Brake Pedal Goes to the Floor I ABS Pump Test I FORD I No Codes 

Glen, I hate to admit to ignorance of this as I pulled wrenches for many years and that was new to me!! Thanks for sharing that as I learned something new....

Hate that feeling like you stepped on a plum when you go for a panic brake. Nice work Glen diagnosing and getting the Ford back on the road.

Thank you. I have been fighting with my 2012 Lincoln Mkz for about 4 months now. I couldn't get any fluids to come out of the brake calipers. Hopefully this method help me diagnose my problem. Great job explaining this 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Great tips Glen and looks like you're getting that van back to its glory days! Keep up the good work!

Great video. Amazing hand-camera coordination. Thanks.

Thanks , ur video goes into my '97 E350 rebuild library . Saved me Hours of 2nd guessing myself & my work especially with the camera work on coat hanger

I drove my wife's Kia Sorento after she returned from a trip out of town, and I noticed the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel and would sink to the floor if held. I saw somewhere to check master cylinder versus ABS module problem, to drive on a dirt road about 20 MPH and lock up the brakes a few times. If the problem goes away--at least temporarily--the problem is in the ABS module. I tried it and sure enough, the problem went away for about three weeks before returning. Each time I did the locked- brakes thing, the problem stopped, but for shorter and shorter periods. Eventually I got an ABS warning light. The ABS module was $1300 plus labor, so I traded the POS in. KIA mechanics, as I found out over several trips for repairs, are not the upper end of skilled mechanics.

Was not aware of this trick! Have seen this happen twice before and basically ruled it out by process of elimination and only the ABS module could be the cause but I never knew of a way to test it directly.

Thank you so much for your video. I've been trying to find a way to test that pump for a while now. Very well done. {tongue twister and all)

Your conclusion appears to be that fluid is leaking into the piston that is effectively a pressure blow-off accumulator. Therefore a valve is not closing completely. Is there a way to nondestructively remove clean/replace the valve?

Sinking also could be the brake booster is the booster is leaking good informative video

Great useful information! Thanks!

My brake pedal sinks after changing the front brake calipers. They have changed the brake master cylinder, they have bled the ABS module with a scanner and it remains the same. I can't find the problem, any ideas?.

Thanks for another precise explanation of system operation and diagnosis. You do a great job getting your point across with the video. The folks in your area are fortunate to have a good technician like you 👍

Great informative video. Thanks

Cheers from Austin, Texas . New to your channel.

Hey Ozzstar. I think you did a great job showing the steps to test. My ABS is from a chevy silverado 01. I did your test but I have the opposite effect in my test. I get no movement at all. What do you think?

thanks man please make sure you compensate your helper

I'm having this problem on my '03 escape, - decent pedal when engine off, but low pedal engine on. Sadly, there's no way to get to those ports. 😢 What do you think about putting a used abs on? Do they have to be reprogrammed?

We’ve taken my dad’s 2009 Ford Explorer to 2 mechanics so far - a local mechanic up the street from us (who said they couldn’t figure out what the issue was for the soft brake pedal) & we then took it to a Ford dealership, to see if they could diagnose the problem. (I don’t know how long they sent on looking for problems - but they also said that they couldn’t figure out the issue. They now say they need at least 2 extra hours, for diagnosis, which will cost over $300!) My questions are these - do you know how thorough these initial inspections are, through the dealerships (or do they do as little as possible, especially if they’re busy like this dealership was) & wound you recommend, at this point, of just giving the vehicle to charity & investing in a newer vehicle? I’m not a mechanic myself & know very little about fixing vehicles - (other than what I learn from videos like yours) - & want to know what the best course of action would be, in this particular case. (To save both time & money.) I’m planning on asking Ford to provide a list of “tests” they did, while they’ve had my dad’s vehicle - but I don’t know if they will do this or how detailed the list will be, if I can obtain it.

Very informative…how about “how to replace”? Thanks!

Do you have the ignition on? Tested my 2002 sonoma like this and the pistons don't move at all. (Master cylinder?)

