Bosch VE injector pump leak out of the breather. Can it be fixed? 

I had this exact problem. As a temporary fix , 5 years 😅, I removed the rubber breather and the special bolt it fitted to. Replaced that with a banjo bolt and piped it via a T piece into the fuel return pipe. As I said that lasted 5 years until now, but the O ring under the pump head is now leaking so an overhaul is needed.

My pump was leaking just as described and sure enough when I took it apart everything Mike said was spot on. I decided to take it to a professional who had it done in a day. He explained to me how he done it (punched the shaft out via the ball bearing and reseated it). Personally this is best left to a pro and focus on something I can fix. Thanks for the video Mike.

I never did like working on a DPA pump, always sent them to the shop. The old in-line pumps could be pulled in pieces very easy so I always worked on them with great success. A good common-sense video mike. Stay safe mate. Yorkshire Rob.,

G'day Mike it's been 50 something years since I was trained on diesel injection pumps at Tech College. If you were closer I'd send you a stuffed pump to play on, I have some spares ranging from re-sealed and ready to go complete unit to spare bits only. I've always found the Bosch VE full mechanical pumps I've tackled pretty easy to work on, not come across the problem of that diaphragm chamber flooding, but I have heard of it before. I have been re-sealing pumps for a few mates, fellow Landy owners, over the years to keep their vehicles alive, for $20 au, you can buy a kit to replace every seal in the VE. The pumping elements seem to go on forever if you keep the filters serviced. Some good advice, don't "muck", (or a word that sounds similar), with the factory pump settings.

Thank you Mike. That explains everything perfectly. I will have a look around for a pump workshop nearby. Thanks again Phil

On top of the fuel linkage shaft and linkage, there are a few cuts. You need to keep track of which sets were lined up. Just take the fuel linkages off and take off that bolt. I know it's a lot of hassle to go through. And you might end up screwing up your pump if you don't know what you're doing. Plus it'll be a lot easier if you have the pump off the engine because putting the fuel linkage on is not a very easy task. It's frustrating really because you have to pull the shaft up as you push the fuel linkages down. If you don't pull up on the shaft, it'll just slide into the pump. You have to do all that whild holding the springs in place and also keeling in mind to line up the lines on top of the linkage and shaft i was talking about earlier. Bosch could've easily solved this by putting a circlip around the shaft. But i think they didn't do that because they didn't want you taking apart your pump yourself. At the end, one simple advice. If you're taking apart the fuel linkage yourself, remember to take lots and lots of photos of everything along the way. Too many photos will never hurt, you can always delete them later when you're done. If you are not able to do it yourself and take it to a shop, the photos can help them do it (useful for uncommon pumps when you don't know what notch it was set on from factory)

Thanks for the help...just tore one of these down today and i surely went the extra steps and punched it out myself. Not an option to even buy the boost control anymore, so yes no parts available to fix...however in my various kits of o rings i did find the perfect one....also on another not the pin itself on mine had some etching so when i put it back in i flipped the pin so the wear is now inside and not on near the o ring....i did however get the throttle linkage wrong when putting back together so it had a high rev...no biggie just move a few grooves all back to normal. This was surely a pain to get out....just dont punch one ball all the way through go as far as u need to get one out and flip over and do the other....also dont have to completely remove the pin to get the arm out of the way. Ive never even worked on one of these before, with the help of this video i had it off and back on in a few hours....btw i only took the top off instead of removing the whole thing from the machine....had to make several tools though shorten an allen to get the back screw out...and also u need a 4.5 mil allen to remove the cap holding the pin in...i ground the same 5mm i had cut short and ground other end down to fit the odd size allen set. Thanks agian for all the help....literally saved me thousands.

I've got a knackered pump top with a broken lever sat on the shelf but it's a bit of a trek to pop it over from the UK. I'll try the punch trick just for the hell of it and see how it works, it's got two chances!

