Looks like you have some Amsoil Brake Fluid on your shelf do you have a preference on which brand of fluid your use? Also approximately how much fluid do you need to purchase to do the fluid change?
Just a tip to speed the process up a little. After you remove the master cylinder cover use your Mityvac to suck the old fluid out of the maser cylinder leaving just a little bit in the master cylinder to cover the port at the bottom so as not to induced air. Then add the new fluid and flush as you said. This way you don’t have to run all the old fluid through the system to flush it out, also less contamination of the new fluid.
Excellent. Thank you for a thorough video. The best I've seen. I was quoted over $425 from my local dealer to flush the brakes and clutch. No way. I'm a do-it-yourselfer. Really appreciate the flashback mid-video to show the clutch flush. Btw, is that RaceDeck flooring in your garage?
Very good Jerry! That is race deck flooring my friend. Ive sold that house now and travel full-time with the RV, bike and car. Plan on doing that for a few years.
I loved the video , but I’ll Probably end up taking it to Harley Davidson and let them do all that brake flush and stuff I don’t like messing with that ABS you did make it look easy . Stay safe my Friend . Next time 😎👍
Hello, I was just wondering if changing lines would be the same way being as we empty the lines upon removal and place in empty lines. Can I just vacuum until there is no air? Will the abs allow it?
Question, so if you have the abs tool that the dealer has & flush brakes like you did in the video & hook up the tool to purge the abs system do you still have to bleed brakes again? Or do you have to take the bike out and get the brakes to pulse?
Yes, you do have to bleed them again even with the digital tool. The tool activates the pump without having to ride the bike and slam your brakes on to activate it. Once activated, the abs pump expels the old fluid into the system (same as riding it and slamming your brakes on) thereby contaminating it, which you then have to flush out a second time. I highly recommend anyone who is working on their own bike invest in a service manual, and not solely rely on someone posting a video who may or may not actually know the proper procedures. Also, start by sucking out the old fluid from reservoir first and refill it with fresh, then you are only pulling fresh clean fluid through the system. This also makes it much easier to determine when you have fresh fluid coming out of the bleeder since the fresh and the old is not mixed together and easily distinguished by the color difference.
You did not change the fluid in the ABS unit other than what was in the passage normally open during non ABS actuation. The valve body flush is not the same as the actuation that takes place during an ABS event.
Hey Thermo's place, I did activate the ABS system to push the old fluid out at the end of the video, then did another flush of the system as directed by my Harley service manager, you still don't think we got it out?
@@TollesonLife An ABS event and a commanded flush are two very different things. Just causing the abs to cycle by over breaking does not flush the valve body. You also state that the system can only be serviced by the dealer. Any decent indy can do it and many owner can do it at home. This is a proper ABS service cycle on the rear brake. Just a laptop and a DTT. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GY8vte3un5k.html&feature=share
Hey Dylan, No need to activate it before flushing. According to my Harley Service Manager, only afterward to remove old fluid out of the ABS module, then flush again. Hope that makes sense.
@@TollesonLife hey thank you for reaching out it looks like you still had the heat shields on and that you just loosen the back muffler bracket and I guess one of the head bolts anyway at all the videos that I watched you were the most Clear on everything great job I like your videos I will probably watch more
Daytona Twin Scan ABS tools do not marry to the ecm so it can be shared with multiple bikes. Share the cost with others. Need a laptop computer though. And sadly it will not work on a Chromebook. That ITM HD2 is priced right and portable. Limited to that Android tablet and pay more for another bike because it marries to the ecm. Recently I found a new Twin Scan II on eBay for $50. The seller did not know what they had. Last year after the fluid change I just did what this vid mentioned, locking up the abs while riding.
@@Richard5873 Both the Twin Scan and the ITM will work on your 2010 to activate the abs hcu to bleed out any air. The $1,000 is probably the cost of the abs HCU and ECU. Most of the time only the abs hcu fails and locks up. If either your front or rear break lever is locked, can not push it, then its most likely only the hcu. Their are vids of owners tapping, moderately beating, on the hcu to free up the valves. Or, removing the hcu and physically pushing the plunger valves that are accessible from the back of the hcu. Several other valves are internal and not accessible. Hence, people beat on it. Curious, did you get the free brake fluid flush with the HD recall?