What about if its too hard? I mean how hard should one push? It doesn't lock

What are the lines called that run from the master cylinder to the abs module

Can this be random and have a slight vibration in the pedal only

First time I've ever seen this, too! I think it sounds vaguely familiar, though - I might have read about it in a Haynes manual, or online, many years back. If that were my van, I'd be bypassing that $1,000 headache! Great vid, Glen! 👍🍻

My 2014 Tundra has this symptom. So when you disconnect the two brake lines from the master cylinder, you will test it by stepping on the pedal,after you plug the two holes up.if the pedal goes down, the master cylinder is bad,right ? If the pedal doesn’t go down, the ABS pump is bad,right? Thanks. By the way,great testing procedures. I will try on mine

Hi , good video 👍 I have a 2000 F150 The ABS light has been on a long while but my brakes still work fine. Besides the ABS not working and my brakes locking up on a sudden stop, should I be worried about driving my Ol Bessie?

If the numbers match from the bad unit to the junkyard unit does it have to be programmed?

Great video👍🏻

I have this, but it only happens when the engine is on. So I'm guessing my issue is the break booster, or some of have said a faulty caliper. But I still don't know.

Can a bad break booster cause this too.

What if the service ports don't move at all

I have this issue but today my brakes completely failed for a second. It was scary on my 2002 silverado 4x4. I called my mechanic and he tested it out and found out the abs computer isn’t working. I almost shat my pants 💀

😂 move on to the next headache

Need u help

My abs pump runs even when the truck is off I have to disconnect the battery every time I park

This is probably the 8th to 10th ABS troubleshooting video I've watched in the last couple of hours, and yet it is the only one that actually showed how to diagnose the ABS Pump itself. Some people jumped to re-soldering joints in the ABS Module and they didn't even mention to try this first. Once you have eliminated; leaks (at each wheel, all the lines, master cyl, brake booster), blown fuses and relays, wiring/connectors/grounds, this should be the next thing to look at.

Good video Glen! I didn't know that ford had that test port! Thanks for the tip!

That's a stuck open de-pressurisation ('dump') valve in the ABS module... The hole is just a hole on the dry side of the accumulator piston. What's happening here is when the brake pedal is depressed, it's routing master cylinder line pressure straight through the open valve into the sprung accumulator (the 'spring' sound you hear when the piston is pushing the piece if wire out...) Normally this valve only opens as the second stage of ABS intervention after the isolation valve closes first, in order to reduce pressure in the caliper and allow the wheel to rotate again. But in this case it's always open, so master cylinder pressure is just going to move an accumulator piston instead of the pistons in the caliper... I had this same issue on a Nissan GTR on track.

And all you have to do for that is go down the road and slam on the brakes a couple of times to activate the pump and get it working and I’ve done another trick take a hammer or brass hammer and slightly tap the pump because the valves get hung up in it and it’s mainly on Fords drive down the road 30 to 40 miles an hour slam on the brakes get that ABS system active do it 3 to 4 times your problems gone you got a full pedal it won’t go to the floor no more I’ve seen people replace their ABS pump and had the same issue. You have to activate the pump get it working again.

the new Master cyl seals worked great but with the engine running the pedal still goes to the floor . A Foxwell NT 630 pro ABS bleed scan tool bleed has improved things but the brakes are still acting up . I need to go find a dirt road and have a play .. maybe the ABS unit just needs a good workout .

Well, I have the same year, same model van as you and did this test with a similar result! So, if I understand you correctly, we need an ABS pump, but NOT the module, correct? Any compatible vehicles with a similar pump? Not having much luck sourcing it as of yet. Thank you for this!

I have been fighting a slight brake pedal sink for about 5 years. After a ton of break fluid, 2 master cylinders, several trips to the break shop, all I can say is ..... Thank You! My issue is very minimal, and is intermittent. 1 pump of the brakes, and the pedal wont sink, but sometimes the pedal will sink after I've come to a complete stop. A quick pump of the pedal and its solid again. NOW, I know what to do to fix it. You're awesome.

I suspected the master cylinder until I found one line leak. I had viewed many videos in the last two weeks. Your was the first to say how to test master cylinder in place with two plugs! Thank you for teaching!!!

