They use one big spot weld instead of the two small dots which are easy to drill out and reuse the tabs in pristine condition. But maybe it can be done with a bigger drill not sure, never done this with the ProCore yet.
Hi great video! But what could kill all 10 cells from pack? It's very strange, did you try to make a jump in each individual dead cell with another new one to try to revive?
Hi, great video, the procore 5.5ah and 8ah batteries, when it measures 2.04v, but does not display and does not charge, and by changing, the charge control board. I try to remove the silicone on the left and see if the smd fuse is blown, hope i was useful
It also depends on the cells who keep discharged for a long time, then it's more difficult to charge them again. You have to charge the cells very slowly with a few amps. When you installed a new circuit board, and it doesn't load. It is very likely that one or more cells are too discharged or even completely defective. You just have to measure each cell and load it.
@@jugoslavs4 hours of boleros nice and pleasant to listen to - instruments music saxo and guitar ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R5St5S8qeE4.html
I wouldn't call it horror music, but it does remind me of a ride in a theme park. Distracting nonetheless. Although I'm happy he muted the music when talking. Nothing more annoying than loud background music when someone is explaining something...
As I have written before, this is used for demonstration purposes. Some people don't have a spot welder. I wanted to show that it also works without spot welder.
I have 5 pieces of Bosch ProCORE18V 4.0 Ah, all the cells are correct, the machines work but they won't charge? The charger has been tested and works properly. I have 2 pieces of working Bosch ProCORE18V 4.0 Ah and Bosch ProCORE18V 8.0 Ah with which I tested the charger. In addition. These 5 defective battery have something in common, which is that they do not show the charge status. All LEDs are dead, most likely a serial electronics fault???
When you pull out the cells, you can see the temperature sensors and there are also the contacts for the charge status of the battery. If something is defective there, then the charging status of the battery is not displayed. or the motherboard is oxidized somewhere.👍👍👍
@@jugoslavs Liitokala is well known for rebadging unknown Chinese batteries so I'm surprised that you bought these low quality batteries compared to the original Samsung ones. Another thing that I'm missing is when you put the batteries in the charger, it displayed zero voltage and then you soldered the batteries back, some steps missing here!
Hallo. Kannst du ein Bosch Pro Core 8Ah Akku reparieren welcher sich nicht mehr laden lässt und die Ladezustandsanzeige nicht funktioniert? Gruss aus der Schweiz
Ich kann es reparieren, nur wen ich die Ersatzteile besorgen könnte... Das grösste Problem sind die speziellen Zellen wo drin verbaut sind, man kann sie sehr schwer besorgen. Meistens sagen wir zu 90% sind bei diesen Akkus die Zellen defekt, Die Hauptplatine geht sehr selten kaput.. LG👍👍👍
@@jcvjcvjcvjcv I think he doesn't know what he is talking about or he just ordered the wrong batteries. But if they are thinner, you can use a plastic heat resistant film or a heat resistant tape around the batteries.
@@billadmond9450 Or something was lost in translation. Either way the Samsung INR21700-40T is a perfect fit for the 4 Ah ProCore as that is what is used from the factory too. Using thinner cells degrades the ability of the housing to transfer heat. The whole idea about the tight full-contact housing of the ProCore batteries is to transfer heat away from the cells to the outside. The non-ProCore batteries have way more air between cells and less contact with the housing (=heat is trapped). Using a full mm of tape around 20700 cells is just trapping the heat inside the cells. The ProCore also uses unwrapped cells. The regular batteries contained wrapped cells. So they even eliminated the smallest heat transfer resistance.
My friend, this is only one possibility. And it is possible to solder the batteries in this way, you just have to solder quickly, of course you must not expose the batteries to high heat for too long.
@@jugoslavs Agreed. With a powerful soldering iron the heat needed to solder the tab is nothing compared to a short-circuit scenario which the cell can sustain for some period of time. The mass of the battery/cells soaks/distributes the remaining heat up. Soldering is fine if you not overheat the cell to very-hot levels. Not to mention the fact that the cell(s) is inside the coolpack which soaks the heat even better/further.
I have a 5.5Ah procore battery but it doesn't work. The voltage at the terminals 17.6V. On cells of 3.5V. The LEDs show nothing and the charger is not charging. What could be the reason?
It's actually very simple. A cell is very likely more discharged or even completely broken. You have two options, either with a charging device to charge the defective cell separately. First, you have to measure the cells with a multimeter. You have Now 0.4v too little juice in the battery. As I said, you have to bring the batteries back up to a minimum of 3.5 v with a separate charger. And then you can assemble the battery and charge it again with Bosch charger. I use this charger www.microspot.ch/de/spielwaren-drohnen/drohnen-rc-modellbau/rc-stromversorgung-und-equipment--c816000/skyrc-ladeger%C3%A4te-nickel-kadmium-nicd -blei-lithium-eisen-li-fe-lithium-polymer-hvli-lithium-ion-li-ion-lipo-nickel-metallhydrid-nimh-18-0-v--p0001189304?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdiTBhD5ARIsAIpW8CJXdMw9cp8YcWwjTbrmYQLHUKanfZ5llxKwnEjcTvqyLKXHb7O7N5QaAh2QEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds. In the menu you first have to set LiIo - BAT select and then LiIo - Charge select and Dan between 1 or 2A and 1S 3.7v selections Dan press START. And you can only revive the batteries with such charging devices.
@@jugoslavs OK. I will try to charge each pair of cells separately. I have a motech LPS-305 power supply. Set the current limit. And not think that there may be a problem with communication / electronics?
@@_PATRYCJUSZ You really need to measure each cell individually and not in pairs. Otherwise, you will get wrong values. Or, you can connect the charger for li-ion batteries directly to the + and - pole and charge them to 18.9 volts. And then try it with the Bosch charger. If you charge them in this way, it can save the defective cell, but it can also completely destroy the defective cell. It is best to measure all cells individually and charge them individually to 3.7v, and then assemble them and charge them with a Bosch charger. And because of the indicator of charging, battery status. As soon as the electronics notice that a cell is defective, it no longer works for safety reasons.
@@jugoslavs SOC 19,6 V. Resistance between: MINUS-T -> 8,45kR, MINUS-middle PIN 0,97MR, MINUS-C->65kR. Can you write me how is in your battery? In my opinion value 0.97MR is too high.