@@ridemfast7625 Yes I did few years ago 2 maybe, but currently high % again and my Son and I just changed handle bars to 14 inch ape hangers. So may have air still in system, not really sure
Good job in mentioning the need to activate the abs HCU after fluid change. I live on acreage and in one area the dirt is very firm and level. I get the bike up to ~20mph and hit the brakes. The abs is clikin away. Do this a couple times and I have zero concerns about needing to do more. Also, I called two different HD dealerships and they both said when they perform fluid change and use the Digi Tech, they do not perform a second flush. When my bike had the brake fluid recall in 2018, that HD dealer did not perform a second flush. A 2nd fluid change is easy enough and cant hurt imo.
I see you mention after a flush the ABS clicks when applied. I just flushed mine and the ABS is doing the same thing. I attempted to flush a 2nd time and retry and ABS still clicks. Does it do it for awhile and reset or could it be I introduced air. I don't think I did. ABS makes clicking sound for both front and rear when applied at around 10-15 mph.
@@jbucks166 It makes noise when the abs is working, hard breaking, preventing skidding. It pulses the brake fluid to the calipers so to speak. This can be felt in the brake levers.
@@ridemfast7625 thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought of it but realized I haven't jammed on my brakes in the past to know if the ABS clicking was normal behavior. My brake pressure feels great and normal braking is fine. Only when I jam it quick does it seem to act crazy but I guess it's normal. My gut still tells me otherwise lol . Thanks for your time. Be safe out there
So if I do exactly what you did on Your Awesome video I don't have to take my 2010 Limited FLHTK to a Harley-Davidson dealership to bleed air out of abs system? I already have the % brake tester fluid and pump. My Son and I just recently changed my handle bars to 14 inch ape hangers. So I figured need to change my fluid since % is High. Figured I didn't need to blow over $200.00 from Harley-Davidson. THANKS FOR AWESOME HELPING VIDEO!!!
That's correct Wolverine, according to my Harley Service Manager. Some folks disagree but don't know their source. I went with the Harley folks. All the best!
Very nice and easy to fallow instructions. I like to ask a question if I may, when you said to run the bike afterwards to pump the ABS and bleed the system again. Do you mean both front and back or just rear? Thank you.
Hello Alvaro, I used both brakes when I activated the ABS and then flushed both front and back. Again, that was according to our Harley Service Manager. Hope that helps.
Finally I found a video that explains why I’m having a hard time removing the clutch cover, do have a question tho you mention loosen muffler bolts & header bolts did you just loosen the rear header bolts only to give you clearance? Tia
Guys,, to my knowledge there is no testing that proves that ABS activation by braking effectively purges the ABS module. By relying on this practice you risk an ineffective purge and corrosion and failure of the ABS module. IMO it is a very, very low risk but I do not think it is zero. If you follow this advice you should be informed. Also there are devices available to the DIYer that will properly purge the module.
I have a 2015 HD fatboy softail. I also bought the mityvac wish you use to bleed your brakes. I couldn't find the correct tube to fit the bleeder in the kit. I had a tube that I use to my 2016 camry le. I was able to manually the front, but rear was very difficult to do. I am going to the HD dealer to bleed the brakes.
If I am going to spend the money saving time to do the job myself, I am going to use a new bottle of $6.19 Amsoil fluid. Just for insurance sake. Even though you are probably right, I am sure the dealer will be using an opened bottle.
Yes we do Omar, at the end of the video youll see that I activated the ABS several times in a packing lot which pushes the old fluid out of it and allows the new fluid to enter. Then I did a second flush to remove the old fluid that came out of the ABS.. This is all according to the HD Service Manager.
If you want to test the new fluid you should test what is coming out of the calliper. At 8:14 you tested at the master cylinder. You only tested the new fluid that you just topped up with. Of course it was good, as its straight out of the bottle.