You never mentioned how much movement a normal operating pump should have, 1/4 inch?

I just replaced my master cylinder in my 99 burban because I thought that was the problem. If I test this thing and it's busted I hope you have a video on how to bypass it.

I have been rebuilding my 2001 f150 for a while now cleaning the whole thing up and this is the biggest problem that I have had and I think you just rectify that for me God bless you and thank you so much

Ooh very helping...it has costed me more than 130 dollars trying to solve it here in kenya. .but thank God i will change Abs Pump

I changed the brake pads and rotors on my vehicle. Is that normal for the brake pedal to go to the floor when first pressing

Excellent job! Great visual!

Would a bad ABS pump set a code? My brakes sink to the floor. I was getting ready to replace the brake master cylinder.

Do many, or most, other makes and models cars and vans have these same two test ports on their ABS pumps, too? If not, why, I wonder. Thanks. Also, can ABS pumps leak externally through these piston test ports (the ones that have them)?

4:04 she's so happy to help. thank sir !! good info, my Ford Escape have same issue but goes and come around.

That was a great visual of a bad ABS pump.

Nice job Glen, I use a brake line U adapter I made to close off the MC works good... gotta love when the helpers are like are you all set now? All set? Lol my 15yr son got his patience from his mom 😂 girls are essier lol

I learned something today.thanks !

Wow, your helper looks identical to a friend's daughter....just saying.....

on the 1996 E Vans the HCU is under the Drivers seat on from Rail before the Fuel filter.. It gets wet. and the HCU controller on top will Short out.. You can remove and replace it with out removing the hcu.. IF those solenoids get wet like mine did it can cause the Van to Shake and Shimmy without even touching the pedal.

Trouble shooting a 2011 Ford Edge with intermittent sinking brake pedal. I can restore the brake pedal by driving on dirt road and slamming on the brakes which engages the ABS system. This lasts for anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months then the pedal sinks again. I can also restore the pedal by using ThinkDiag OBDII diagnostic software which allows me to turn on the ABS pump while sitting still in the driveway. Does it make sense to you that I probably have a sticking dump valve? When stuck open it is allowing fluid to circulate internally in the HCU I think. A new ABS ECU & HCU is not available for purchase through Ford (Nationwide outage). Are you aware of a way to rebuild or clean out the HCU, specifically the dump valve and possibly restore the normal operation? I know I would then have to bleed the HCU as well as the entire system. Thoughts? Thanks!

Good advice Glen. Looks like that van is keeping you busy.

Thanks I will start with master cylinder test. Hope thats it If it is the abs pump i will go to pick your part with a helper and some dot 3

Thank you Buy Mine only when the engine is running

Great video, your expertise is much appreciated. I can’t wait to run this “rod” test. But I thought I heard you say that you tested the module before you did the pump. How do you test the module?

Bmw x3 just had my rear brakes replaced and before I paid I checked and yes they are Spongy and they say they would have to go deeper and check the master cylinder $$$

Nice tip. I need to check my son's ABS pump on his '06 Escape when he comes home for Spring Break because he's got a soft pedal.

Nice video. Thanks for your time to produce this and your helper did a great job I have 2005 F150 with this problem

Wow at all the movement in the abs pump

Excellent video, one of a kind, and thanks to your daughter as well. My question is, can I use a 2-way scan tool to check the pump/solenoid valves? I can't see those ports on my vehicle ABS pump.

Hi! I've got similar problem with Opel Vectra C I figured out this test by myself after I swap ESP module and open old one with grinder but in my case pedal sinking in the floor slowly but there are no movement of this spring loaded containers (those which you showed). I installed new MC (my firs attempt) than I swapped ESP module, checked new MC with plugs, as you said - it's hard, no leaks, system was bleeded by adding pressure to fluid container and problem persist. Any tips? ps. It only sinking at running engine - probably higher pressure during boost. Friend of mine told me that in ABS/ESP system there maybe bypass valve in MC, have you seen one?

When I clicked on your video I was expecting to see about the RABS module/unit on the driver side rail, but I'm always glad to discover new info. Would a 91 diesel van have that pump in addition to the module? I'm having the same issue with pedal fade, trying to track down the issue, man it's a headache! Haha. Great video, thanks for sharing!

