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New Zealander here. Nectaron was pretty easy to get was it was still a trial hop here, and was available for many years. It was pretty popular, locally considered the 'NZ Mosaic' - that is a great pairing and single hop. Last year NZ Hops lost exclusive rights to Nelson Sauv, which means growers outside the co-operative could now plant and sell it. As a result, they needed a new cash cow. Nectaron (and now Superdelic) is it. They marketed it hard to the American brewers, even down to how it was named. Previously their hops were named after hop growing regions in NZ, which meant they all had Māori names. Those were hard to market to the American audience, who can't pronounce the names at all. The hard pitch to the American brewers has had quite a negative impact on local hop supplies. NZ is a small country, and produces a relatively tiny amount of hops. As it stands, only a small portion of those hops are earmarked for local distribution. Why sell at a lower price at home when American brewers are frothing at the mouth for the stuff? NZ Hops doesn't even supply to homebrew stores any more: Previously stores could buy these hops in bulk and then repackage into smaller lots. NZ Hops doesn't allow that anymore. They personally supply a limited amount of pre-packaged smaller quantities, as the 'bulk' packages are purely for breweries and (majorly) for export. It means at the homebrew scale these hops are now very expensive and usually just straight up out of stock. Previously our most expensive hops were the popular American varieties (Citra, Mosaic etc.) The prices on those haven't gone down, but ironically that's cheaper to buy now than Nectaron, Superdelic or Nelson Sauv. NZ Hops have also struck a deal with Yakima Valley Hops, allowing YKV to produce Cryo versions of the popular NZ Hops - these products also never make it back to NZ. I can get Cryo Citra but not Cryo NZ Hops here. All of this stuff tends to happen to most NZ commodities. Our economy is export driven, but man does it suck for locals to compete with the export market economy. Can often buy NZ products (Lamb, Beef, Milk, Hops) for cheaper overseas than you can in New Zealand. It's a common complaint here.
The growers are ramping production year on year here in New Zealand, but demand is crazy for it from craft breweries in the USA and limited supply hence the price 😢 hopefully you’ll see the price drop in the next couple of years 😃
Great video as always! Nectaron is a powerhouse when used properly like you did. There’s a brand new hop out called Superdelic from the same growers but unsure when that will be available in the USA.
Just brewed two beers using Nectaron. The first was a session hazy with Belma, and now I've got a NZ Pilsner conditioning in my kegerator now. I'll update with how the pilsner turned out!
Great video and really good level of detail. Like @gerardnatale, I'll be doing this and trying a similar brew with Verdant that I'm using for a clone of Lightbulb - another "WOW!" fruity IPA that I'm trying to re-produce. Keep up the good work and thank you.😁
Been using Ascorbic acid for a hot minutes been doing 3 to 5 grams though and using that brewtan b. Really been trying to push shelf stability with the ipas and it seems to have been working. Also Nectaron is a dope hop. Easily the most expensive hop out there so I won’t be doing any single hops with it haha 😂 already use 8 ounces for my hazy ipa with it.
Yup, I'm using an exchilerator which will work great for whirlpool hopping. That being said, if you have an independent whirlpool loop seperated from your chiller by a valve, you can whirlpool without chilling. That on its own can take the temp down pretty far without added chilling.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Cool, thanks. I just use the old immersion chiller I got back when I was doing extract brews when I want to bring the hopped wort down to whirlpool hop temp. I was wondering if there’s another way. I’ll just keep the old piece around for my whirlpool hopped beers. 🍻
Noticed you went back to only dry hopping for 2-3 days after the the tree house recipe video where a longer contact of 5 days is recommended. Was this intentional? Did the TH recipe get astringent / vegetal with age? Cheers!
It didn't have any of those issues over time, but the biggest difference was a near complete lack of hop burn off a fresher beer using this new method. I'm gonna continue this way I think.
