I hate that you feel you have to justify how long it takes you do things bc so many people have worked in production shops that speed is everything. What you do is a completely different thing and you only need to justify how your time to YOU! Speaking of which: thank you so much for using that time to share with us all, I really appreciate it!!!
Wood guy here running CNC in the shop daily. It gives me some comfort to see you forgetting to change a number/value. I ran a super long run full sheet this morning and got half way through and realized I'd goofed it. Your constant reminders to check these things because of valuable parts has made me much more conservative in my word but resulted in way less dumpster parts.
You are one of my machining fathers. I started very late in life. About 1 year ago and Im 36 now and I learn so much from You high level RU-vid machinists.
Peter you just gave me a great idea, when boring soft jaw on 3 jaws chuck, you can bore the ring as the jaw, than you can inspect diameter with a dial bore, no need for three point mic!
Dang man, ive been watching you for years, and i still dont know why I even try. Im a machinist and have been for over a decade now, but damn i feel useless. Good video as always, keep up the great work
@@christophercolumbus8944 Peter is on another level of manufacturing, it just makes my... stuff/things/projects seem trivial at best. He's just so damn good, hahaha I like to think most of us machinists are on roughly the same level (for those that went through the manual-CNC change over), but watching his content, damn, its hard to compare.
@@christophercolumbus8944 I feel ya, but its hard not to compare, ya know?.. haha, Its only money, shop space, and probably 12 inches of floor pad away lol
Trust me guys like Peter are extremely rare, or maybe he's unique even. The best machinist at the place I work at have nothing on him, and he is pretty respectable. Imo you should never compare yourself to the best at anything, unless you are around the same level yourself. Peter is obviously born with high intelligence and also his autistic way of navigating the world probably gives him a lot of advantages over others. One should strive to be the best version of oneself only.. anything else is misery. Maybe there's some Japanese kid out there who'd make Peter seem like an idiot.. hardly makes him one though..
I really want to move into this type of machining. It's so much more engaging and involved than what I do with Wire EDM machining Tungsten Carbide. Every now and then we get something different that actually requires some thought of how to hold it, the direction and order of the tool paths etc. The vast majority of the time it's just rinse/repeat churning out hundreds of the same thing. Oh look, it's another hole that needs to be made bigger 300 times🙄
Just to add some context to non-machinists. I can't skip not boring soft jaws on 2nd lathe operation because if i don't do that then the Runout between both surfaces will be anywhere from 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm or more (3 jaw chuck). If i bore the jaws i can get the runout down to 0.015-0.07 mm easily and that's good enough for most parts which require about 0.1 mm of runout. So it's not skill or patience or "doing the job right" but an absolutely necessary step that you can't skip.
I always debur my jaws very good and large right after roughing so when i finish turn the jaws are absolut smooth and i dont have problems with runout on a 3 jaw from taking it out and putting it back in after deburriung (if i hade dirt in the tooth or somthing)
Could you use a much larger disk where you milled the center hole and then four slots for the pins? That would reduce the amount of deformation essentially to zero.
Re The flickering fluorescent light. Looks like the Electronic fluorescent lamp starter is broken. The L.E.D replacement tubes don't need starters/ballasts.
@@DavidtheSwarfer If the starter is broken, it is simple to fix. How to fix a flickering fluorescent light. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FSAiyXmI4Kc.html
Hey Peter, sorry to hear about the problems with your arm. While I was watching, I thought maybe it would be possible to tighten the jaws with a torque wrench as a final op. Probably totally overkill in this application (and also increasing the setup time), but the advantage might be that the ring would be deformed more symmetrically (it seemed to move quite a bit when you released the jaw pressure), and also when you put the final part in then the jaw deformation would be the same. As I say, for the time taken, probably not worth the effort, but got me thinking !
I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble with your arm. Have you talked to a doctor about what you could do about it while still being able to do your job?
If you hurt your neck make sure you take care of it I was rear ended in 1997 hurt my neck immediately then thru out my career my neck was hurting now i just found out i have severe c5 c6 degenerative disc issues with pain in my shoulder and arms now Also now there is a workers comp injury called “cumulative trauma “ that cause pain to a non work related injury that the job causes pain read about it you will be surprised what that law says about it
No I didn’t hurt my neck. I injured my right arm. I was shifting gears right when the other car hit me on the passenger side. It spun me around in a circle. I must have held on to the shift stick so hard. I ruptured my bicep muscle in my right arm and tore some ligaments in mr shoulder.
Doing a job right takes time. Every single time I try and skip a step in checking my tools or confirming programs it bites me and I either scrap something outright or wind up having to mess around trying to salvage a part that was nearly scrapped. It's not worth it, go slow
Complex labyrinth of numbers, so meticulous to the intricate complications that arise. One miscalculation is immediate peril and expensive replacement. To handle that level of stress all day has to get exhausting.
Right click menu bar, uncheck hide menu bar. Or maybe it's another layer, menu bar settings? Been some time since win 2k. What it looks like to me anyway. Just my 2p thanks as always hope that windows tip helps
Can’t unhide the menu bar on the Mazak control. If you do, you can’t operate the controls soft keys. It covers them. The mouse pad on the controls panel is very hard to use. It’s sort of like a laptops mouse pad that is malfunctioning. It does work but you have to use a lot of pressure and move just right. Very difficult with one hand.