Thanks what I was thinking the fluid doesn't circulate. I was told not to trust a Harley Dealership do to many just remove the fluid in the Master Cylinder.
Can the clutch be more difficult to pull in after fluid change I had dealer change fluid but I feel like pull should be softer .other bikes feel little softer pull.but I'm not sure if there is a problem or solution. I mean it works but
Hi, I have done the clutch fluid on my 2018 ultra limited. I had to loosen both exhaust flanges. How did you loosen without taking off heat shields? Thanks Bob
Hello Bob, I did have to loosen the heat shield at the flange, didn't have to remove it, just turned it out of the way enough to get the socket on the bolt. Appreciate you watching!
In the absence of a helper I was able to set up a Go Pro camera on master cylinder and watch the fluid level on my I-phone as I bled the fluid. Cycled through about four more times. The system worked.
Thank you for the super informative video. I do have a quick question about the ABS part, what is that all about? I accidentally popped a piston out of the caliber while cleaning and changing brake pad, and all the dot fluid from I am guess the ABS to the caliber all pour out. I was able to get the piston back in and caliber reinstalled onto the bike with new brake pads, can I just do the fluid change like you did and the rear brake will work? Or at least work long enough for me to ride to the dealer? Thank you again.
I F***ed up and vaccumed air into the system, just a few seconds of miss concentration, need to tow bike to dealer, would not even ride it there.... expensive mistake but such is life....
I watched your video and went to change brake fluid on my 2016 Street Glide Special. After much effort trying to get the bleeder to suction out the fluid I removed it and found there is no passage from the top nipple where the dust cap goes to the bottom section where it is threaded and the two holes are on the side of the fitting. Thus no way to suction out the old fluid. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the bleeder fitting with something aftermarket? I had no trouble changing the fluid on my Hyd clutch but have not tried the rear brake until I figure out what is happing with the front brake first. Thanks!
What was your result? If you replaced the bleeder fittings did you go with the Speed Bleeders, they have a built in check valve makes it easier to do yourself.
when you are draining the fluid, can you increase the psi with the bleeder valve open on the caliper while it's bleeding or do you need to close the bleeder valve then increase the psi?
On your clutch slave cylinder on The Handlebar I noticed the Round Disc covers the fluid Inlet was not in place not sure if you replaced it before you put the cover back on
Nice JOB, I do not ride myself, but have friends who do Ride and so I copied the link and sent them your link. They are some retired old S.O. biker friends. Buy copying and pasting your link to an email message. COOL ENJOYED your insight and the skills to getting it right. Thanks for sharing. Stay well and be safe.
So how did you exercise the ABS solenoids? What you did doesn’t do that . Good video for old non ABS bikes but with out running the solenoids? Your not doing a ABS flush / bleed. Many ABS units have failed with your method on 09-18 ABS Harley . On your clutch cover when you do get it off? You can lightly trim that chrome cover on the bottom very little.. make clutch bleeds very easy for next time . No touching exhaust ....
Hey Doc. I followed the procedure recommended by the HD Service Manager at my dealership. I did some emergency braking after the first fluid change to activate the solenoids, HD said that would push the old fluid out of the solenoids and fill them with the new fluid. Then I did a 2nd flush. Make sense? Did I miss anything? Thanks for the tip on the chrome cover!
Tolleson Life service manager is and idiot and would likely be fired if anybody at moco knew he even hinted at it.... i have been screwing around trying too build a cheap system to cycle the ABS pump but just havent had time. His way doesnt work. I ended up borrowing a snap on scan tool for customer bikes lately. But its a busy automotive shop I borrow it from. Lots of more crap fluid comes out using the scan tool. Hammering the brakes to get the solenoids to work doesnt get 20% out of system and pump. Just beaware.... and its not like these abs pumps and solenoids dont fail.... because they do and still are failing. 2017 2 weeks ago and out of warranty.... dealer didnt want too know. Guy bought lines and we removed system as he never wanted abs in the first place.