Thank you im going through that now but my freestyle is a 2005 with 297,500 miles , I'm not putting 800- 1,000 into a used part . O yippee looks like trade in car payment time

Wow, that's a topic I never understood, thanks for the info! Your method of testing the MC is elegantly simple. I imagine there's a lot of force on the fluid coming out of the MC, so you'd need threaded caps for each end to test it properly. I don't remember those test ports on my GM abs sensor, I'll have to look again. Too bad the replacement is so expensive. Removing the ABS would be more complicated than people think, one would have to add in a diverting valve for safety, it wouldn't be easy.

What do you do for a leaking ABS pump when Ford has discontinued the part (#3L3Z2C286AARM) for a 2000 Ford E350 Club Wagon XLT w/7.3 PowerStroke?

I think I have an extraordinary problem here, zero resistance on the brake pedal but the brakes are working strong and good. The resistance from the pedal disappears when the vehicle is moving. What is the cause to this problem?

I'm here...

Hey 👋man I have a question with similarities to this. my test port is leaking on the left port behind the dust cap any way I can possibly fix that in the garage ??

coming back for a second look .. My Citroen C5 pedal to the floor was worn out master cylinder seals .. €6 euros for a service kit and a lot of my time and I now have a like new brake pedal feel .

Thanks for the info, was doubting myself but this confirms my ABS problem on my Honda CRV, cheers

I got some brake fluid coming out of those plugs at the abs unit. Guess it’s the abs unit

My pedal sinks only when the motor is fired up. It’s holding 20hg vacuum for over an hour after it’s turned off. Motor off the pedal is hard as

I have this symptom in my '07 Expy. Now I have a solution for verifying the problem.

How would you bleed the lines after putting a new one in? Is there a special way to do it?

What about drilling a tapping one of them test ports with a 1/4x20 and running a bolt into it? If it can't move it can't bypass.

Good information

Thanks for the video. Does a 09 Ford Escape have test ports? Got one doing the same but the pumps configuration is a little different. Thanks in advance.!!!

Is a excelente explication and great vedeo 👍👏 I replaced a master cylinder on my 95 chevrolet suburban and the pedal not have pressure!! I drain all Brake fluid and take the air but the brake pedal still going to end down not keep pressure!! Anyone knows the tricks for taking air or something is wrong 🤔 I appreciate if someone can help cheers from Norway

Хорошее видео. Like

Would this test work on a 2011 fiesta?

Great info my friend. Thank you for sharing 👍

Why not just take off the ABS crap? We are not driving a jumbo jet here.

So if there's no movement at all it's fine?

I have brake return that takes 5 seconds as well.. 2003 f350 7.3

I hit a pothole while slaming the brakes notice my pedal sinking slowly. i had replace the booster and powerstreering 3 months ago because had hard steering wheel and spongy pedal. Right now i replace master cylinder all 4 caliper because seems like one was sticking rear pasanger side.i get the brake pedal hard enough while truck shut off bleed complete already but when I start the truck and press the brakes starts pulsating contantly just while i press . 1999 ford f350 7.3 dually 4wd

Good video. To the point.

done the dirt road abs test which worked great but the pedal still sinks to the floor . Got a second hand ABS module coming from EBAY. I have a sneaky feeling thone of the valves is sticking in the ABS valve body .

I know this is older I am hoping you still reply we have replaced brake booster master cylinder all brakes around bled the whole system pulled the fuse to the abs. The pedal with ut off will go to the floor and you pump it once and it stiffens and no leaks anywhere and but if you start it it always goes to the floor it used to be intermittent. The brakes booster one way valve is good and tested vacuum and we have enough for it. we tried doing this test I am wondering what if you feel no movement against the hanger on either side does that indicate that it's bad????

Can you just bypass the ABS altogether?

My 1998 f150 4 wheel drive has 3 rubber capped ports on the bottom of my abs pump . Going to test these soon . My abs light is on and some times it bounces off the bottom which tells me it's going into abs mode . I still have ok brakes but oveisly something is going on which is not right .

Cool Tip, I didn't know that