mind...but that strategy was more effective back in the old days when you had to register by snail mail and/or you had to save your receipt. The internet has made this type of warranty registration actually not that bad... In terms in Ridgid's case I assume that the profit margin is decent, failure rate acceptable, and it's worth keep people on you battery system.
I've had various cordless drills over the years, but then I got a Hitachi impact driver. Fooling around with it the first day, trying to test its limits, I stood a 2x4 on edge and effortlessly drove a 4" deck screw through it... as in, all the way through it, untill the screw head was flush with the workbench under the 2x4. I was duly impressed.
