We'll show you our process and a progression used for getting those rusted and seized gun screws out. This may be the most valuable episode we've produced for anyone who likes to work on old guns.
Another handy thing I was taught, was once the screw cracks loose, is the same for all threads actually, is to wind it back in a quarter of a turn or more for every turn out, to help clear the threads of rust and debris coming out and minimise the chances of it binding up again .
I learned years ago that if you run across a Phillips head screw that has been stripped out is to take a Torx bit that is close to the same size and hammer it in and try it. This method has saved me from needing an Easy Out on more than one occasion!
I do not KNOW the name of the tip or tool, it is Canadian in heritage, still used in the electrical trade and industry. Looks like a flat screwdriver tip with a diamond type shape machined in the center (as a sparky I own some). I find I can drive them into damaged Philips with some success, like anything depending on damage and such, and maybe a slot cut to help.
Use valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver (Phillips head) and in the screw head. An impact driver or impact gun either shatters the screwdriver tip, or gets the screw out.
I do a lot of rework on original 1861/63 Springfields and 1852 Enfield rifle muskets. I feel your pain, Lol! I found patience and the judicious use of heat works. Big thing is to be prepared to walk away, calm down and let it sit for a while. Don't rush it. That's what I have to tell myself again and again.
45 years in various types of shops but you taught me two things today! Never thought to peen back chewed up metal on a screw, always just dressed them down. The drill press trick was great as well! Ya got me heading into the new year smarter than I was. Thanks!
I know having the correct fitting screwdriver is so important but had never seen that method with a drill press before, thank you, I think it could be a game changer!!
In aviation maintenance, I use a "screw knocker" to remove tough screws. It's an attachment for a rivet gun. Try tapping the end of the screw driver, as you are turning it.
That's great. In the past when I have a stuck screw like that and I try the first two steps without any luck, I very gently use a small impact driver. Of course if that doesn't work its off to the mill for some drilling.
Drill Press, Tip is a great idea! Thank you for posting. Kroil is a top notch product Another method I've used with good results and Heat is: Use heat and Melt parafin wax into the screw, the heat usually expands the metal enough to allow the thin liquid wax to flow down into the threads. And wax is a superb lubricant, but the lubricating properties of the wax only lasts about 1/4 turn. So you will have to remelt and add wax again if it binds back up This is mainly just to initially break it loose. Use Naptha to dissolve the wax when you're done
Kroil claims that it is "the oil that creeps." Last night I put can of it at the end of my work bench and when I came out there this morning, it had crept to the other end of the bench! Thanks for the good video, sir!
I also use Kroil which I learned about from a friend at work years ago. I had a stuck choke tube once on a model 1100 20 gauge. I put the barrel muzzle down in a small bucket, supported the receiver in my vice and poured Kroil down the barrel till I had a couple of inches in the bucket. Came back the next morning and removed the choke tube with no problem. I then poured the Kroil back in the can so I would have it for the next time I needed it to save my bacon.
Your work is amazing. There can't be many guys on the entire planet with your skill set and knowledge of vintage firearms. I hope some young guys coming up can continue the tradition.
Excellent video, the other one I would add is use the tip of a soldering gun or iron to heat the screw up then drip in the Kroil or PB blaster. After it’s hot it will wick into the threads most of the time. I work on rusty cranes on piers so I feel this pain constantly.
Hello Mark, As always you provide priceless information to the viewers. The main problem with messed up screws is the use of the wrong screwdriver. I purchased a quality gunsmith set decades ago from Dixie Gun Works.I still use them today. Your drill press idea is fabulous. Besides Kayno, Kroil oil, I found an equal 50-50 mix of automatic transmission oil and acetone works well as a rust breaking solvent. But just mix a little as the acetone evaporates quickly. It worked well on a clean out screw in the breach block of my original 1863 Sharps carbine. After a few days of repeated soaking. As you said, patience is critical.
