I'm sorry I noticed some rather concerning safety issues in the installation which would be followed by any manufacturer during assembly. 1. If the earth has been removed then as part of a modification and assembly when the earth is reattached to the cabinet then the earth impedance needs to be tested to ensure it is within specification. 0.04 ohm for instnce from plug to chassis. 2. Ensure the impedance from supply to chassis is greater than 10Mohms as an example. 3. Additionally if there are any grip nuts in place ensure these are in place. The fact the manufacturer has commented that it's a good job (which it appears to be) concerns me as they should understand the specifics of EN61010 and other electrical safety documentation. Add a disclaimer onto the video to this effect.
Hello David, thank you very much for another priceless video! It would be great to test this solution on G30. Personally, the side glass is the only thing missing from G30 after changing the internal basket and bottom filter.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew The G40 is great but apart from the side glass and the improvements made to the G30 there is no significant difference between them (apart from the size of course)
I find it to be a far better upgrade than that. Other highlights are that Its a more heavy duty system with improved heating which is ultra low watt density, improved controller and grain basket plus it has a very good false bottom. In my opinion It is a very good upgrade from a G30 but is in a higher price range too of course.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew The sight glass OD is 15mm (from your video description), whereas I just measured the tube on my G30 and it's 12.5mm. It would need some serious modifications on the tabs that hold it in place for it to work I think. Bummer.
For the 35 liter kettle, I do not see the advantage of the more powerful pump. I hardly ever have the valve fully open during mash, and when cooling through a CFC, it is almost fully closed to arrive at the right temperature. I assume if your tapwater is much colder, the extra power might come in handy, but not here in the Netherlands.
I was confused by this too until I realised the term whirlpool is often used to describe a hopstand. The whirlpool spins the wort with the intention of bringing the trub etc into the centre to help with transfer from a tap, therefore the brewzilla false bottom negates the need to whirlpool. However, a hopstand is spinning the wort ( in the past folks have called it whirlpooling) to achieve greater contact time with the hops.
@@chrisnewman861 For me whirlpool means once you have finished boiling you swirl the wort during cooling to bring sediment at the bottom center. Hop stands means you stop cooling at some defined temperature for a defined time and then you continue cooling.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm so excited to do my first brew. I used it for an extract kit just to get familiar. Now all I have available is pilsner malt and hallertau hops, planning a smash beer. I hope it works out. No respurces local.. I'll be travelling this winter for grain. Thanks for all you do on this channel to help!
