Anyone that went threw the hobby when modified rebuiding brushed motors where the only option it was simple to break in your motor. All I ever did was install the motor & run my rc vehicle at about 25% throttle around the track with the timing set to 0° forwards then repeat the process driving in reverse. Then I would remove the brushes & clean the brush surfaces & commutator surface with a comm brush & then advance my timing. It was simple using silver content polarized serrated brushes being they broke in so quikly I ran modified 8 to 10 turn double & triple wind Trinity Motors, Peak Racing, & GM Motors when I raced 2wd stadium trucks in the late 1990's to 2004 when I gave up racing because Team Losi sold out to Horizon Hobby & ruined 1/10 scale 2wd electric & nitro racing since it happened.
I used to use a 3-cell nicad or nimh pack, I built from individual cells. I wired it with motor leads and simply plugged the motor in. These put out roughly 3-4 volts so, perfect. Of course, I sped things up with a water break-in, lol. A quick bath of approx. 1-2 minutes is all that is really needed. Use motor spray to get rid of residual water, add a few drops of 3-in-1 and Bob's your Uncle! Of course, a power supply is much more convenient but significantly more expensive then a few loose cells.
Thanks for sharing that and answering my question from the last video with this on how to relube the motor 😎🤙🏼 also not that I agree with doing this but how about doing a torture test on the motors? Let's see some magic smoke 😅
I found that the serrated brushes that came with my first Crawlmaster pro 550 motor caused the commutator to wear quickly and so unevenly that it could not be trued and required an armature replacement after only about 80 hours. I currently have six or seven Crawlmaster Pro 550 12t motors and before I ran any of them I used a 1/4" round ceramic stone rod to remove the serrations on the brush contact surface. All of these motors now have well over 100 hours and I have not worn out a commutator on any of them since I started honing the brushes.
It's a little ironic that your improvements on brushless motors have contributed to the demise of rebuildable brushed motors. There will always be sealed can brushed motors simply due to economics but rebuildable brushed motors must be on their way out.
I think you should promote your rebuildables for comp builds again with your BRXL. Even with the 1080 you get that analog throttle curve for the most controlled thottle movements vs. the multi step of FOC. They don't have the resolution to match a good brushed combo w/direct wire servos. But even for the RTR better brushed motor = better performance. If people think about noise then look no further than the your pinion and spur gear. Why don't we have bevelled pinion and spur gears for more quieter operation. Belt drives stretch the belts or break the teeth of the belt. Al least that has been my experience with the ones from China. Does anyone else make them more reliably?
i have broken in sealed cans with water and the amount of dust and buildup was incredible. I had to change the water half way through as it got very dark but it did the job and the water bath increased the RPM noticably. I now think back and the way i dried it was running it high speed with a blow dryer but damnit i forgot to add lubricant to the bearings/bushings. Even when you do this for a long time you still make mistakes!! Cheers for sharing!
Well, I've been doing it pretty much right. lol I usually hook them up to an ESC and run them for a couple of minutes at about 25% throttle. Had I been thinking, I'd have always used a power supply as you did. 🤣
For grass roots our club has brushed sealed can classes. I race mini stock so Tamiya minis, out club is sealed can and 19 turn limit. Rightly or wrongly I do water bed in motors. Possibly slightly dodgy method I have for removing water is dunking in isopropyl alcohol. The ipa absorbs water and drys off. I let the motor dry for a day in well vented area before applying power again to avoid fire 🔥 haha. Unfortunately your new retro motor is too chunky for my Tamiya m-07
