Brake Hydraulic Control Unit ABS Pump Replacement - 2018 Dodge Ram 5500 6.7L 

About time

My truck started doing that. If you take the hydro boost lines and you shake them, there's a liner on the inside of them. You can see it on the older generation of ram. It would get sucked into the tube going to the hydra boost. If you change the HCU and the ABS module I would consider looking into and replacing those lines. I'm getting mine custom built to where it gets rid of the liner

Amen - mines on its second go round with this horseshit. I emailed them and low and behold this AM basically got told to pound sand and cough up money. Worthless garbage. Truck looks cool and has a great engine but the rest is nothing to brag about. 59k miles and have had several minor to major warranty claims. Not caused by neglect nor light usage. Frustrating as hell.

@@ericstyer2890 Do your power steering hoses appear to be leaking? The ones that go from the pump up to the hydra boost on the firewall behind the brake booster? Dodge uses a double hydraulic type hose and the inner liner will separate from the main hose and it can cause pressure issues. I've had several minor issues with this pickup as well. Most of it seems to be related to the lack of use of dielectric grease and just to complete reliance on a static seal. Instead of reording hoses a lot of times you can have a farm store crimp on new hydraulic line. But keep your old lines. You can get home and take it apart and see if it's split somewhere. Best of luck with your truck.

Yeah the power steering lines that go to the box are both different, and the one always seems to rot threw and snap off

Scott I’ve seen bad wiring time and time again, definitely could have a wiring issue in the harness somewhere, the only true way to know is to look at the wiring diagram for pin# references and test it

Hey Jordan, I did not have to perform any programming just a brake bleed procedure using a bi-directional scan tool in order to command the ABS pump on and rid the system of any air

Milk the cow. As long as they are making some buck jts not gonna change. I got mine replaced at 1000 miles. Its 2017 ram 3500. Now its acting again. Out of warranty of course

I was told by the dealer to call Dodge HQ and complain for a recall. I have the same problem too at 25000 miles 2018 model.

Yeah it did the same thing for me too, must be correct, I didn’t have any issue but I did decide to gravity bleed the other corners as well

2018 power wagon. Replaced ABS MOD, paid abt $150 For programming. Did not erase the codes. Replaced the HCU with a used one, and I guess I got blessed. No codes. Works great now. At first I did not bleed the HCU. Just the brakes. After install, it acted funny when pedal depressed on the road. Now i Bled the HCU to get the air out from there, then the normal bleed procedure for the wheels. I did not bleed with the scanner bleed function

My 2018 did this around 20k miles. Dealer replaced under warranty. Now it's doing it again around 50k miles. I will try the warranty again. I have heard that the original part number ended in AA and there is a new AB unit that was on nation wide back order at the end of last year.

Same f'ing problem on my 2018 with 55k miles. Dealer's tech said it was the HCU, quoted me $1,400, the unit was only $360 of that cost the rest was labor and diagnostic, so I ordered the HCU and installed myself. Bled the brakes and the HCU using my AlfaOBD. Still had the same codes after trying a clear. So I'm thinking it must be the ACU that's bad, not the HCU. That's just freaking great😡🤬

Yes it did :)

My truck started doing that. If you take the hydro boost lines and you shake them, there's a liner on the inside of them. You can see it on the older generation of ram. It would get sucked into the tube going to the hydra boost. If you change the HCU and the ABS module I would consider looking into and replacing those lines. I'm getting mine custom built to where it gets rid of the liner

Sounds like a u joint getting tight in intermediate steering shaft

@@Tech-28 Its moves freely under no load when on a hoist?.

@@Tech-28 Are you having good luck with just replacing the hydraulic side and not the module to? or is there a specific fault you look for when replacing both?

Yeah I have had great luck just replacing the hydraulic side. The diagnostic procedure even says if the hydraulic portion doesn’t fix it, proceed with replacement of the electronic module

@@Tech-28 I seen that bulletin, wasn't sure if it's been updated or anything. Hopefully this class action suit goes through and I can get it covered. The parts are out of stock most places from what I can tell.

Yes same pump

Location is slightly altered on the 1500s but same take apart procedure

not having abs or cruise control

I've lost all that as well plus I have no 4x4

fyi I fixed my issues by replacing the ABS pump motor. It took about an hour.

