I like that this video wasn’t clipped apart or sped up too much, POV is cool too because is sets a reasonable expectation for how long it will take. I was billed $60 to replace a BB and crankset by a shop once because it would take an hour, did it myself in 15-20 minutes for the first time doing it.
I will probably never do this myself, but I looked every minute. Why? .... :) Very entertaining, thanks for all the videos you guys make! Friday therapy, cheers and thanks from Sweden!
"this is something you guys should do every few months" Oof. Had my bike for 2 years now, and it sounds like its going to fall apart anytime I put more force on the cranks. Time to take it apart, thanks for the vid
Huge thanks for this video! I knew I’d need it eventually so I saved it to watch again later. This was a huge help. I tried the Teflon tape hack so hopefully that helps extend the life of my BB. You guys rock!
Just got my Rockshox seals from you guys delivered to me out here in the UK! Great service, now I’m going to get out there and shred after a few weeks off the bike... ☀️😎🤘
Tighten up towards the rear wheel, loosen up towards the front wheel. That's 100000000000x easier than trying to guess which is the cross threaded side.
FYI, in case you do not know or maybe someone else doesn't know. "cross threaded" means to screw something in incorrectly over the original threading, rendering the threads damaged. You meant "reverse threaded" which means backwards threaded. Normal threading is lefty loosey righty tighty, but reverse threading is lefty tighty righty loosey. It is common to use reverse threading when a part is in a normal spinning orientation that would cause it to loosen during use.
You have got to be the most chill bike mechanic ever, kudos man and ty for walking through that! Don't feel so bad torqueing to my oogha doogha spec... ;-)
Every time you said the word “this guy,” I took a sip of my Moscow mule. I ran out of ginger beer....straight vodka and lime toward the end of the video was really getting awkward. Lolol! Kudos for the video! Keep em coming! 👍🏽
really enjoyed this video, very laid back and informative. would LOVE to see a video on a complete rebuild of the damper side on a pike fork (charger 1 or 2). I'v done mine a few times but always feel like i'm missing something and have never come across a detailed video of that type. thanks
Wonderful video. Wish you guys would crank out more podcasts 😭 I have an hour long commute... I didnt realize my bb needed to be that tight. Probably why it's creaking haha
I have used the Yellow (Gas) Teflon before and found that it holds shape a bit better when screwed in. Doesn't mean its any better, just holds together a little more.
35:55 If you put A LOT of grease to the edge of the bearing that's against the missing dust cover, it would make it harder for dust and water to creep into the bearing surfaces. It will add some friction, though.
Great video. I was getting worried you forgot about a key ingredient, your drink. Mine is coming out tonight. I expect you will see an order for a new BB too.
It would be great to include some pointers on removing other brands of crank, e. g. Raceface! (The ones that can be impossible to remove. Friend of mine completely destroyed his crankset - it still didn't come off)
Also it is important to note that anywhere that has grease won’t rust. The spindle of cranks are aluminum, but bearings are steel and need grease to prevent them from corrosion.
I got kind of a cracking noise in the front and I think it can't be the headset bearings because the bike is 8 months old but I have this knock block system from trek. Could it be the knock Block thing or any ideas??
Worldwide Cyclery that’s super cute. Do you guys carry that? I’ve been looking for a small pack like that to take on shorter rides when i don’t bring my camelback.
I understand the use of allllll the grease and the reason you loaded up because it becomes a block to keep dust from getting deeper into the BB and bearings, etc... but doesnt it also become a magnet for the dust? So with all the dust flying around and sticking to the grease there where the crank arms are moving, wouldnt that create a grinding feel? Im about to take my crank arms off and bottom bracket etc to clean everything because mine feel/sound like there is dirt around the moving parts. Thinking it would be good to get the grease in the deeper components but less as you get closer to the surface/exterior parts? what are your thoughts on that reasoning?
Dumb question, what is the plastic piece for between the bottom bracket sides? I have my BB's come with those, but bike shops never use/install them. Even brand new bikes never have them installed, that I've come across.
Just a question, what part of the bottom bracket or crank that causes creaks? is it the bearings of the bracket? the threads of the shell? or the spindle of the crank?
Can somebody explain why left-hand threads are used for bottom bracket when the threads are in orientation where threads open to the direction of the pedaling? I would understand if one side would be left-hand threaded if the threads would be pushed tighther with the pedaling if the thread moves even a bit.
I’m building a new hard tail and I have a RR BSA threaded BB and a Race Face Next SL crank. When I insert the crank spindle through the BB, even before I install the drive side, the crank seems too tight and does not spin freely as it should. After it’s fully installed, but before I set and tighten the preload washer, it is so tight that it will not even spin a full rotation by giving it a spin by hand. Is the Race Face BB just a piece of junk? Should I replace it with a Sram DUB BB, or anything but a Race Face?
Can i add a drop or two drops of dry chain lubr inside my hollowtech sealed bottom bracket ball bearings to make them roll a little smoother? Is this good or harmful to the ball bearings?
The threaded collar that he backed off was the bearing preloader. Yea, he probably should have adjusted it at the very end. It is used to remove any side-play of the cranks and to put a slight side-load on the bearings. Helps them last longer.
But my bike is new, only a few rides in and already squeaking. Is this normal? I just tighten the crank a bit and it stops, but then after a weeks or riding, it comes back
I have a pair of sram cranks with two bolts on the outside of the cranks but when i remove the bolts the crank doesn't come off What do i do?! (It's one of the ones without a preload collar)
My square taper bb is starting to do weird stuff... When I take the bike after a day of not using it, the crankset is completely seized and won't spin. After applying tons of force, it start to spin again and after 30/40 revolutions it spins smoothly and freely. Is this something to worry about?
I am not a pro bike mechanic, but it might be the case that the grease inside have dried and hardened to the point where it's solid. You can either run it as long as it works, and then replace it entirely, or try to service it to extend its life. If it's Shimano cup/cone style, you can open it, clean it and re-grease it. If the balls and races are fine it could serve you for many more years to come.
I'll have to buy the tools to remove the crankset, and the bb, and then I can check what bb I have. Are there any additional tools I will need to service the bb?
I wish I saw this video I spent $68 on getting my bottom bracket replaced and fixed it totally seized up and the bike mechanic said it was shredded or whatever. And he said I need to stop doing bunny hops on my road bike to he said it was a contributing factor🤣🤣🤣
Oh, you shouldn't remove 10 mm, that's the self extraction bolt. Screw both in again, so that the 10 mm bolt is tight again. Than start to loosening up the 8 mm, it will get lose and tight again. Go on until the crank comes off.