I found that patience is very important. I did my flush solo. No one around to give a hand. Only getting a quarter turn the bleeding is very slow. Really could not tell by watching needle. I bleed a little to much after taking an extra turn on bleed valve. I did get a little air in the line. Got the air to rise out but tapping on the lever lightly till no more bubbles came out.
If you get air in the line it's a very easy fix ....just squeeze the lever and hold it while you loosen the bleeder and the air will be pushed out by liquid.... Duh
While in Deadwood during the Sturgis Rally I lost my clutch. After letting it cool down about 30 minutes clutch started working again on my 2014 Streetglide. Got all brake fluids changed when I got back home. I feel many people don’t realize the importance of changing the brake fluid.
You guys sure here come a long way since I’ve been watching you. Nice bike. We are getting ready to buy a fifth wheel sold our Tiffin class A. You can stop by anytime and see what I could do better on my videos and leave a comment I believe we’re friends right.
I wonder how many bikes out there have never had this fluid replacement done. Bummer on the cover not coming off without loosening the exhaust, but, that's why we have tools. Great detailed video again. Thanks for posting.
@@TollesonLife It makes me wonder, I bought my 2018 Goldwing new from the dealer just 6 months ago. Just over 3k miles on it now, but if it sat on the dealers floor for awhile, the fluids could be reaching that timeline for replacement. I dont want to open the reservoir caps to test, as that would introduce moisture from ambient air. Hmmm, need to research my manufacturer date. Thanks again.
This was the video I've been waiting for! My '15 is overdue. Just tested the fluid and it's at 3% so it's right on the edge. Glad to see you use the manual MityVac. That's the way I want to go because I'm afraid the pneumatic one will work too fast and get air in the lines (doing it alone). When I asked the dealer about this job they quoted 3 hours of labor just for the brakes and said exhaust had to come off for the clutch... on a '15. Around $500 total - I don't think so. Thanks for doing this video and adding to your already great content.
hogdriver88 I thought of you as we were doing it hogdriver88. As mentioned, on my brothers ‘15 Road Glide, we didn’t have to loosen the exhaust, the side cover came right off. All the best my friend.
@@Hogdriver88 I have the pneumatic and the valve allows you to control the pull. Open it part way and it pulls the fluid slower. I've been using it for a couple years and like it so far. Ride safe brother.
As an 18 Road Glide owner I find your videos very helpful. This weekend I changed my oil and transmission/primary fluids. You know what was on my shop computer? Your video -- which was very helpful. Keep it up and ride safe.
Kudos for this video. I have a '17 Road King and I think it's still running the original brake/clutch fluid. Every other video I tried searching for would either show the brake flush or clutch flush but not both. And thanks for that tip on loosening that exhaust.
Thank you for your instructive and comprehensive video. I like the way you do it and also your way of speaking: no shouting or screaming in the camera, but at a normal voicelevel. Thanks again. Greetings from The Netherlands 👍😎
I just rebuilt my 17 CVO Ultra clutch master cylinder because it would not drain any fluid or pump up any pressure to drain the fluid like the manual calls for doing. After replacing the rebuild kit in the clutch master cylinder, it still will not move any fluid. Does anyone have any idea what's going on. I even asked the dealership and they have no idea either. I bought a master cylinder pneumatic vacuum tool to pull fluid through the line to the slave cylinder bleed port, I hope this does the trick. If anyone has any ideas as to what the problem is, please let me know. I've been bleeding brakes and clutches all my life and have never ran into this problem.
Awesome tutorial! Just wondering how you would know that the reservoir is emptied a couple times if he is adding fluid as you’re removing it? How do you keep track I guess, is the question? Does the fluid color change to a more clear look possibly? Thank you.
@@TollesonLife awesome, I know it was a dumb question but this is my first time for this so thank you for responding so quickly. Really appreciate it. Keep up the great tutorials.
Had an issue with clutch going spongy riding from columbus ohio to norfolk Virginia now I know why, brake fluid breaking down in their as well. Thks for the knowledge changing all three today.