"Kroil!" is AWSUM! I learned working around machinists! Once you go to "penetrating" oil Help IT Penetrate! Vibration, vibration, VIBRATION! some times a day or so penatration, and I found sometimes going a tiny bit "Tighter" helps come "Looser?" once or twice I have found reversed threads. I love the DRILL PRESS idea!! THIS is GOING into my Tool Idea Box! Got to say "Once in a While" an Impact driver comes out with a two-pound hammer. Just did most this on a stuck breach plug and vent liner, butt I ended with drilling the liner and easy outing, and patience with engineering tooling worked for the breach plug. I attack with the thoughts of "I will" only fix it or go down in flames trying, but get it done with respect and honor for the engineering and history, never give up, never give in.
I bought a brand new 1858 Remington Never been able to completely tear it down. Screw under the trigger guard just is stubborn from the factory. Gonna give this a go. Wish me luck and thanks for posting!
Heat and candle wax works well if the application can allow for a torch. Obviously not in this particular situation but something to keep in mind. The candle wax won't evaporate like oil when the flame is applied. Also for pin point heat a magnifying glass and the sun work very well.
You may want to look at Northern Tool for a "Manual Impact Driver". They are a spring loaded, hammer driven, device that you hold in your hand and twist it in the direction you wish to go and then gently strike it with a hammer. It not only twists the screw but the hammer blow drives the bit into the slot of the screw helping to keep from rolling out of the slot (same for Phillips screws). Item #80657 is a 1/4 inch drive and there is a 3/8 inch also for the bigger fasteners. They both have a square drive and come with a hex adapter for screw driver bits. As you mentioned, the hammer blows tend to break up the rust.
They make a hand held screwdriver when hit on the steel barrel it torques the screw with a lot of power. Works on most cases in my experience. You twist the steel body and load the screwdriver so that the hammer blow is working to unload it and at the same time unscrew the screw. Not very expensive and you can get additional bits as neeeded. It was called a Torque ScrewDriver long before the electric impact drivers came on the scene and actually does a very different job as it applies more force in a controlled manner. I like your drill press method for things you can carry over and fit on the press table.
Amazing! I’ve been struggling for over a week on this old 3030 I’ve been trying to restore, but have had two screws stuck. Using the drill press I was able to get them both out within a matter of minutes! Thanks for all the advice.
First off , I would have started off this DIY info vid with " never use a carpenters / woodworkers type of screwdriver to remove slot headed screws from any type of firearm or cutlery product , unless you mean to damage the screw head !!! Anyone who has ever had to locate , buy & have shipped , a tinny replacement screw for one of their firearms , knows how troubling & costly these items can be !!! The next thing I would have advised the watchers of this type of video is , to automatically & with great haste , to invest in a great set of gunsmiths' screwdrivers as part of that first purchase of any firearm !!! Brownell's has a top drawer set that they offer & no one surpasses the gunsmiths' set offered by Chapman Mfg. All other suggestions & methods shared in this video were top drawer & only lacking in this extra bit of data !!! Thank you sir !!!
One method you didn't mention that we did at the gun shop is to use a blow...hammer impact...use to use all the time to break loose stubborn rusted screws..of course after soaking with some type of skunk piss..Shoe in SW Oregon.
Thanks. I gave up on a "keeper" screw for the stock screw of a Remington Model 11 shotgun that really needs restocked. That was long ago and stocks with forends were readily available. Not sure if I will try again, unless .....
well I am older than dirt and been in the trades all my life. I tried this on a 1800 rifle reciever screw that I been soaking for a week. This work that like you showed it. Thanks
Good video and valuable info. Kroil is the best penetrant I have used also. Sometimes an impact driver is useful, spend the extra money and get a snap on,the extra money will pay for itself in quality and results. God bless.