See if the plug or ball is soft and drill or maybe tap to fix extractor, great vid mike

Hi Mike , my 70 series in Cameroon had this problem it was a substantial leak, never new the cause until now. I got round it by fitting a return line to the tank from the breather , I also had to fit an electric supply pump to supply enough fuel. The car ran fine like this for over 5 years until I managed to bring a second hand pump from the UK. another bush fix by necessity as there was no specialist workshops

All that and a hair cut too :)!! Thanks so much for the 2nd row door dims in your video the other day for the 110 SW, just been fitting my new B/C pillars. Turns out they had jigged them up wrong and the gap is 30 3/4 rather than 30 1/4. So cut and weld time :( If I hadn't had your info I would have been stuffed!

Have that problem thanks a Lot for that vídeo Mike

Talking about pumps.l remember adjusting the mixture screw and leaving that wire locking the mixture screw dangling. I wondered why l kept on blowing the fuse on the pump stop solenoid,it was dangling hitting the top of the solenoid shorting the fuse,it took a week to find that short.

Again I know simethimg new. Cheers Mike 🥃

So meny year i try to find the answers....to brothers for your information

Hi Mike i have removed that shaft by punching it through there is a bush around the pin you can get it out with a t30 as it is a inbetween size hexagon under it there is a cup and a square cross section o ringthat i could not match i cut the cup down and added a washer to crush the o ring

Is that another fresh hair cut mike ? Is it sir ? 2 in 6 months sir ? Ohhh, suits you sir

Hey great videos mate. Wondered if you could offer some advise mazda bongo with borsch pump not drawing fuel. Cut of solanoid clicks as it should. Haven’t checked banjo filter yet although was running and driving and now nothing. My next thoughts was orings. ? Amy help much appreciated

Hi Mike, do you have any videos on how to set the VE injector pump settings? Mine is blowing some black smoke and would like to know how to tune and set it up optimally to give power and reduced smoke. Thanks so much!

Nice cut there MIke

Cool haircut

All sorts of trouble can be traced to a leak in your little rubber thing.

Regarding the shaft that needs drifting out, what's it look like? Would it be possible to replace it with, say, silver-steel rod with an internal thread cut into either end so it could then be secured using a couple of small allen bolts? Add a couple of washers and you could also fit an o-ring in each end to seal it. Might be a nice little earner, supplying a serviceable replacement shaft.

It's when he appears with freshly plucked eyebrows that we need to think about an intervention.

Can you make extended breather for the diesel pump to stop leaking on engine mounting and chassis?

Have you thought about getting custom O-Rings made. It is generally fairly cost effective. I previously worked as a toolmaker, based in Cambridge England and cannot recommend Hooper Ltd in Huntingdon , Cambs, UK highly enough. I’m sure you could find a similar outfit in Canada.

Hope you see this! Is it possible to use parts from different pumps together? I want to put the top part of one pump (with the connector) onto a pump that's still mounted on the engine.

Mike, I have a generic question about a VE pump. I have a Cummins that will not start and noticed there is a tear in the diaphragm. Would you agree that this would cause it not to start? I am excited because I think I finally diagnosed it but second guessing my self while waiting on the part.

Could you tell me where that complete top part as you spoke of it from please?

hi, i like your videos. do you know what value it is on time setting diesel pump Ducato 2.8 1999 year.

I see that Debra got ahold of you.

What is the reason for the exit of diesel from the drainage outlet with a black plastic piece

Hi how i can get 6000 k rpm from fiat ducato 2.8 td pump..now i have 5300

👍👍

Mike. Do you have all equipment to work or test common fuel rail diesel injectors ! Wasn't sure if Ludi or yourself tend to play around with modern systems ? V.

Makes you thank the pump us leaking

If I had one try I would remove and replace the o-ring from outside. But would be probably more fun than success...

Pump shops would provide warranty on their repairs, so I doubt they would try to fix the leak other than by replacement.

Happy bi-annual haircut lad.....🤣👍

Hlo sir I have a situation with my diaphragm for my injector any Ideas on how to fix it pliz reply

holy crap - bet Mr Ludi installed it upside down - LOL

I bought a used top chamber ...thats much better

You had your ears lowered Mike?

Nice haircut lol