@@christophercolumbus8944 I don't really run mazatrol programs. Just EIA (G code) programs. But if I was to do it in Mazatrol I would program all the grooves in separate blocks. Than you could run reform passes on each individually.
In the case of this chuck, it is a 4-Jaw chuck. So it has no scroll of course. But on the 3- jaw I’m generally changing the chucking diameter so it is changing position on the scroll unless just by accident it lands in the same spot.
On a solid part I put almost as tight as I can with my 3/4” ratchet wrench fully extended to about 30” long. On very large parts I even put a cheater pipe on that. So what ever that torque is I don’t know.
Hi Peter Why not , instead of just using a piece of pipe unfinished, go ahead and turn a piece that is turned to tolerance to keep and use again in your setups ? It seems like you would be a little closer to begin with. I understand that you don't have to cut soft jaws very often but seems like it would be about the same time to have a finished ring ready for next time. Maybe I missed something because I am replying while watching so sorry in advance if so
That certainly could be done. Right before making this video. I found this. Piece of pipe in the drops by the saws here. I just used it as is. I could and should of just indicated over the tops of the pins in the chuck jaws. Then it doesn’t matter how rough the ring is.
If you watch around the 3:00 mark, the spindle locking mechanism doesn't appear to be actuating smoothly. Might be something to keep an eye on. I'm conflicted: really want to see a teardown of that head, but I also wouldn't wish a spindle rebuild on anyone.
i have watched it 5 times and i dont see anything wrong. I only see the reflection on the inner side chamfer of the spindle, is that what you are referring to?
I also don’t know what he is referring to. I am orienting the spindle manually. Than locking it. He can’t even tell when it locks/clamps. He only knows because I said it. You can’t see it happen. The Capto spindle isn’t a round taper. So when it orients it may look different than you are useto.
At 3:05, there's movement in the reflection of the Capto holder just before you insert the tool. I suppose I should have said Capto lock as there is also the spindle rotation lock.
@@ipadize Not sure, I haven't used a Capto setup before, the sticking I'm used to is the bar unseating the taper (CAT 30/40 tooling). It all happens in a few frames of the video so it's hard to tell, for all I know that's just how the Capto mechanism works. On a side thought, is the Capto release pneumatic or hydraulic on the Integrex?
I don't believe there would be a way for the machine to know where your jaws are set. or the center of mass for each individual jaw. If it did do this, it could also cause a crush problem on the part you might be working with. There are so many variables to what you could be doing, I'm not certain this would be beneficial to the point that someone has developed it.
Why in the first place do you machine your jaws in a 4 jaws chuck? In anyway they don't keep any repeatability if you want to change parts. I saw you individually adjust the jaws before cutting the part so why you put the effort and machine the jaws?
In these cases I bore the soft jaws to hold the part more securely without marring the finish. If I were to grab the part in the hard jaws even with packing to help prevent damage. It is more difficult to indicate in the part. With bored jaws you only have to indicate the runout at the chuck. But the other way you have to make sure your runout is good at the chuck than out at the end back and forth. Because I don't have a turned area to indicate out at the end boring the jaws assures everything is running true along the entire length of the part. If you watched the video on the first operation. In that video I just used the hard jaws.
They want me to machine the parts I started to the new revision on the second end. I don’t have to change anything I have already done. So that’s good!
Peter; Iove you to death and have nothing but respect for your knowledge. But as a Mazak Integrex machinist myself I have to question the setup with a manual chuck. In our daily operations we do a lot of single parts and we use hydraulic chuck with hardened jaws with aggresive tooths for first operation (with added bonus of being able to take the part down and back up with near zero runout
@Yeah Right Mazatrol is not just for the 80's and 90's. It is one of the most powerful turning CAM systems that are out there. I have programmed from Mastercam, Hypermill, G-Code and Mazatrol. Maztrol programs are typically faster and easier. It does havesome special rules, (as all CAM software does.) However, the amount of control a machinist has at the control means better optimized programs, as well as faster programming times. Typically lead to a faster product. I wouldn't use it for a mill or even a turn/mill. But it is seriously powerful on a 2x lathe.
If you watch Peter's other videos, you will see he does a mix of oddball parts and not all of them are round. The 4-jaw works for his situation even though it takes time to indicate every part. The 4-jaw also gives him maximum spindle bore use vs a hydraulic chuck with a draw tube reducing the bore capacity.
I'm sorry, Peter. I know you like esprit, but that tool offset feature is despicable. A tool offset number should be in the tool settings, not the toolpath. Its too rare to have different offset numbers than to have to remember this feature every time.
the dropdown above that input field defaults to "No" meaning that the tool offset would be taken from the tool table... when set to "yes", it allows you to override it for a specific operation.
On the Mazak Integrex you can have many offsets on the same tool. They go by letters A thru Z. So in this case the tool I was using was T9-H. But in G code on the machine you use the T9.08 or the eighth letter in the alphabet if you will. So to get the code to output correctly in Esprit for this machine. You have to override the normal setting. This is the way the post will output the proper suffix for the tool in the machines tool setup. On other machines this isn’t necessary because they deal with the tool offsets differently than the Mazatrol control.
Hey Peter, I used to say thx for showing your job and as usual I appreciate it, but this time I just want to come up with something else. Please take care of yourself. Go have massages once a week do sports, at best go for a swim. A good friend of mine died just one month ago and he was your age I guess. It hit my hard because he was kind of my mentor. So please be aware off your self. All the best Florian