The color took me about a week to get a hundred percent right not too many brick pointers will do spot pointing and try to match the motor a hundred percent think I got it pretty close
Now I use a baker's sack. He made this look easy. Usually you wait for it to dry up a bit to brush!! Id like to know how to tuck point that fast otherwise I'd do it like that!
you need to take a brick trowel and at a 45° angle swipe up holding the trowel at approximately a 22° angle to the wall and cut those mortar snots at the edge of the bricks after striking and before brushing.. I'm a mason since mid 1980s. taught by one of the last few real masons alive at the time.
@@jamesgillice2123 The old man/mason who trained me was in WWII and started in bricklaying in 1946. .. who trained you? or did you train yourself at Woodstock??😅
ok, where do we start. the original builders used a lime mortar. for repointing, slick (slush) the joint in with a slicker. let set, then tool. want that aggregate to pop like the weathered joint? hit it with a churn brush. there is tons of info on building orgs in the US. even a guy in mom's basement can find out how and what the do, to do it right.
I’m suggesting 1:1: 3 ratio ..1 part ordinary Portland cement, 1 part lime, 3 parts fine building sand. Not washed sand or grit sand as this is river sand and angular, it needs to be quarried sand
this coming from somebody who has not won video of themselves doing anything. I'm not the one hiding behind an alias. you can talk all the crap you want from Mom's basement it's cool. I'm the one out here killing it.
Good job, every repointing job I do, people always tell me the joys of using a mortar gun, I'm like fuck the guns I'm good with the traditional method of hawk and jointer, I have 3 guns and I think it's a waste of money. Have you tried any mortar guns?