I’ll look into it shortly and get back to you, what engine is in your truck?

@@Tech-28 5.7 Hemi, It’s a Tradesman short bed single cab. Thanks! I owe you

OK I’ll start by saying that there has been 114 confirmed repairs by replacing the antilock brake traction control module opposed to just replacing the antilock brake hydraulic unit only two hydraulic unit replacements have fixed The issue with code C2200. The diagnostic test for your fault code 49 is to verify that the antilock brake system module or the hydraulic control unit we’re not replaced individually from another vehicle note before continuing check the antilock brake system, module harness connector terminals for corrosion damage or terminal push out repair as necessary Then, using the schematics as a guide, inspect the wiring harness and connectors, pay particular attention to all power and ground circuits. There are no service bulletins at this time pertaining to the antilock brake system. However, the trouble tree will then tell you to remove and replace the antilock brake control module as the repair if the fault returns, then replace the hydraulic control unit. I personally have replaced many control modules and not so many hydraulic control units. So basically you’re just going to unplug the control, module harness connector and check for battery voltage using a DVOM at terminal number one which is tan/red pin number one. Also check ignition run start pink/light green pin number eight and fused be positive red/dark green pin number 32 then I would follow up by checking ground circuits on that connector starting with black wire pin number 16 and finally black wire pin number 47. If all wiring checks out I would recommend to replace the control module not the hydraulic unit. Hope this helps you out, and I hope you save some money. Make sure that if you do it yourself to follow the instructions and pay attention to what you’re doing as long as you do not disconnect any of the brake lines, the hydraulic portion of the brake system will stay intact , which is very important for brake operation. Wish you best of luck and don’t forget to smash that subscribe button. Cheers.

@@Tech-28 Thank you sir this helps me out a lot! When I get it done I’ll drink a case of Blue Ribbon lol. 👍🏼🇺🇸👍🏼

@@yogibeer9319 lol ok ok just don’t drink and drive!

Probably would take to dealer, not saying it can't be done in driveway, just wouldn't be easy.

Did you end up taking it? If so, how much did they get you for?

There is an ABS initialization that is required after replacing it, it shouldn’t mess with the delete.. it’s not flashing the software.

@@Tech-28 is that something that only a dealership can do or Can that be done with the snap on scan computer ?

Doesn’t have to be at the dealer, a scan tool will do it :)

I feel for ya man

Check description, I just put a link to the part

Is the part available? Every dealer I call has none or the ones they do have are for the many many trucks sitting in their lots with the same issue. Fed says their looking into it. Been months now... everyone I read about has the issue. Nothing is happening.

@@Tac0312 you could try a used one from car-part.com? It’s an option

@@Tech-28 that's a good idea. Thanks!

2013 Ram 1500 5.7

No you don’t have to do that before removing it, just do it after

I’ve never tried

No you can’t . It has to be done professionally by a shop that rebuilds them. Good luck tying to find a shop that will.

Also want to know the best part? 21,000 miles. Out of warranty.

Me too on my 2018 Power Wagon with 36K and there are no replacement parts available. I make a NHTSA report.

@@tfrank328 Me to. I have been waiting since Mid October. I am being told the new date parts are expected is Mid January 2023. Apparently they are switching suppliers of the pumps. I think I know why.

@@billklym6192 I sure hope you are right about when the part will be available. I've been waiting since September. I know they upgraded the part since the original #68143491-AA has been superseded by an AB part number. I contacted Ram Customer Care as well but I don't expect much from them. I going to fix it and trade it. I've lost confidence in the truck and I am sooo tired of the dinging sound!

@@billklym6192 I just contacted my local Dealer. The Parts Department quoted by 4 -6 weeks for the new part to be available so that matches with what you were told. That said, they sure did not sound very confident about the delivery date.

C0020-01 Hydraulic control unit General Electric failure / and the ABS + traction control lights were both on

@@Tech-28 Is that code particular to the hydraulic control unit? ie is there a different code for the electric module that you didn't change?

@@MrGdub1961 ill have to look and see if there is adifferent code for the module. i did change the module in the beginning as per the diagnostic instructions however the module did not fix it and the diagnostic tree told me to move on to the next part which is the motor assembly