BOMBS WE LOVE - Teahupo'o Tahiti, July 2024 

I grew up surfing serious powerfull reefbreaks over shallow coral reef in Reunion Island as when you grow up here, if you're surfing, there is not so many options I can tell you that yes I wonder how people thought Teahupoo was ridable. I know people who have charged Teahupoo. They say the videos don't even give justice to how it is really crazy ! In the 90s, people known to be power surfers and heavy waves specialistes like Tom Carroll, and Mike Stewart (pipeline specialist, legendary bodyboarder) saw the wave work in solid conditions but less serious than what people charge nowadays. They thought the wave was too close to the reef, unridable. That is to tell you how serious it is. I asked some of the people in my island who surfed it why we often see people smile in the tube in such dangerous waves. They said "man you're so happy to have just been able to do the drop and not fail the takeoff that you've done the most risky and dangerous part, you smile." It's not that they don't have fear. Not having fear there is being psychotic, crazy. Fear protects you. The most specialized there all experience fear at Teahupoo. It's the respect that the wave and the place demand. Not fearing it would be the same as not fearing a tiger. You've gotta fear it. In a controlled way, but you've got to. People have died and been injured to the point they became disabled for life here. It's not just fun. It's performance and proving yourself to be able to handle and survive it.

@@bonbondesel Thanks for your reply. I'm a free climber so I understand to an extent how this works, how you can pull off the seemingly impossible. Big waves scare me to be honest because once they take hold of you your life in entirely in the lap of the Gods. I watch surfers in Bali at Ulu Watu as they paddle out with ease. They have a skill I just don't have. I think starting young really helps. Stay safe!

But i dont know. 🥴

Damn right.

Reef

Yes. Would love to hear the crack of each wave breaking rather than the music.

Amazing video by the way

Yo, c'est Mickey wright

@@mathieubuis9098 merci infiniment Il est sacrément bon

I have to disagree. I think it gives a great perspective of the entire playing field. It’s a whole different beast when Teahupoo is on, and this reflects that.

With all respect and genuine question, who decides which boats get front row, is in first local boat in place, or is their another form of surfer agreement?

@@johnbeattie3610pretty sure it’s first come first serve

part if the storytelling man, come on, its beautiful with the blurred forground. it adds depth to the footage

@@Kahawai68100%

Why Bro it was crazy