You said you use sorbic acid!? Sorbic acid and ascorbic acid (vitaminC) are different things. Sorbic acid is preservative that stops fermentation (bio procesess), while ascorbic acid stops oxidation. I wonder how your fermentation went with sorbic acid added? BTW - you can't add ascorbic acid to mash/boil, as it is "afraid" of high temperatures. Only @dryhopp....
Ascorbic. And it doesn't break down until far above mash temperatures. The point of using it in the mash isn't to scrub oxygen but to reduce reactive oxygen species and reduce future oxidation risk later. It's equally effective to use it in the packaging or dry hopping process
I'm very intrigued about this one. Personally, I'm very sensitive to bitterness, and for the most part detest IPAs with their excessive bitterness. Even "juicy" or "hazy" NE style IPAs are often too bitter for me, and it's very rare for me to find an IPA that is drinkable. When I saw the IBUs for this one on paper, I thought immediately that there is no way I could drink this one, however with your description, it sounds like it might be doable. Thanks for another awesome video, and your new mic sounds great to me.
IBUs are never going to directly correlate to bitterness. This one is definitely not bitter, but if you are very sensitive you might still get some bitterness. If you're concerned about it, just dial it back and it should be fine. Cheers!
fantastic color, thanks for the Ascorbic Acid tip, I have been writing recipes for using this Nectaron Hop, which is very expensive here n Europe, but since I love fruity beers I guess, I'll give it a try
I love doing a SMASH recipe. I did one with Citra and it was such a great IPA! Thanks for the tip on vitamin C (ascorbic acid) as an oxygen scrubber - that's one I hadn't thought of. I have some chemistry background, and I would note: you added a lot of oxygen for fermentation, and when exposed to air, ascorbic acid, a weak reducing agent, degrades, converting oxygen to water. The redox process is accelerated by the presence of metal ions and light. So, you are defeating your oxygenation with ascorbic acid, to some degree, and using it up. How about adding ascorbic acid to the secondary? From the wine industry, It is recommended to add ascorbic acid during bottling, otherwise it oxidises in the presence of air and the oxidation product causes far more significant oxidative alterations in the wine than those resulting from oxygen in the air in the absence of ascorbic acid. I like your new mic BTW.
I'm still relatively new to homebrewing, but I need to know: are you sparging? I don't think I ever see you doing it in your videos and I'm wondering how you are still getting good efficiency without sparging if that's the case.
How do you efficiently remove your dry-hop editions from your conical fermenter? I always have the problem that te hop does not drop down to the bottom in order to remove it and there a lot of hops is left in the beer. Does this have to with the cold crash temperature?
just got some dried and fresh nectaron to make a single hop(almost) pale ale this weekend, 7g green bullet in at first wort, 1kg fresh nectaron in 20min whirlpool and a 200g nectaron dry hop in a 25L batch.
Am I wrong in thinking I could use Mosaic instead for this? Naturally it wouldn't taste the same, but I have a pound of Mosaic I bought when it was on sale at YVH, and I'd rather not spend $40 on a pound of Nectaron...
@@TheApartmentBrewer I was about to say I brewed this a few days back, but realized that almost every major ingredient I used was different, so maybe "inspired by this" would be more accurate--Maris Otter rather than Golden Promise (I had 35 lb of MO on hand), Mosaic rather than Nectaron, and WLP095 rather than Imperial Barbarian. Though it does seem at least that the latter is the same strain of yeast. Hit an OG of 1.087 on Monday, my Tilt Pro is reporting 1.016 right now and it doesn't seem to be done yet. Looking forward to tasting this one.
A dutch craft brewery called Jopen has a monthly edition of craft beer going. Every month they come out with a different specialty beer. My favorite one was one made with specifically pacific hops.. I couldn't quite put a handle on what made it my favorite though. My best guess was that it held the perfect balance between flavor coming from the malt, bitterness from boiled hops and sweetness from unboiled hops.. This definitely sounds like a good attempt to recreate that.
