Hey Jeff! Glad to hear it from you. This project is long overdue. I can't wait to get everything setup so it runs in automated mode where all you have to do is fill up the hopper with brass and I can work on something else. I've been using the torch annealer I made which is single fed and last time it took me nearly an hour to anneal some of my brass!
Still tinkering Dima? Awesome! Im still using flame annealing and what a drag compared to induction. I put a plug in for your awesome gas check dies on CW Longshots channel but he deleted it right away for some reason.
Oh yeah, I added timed relay now and can't get enough of how awesome and fast it is! Prior to that I was annealing with flame too and was getting really annoyed how long it was taking me to do the batch of brass, it took me almost 1 hour! Today I was processing 6.5 Grendel brass and it was 2.2 seconds per case! Next step for me is to add a trap door and a convenient way to adjust it up and down for different cases.
The amperage made a huge difference! Once I hooked up 1000W PS (50v at 20A), even dropping to 40v (800W) it took about 1.75 seconds for .223 to start glowing and it took 3 seconds for .308 to glow where as with original PS it took a whopping 24 seconds!
@@DimaProk that's kind of my point I know you're after speed. But you're also going to glowing red, which is too much. So if you increase your time or lower your voltage, it'll give you more latitude. You're probably fully anealed. Just that Steam comes off and before it turns red, your fully anealed
@@cw2a You know I though the voltage would play a bigger role but its amperage that really matters. Increasing from 36v to 42v I expected to be at least 1 second faster but it wasn't. It seems like 10A is good enough for .223 but definitely not for .308. Keeping the time shorter also reduces heat produced in the coil and at the board itself. Those capacitors get real hot if you operate continuously and will burn out as it happened with my 1st board when I didn't use water cooled coil. I am going to add a fan to blow on top of it. Have you seen Eric Cortina's video where he over annealed the cases to 20 seconds and STILL took the same force to seat the bullet. Its pretty shocking! I will tell you though that a thinner 223 based cartridges don't behave the same. I remember I over annealed my 300 HAM'R brass and was struggling to keep the neck tension. I could push the bullet in if I pushed against the desk. It definitely surprising results though with his brass. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9HfjRKrbYbo.htmlsi=c3eXKoz5KlGCVDF5 Once I get my timer which I had purchased for this project like 6-7 years ago setup (finding instruction manual will be fun) and connected to Solid State Relay, I can dial in exact time I need it. I aim for when it just starts to glow, like dark red that's when I consider it done. I do have Tempilaq I can use to verify but I found it you don't really need it.
