Brake & safety system errors on a Hyundai Ioniq Electric 28kWh at 95,000 miles 

Yes, sounds like its most likely a wheel sensor at fault. You may want to watch this video too ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhM4rZc3IG4.htmlsi=BCVF-C3VSh2ewsZF

No. I would have liked to film it, but I didn't have the time on that day. Its just a case of removing the brake caliper (both sections), the brake disk, handbrake motor and then unbolting the wheel hub assembly. It took about 1 hour.

You'll be very happy with the Ioniq. They're great EVs.

@@GoGreenAutos all thanks to you most of all Matt. I'm only sorry to have been in too much of a rush to have had you find me one. This is just some temporary fun for me while I can still get in and out of it! Going to need something like the MGZS in two or three years. I fell for the '22 Trophy version, maybe the so called short range with the LFP battery would be good for us. I'll get you to keep an eye out for me come '24 when finances should allow. 🤞👍

Do you mean, software for combining the ABS sensor into the rear wheel bearing?

@@GoGreenAutos Thanks for the reply, I meant are the rear sensors still integrated into the hub?

@@p6picasso I've not looked at one on a 38kWh model, but I would imagine they're incidental. I would be very surprised if such components were changed.

Its a Autel MaxiCheck MX808TS scanner. It also reads and programs TPMS too, which is why I got it.

@@GoGreenAutos Thanks for that. I now know what I want for Christmas!!!

@@cazza6944 I don't know. I've never needed to investigate any alternatives as our Autel diagnostic scanner works so well on the Ioniq.

@@cazza6944 The Torque app apparantly

Don't have the part number to hand any more. But put your VIN into this partsouq.com/en to see the parts diagrams for your car. Also see this later video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhM4rZc3IG4.html as the sensor can be purchased and replaced.

@@GoGreenAutos did the problem fix since you changed the part? SAME thing happen to my ioniq ev C1208(02) CODE came up..abs Regen bsd when out, it happens random as well also camera shy i guess

@@jeremypsp5050 Yes, all fixed. Done about 2,000 miles since.

It was the first time I've removed one and filming adds an lot of time to the job, especially when you've made mistakes. But its an easy enough job. But next time I will video it.

Jacking and supporting an EV is no different to any other vehicle, but you must not jack or support the vehicle on the battery pack. I don't have the Ioniq here at the moment, so can't confirm the specifics on that car, but its fine to support it on any structural/suspension metalwork that looks strong enough. Don't use plastic covered metalwork though.

Yes, inspected the wiring. It's been 6 weeks now since fitting the new wheel hub and it definitely fixed the problems.

Not clever enough to explain how it works anyway!

For a low 12V battery to start causing problems, I'd suggest it needs to be below about 10.5V. 13V is not low. Normal operating voltage is around 12.4. The 14.7v is the voltage from the DC-DC converter which is charging the battery when the vehicle is in ready mode. In your case, to get an error when driving, I suspect it was a wheel sensor that caused it. Maybe from slipping on a manhole cover or maybe just an interrupted signal. A failing wheel sensor can be intermittent for months before it becomes a bigger issue.

@@GoGreenAutos you could well be right - I've not seen the error for weeks although I did replace the 12v battery (only £50 for a Varta replacing a Hyundai - possibly the original) but yesterday the errors came back. This time I was prepared for it. Found a place to pull over and scanned for errors with Car Scanner Pro on my phone. Had a bunch of errors come back, one of which is 'C1652(08) Raw code: 565208 ECU: ABS control unit Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed, Warning indicator requested'. Others were for the airbag (no warning light for that though!) and electronic parking brake (warning light) and blind spot detection (but lane departure warning was working with the error messages). On restarting the warning lights were off so drove on. They came back again. This time I scanned for errors and reset them while moving, lights go off and normal service resumes! I think to get detailed information it will have to go on a proper code reader - but suspect I'm looking at something similar. If it is, the first 'warning' I had that something might be up was last year when parking the car the EPB didn't apply when the car was switched off - I know because my drive is on a slight slope and I don't want to habitually rest the car on the parking brake pin - but it wasn't a common problem. It has reoccurred a few times before the first Christmas lights moment a month or so ago too. And several times since. I wonder if anyone else has noticed that?

Been busy with a move and the new site needs a lot of work, so the vehicle sales has taken a back step for a while. Over time, I can see the vans becoming more prominent.

There is an ABS sensor in each wheel hub. You need to read the error codes first to find out which wheel sensor is faulty.

Yes, see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uiORQnQv_x4.html

Or any braking!

@@GoGreenAutos true- you had to start early! The Issetta was worse and don't start me on the Daf 33!

@@johnfaulkner6776 All before my time. My first car was a 1971 Austin Mini 850 in lime green.

Thank you Richard. I've just checked and its the same! Hyundai UK do not have this on their parts list for the Ioniq, but it is the same part. Thanks to you, I've just made another video on this subject, which I'll post this Friday.

@@GoGreenAutos Brilliant news Matt 👍

@@richardhaywoodh Correction - video is out next Friday....better not have two Ioniq videos back to back. Clearly not many liked this by the low views and comments.