Hey Mark you did it again! Great video but, got a tip for you. Learned years ago in the home shop of my uncle whom was a 50 yr. master machinist with GE. In these situations, use as you did the large vise but first position the receiver/part in a vise with shorter jaws then clamp that whole assembly, turned 90 degrees into the large vise as you have there. Does three things, short height jaws, even if you mill a vise down yourself, gives access to small/smaller parts and adds mass to these components to resist passive movement from the torque input from the angular momentum your imparting with the press. Lastly it clamps the clamp! Meaning, it takes any movement out of the jaws that can allow slippage of parts. The cross clamping adds firmness to the acme threads or maybe cheaper vises. As I type this I see a possible additional benefit of resisting possible quill movement from flex or slop from worn or cheaper drill presses. Keep up the great videos!!!
Kroil is my go to penetrating oil for any stuck screws. I’ve seen it work miracles on rust and gunk. It also works great on getting lead out of barrels. Another simply great video sir.
Why didn't you go to an impact driver before the drill press? The only screw I've never been able to remove without ruining the screw head and mar the stock finish was on a pellet gun because the metal was extremely soft. I actually used a hand drill and drilled just deep enough to pound in the tip of a sharp #00 phillips and attached to a little impact driver I got from the auto parts store, it finally came out. NEVER needed a drill press on a firearm of any other kind. Give it a shot! You'll be glad you did! AWWWWW! Great way to use a drill press! GREAT IDEA! Thanks!
For me...and I have restored quite a few of the model 90's and other vintage winchesters and remingtons... a good fitting screw driver and a hammer are essential. You have to whack that screw good, not just love taps. An impact driver works equally well, must have proper tight fitting bit and it could take a dozen raps but it will come. Never have used heat and for all the hype about Kroil and I have had it around for 30 or more years now, I have not seen it work that well. Impact force with a tight hollow ground tip driver is the recipe for me
Mark, what a timely video. I bought a Winchester model 43 and found an original Lyman receiver sight for it a few days later. When I tried to back the tiny sight filler screws out of the reciever one of the two screw heads cracked and the top half of one hemisphere sheared off. I put the screw drivers back in the kit so now I have one more item for you to look at this spring!
Another good video with some great tips. I find treating with Kroil up front to be a great share of the battle. Makes the subsequent steps work ever better. Well done again on a fine video!
Cool Tip.. when a bing bang is coated with Cerakote I have also resourced to heating the screw with a soldering iron to avoid overheating the coating on the bing bang. 🤓😎
I had a old gunsmith show me that trick a few years ago and i was relly glad he did i have done that and it really works glad you showed that to everone
I've used the polished ball peen hammer but the drill press trick is new and I can't wait to try it on a win. 1897 shotgun that's been soaking in ATF/ kerosene Thanks.
Wanted to stop in and say, Thank You and Happy New Year! Have a similar situation going with a uberti cattleman 4click chambered in 44. Straight shooting and hard hitting with the 217gr bullet being pushed by a compressed load of 32gr homemade powder.
Although at the ripe old age 39 and still just a pup...in my experience, you didn't swear at it near enough before bringing out the big guns. She'll usually give up the fight and give in, if done good 'n proper!
Another little tip to help getting traction with the bit in the screw is to put a water-based valve lapping compound in the slot and on the bit to keep it from slipping. A trick I learned fixing motorcycles and ATVs, professionally, for over 45 years.
best video I've ever seen. I have a model 1897 Remington Rolling Block with 3 stuck screws, and a stuck cross pin. Penetrating oil hasn't worked so far.
I have had great success using graphite electrolysis with the anodes facing the disagreeable fastener in question. It takes off bluing, but in some cases it doesn’t matter.
I had a similar issue with a screw head that completely stripped. I attempted to use a screw extractor but all it did was take off more of the metal using a drill. Took it to a machinist friend that used the screw extractor, except that he hammered the extractor into the screw head (or what was left of it). He then used a vice grip to torque the screw extractor to remove the screw. Looks like you need the extra leverage provided by a torque arm with a slow and steady rocking force.
Hadn’t ever thought of using the pressure and control of a drill press to break loose a screw I’ll have to remember that. As always thanks for the content.
