Cheers. One of many different approaches to getting models done. I do labour for longer on a lot of minis, and work with layering and edge highlighting, but in this case speed is of the essence and I hope that the method is easy for others to copy.
Really excellent guide to the model builds and painting. Any pro tips on research for uniform colors and composition of equipment for the time period ?
Google napolun, napoleonistyka and cent jours for useful info in the first place. The Osprey books are always a good source too. I have a subscription to Scribd.com that lets me access loads of reference material too.
Is the wash ratio 2 parts wash to 1 mixing medium or the other way around? Very helpful tutorial, you are saving me a good deal of time with my painting, thanks....I wish I was as fast as the speeded video segments though 😂 Cheers Keith
This is a fairly recent development - I have been trying to get a very quick and easy way to paint white. It's a daunting colour and I hope this is useful for beginners especially.
Good stuff man! I came here looking at your videos and when I see you painting, do you have any tips to keep brushes having a straight point? My brushes usually fray or don’t keep a point (they are old so if you know how to clean them very good I’d appreciate any knowledge). Also, I was doing Prussians and since it’s my first time, I usually base coated citadel blue on it but white straps are covered, and the white paint is very dilute for me, any tips on lighter colors? All help would be appreciated
I use Masters Brush Soap to clean my brushes out after use. It's usually dried paint up at the ferrule (metal bit) that causes fraying and the brush soap takes care of that. It is difficult to paint white right over blue or red, so using a grey as an intermediate colour will help reduce the number of layers of white needed.
I used some really cheap synthetic artist's brushes for this video series. 10 brushed for £6 off Amazon I think. They're not great and are fraying/bending already. Useful for the beginner I think! My brush of choice right now is a Rafael 8404 series size 1. I rate it over Winsor and Newton series 7. I have a few Kolinsky size 1, 0, 00 for the fine detail work too.
@@CullodenPaintingStudio i mjuswt must be unlucky. I bought Raphael 8404 and i dont think i used them more than half dozen times before they were fked. So i guess you cant win. But that narrower brush that looked about a number 1, def looked the business. Hope youre well
@@stewybaby4 Yeah mate, good here and hope the same with you. It's a lottery sometimes with brushes. So disappointing that there isn't better quality control.
@@CullodenPaintingStudio ive spent about $100 on a variety of sable brushes. And i havent got the heart to use them. ive got a brush that for the basics is holding up fine; despite the hook on half the body, and woks like a dental instrument. Wouldnt dare use it for for lining in collars and doing highlight etc, but otherwise it works well. So whats your next project?
@@stewybaby4 I have plans to make the 71st for the Peninsula, and add some more 95th Rifles using the Wargames Atlantic kit Also dipping my toes back into sci fi with old school Necromunda. Need to finish off this video series first though!
Nice video, but insteado of drybrushing with white I prefer black sprayed primer (GW) and white sprayed primer over it. Prepares smoother grading for further painting.
@@CullodenPaintingStudio Yes, it helps a lot. I am using it to speed up the process while batchpainting. Even if there’s lot of white color on the battle dress (french or austrian napoleonics), it’s great to start like that. Please keep on going guys, you’re doing great job!
im a big fan of the way you paint, and i try my best to copy,,, thought id share some research, which included travelling to various museums in paris, plus a very special visit to a military base in Brittany The École spéciale militaire de Saint-Cyr,, contains napoleon death mask, sword death hand cast, many regimental flags and other items in there museum, my subject is great coats, the word beige as we know it today, referring to a brown cream colour did not come into effect until 1855, prior to that, in french the word beige meant a mix, combination, ect,,, a mix of 2 colours, referring to the two most common sheep types in france during that period, black and white, black sheep were as common as white in that era, the word beige on requisition orders referred to a mix of white and black wool, this gives the impression of grey, the fibres close up are actually black and white, no grey die used,, its the combination of white and black fibres to give the grey,, all french great coats were this way, utilising both the common sheep colours in france, plus no need to die them,, this made them fairly cheap to mass produce, 1 size fits all, 1 pattern, used by all military manufacturers, in the museum of the first empire, in Paris are some original great coats, gaiters, tunics, well worth a visit, the curator is incredibly knowledgeable,
Fascinating stuff. That is very similar to the coats worn by Scots in the 17th century - un-dyed wool from a mix of white and black sheep made for very grey Covenanters during the "English" Civil War. I would like to do some touring in France and Belgium to visit historical sites. Perhaps I will get to Brittany and Paris one day!
@@CullodenPaintingStudio you must, nothing beats seeing the original uniforms,, also they have 3 original shako oil skin covers,, these were all black,,
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Nmxb_SWGzNo.html a 40 second youtube clip of a french cannon captured at Waterloo,, as im hoping you will do french line artillery at some point,, this clip shows its original colour
I usually apply matt varnish to miniatures before I remove them from the stick. Either brush on or a spray. Ideally I wait a day just to make sure all the previous layers of paint are fully dry.