Steve: I was heavily influenced by this video to try out a NEIPA using nectaron hops, I have yet to ever to do that or even tried using nectaron hops at all. Thanks for the influence! Here is my recipe for my version: "Queen of the Harpies" Batch: 3.3 gallons Boil: 75 minutes OG: 1.065 FG: 1.013 SRM: 5 IBU: 40 4lbs - Pale Ale Malt (45.1%) 3lbs 10 oz - Pilsner malt (40.9%) 8oz - Flaked Barley (5.6%) 6oz - Acidualated (4.2%) 6oz - Carapils (4.2%) 0.19 oz- Galaxy (15.2% AA) 60 min boil 0.15 oz - Citra (14.5% AA) 20 min boil 0.15 oz - Citra (14.5% AA) 10 min boil 0.50 oz - Citra (14.5% AA) 20 min whirlpool @180F 0.50 oz - Nectaron (11% AA) 20 min whirlpool @180F 1.81 oz - Galaxy 3-day dry hop 1.50 oz - Nectaron 3-day dry hop 0.50 oz - Citra 3-day dry hop 1 pkg Mangrove Jack's M12 Water: Just distilled water, no minerals Came out really good, recommend you mixing up that Nectaron with other hops, I do not regret it at all! Cheers!!
I brewed this last night. Preboil I was 1.058 beersmith said 1.061. Preboil volume was on the money. But what went wrong. I almost forgot the dextrose so put it in the last 2 min of boil and stired it. But specific gravity after the boil off and dextrose added is 1.077. How is that even possible???? I'm so mad lol
Are you brewing on a different system or with a weaker boil than mine? All systems lose efficiency on higher gravity beers, and I'm sure you will still have a delicious beer in the end.
@@TheApartmentBrewer @TheApartmentBrewer I figured it out. Beersmith I had some numbers wrong. Batch size after final boil is 6.25g before transfer. So when I make that the end volume. It comes out 1.077. Which I hit on the nose. Right now after 3 full days it's already at 1.015.
Wow. Super impressed with your efficiency! Using BIAB, any tips on what I can do to improve OG ?? I use 30 lb grist with 2 lbs dextrose and struggle to get 65% efficiency
That looks like a jummy beer, but I'm going to make that cold ipa of yours first. I've just got a big IPA with strata in my fermzilla, carbonating before bottling. Do you think I can still add some AAcid at 4C?
Hi. Have you noticed in the past 1 year the hops lost its quality? I'm from Croatia and all of my fellow brewers noticed the difference. There is no more aroma in hops when dry hopping even with massive amounts. Big problem. Please let me know if you have the same experience or did you noticed the difference. Tnx cheers
If you're using hops that are not properly stored or have been exposed to air they will certainly lose quality. I don't think there is a global difference, but some crop years of hops are more pungent than others.
I have since brewed this recipe three times with the WLP London Fog Ale 066 and must say that this beer is truly fantastic! I did increase the amount of hops during the dry hop eventually and it really is totally awesome now. Very happy with this one thanks for sharing!
Looks awesome, I will definitely give it a try. Where did you get your oxygen regulator (12:54)? Also, how many batches are you able to oxygenate with one cylinder?
Thanks again for sharing your experience, I've already learned a lot from your videos (already subbed)! I recently brewed two Hazy IPAs mostly with Nelson and Nectaron, and a little bit of Citra Cryo on the hot side. One with Verdant IPA and another with WLP4044 (Hazy Daze II), and the former was way better IMO, so I'll continue to use Verdant's yeast for the next brews. Cheers!
Nectaron is nice as a single hop IPA , the other new hop been Superdelic works very well in a West Coast IPA with classic hops. Some new types of specialty malts I like using Supernova as a good replacement for crystal malts with less sweetness and ads a good colour depth to many beer styles.
So I just ordered this recipe. I have a unitank 2.0. I plan on using spunding valve to let the tank pressurize on its own to 10psi and sit there. Even dry hop with my 3" dry hopper. But the question is. If you were gonna do it again, keep the oats 2lbs or 1.5? Lol u mention it but I'm wondering what I should do
So 1.5lbs of oats or maybe 1.75? Also u run your chiller to drop the temp immediately after flame out and then stop chilling at 180 and then do whirlpool hops. Or do u just let it drop to 180 on its own?
love your videos! Random (and possibly dumb) question on your fermentation setup - It looks like you have your brewbuilt glycol chiller and heater plugged into the same inkbird controller. Do you find the brewbuilt glycol chiller to still work well when its being controlled by the inkbird and not its own temp probe? I only ask because historically i just swap my prob back and forth between my heat wrap (inkbird) and the chiller, but its a real pain if my target temp is near ambient.
No dumb questions! I have the glycol chiller independent of the inkbird because it uses a different probe. That probe and the inkbird probe (which is only hooked up to heat) both fit well into the thermowell. I just keep it set to the same temp as the inkbird is trying to maintain and its working great. I dont think the glycol chiller would keep the reservoir cold if I powered it via inkbird.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Wow, that is one heck of a facepalm moment.... I didn't even think to try putting both temp probes into the thermowell together. You sir just made my brewing life so much easier!
That sounds like a great beer even if I'm not a fan of higher abv. I typically try to stay in the 5-6% range. Also, great tip on the ascorbic acid addiction. Ive been looking for more ways to improve shelf life and fight oxidation. Ascorbic acid is what ive been leaning towards trying.
I just did a very clear non-hazy maris otter based beer with some nectaron. also had like 4% c40 and some similar amount of carapils plus a dash of Munich- it gave me a juiced up west coast. London fog yeast is a beast - gave me big juicy character but it also cleared up well just with some Irish moss. No haze but silky body. Happy with the nectaron I got
Think I’m going to give this a try, sounds delicious. Curious what your thoughts are on acidifying the beer to try and compensate for the pH rise that’s going to happen with the dry hops. I added 5ml of lactic acid to my 7.5oz dry hop and STILL noticed a pH increase, albeit less than it would be. Haven’t tried it yet, so 🤞
Post-boil pre-acidification helps a lot when fighting that dry hop pH increase. I don't know if adding acid after the dry hop helps, but when its done before the hops are way brighter and less muddy.
I developed it myself. Although it is most definitely NOT a hoppy water profile. This would normally be considered a malty one, but because of other elements in the recipe this helps the juicy characteristics come out.
I made a hazy using only Nectaron several months back. It was fantastic. It was a single IPA loaded with juicy flavor. I will be looking to get I went to your Amazon store page looking for the Apera pH meter that you have been using recently as I am in the market for a new one. I only saw the Beverage Doctor one. I was hoping to order it through your page to help support the channel. Any chance you can add it to the list? As always, thank you for the inspiration and knowledge you provide us!!!!🍻
Sure, but I always pitch the whole thing. Why leave any yeast behind? If you're concerned about dilution maybe you can decant if you want but cell count is my chief concern. The starter "beer" never impacts the final beer flavor.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Yeah dilution is my main concern. Interesting that you don't find it negatively impact the final flavour, Martin Keen if you're watching maybe you could do a brulosophy show episode on it??
Generally no. Raising back up to higher temperatures after the dry hop is inviting hop creep to happen. Try to keep it cold, and then package cold and put it right in the kegerator
Sorry, the soft crash is depending on gravity Moreso than time. I'm not sure where I said it was 36 to 48 hours, it should be 36 to 48 hours in duration but shouldn't start until you're almost fully attenuated
@@TheApartmentBrewer my apologies, sorry that's not what I meant. I meant, can you drink this beer in winter, like a stout, or is it meant for summer days?
This looks so juicy and delicious, I think is the perfect one to introduce my kids to drinking beer hahaha awesome video and yes we like the new mic. Cheers, Steve 🍻🍺
Definitely multiple ways to brew a hazy. I've tried that method as well but I think I prefer a fair level of on-paper bitterness to help balance the beer. Otherwise it would be way too sweet for my palate.
